Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED

[popeye the sailor]

very glad to see your finding time for modeling Mark.........good indication that Janet must be feeling better     the deck beam layout looks great.....I would never have known there was a problem     wonderful!  

[src]

Looking real good Mark. The day you stop learning is the day you close up your build bench.

Sam

[BANYAN]

Mark if you can live with it all is good. The day I stop learning is the day they bury me  Even on repetitive cuts using a stopper etc  I seem to have minor error creep in so I don't think it ever stops.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[giampieroricci]

Very good, Mark!   

[Beef Wellington]

Very nice Mark, its fascinating the different techniques used between Anglo and French builders, things one would assume would be somewhat consistent but guess both methods on the coamings worked fine.  She's really looking great now (not that she didn't before... sure you know what I mean...)

Edited November 15, 2016 by Beef Wellington

[mtaylor]

Today's progress and the adventure continues.....  much head scratching, much smoke blowing out the window... fed the scrapbox as I sorted out my approach but success I do believe.

 

Rather than trying to attack the whole deck (center area) at once, I decided to break it into logical sections.   So.. aft section first as that's my anchor point for measurements. I spent the better part of last couple of days setting up the drawings for this with the deck plan as a basis and adding reference points and checking and re-checking measurements.

 

I finally produced a drawing showing what I thought I needed, printed it out, cut out the section and.. rats... off... Recheck measurements, reworked the drawing and repeated the test.  Got it.  Or so I thought.  I cut a piece of thin basswood and the fit was pretty good.

 

I then cut a piece of pear with etched in planking lines thinking... "one piece.. it should look good.".  It does look good (first picture).  However, not quite as good a fit as I'd like.  I mis-calculated the kerf of the Deathstar.  Different woods and different thicknesses affect the kerf.  It's not a constant but a variable as thicker wood needs more power which gives a bit of a wider kerf... a "Doh!" moment.  Back to the drawing board.  I ran some cutting tests (3 altogether for consistancy) using pear of the appropriate thickness to check the kerf and then ran those numbers into the calculator WITHOUT rounding them and got the correct kerf.  

 

While I had the drawing in the rework process, I decided instead of one piece and trying to get it to conform to the curve of the deck beams, I choose to cut individual planks.  Re-checked 3 or 4 times my calculations and it worked...  (See pic 2).  A light sanding to remove the ash but leave some of the char gives a nice fine line for the caulking.  It's been glued down into position and still needs some more light sanding to remove a bit of smoke stain and also to smooth out decking's surface.

 

Hopefully, tomorrow's efforts on the aft midsection (the next section forward) will yield good results.  I think it'll go a bit faster once I get into the rhythm of things.  It may seem like more trouble, but with the tapered planks on the deck I think this can produce a more uniform planking than trying to mark up the beams with the tapered widths and match them. 

 

 

[BANYAN]

You will have the characteristics for each genus and varying thicknesses all sorted by the end of this build Mark - looking good.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[src]

Looking real good Mark. The Death Star can really make a difference in fit up time it appears. For the plank line, do you run at a lower power, faster feed or both?

Sam

[mtaylor]

Sam,

 

I'm running at what I consider a medium low speed of 10mm/sec and power is at 9 mA which is about medium.  Max speed is around 300mm for engraving so there's speed available, but the vibration at anything over 20mm/sec isn't worth the hassle as it introduces distortion on the corners and curves.  For the power, the tube (45W) is rated at 23 mA but I limit that to 80% of that (18 mA) to improve tube life.  Things go differently for different thicknesses of wood and also type of wood.  

 

The other thing is to watch the temperature of the cooling water... the colder it is (to a max low of 65 degrees F) the more efficient the tube is and thus needs less power.  I'm not watching that close right now as these are short cuts (in time) and so my max temp is just above ambient in the house.  You certainly don't want to run these things if the cooling water gets above 80 degrees F as that will burn out the tube.  

 

Probably more info than anyone wants to know.... 

Edited October 26, 2016 by mtaylor

[popeye the sailor]

I'd love one of these.........would make my life a heck of a lot easier.   awesome stuff Mark

[mtaylor]

Another minor update...   The aft midsection has received it's thick stuff.    There's one plank I need to rip out and replace but that's a job for tomorrow.  I've installed the bitt that sits behind the mainmast.  It needed to be installed now as it's morticed into the deck beam and the thick stuff will also help hold it in place.  

 

The area around the main mast is a pretty busy place.  There's the bitt aft, a pinrail forward, the two crew ladders to the lower deck, four elmtree type pumps, and numerous eyebolts with blocks.  But.. most of those things can come after the deck is completely planked and the ceiling installed.  

 

[mtaylor]

Denis,

 

I don't know if it would make your life easier, but definitely more "interesting" as in "may you live in interesting times".         The downside is doing the drawings.   But there is a flow that one gets into and for me it seems to work.

[src]

Pin rails below deck Mark? Assuming they are belay points, but for what?

Sam

[mtaylor]

Sam,

 

On the 8-pdr French frigates, the quarterdeck stops before the main mast.  On the 12-pdr and 18-pdrs, it extends past the main mast.  Some of the main mast rigging actually is belayed on the gundeck. Lest I forget, there's also a longboat/barge sitting there in front of the main mast also.  Rigging will get interesting.  I'm thinking ahead and may have to belay the lines, annotate them and then pull them up when the main mast gets installed.  Kind of backwards rigging method, methinks.  Just won't be room for these meatballs I call fingers and all the stuff in the way.

[EJ_L]

Wow! Rigging is already hard enough and now you have to belay lines down below decks. I'm looking forward to seeing this reverse rigging method you have planned. I understand the concept but I have never seen it and am very curious. 

 

Someone out there will make a killing in the ship building hobby if they can ever create scale robotic people that could get under there to tie off those lines!

[popeye the sailor]

I think the tack lines are rigged down there as well.   yea......this will be very interesting to see  

[mtaylor]

The rigging is going to give me headaches and probably induce me to partake of adult beverages.   As a side project I'm seeing how small I can make feedthroughs with sheaves (real or dummy) for the lines that go through the hull and belay to a cleat.   Worst case... I'll just drill a hole 

 

The plan may not be viable, but i don't see any other choice except to install the main mast and associated yards  and then rig it before I add the quarterdeck.  That just doesn't seem prudent.  To facilitate this, I'll have to cut her free from the build board once the gundeck is planked and ceiled. That will give me about 2 inches less of framing in the way.  

[cog]

Still not prepared to let her go ... Frightened parent ... or don't trust the crawling creeps around your baby ...

[Sjors]

Yup, it goes the right way   

 

Sjors

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the comments and the "likes".   Things have been somewhat at a standstill while I test "feedtrough sheave" making... so far I'm not happy with the results.   I'm also finishing up the thick stuff center planking of the gundeck and discovered a few challenges...  like the plans seem to be distorted near the bow.  The centerline veers to the starboard by a max of 1/16" which means much of my centerline planking is a tad off at the bow.  I'm correcting this as I wish to cut the deck planks on the laser.  Will it be easier than hand spiling?  Probably not, but there's a lot of fun running the Deathstar and I'm pretty happy the way the thick center planking is coming out.  

 

Lastly, I'm waiting for a new lens for the Deathstar.  Current lens is a 2.0" (50.8mm) focus length and the one on order is a 2.5" (63.5MM).  What this should do is give me a better kerf with less of an angle (or wedge when viewed from the end of the cut) as the beam will be "thinner".  There's a technical explanation but I'll keep it simple for now.   I'm in the process of modifying the spacers that hold the table in place to adjust for this additional focal length.    

 

Just trying some different things....   I do hope to have a real update with pictures sometime this weekend. 

[BANYAN]

DARPA will want to confiscate your "weapon" after all these mods Mark; better keep it in a safe place

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited November 13, 2016 by BANYAN

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.   

 

Pat... I don't think DARPA will care... they have bigger lasers... much bigger like mulit-MW.  

 

 

Here's the update..  Center line planking is finished and sanded.  I've added the bitts that needed to be installed before the planking was done.  I'm working on the three ladders going down to the lower deck while I still have access to that.  I'd hate to drop one and then figure out how to fish it out.  Seems Mr. Murphy has been running rampant around these parts lately.

 

I'm also in the process of building the coamings and grates.  I'm going to put blue tape over them before doing the rest of the planking and ceiling just to keep crap from dropping down into the interior.  I'm still wanting to keep as much of the furniture out of the way as I can for the ceiling spalls so those other bits and pieces will have to wait.

 

As a sidenote, I only sanded of the loose char and ash as ended up with a nice thin black line between planks for the caulking.  

 

Pressing on.....    and as always, comments, critiques, better ideas, are always welcome.

 

 

[BANYAN]

The planking looks good Mark; she is slowly taking shape.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[jansmiss]

Hello Mark,

 

Verry nice work, enjoy following your topic

 

Jan

[John Allen]

The rigging is going to give me headaches and probably induce me to partake of adult beverages.   As a side project I'm seeing how small I can make feedthroughs with sheaves (real or dummy) for the lines that go through the hull and belay to a cleat.   Worst case... I'll just drill a hole 

 

The plan may not be viable, but i don't see any other choice except to install the main mast and associated yards  and then rig it before I add the quarterdeck.  That just doesn't seem prudent.  To facilitate this, I'll have to cut her free from the build board once the gundeck is planked and ceiled. That will give me about 2 inches less of framing in the way.  

Mark,

 

I found when encountering a problem that causes a headache the best way to avoid the headache is to consume many beverages before you start the rigging. Then your totally relaxed and do not give a you know what, and the problem with the rigging will go smooth as silk. Caveat; hopefully when you wake up the next day maybe the rigging is ok or you made a mess of things and now you have the headache.   looking great its going to be a beauty.

[src]

Mark, coming along very well. How did you assemble your stairs? I struggled with mine.

Sam

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the likes and comments.  Progress is still slow at the moment but steady.

 

 

G'day Mark, very nice attention to detail, she is looking very nice, it must be a whole lot of a different approach to modeling with this Death Star, if I were using it I would probably end up tatooing myself, where as you seem to have a handle on it all, and putting it to good use,

  best regards John.

 

Simple not to tattoo yourself, John.  Keep the lid closed when the power switch is on.     I don't follow my own advice always, but luckily there's a safety switch to kill power to the laser tube if the lid is opened.  I'm still learning this beast though I do admit I'm hooked and finding more uses every time I look at things to be done

 

 

Mark,

 

I found when encountering a problem that causes a headache the best way to avoid the headache is to consume many beverages before you start the rigging. Then your totally relaxed and do not give a you know what, and the problem with the rigging will go smooth as silk. Caveat; hopefully when you wake up the next day maybe the rigging is ok or you made a mess of things and now you have the headache.   looking great its going to be a beauty.

 

As much as I like that idea and have practiced it in the past... not so much these days.  I find I'm more accident prone when there's a relaxing agent in my blood.   

 

 

Mark, coming along very well. How did you assemble your stairs? I struggled with mine.

Sam

 

The stairs?  I made a jig which is a flat piece with 2 wood strips at right angles.  I put the steps to the risers with glue and then finesse it in the jig with some brass clamps to secure them until dry.  Everything, when I don't screw it up, comes out nice and square.  

[ggrieco]

Hello Mark, I really enjoyed catching up on your build tonight. She's coming along beautifully. I can't wait to see how you tackle the rigging!!

[Liberto]

Hi Mark, I like the way you work, it's very professional, you take care of the cleaning, and everything is done in detail. Congratulations, a free hug Liberto.

[mtaylor]

Thanks for the "likes", the comments, and the discussion.  

 

Things have been running, shall we say, dead dog slow here lately in the shipyard.  I'm putting the hours in but seems like nothing gets finished.     Probably normal then at this  stage.

 

The center line furniture aft of the main mast is done except for the pantry which is on hold.  No point in blocking access at this point.  Also the two crew ladderways forward of the main mast are done.  The pic shows the capstan but it's only set into place at this point so it doesn't get misplaced or damaged.  The crossbeam for the pinrail forward of the main mast has  been safely tucked away so it doesn't get damaged.  I'm moving forward on the deck to the remaining hatchways.   After the planking the rest of the deck and doing the ceiling, I'll install what I have ready and make the pumps (do over!!!) and the fireplaces.

 

Part of the bog that's slowing things down is taking measurements for the planking and transferring them to the drawings I'm making for the laser.  

 

I do find myself being happier with my output as I think I'm getting better at joinery and even more patient with fitting things than I was before.  After a couple of "by your leave, sir" hassles, I found I need to measure 3 times before transferring any measurement to the wood.  A bit of confidence here and there goes a long ways.  

 

Here's the pic and as always, comments, critiques, and discussion are welcome.