Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF

[popeye the sailor]

nice job!

[SJSoane]

 

Michael,

Words escape me. The metal work is exquisite, and it is exceptionally helpful to see how you did it. Are you using a small jeweler's torch?

 

Mark

[Jim Lad]

Michael,

 

I turn my back for a day and you've got a heap more done!  Lovely work, mate!

 

John

[DSiemens]

Incredible metal work.  You have some real talent.     

[overdale]

This lovely model is very much in the tradition of those huge Victorian model sailing yachts that are now so valuable they are in glass cases and we never see them sailing. Really looking forward to seeing this finished and taking it's rightful place on the water.  

[michael mott]

Russ, thanks, Silver soldering always feels a bit nerve wracking for me.

 

Popeye, thanks for following along.

 

Mark, thanks for the compliment, regarding the torch, it is an air acetylene one and the tip is a medium size, I have a smaller tip but have misplaced it. My friend the silversmith does use a torch about the same size.

 

John, thanks, that'l teach ya for turning around!

 

Daniel, thanks I think it all has to do with that 10,000 hour rule, I have been doing metal for a long time, and I really enjoy it.

 

Dale, Thanks, I think that some of those models you speak of were probably an influence in my early years when I spent hours in places like the South Kensington Science museum and Greenwich. Getting her in the water is a very motivating goal.

 

The interesting thing about working on this model is that for me it feels more balanced than some of the other projects that I have worked on over the years. There is so much scope for working on different materials and elements from wood to metal and fabric. I am also learning so much by reading all of the wonderful build logs that are shared within this wonderful community of ship and boat builders. I am actually looking forward to working on the sails, and firing up the old treadle sewing machine. 

 

Michael

[cog]

Michael,

 

Brass work on the chainplates is as usual excellent.

 

What's that piece of 'stone' you use for soldering. Have seen it before on a build log somewhere ...

[michael mott]

Hello Carl on this page scroll down to see the honeycomb soldering block. they are not that expensive and the honeycomb is great because you cat put rods in to hold and line things up.

 

http://www.silversupplies.com/catalog/new_product/soldering_block.shtml

 

or go to this link

 

http://www.fdjtool.com/Category/965_1/Solder_Blocks.aspx

 

I purchased mine at the local silver smiths supply house in Edmonton.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

I managed to get one of the chainplates roughly shaped today it is mostly tapered with a parallel section below the spacing block. I thought a decorative flourish works for the bottoms.

 

 

 

 

The screws are 1 inch long 4x40 brass machine screw.I need to reshape the head to get rid of the slots.

 

Most of the day was used up collecting some firewood and helping a friend move some steers and Heifers.

 

Michael

[cog]

Michael,

 

You're half a farmer! Thank you for the info on the honeycomb soldering block

 

Those chainplates look good, better than the first you made. It has a look of strength about it, what the first one missed.

[michael mott]

Carl, the first chainplate was not actually a chainplate it was just a test on a scrap to sort out how to fold and solder the loop. This is a final shape and now just needs cleaning up a little more.

 

Michael

[captainbob]

Michael.

 

Love the chain plate with that little detail at the bottom.

You're a real craftsman but you are an artist also.

 

Bob

[hopeful]

HI Michael,

 

Glad you are back.  Really enjoy your workmanship and detailed log. She sure is a big gal!

 

Will enjoy following your build from here.

 

Cheers,

Hopeful aka David

[michael mott]

Bob thanks for those kind words. here is a link to a one man art show I had a few years ago.

http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/library/artshow%20dec%2005?page=1

 

David Thanks for dropping by.

 

A long time ago I was given a block of Lignum Vitea, it is tough as nails but slippery, due to the oils within the structure of the wood.

 

First I made a dowel

 

 

Then indexing along I cut the grooves for the shrouds and lower brackets.

 

 

Then a different form tool to round the edges

 

 

there is no sanding the finish is just from the tool.

 

 

Next the blank was cut into smaller blanks with a jewelers.

 

 

Then a small brass split chuck was made to hold the rough blanks

 

 

The shaping tool for the face

 

 

First one

 

 

I am really impressed with the way this wood turns on the lathe.

 

 

 

Now I need to sort out a jig to drill the holes. That rope does look like old hemp rope.

 

Michael

[druxey]

A real renaissance man! Love the art exhibit, Michael. And your progress pictures make me smile. Lovely work, as usual.

[mtaylor]

Just incredible. I disappear for a bit and shazam... art.   Amazing deadeyes and chainplates.

[hexnut]

I agree with Druxey, great to see the gallery art as well as the art you are creating with this build.

 

Some of your sculpture has sort of an Isamo Noguchi feel to it, love the juxtaposition of organic and precisely crafted elements.. (Sorry, i will I get warning points for pretentious artspeak in a model ship forum?  )

 

Anyway, really inspiring stuff!

[Kevin]

you are so so clever.

[michael mott]

Druxey ,Mark, Bob, and Kevin, thank you so muck for those kind words.

 

I used the same slit chuck to drill the holes in the deadeyes.

 

 

by adding the hose clamp it worked to hold the deadeye. and rotated on the 1/4 inch dowel held in the mill vice.

 

 

I like to use a centre drill for the wood sometimes especially since the holes were close to the curved part of the deadeye.

 

 

 

After threading the rope through the deadeyes they look to be OK proportion wise.

 

 

 

Now I just have to finish the rest of them.

 

Michael

[russ]

Michael:

Very nice work.

 

Russ

[cog]

Michael,

 

Sharp indeed, maybe change the colour of the rope between the deadeyes to get some contrast ...

[captainbob]

Michael,

 

The chain plate, deadeye and lanyard all look good. 

 

Will there be an easy way to release them when you want to lower the mast for transit?

 

Bob

[Jim Lad]

Michael,

 

I've had a computer problem for a couple of days and am just catching up again.  Great stuff as usual, mate!

 

John

[russ]

Michael:

Taking a second look, are your deadeyes aligned properly? I think they should be turned around opposite so that the middle hole of the upper deadeye is at the top and the one on the lower deadeye is at the bottom. I do not know why I did not see the first time around.

 

Russ

[jo conrad]

Hi Michael,

 

if you turn these crack deadeyes through 180° ( the holes for the middle loops to be at the uppermost and lowermost corner of this triangular setup)  they will work and look properly. At least that´s the way I´ve always seen them rigged. Must have to do with the stability of the wood itself.

My chapeau to your work, man. Nosing into your log has become one of my daily treats.

Germanus

[cog]

Russ,

 

Nobody saw it, because we were all blinded by the bright and shiny quality of the work!!!

[Jim Lad]

Ooh!  You're right, Russ.  I missed it too!!!

 

John

[michael mott]

Carl, bob, John, Thanks for looking in.

 

Carl you mentioned a contrast in colour, I thought there was already quite a contrast.

 

Russ, Thanks for the heads up, These are not actually attached to anything at the moment Just looking at the overall proportions.

 

I am going to use some black thread to make the shrouds I think I will be able to make the length just long enough without lengthening the rope walk.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

Russ, Germanus, Carl, John. thanks for your thoughts, and information.

 

Here is a correction, and this is just to get a sense of what I am dealing with.

 

 

 

Michael

Edited March 24, 2013 by michael mott

[russ]

Michael:

THAT looks great.

 

Russ