Pelican 1943 by FriedClams - 1:48 - Eastern-Rig Dragger

[FriedClams]

On 2/12/2025 at 8:48 AM, KeithAug said:

You need a teleporter. I have one and it works brilliantly on this type of problem.🙂

Hey Keith, now that's an idea!  Wonder if I can find a used one somewhere?

 

On 2/14/2025 at 11:59 AM, druxey said:

I might be persuaded to try FreeCAD.... Years ago I was exposed to a very early version of AutoCAD, which put me off completely!

Yes Druxey, AutoCAD has been known to have that effect on people.

 

I use DesignCAD for my 2D drawing and have for decades, but for 3D modeling I prefer FreeCAD over it and a number of other alternatives.  I think it's a very good solid modeler and a decent surface modeler.  There are many good "free to use" programs, but with FreeCAD you download it once and its yours forever; no logging on to a website, registering or having to use it in the cloud.  And no concerns that after investing the time to learn a program, the company granting you free access might change the rules and make you a subscriber or a previous user. FreeCAD certainly has its quirks and weaknesses, but so do the alternatives.  And I'm not a power user - I just want to make a few parts for my models.

 

 

Extensive online tutorials and help is available.  I found YouTuber MangoJelly Solutions to be a great help.

 

Be safe everyone and stay well.  Hope to have a Pelican update this week.

 

Gary

Edited February 16 by FriedClams

[Valeriy V]

Gary, some of the things you do are beyond my comprehension! Especially when it comes to technologies that bring details closer to reality.
Excellent continuation of excellent work!

[FriedClams]

Greetings Fellow Modelers,

 

Thank you Valeriy for your kind words, and thanks to all for the "likes."

 

 

Here’s an update on the Pelican’s whaleback.  First, the toerails along the P/S edges of the deck are cut to shape then heat bent.

 

 

 

 

Next, the ventilator and its mounting/rotation flange got some color.  I used a product on the cowl from AK Interactive that I’ve not tried before called True Metal.  This paint was recommended to me by @TOM G and it works great although I haven’t yet mastered how to apply and polish it for best results.  It’s a wax based colorant similar to Rub’n Buff, but whereas that product is more of an architectural hardware restorer, True Metal paint is produced for the model hobby and comes in a dozen or so colors that modelers can use.  An interesting product that so far, I like – thanks Tom.

 

The cowl below is a mixture of TM “steel” and “iron” applied with a colour shaper.  Almost looks galvanized.

 

 

 

A beveled coaming/plinth is added.

 

 

The “wave break” is a diverter whose purpose is to keep water coming over the bow from flowing aft onto the main deck. It’s made from .03” (.76mm) sheet styrene which scales to about 1.4” (36mm) thickness.

 

 

It’s dirtied up a bit and holes were drilled at each bolt-down location. The unit was temporarily located on the whaleback and selected bolt-down holes were drilled through into the deck.

 

 

Leaving some of the bolt shanks provided a foolproof way to affix it without concern of getting glue smear on the deck surface.  Bolts are Grandt Line 5113.

 

 

 

The stemhead fitting is brass with a scale thickness of about .5” (13mm) and the eyes are flattened wire.  One of the wires will be clipped flush on the backside and the other will penetrate the wood stem.

 

 

A port side deck ladder is made of .035” (.9mm) brass rod and finished with Jax Flemish Gray.

 

 

The ladder receives two styrene mounting brackets and weathering pigment.

 

 

Two 40” (102cm) tie off cleats will be primed then painted with True Metal on top.  I drilled into the bottoms and glued in stubs of brass wire for deck attachment.

 

 

Then all of the above was glued to the model.

 

 

 

 

 

Trim pieces were added here and there.  All of it is basswood except for the half-round styrene on the right.

 

 

A wider strip of half-round styrene was added as a rub rail just below the deck surface.  This strip also secures the rubber membrane flap that folds over the deck edge.

 

Thanks for stopping by for a look.

 

Be safe and stay well.

 

Gary

[Keith Black]

Fantastic tight work, Gary. Every piece fits exact, every paint line is razor straight, and every glue joint is clean, neat and tidy.  You never cease to amaze. 

Edited March 1 by Keith Black

[Paul Le Wol]

Wonderful update Gary. I realize that you did it a while ago but I’m still amazed at the effects that you applied to the doghouse and partition wall siding.

[ccoyle]

2 hours ago, FriedClams said:

Thanks for stopping by for a look.

 

I quit now.

 

But seriously, that is amazing work!

[druxey]

Very inspirational! And thanks for your comments on FreeCAD, Gary. I might just try it!

[bowwild]

Your creativity and "problem" solving is beyond genius!  Your photography is also terrific as we can clearly see what you've accomplished...every detail!

[Glen McGuire]

Stunning work, Gary.  As usual!

[KeithAug]

Excellent Gary

[FlyingFish]

Cracking progress, and such sharp details. Your great photography really makes it all pop. 

[Hubac's Historian]

I echo all complimentary sentiments above, Gary.  Great stuff!

[Rick310]

Amazing detail!!

Rick