The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy

[hornet]

Hi Captain Steve

 

I use a similar method with a bit of a 'twist' so to speak. I have taken two different diameter brass nails and cut off the heads. I filed one side of the top of each nail flat so that I could drill a 0.8mm hole through each. The nails were then whipped into dowel handles. Using two different diameter nails allowed for different sided rings and hooks. Rings are produced in the same manner as you demonstrated except that I start by placing the brass wire in the hole before wrapping it around the nail. This allows more 'grip' and produces a 'tighter' ring. Hooks are made similarly. I place one end of the brass wire in the hole, bend to shape then cut the wire, reverse it and bend again. I usually then place them in my fly tying vice and silver solder before blackening with Birchwood Casey Brass Black.

 

 

Cheers

Steve

[cobra1951]

MOSQUITO MESH AND CLEAR ACETATE: To make windows.

Hi

    This is a great idea but could you please tell me if the netting is glued to the acetate and if so what with

Thank you

[Ulises Victoria]

 

Yes it is! I use some stuff in a spray can that artists use to protect their pencil or pastel works from smearing. Since I got this in Mexico I don't think it will make any sense to tell you brand or where I bought it. Look for it in artists or hobby shops.

 

I extend the mesh over a piece of wax paper, spray it heavy with the stuff, place the acetate over it and then a heavy book or similar object to press evenly. (Pressing between 2 sheets of glass would be ideal)

 

A couple of sheets will serve you for a life time.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited January 20, 2016 by Ulises Victoria

[cobra1951]

Thank you for the information and also for your prompt reply :)

[CaptainSteve]

For those who may have missed it, re-printed below, with permission, is MSW member donrobinson’s brilliantly easy method for making oars for your ship’s boats …

 

The dowels I am using are 2mm and found at a local hobby store. I soaked one end in water for fifteen-twenty minutes then put in my mini vice. I put them in at a depth of 15mm and left them clamped for about the same amount of time.


My vice has notches in the jaws for holding stock so that is why I am using the angle iron so as not to distort the dowel.

 

This picture is showing the initial dowel(at the bottom) how it comes out of the vice and then the various shapes that I made. They may look a little crooked in pictures but they are straight just the photo playing tricks.


These last two pictures are just trying to show the edge of the blade.
I show clamping two dowels at once but in reality just do one at a time by the time you take one out(and replace it) get it shaped properly the next one is ready and so on and so on.........

Try it out it is quite easy and beats laminating or carving down larger stock to shape. Different size stock can be used but just adjust your soaking and clamping times.

 

Thanks, Don.

[cobra1951]

So simple yet so effective, brilliant

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

It's amazing how simple tbis is and what an incredible result. This will go in my memory vault.

havagooday

Greg

[NenadM]

Bamboo BBQ strips

Very strong, rounded, and, the most important, same diameter as rotary tools for Dremell, so ...

Edited March 4, 2016 by Nenad

[NenadM]

Bamboo BBQ strips  again

 

 

Same dia as Dremell caliper

 

Spokes for steering wheel

 

 

 

 

Fine tunning has to be applied, but you get an idea

 

 

[cobra1951]

That's brilliant Nenad 

[GLakie]

Nice job Nenad!! 

[Telp]

Seriously talented people for sure, there are loads of good ideas I will hopefully fall back on. The micro work you do is amazing, reminds me of the guy who builds statues ect on the tip of a matchead. Great thread this one.

[mattsayers148]

Awesome wheel Nenad!

[CaptainSteve]

MILITARY SCALE FIGURES

 

A number of modellers here on MSW show remarkable skills when it comes to sculpting small details to be added to their ships. The following list is by no means exhaustive, but just a few of the amazing sculptors I have seen are:
- NM Brooks
- Sawdust Dave
- Piet

… or, indeed, anyone who has modelled the Wasa, Sovereign of the Seas or any other heavily-ornamented ship.

 

Not to take anything away from the fine work done by these gentlemen, but not everybody (me !!) possesses their level of sculpting talent.

 

For the rest of us, the following idea may prove useful. Seen here, RSchissler shows how he has taken a pack of plastic figurines and trimmed them to create his knechten figureheads. These figures can be purchased in a variety of scale sizes, so choosing a size to suit your own build is very easy.

 

With Randy’s permission, I have lifted these photos from his Golden Hind build log. His steps should be self-explanatory:

 

Edited March 26, 2016 by CaptainSteve

[JSGerson]

You can see a great example of this technique on Blue Ensign's Pegasus build log starting at post 1372

[kev1962]

Just stumbled onto this thread and as a total noob I have to say I'm now terrified...maybe just maybe one day I will be able to contribute.

[Mirabell61]

WATCH PARTS - Search E-Bay for this phrase: "steam punk". A 30g packet containing hundreds of miniscule cogs, gear-wheels, coils and springs cost me less than A$20.00 (including shipping). Watch-spring coils will, I imagine, make excellent mast-bands!!

 

SteamPunk.JPG

 

Not bad Steve,

 

Steam Punk, maybe some suitable wheels for modeling winches, etc....

 

Nils

Edited April 12, 2016 by Mirabell61

[mattsayers148]

SELF-ADHESIVE COPPER STIPS & WOOD VENEER

 

Simple, custom battery holder with switch.

 

I have zero experience with electronics or model lighting so this made things easier. I picked a 3mm red LED and a 3V battery to light a lantern. Start with making a small box that fits the battery snug. Cut two strips of copper tape and adhere them to the inside surface of the box. Make sure you drill a small hole in the bottom to be able to insert a toothpick in and push out the battery. Next cut the copper on each side into an 'L' shape, leaving one side long and the other the length of the box. Add a thin copper strip to to the cut down side, making sure to not have any part of the two touching. These become the switch.

 

Next, cut a void out of another piece of veneer and glue it on top of the side with two strips, leaving two squares of copper exposed. Cut a thin strip of veneer that will easily fit in this void and put a piece of copper strip on the end. Make it big enough to contact both copper spots(the other part of the switch). Then glue another piece of veneer to sandwich on top. Bend over and glue the copper legs to the box face, scrape off the self adhesive and paint, if desired. Next, tape down the ends of the wire to each side of the box with copper tape. Paint, if desired. Make sure the copper on the strip faces the copper on the box.

 

To turn on, simply insert wood strip, copper to copper. Pull out to turn off. This can be adapted to fit whatever size battery you need and can easily be disguised into a part of your model and/or stand.

[grsjax]

1x7, 1x19 and 7x7 strand wire rope in sizes down to .008" diameter is available from fishing gear suppliers.  Great stuff for making wire rigging and other things require wire rope.  Here is a link to one place that sells it.  There are others including Amazon.

http://www.afwhiseas.com/Micro-Uncoated-Stainless-Steel-Trace-Wire-Bright-s/2022.htm

http://www.afwhiseas.com/Micro-Uncoated-Stainless-Trace-Wire-1-x-19-Bright-s/2227.htm

Edited May 8, 2016 by grsjax

[hornet]

Cardboard drink coasters are great for making up templates for items such as filler blocks.

 

 

[twintrow]

Good idea Hornet....and I assume you donated generously of course!

 

Tom

[pompey2]

I use an old cereal box for glue dispensing.

Keep a side of the box handy, when you have a glue task (PVA, 2 pack or CA) cut about an inch square off.

Drop a small puddle on the waxed side, it won't soak in, dispense with a sharpened toothpick.

Once done fold the square in on itself (stops you gluing the square to the inside of the bin) and throw away.

 

Nick

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

I use my admiral 's baking paper. It works well also.

Havagooday to all .

Greg

[Jack12477]

I use the plastic covers that come on some canned goods (so the unused portions can be preserved in the fridge) - the PVA glue does not adhere to the plastic so after a while I just peel the built-up cured glue off and start over. CA doesn't peel off so easily - for that I use a piece of scrap card stock.

[Landlubber Mike]

For PVA which I usually dilute, I use the clear caps that come with the big laundry detergent containers.  The PVA of course doesn't stick to it, and it makes for a small, reusable container.  With three kids we're always doing laundry in my house, so I have an endless supply of these

[twintrow]

I use jello and pudding cups (after my grand daughter empties), and also use them for her water colors.  Double Duty.

 

Tom

[mtaylor]

I use just a scrap of waxed paper for PVA and CA.   And a toothpick.  

[cobra1951]

I use the plastic tops off of Pringle tubes and a toothpick. They are also good for mixing small amounts of paint

[Greg the peg leg sailor]

Awe pringles they are good

[Izzy Madd]

I use the plastic tops off of Pringle tubes and a toothpick. They are also good for mixing small amounts of paint

Hi folks trouble is back.

 

I use the bottom from a plastic soda bottle. Then I have five wells, one for PVA, PVA and water, soapy water, CA and acetone, in one place and they don't fall over. And the sides make good windows at a push. I also use the cap as a well if I only need one glue pot.