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HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM


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Thanks all for the comments.

 

Martin - the workshop will be much larger than that, the back basement for the full size dirty tools is almost complete, at 12x25, just finished painting, now need to complete lighting and outlets.

The front basement where the actual shipyard will be is 25x25, that is the pic I posted, I am still doing demo of the old family room at the moment so still a few months away.

 

Ben

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A workshop you can be comfortable is everything... well... maybe not "everything"..  ;)  :D     Get it the way you want it, Ben.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Getting much closer to having a functioning workshop again, a few more power outlets to install now I have figured where everything is going.

 

Ben

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Getting back to work on Pegasus may be delayed due to hull movement in its new home, the new workshop has low humidity and of course it's winter time, may have to wait until summer and hope it expands and closes the gaps.

Maybe some work of my Confederacy while I wait.

 

Ben

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Even a shallow bowl of water in the shop might help things, Ben. Ideally a humidifier is best, but it's better than nothing. Varying humidity due to seasonal change is the enemy of wooden models. Try to keep things relatively stable year round.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Yeh Druxey, I'm thinking about getting a whole home humidifier installed to our warm air furnace to take care of this issue and help with other problems.

 

Ben

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and lighting...so so so important...did you use the new led bulbs?.......lucky if you can use a humidifier....difficult where i am, as the water contains so much calcium and manganese...........and wow...i was never aware of that kind of problem with that technique of building.....hope you find a solution................

Edited by yancovitch
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This happened to Franklin, while building his beautiful Egmont model. He applied a wet cloth to the hull overnight and in the morning it was back to speck. I believe he added the wales and some internal planks and the problem was solved.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Wow Ben. Sorry to see that your having expansion problems. Hopefully getting the humidity

stabilized will keep it from happening again. On the good side that's a great looking workshop

you've got going there. Good luck.

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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Sorry to hear about your humidity issues. But that will sort out with the 'right equipment'  

I love your workshop, lots of space and light.

 

Remco

Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime. 

Current build HMS Kingfisher

 

MSW 1.0 log click here

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Had the same with my model, and luckily the gaps closed completely as soon as humidity returned to the normal level and stayed there for a few days. But it was scary!

Your model is truly a museum-quality, and museum quality requires museum humidity controlling equipment :P Consider it as a compliment from mother nature :)

Edited by Mike Y
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Thanks all, I have placed a shallow dish of water right next to the model now as a stop gap to try and alleviate some of the issue and stop it getting worse while I figure a way to fix long term.

 

Yancovitch - Yep, new 4 foot LED shoplights have been installed, for light quality, energy efficiency and long life.

 

Ben

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Those delicate wood pieces need a humidity percentage in the mid 40's. Go down into the 30% range or lower and cracks start.  Most home "weather stations" have a relative humidity range displayed on them. I have one at each end of my house (a ranch style) and my forced hot air furnace has a humidifier attached to the plenum on the furnace. I maintain the whole house between 41 and 45% all winter.

 

Hope the framing recovers. It looks very good.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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That's such a terrific workshop that I'm sure the humidity & lighting issues will become things of the past. 

 

Am I just a wee bit jealous?

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

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  • 2 months later...

So back to my Pegasus build, some major issues stemming from my move have badly affected the hull, I have had obvious and pretty severe distortions in the keel and framing in the midships area, large gaps between frames and twisting have occurred.

The hull is stable now due to my adding humidity control of the workshop but the damage has been done.

Now what to do about it??

 

1. Start all over again.

2. A la Mark and his Licorne, save what I can and rebuild what I cannot.

 

I'm leaning towards no2, remove as many frames as can be saved, and make a new keel for them to be fixed to.

 

I will update when I have decided which way I'm going to go.

 

Ben

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Ben,

Try the isopropyl.  Maybe resetting some frames?   If it's just the keel, that's good.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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My heart breaks for you. Good luck Ben!

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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Damn, Ben, sorry to see this happen to you. This seem to be a common problem when placing fillers between the frames and creating a solid wall of timber. It looks like you should be able to break down the hull into three or four large sections where the major gaps appear. Assuming the keel is still to spec (do remeasure it!) perhaps you can reassemble the groups onto the keel with slightly larger fillers in the gaps. Good luck.

Greg

website
Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

Finished build
Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

Current build
Speedwell, 1752

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Ben, Looking at those last shots inside the hull tells me that the wood has definitely shrunk across the grain, do not discount the wet towel Idea, when I took the tarp off my large boat maria this spring the deck planks had done the exact same thing because of the low humidity. One of the reasons that oakum caulked boats do not like being out of the water they shrink across the planks and then leak until they swell back up.

 

I was pouring water over the oiled planks for three days without much success then changed my strategy and laid wed towels over the deck and it all swelled back up in a day.

 

I would expect that once the wood swells back that the other issues will also lessen. I cannot hurt and is much less work that tearing it apart. once the wood has swelled then keeping the humidity stable should hold things untill the longitudenal elements are added.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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