gsdpic Posted June 18 Author Share #31 Posted June 18 I've started on the nerve wracking decals. Those thin stripes on these lotus cars are tricky but so far it is going well. And yes, I decided to do the #6 Gunnar Nilsson car instead of the #5 Mario Andretti, just to be different. I think the front wing piece has all its decals on. The large piece in the middle is the one I need to complete in order to complete the tub and proceed with the next steps in the build (though I could detour to work on the engine if I need a break from decals). I think there are 10 more decals, 5 on each side, on that large middle piece. On the right are some little squeeze scissors. I got those as part of the micro-mark bundle for making your own inkjet printed decals. I thought it was sort of a gimmick, but now I have learned better. Those little scissors are great for cutting out decals. These older Tamiya decals seem to have a lot of clear decal material around the printed parts so at least on some of them I have been carefully cutting very close to the printed decal and that is much easier with these small squeeze scissors. Haliburton, yvesvidal, CDW and 11 others 14 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted June 19 Author Share #32 Posted June 19 One thing about doing decals, it is easy to see the progress from one picture to the next. I felt like when I was working on the tub all the pictures started to look the same. I now have the decals on the left side of the car pretty much complete. In the picture below, the middle part of the side pod is just taped on. The stripe decals there were all one piece spanning two parts of the model. So I just taped it together for now. Once the decal is completely dry, I will carefully cut it and then untape the piece. I believe that piece is meant to remain unglued and removable to display the details within the side pod. I've also noticed that these old Tamiya decals do not like the decal setting solution, even the less strong micro-set. I have a few decals that have some permanent wrinkles. For now, I am just using water to wet the model surface before placing the decal and while maneuvering it into position. Now I just need to do these same 13 decals on the right side of the car, then the decals on the rear wing and a few other miscellaneous ones. Egilman, Haliburton, FriedClams and 10 others 13 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted June 21 Author Share #33 Posted June 21 Thanks to everyone for the likes. I've now completed all the body panel decals. Next I will probably alternate between working on the engine and applying several layers of clear coat (Tamiya X-22 plus Mr color leveling thinner) to the body panels. Jack12477, FriedClams, DocRob and 10 others 13 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted June 23 Author Share #34 Posted June 23 I've done several coats of X-22 gloss clear on all the body panels, they are looking good. I've also started working on the engine and gearbox, as shown below. I did hit one snag: on each side of the engine near the bottom are a series of 3 or 4 parts, oil or water pumps I believe. Somehow I lost one of the pieces that make up the mechanism on the right side of the engine. I was able to scratch build a piece to go in its place. Not an exact duplicate by any means but no one will notice. DocRob, Old Collingwood, CDW and 11 others 14 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted June 24 Share #35 Posted June 24 Gary, nice work with all the decals. You might want to use distilled water for decalling. Tap water may have "extra" ingredients that can affect the process. A gallon jug is a dollar or so at your local pharmacy. Nirvana, gsdpic, mtaylor and 4 others 6 1 Quote Ken Started: MS Bounty Longboat, On Hold: Heinkel USS Choctaw paper Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1 Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted June 24 Author Share #36 Posted June 24 1 minute ago, Canute said: Gary, nice work with all the decals. You might want to use distilled water for decalling. Tap water may have "extra" ingredients that can affect the process. A gallon jug is a dollar or so at your local pharmacy. Thanks! I swear as I was doing this, I wondered to myself if distilled water would leave fewer water spots. Next time I'll try it. I also think I should wear gloves more frequently when handling the body parts to leave fewer finger prints. Canute, Nirvana, FriedClams and 4 others 7 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted June 27 Author Share #37 Posted June 27 Thanks as always for the likes or for just looking in. I've reached, or almost reached, two different milestones. I have completed the main tub, except for instrument panel. I am thinking about adding some connections/wiring harness to the back of the panel and that is why I have not mounted it yet. On the second picture of the tub, in the cockpit you can see a small lever, I believe to adjust the suspension. That lever was not connected to anything so I added some thin brass rods running fore and aft. The yellow wire to the distributor was another addition based on a photo I saw. The kit suggested using the same black wire as for the spark plugs. Next up is to continue working on the gear box and all the rear suspension bits that are attached to it, as well as the exhaust. mtaylor, Old Collingwood, Jack12477 and 10 others 10 3 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FriedClams Posted June 27 Share #38 Posted June 27 More beautiful and clean work, Gary! Nice! Gary mtaylor, CDW, Egilman and 5 others 7 1 Quote Current Build Pelican Eastern-Rig Dragger Completed Scratch Builds Rangeley Guide Boat New England Stonington Dragger 1940 Auto Repair Shop Mack FK Shadowbox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted June 29 Author Share #39 Posted June 29 Thanks, Gary, for the compliment and to everyone else for the likes. I continue to work on the drive train. I've attached the engine and gearbox, and done some of the bits that support the rear suspension, but there is more work to be done there. I am not crazy about the two springs that serve as the hoses between the air scopes and brake cooling duct. I might need to rethink that. I could at least shorten the spring and I think that would help but I am considering other options as well. CDW, shipman, Nirvana and 11 others 11 3 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted June 30 Share #40 Posted June 30 9 hours ago, gsdpic said: I am not crazy about the two springs that serve as the hoses between the air scopes and brake cooling duct. I might need to rethink that. I could at least shorten the spring and I think that would help but I am considering other options as well. Yeah it fits the bill as what it is supposed to represent mechanically, but not visually.... I've done this for the flexible tubing used to connect up intake and exhaust tubing on truck models.... Made my own coils to represent the tube, attached them to the fittings on each end then painted them with micro kristal clear once they are installed in position... When it dries, it shrinks into the gaps between the coils and is completely clear and paintable making it look like a solid tube... Add the clamps on either end and voila! A perfect representation of scale air ducting.... The other option is to fill the insides with something like rice paper dyed black so you can't see through the coils from a distance, but it doesn't come out as good as painting them with Kristal Clear... Canute, Jack12477, king derelict and 7 others 9 1 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted June 30 Share #41 Posted June 30 Very nice progress Gary, the engine looks extremely good. Is this net over the air intakes a solid part? I have to build the same engine for my Brabham BT44 and have added a set of metal trumpets and real mesh from MFH. One thing about decals, if they are taking the usual solutions not so well, applied heat with a hairdryer may help, but best to be tested on a spare decal. Cheers Rob Jack12477, FriedClams, mtaylor and 6 others 8 1 Quote Current builds: Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused Duchess of Kingston - paused Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32 USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48 Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12 P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48 AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32 "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted June 30 Author Share #42 Posted June 30 8 hours ago, Egilman said: Yeah it fits the bill as what it is supposed to represent mechanically, but not visually.... I've done this for the flexible tubing used to connect up intake and exhaust tubing on truck models.... Made my own coils to represent the tube, attached them to the fittings on each end then painted them with micro kristal clear once they are installed in position... When it dries, it shrinks into the gaps between the coils and is completely clear and paintable making it look like a solid tube... Add the clamps on either end and voila! A perfect representation of scale air ducting.... The other option is to fill the insides with something like rice paper dyed black so you can't see through the coils from a distance, but it doesn't come out as good as painting them with Kristal Clear... Thanks. I had thought about trying some PVA but had not thought of the micro kristal clear, which is very similar but a bit thicker. I have some of that stuff, used mostly for instrument panel gauges, so maybe I'll give it a try. I did shorten both springs by about an eighth of an inch and that also helped. Hmm, I also have some photo etch hose clamps that I could add to see if that looks good. 5 hours ago, DocRob said: Very nice progress Gary, the engine looks extremely good. Is this net over the air intakes a solid part? I have to build the same engine for my Brabham BT44 and have added a set of metal trumpets and real mesh from MFH. One thing about decals, if they are taking the usual solutions not so well, applied heat with a hairdryer may help, but best to be tested on a spare decal. Cheers Rob Thanks, and yes on this model it is a solid part which I painted flat black then highlighted the screen texture by dry brushing some silver. I thought about trying to make a replacement out of some real metal screen material and also saw that MFH had some parts as well. But on this car, that screen ends up covered by the air scoop that is above/behind the cockpit so I did not bother. Jack12477, Canute, Old Collingwood and 6 others 9 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 2 Author Share #43 Posted July 2 Thanks all for the likes and comments and especially @Egilman for the suggestion. I painted those springs with micro kristal clear and then with Tamiya XF-63 German Gray. The latter was supposed to be flat but over the kristal clear it still has some sheen. I tried a bit of micro flat on top but that did not change it much. Regardless, it looks much better than it did before in my opinion. Of course rereading his comment reminds me that I forgot to dig up the photo etch hose clamps I have to see if they could be added to good effect. I also added the exhausts and wrapped up the rest of the rear suspension, so with that the drive train is mostly done. There are a few more connections (both hard pipes and flexible braided lines) to be done when the engine is connected to the tub and there is an oil cooler with a few more braided lines that attaches to the supports for the rear wing. I may add a few more lines as well, such as some lines to the brake calipers. I've found some decent pictures of the back of this car so will look again at those for ideas. As usual, the exhaust was a bit tricky, though I tried a new trick that helped. I don't recall where I read/saw this trick. But I put just a small dot of white glue (actually the micro kristal clear again) on the 4-to-1 collector and in the engine block exhaust ports and let it get a bit tacky. I then put the exhaust headers in place and the kristal clear held them but still allowed a lot of maneuvering, which is needed for those exhausts. Oh, I guess I also used a dot or two of gel CA on the engine block port for a couple of the headers. Once all was in place, I added a droplet of the Tamiya extra thin cement to each of the gaps where the parts met, on both ends of the exhaust headers. But with this milestone I figured I would get out the "real" camera and the little photo booth and take some better pictures, instead of just the at-the-bench iPad pictures I've been uploading to this log thus far. Old Collingwood, mtaylor, DocRob and 13 others 12 4 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted July 2 Share #44 Posted July 2 The engine looks fantastic, Gary. Exhaust seem always to be a bit vague with their attachment points with these old Tamiya F1 kits. I had similar issues, with my Renault Turbo kit and brass pinned some of the parts. It had only six cylinders luckily, but the turbo tubing lacks the good fitting as well. Cheers Rob mtaylor, FriedClams, gsdpic and 5 others 8 Quote Current builds: Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused Duchess of Kingston - paused Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32 USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48 Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12 P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48 AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32 "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 4 Author Share #45 Posted July 4 Thanks as always for the likes and comments or for just looking in. @DocRob I have the Ferrari 312B in my stash with its 12 cylinder engine. I imagine that exhaust will be more challenging....though maybe not since there are two collectors on each side, each with just 3 headers in them, so I'll be doing 4 sets of 3 pipes each instead of 2 sets of 4 pipes each on the DFV. I've now attached the engine to the tub. Once done, there were 4 coolant pipes to attach between the back of the tub and the engine and 2 suspension members from the back of the tub to the uprights. The latter were just a little bit tricky to get in place. You can see all of those pieces in the second picture below. I've also included below a picture of the under side of the car and engine. I meant to include a picture of the underside of the engine in the last post but failed to do so. DocRob, yvesvidal, Landlubber Mike and 14 others 6 11 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDW Posted July 4 Share #46 Posted July 4 That looks splendid. Spectacular details. FriedClams, Canute, Jack12477 and 6 others 8 1 Quote Completed Projects: USS Fletcher 1:144 Scharnhorst 1:350 USS Independence LCS-2 1:350 1:32 J7W1 Shinden Interceptor/Fighter Fairey Swordfish Mk. II 1:48 Harbor Tug Box Scale Albatros D.V 1:32 Ala-Kart 1:25 Ferrari 250 GT California Spyder 1:24 S-100 Schnellboot 1:72 Mercury Capsule and Atlas Booster BR-52 Steam Locomotive 1:35 Triumph 3 HW Motorcycle 1:9 Scale F-16XL-2 Experimental Fighter Bomber 1:48 Rafale 1:48 F-15E Strike Eagle 1:48 Petlyakov PE-2 Soviet Dive Bomber 1:48 TBM3 Avenger 1:32 1931 Cadillac 1:25 Scammell Pioneer SV2S Heavy Breakdown Tractor 1:35 M-50 Israeli Sherman 1:35 Military Wrecker 1:32 Delahaye 135 1:24 Toyota Sard Supra GT 1:24 Enzo Ferrari 1:24 1970 Baldwin Motion Camaro 1:25 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 Stock Car 1:25 American LaFrance Eagle Fire Pumper 1:25 1940 Ford Standard Coupe 1:25 VolksWagen Dragster/Dune Buggy/Street Rod 1:25 Kawasaki Ninja H2 Carbon 1:12 Porsche GT-1 Evo 1:24 Scharnhorst 1940 1:700 IJN Akitsushima Seaplane Tender 1:700 HMS Hood 1941 1:700 Prinz Eugen 1942 1:700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 5 Author Share #47 Posted July 5 Thanks for the likes and comment. I thought I'd make another quick update, as I have made another addition/modification that I am quite happy with. The car has a radiator in the nose that serves as an oil cooler. Of course there needs to be a way for the oil to get between that radiator and the engine. The kit supplies black vinyl hose for this, though the instructions do not show many details about how it is routed, just the end points. I looked on the internet for relevant pictures, and I found what appeared to be a solid pipe, rather than a hose, for much of the run between the front and back of the car. However, I did not find too many pictures, especially of the under-the-car parts of this run, so still had to make some assumptions. I started by cutting two lengths of 3/32nd brass tube. I bent the tubes in two places to conform to the bottom of the car, put resin hose connectors in each end, painted the tube, black in the front and polished silver in the back, then used some CA to glue the tubes on to the car. I created some little brackets (out of wine cap foil) to hold those tubes, then used some braided line to connect the ends of the tubes to the proper locations on the radiator and on the engine. Excuse the background on the third picture below: this model is too large for my little DIY photo booth. Jack12477, king derelict, yvesvidal and 11 others 8 6 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted July 9 Share #48 Posted July 9 Great work Gary. That engine looks like it could be an award-winning stand-alone model itself. Jack12477, gsdpic, DocRob and 6 others 8 1 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: Hs129B-2 1/48 SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 13 Author Share #49 Posted July 13 Thanks Mike for the compliment and all others for the likes and wows. I've been on a brief vacation but am back now so should resume work on the lotus this week. FriedClams, mtaylor, Old Collingwood and 3 others 6 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted July 14 Share #50 Posted July 14 Very nice solution with the tubing, Gary. Are the large metal nuts and screws for the front still visible in the end? If so, I would matte them down a bit or paint them with the same silver tone like the other fittings. Cheers Rob Egilman, FriedClams, Canute and 5 others 7 1 Quote Current builds: Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused Duchess of Kingston - paused Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32 USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48 Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12 P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48 AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32 "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 14 Author Share #51 Posted July 14 3 hours ago, DocRob said: Very nice solution with the tubing, Gary. Are the large metal nuts and screws for the front still visible in the end? If so, I would matte them down a bit or paint them with the same silver tone like the other fittings. Cheers Rob Thanks, that is a good idea. They generally are not visible due to some faring around the suspension arms. But the front nose cone is intended to be removable, in which case at least the nuts in the front would be visible. mtaylor, Canute, FriedClams and 4 others 7 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 16 Author Share #52 Posted July 16 As mentioned, I have resumed work on this. The main thing I did was to put on the front pieces of the side pods and the faring behind the front suspension. You can see both in the pictures below. In the second picture, I put on the front wing to show how it hides the nuts discussed above. I still plan to paint those nuts though. I also realized while taking the pictures that I have yet to put the instrument panel on, as I want to do some additional detailing, as in some sort of wiring harness, for the instrument panel. And yes, after I complete the build I will wipe down the body to get rid of that big thumb print After this, I need to work on the front hub assemblies, with the brakes and brake ducts. After that, not much more to do. I still need to decide if I am going to dechrome the wheels and paint them with alclad. I probably will, as I did for the two previous Lotus F1 cars I built. But it is a little bit of a pain, especially the rear wheels. It is like trying to paint the inside of a pill bottle. mtaylor, CDW, Old Collingwood and 9 others 12 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 17 Author Share #53 Posted July 17 And now....my second bout of COVID. That's what I get for climbing into a metal tube with ~200 of my "friends". At least it happened on the way back, not the way there. I'll probably take a few more days off. My symptoms are not too bad so far but I don't feel much like thinking and can just see having a coughing fit while manipulating some small, delicate parts. Jack12477, FriedClams, Ryland Craze and 5 others 8 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDW Posted July 17 Share #54 Posted July 17 Here's wishing you a speedy and complete recovery, Gary. Canute, Jack12477, Ryland Craze and 6 others 8 1 Quote Completed Projects: USS Fletcher 1:144 Scharnhorst 1:350 USS Independence LCS-2 1:350 1:32 J7W1 Shinden Interceptor/Fighter Fairey Swordfish Mk. II 1:48 Harbor Tug Box Scale Albatros D.V 1:32 Ala-Kart 1:25 Ferrari 250 GT California Spyder 1:24 S-100 Schnellboot 1:72 Mercury Capsule and Atlas Booster BR-52 Steam Locomotive 1:35 Triumph 3 HW Motorcycle 1:9 Scale F-16XL-2 Experimental Fighter Bomber 1:48 Rafale 1:48 F-15E Strike Eagle 1:48 Petlyakov PE-2 Soviet Dive Bomber 1:48 TBM3 Avenger 1:32 1931 Cadillac 1:25 Scammell Pioneer SV2S Heavy Breakdown Tractor 1:35 M-50 Israeli Sherman 1:35 Military Wrecker 1:32 Delahaye 135 1:24 Toyota Sard Supra GT 1:24 Enzo Ferrari 1:24 1970 Baldwin Motion Camaro 1:25 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 Stock Car 1:25 American LaFrance Eagle Fire Pumper 1:25 1940 Ford Standard Coupe 1:25 VolksWagen Dragster/Dune Buggy/Street Rod 1:25 Kawasaki Ninja H2 Carbon 1:12 Porsche GT-1 Evo 1:24 Scharnhorst 1940 1:700 IJN Akitsushima Seaplane Tender 1:700 HMS Hood 1941 1:700 Prinz Eugen 1942 1:700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted July 17 Share #55 Posted July 17 Follow doctors' advice and kick back for a bit, Gary. Let your self get over the virus first as health is more important than any model. Ryland Craze, gsdpic, Old Collingwood and 4 others 6 1 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 19 Author Share #56 Posted July 19 Thanks all for the well wishes. Fortunately I again had a fairly minor case. The only remaining symptoms are some coughing and some fatigue, though the nasal swab test still came back positive today, which was not a surprise since this is just the fifth day since symptoms started. Between naps and coughing fits, I have managed a little bit of work, painting and assembling the front hub assemblies and the brake calipers, though I still need to attach the latter to the former. All shown below. Both front and rear wheels have 2 calipers per wheel. Old Collingwood, king derelict, Egilman and 8 others 11 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 21 Author Share #57 Posted July 21 Thanks for the likes. I've completed and mounted the front hubs, as shown below, and also added the supports for the rear wing. I then decided to work on painting the wheels. The wheels were made of three pieces, an inner disk and then a front and back rim section. The rim sections were provided in chrome which I stripped off. I then repainted the rim sections first with Tamiya LP-1 lacquer gloss black, then alclad polished aluminum. Once that cured, I also lightly buffed the aluminum with a piece of cloth. The inner wheel disks were painted with alclad gold. I am quite pleased with the results. There is still a small oil cooler to be added to the wing support, along with several more oil lines (using the braided line). I have some other details as well, still have not done the instrument panel, for example, and I have an MFH seat belt that I intended to use but have not done yet. And there is one other hurdle....this kit does not provide any sort of decal for the Good Year logo on the tires. I intend to attempt to hand paint the logos but I just discovered I do not have any flat white paint. I either need to order some or wait a few more days until I feel ok going out in public again and hit the local hobby shop to see if they have any XF-2 in stock. Landlubber Mike, usedtosail, Jack12477 and 12 others 9 6 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FriedClams Posted July 23 Share #58 Posted July 23 Sweet work, Gary - love the wheel rims. And everything else, too. Gary Old Collingwood, gsdpic, mtaylor and 4 others 6 1 Quote Current Build Pelican Eastern-Rig Dragger Completed Scratch Builds Rangeley Guide Boat New England Stonington Dragger 1940 Auto Repair Shop Mack FK Shadowbox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 24 Author Share #59 Posted July 24 As always, thanks for the likes/wows/comments, or just looking in. I've done a few more details....in the front I added the instrument panel with some wires/tubes to the instruments added. In the rear, I added the oil cooler along with the supply lines. I also got some Tamiya XF-2 flat white paint and began hand painting the "good year" logos on the tires. I've been adding a tiny drop of dark gray paint to the white, just to make it not quite as bright. I've painted the logo on both sides of one front tire, and on one side of two other tires. So, I am half done...four out of 8 of the logos are painted. I still need to add that MFH seatbelt but otherwise I am very close to being done. king derelict, Jack12477, mtaylor and 11 others 9 5 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsdpic Posted July 30 Author Share #60 Posted July 30 Ok, I am calling this one done! Thanks to everyone who has followed along or commented or hit the like/wow button. I appreciate it. It was a little bit of a struggle to wrap this one up. The outer panels of the side pods and the ground effects skirts hanging off of them put up a fight. It took several tries to get them securely glued in place and in fact, one of the ground effect skirts popped off yet again while I was taking the final pictures of the car. I also put in the MFH seat belts, which was more time consuming than I expected, though I guess I did not get any good pictures of them, nor did I get a close up of the cock pit. Anyway, here are the final pictures. Oh, note that it was also half way through the photo shoot that I managed to get those covers on the top of the side pods fully snapped into place so on some of the pictures, there are some gaps around those covers that are not present later. The first picture shows the various panels that are left removable. FriedClams, wvdhee, Ryland Craze and 10 others 4 9 Quote - Gary Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th Annapolis Wherry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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