Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 by gjdale - FINISHED - 1/48 - Cross-Section

[Jack Panzeca]

Nice work, Grant.  I would never have thought of a 90 degree router bit.  Great solution.

[gjdale]

Thanks for the good words and all the likes folks.

 

First Frames

There are 5 double frames and 12 single frames in this cross section. I decided to start with the foremost frame, which is the double frame D1/D2. Figured this would be a good place to get techniques/methodology sorted out.

 

All frames will be made from 1/4" thick Swiss Pear. The stock is very slightly over-size for thickness. In making the first frames, I chose to leave the stock thickness "as-is" until the frame assembly is complete, and then reduce by passing the completed frames through the thickness sander. I may live to regret that decision, but we'll see how it goes!

Prior to cutting these out on the scroll saw, the timber stock was covered with low-tack painters’ tape, and the templates printed on sticky label paper and stuck on top of the tape. This is a tip I picked up from a scroll saw forum - it makes removal of the pattern very easy and there is no sticky residue to clean up afterwards. I have to say, having now tried this method, that it works a treat!

In laying out the pattern pieces, care was taken to ensure that the grain ran along the length of each piece (as far as possible).

The pieces were cut roughly to shape on the scroll saw, leaving about 3mm all round, and then the final shape was achieved using the Byrnes disc sander for the outside curves, and the oscillating spindle sander for the inside curves.

When it came to cutting the scarf joints and keel notches, I experimented with a couple of different methods, including hand saw and chisel, band saw, and using the mill with an end cutter. In the end, I decided that I was over-thinking it, and simply cut these as accurately as I could with the scroll saw, and then cleaned up with a (very sharp) chisel and file where necessary (which to be honest, wasn’t much).

 

The chocks were deliberately left over-size to provide a “handle” for cutting and shaping the “business” end. The bulk of the handle will be cut off prior to assembly and the remainder cleaned up on the spindle sander after assembly.

Here are the completed frame pieces cut out and ready for assembly:

Glue-up awaits, but if I've missed something important here, now's the time to tell me!

Edited November 11, 2014 by gjdale

[mobbsie]

Hi Grant,

 

Nice explanation and execution mate.

 

All looks good to me mate, I would say you are good to go ahead and glue up.

 

Your ahead of me at the moment mate and I'm supposed to be the quick builder, somewhere along the line things have changed, ( interesting ).

 

Just one question, What size holes are you going to drill for your treenails ?.  I was thinking of a 3/64 or 4/64.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[mtaylor]

Grant,

 

The only thing I see missing is glue.  Put those babies together as they look great.

 

Almost forgot:  Welcome to the Club of Over-thinkers.  We meet every day and at every hour.  

[keelhauled]

Grant,

 

I'm enjoying the show and look forward to more insights from the dark side!  Great work!

[gjdale]

Thanks Mobbsie, Mark and Marc, and all of the "likes".  Continuing on:

 

First Frames - continued

 

The frames pieces were placed over the pattern pieces and clamped in place to a scrap piece of pine board while the pieces were glued on the butt joins.

 

 

Once these had dried, the chocks were fitted into place and after the glue had dried the chocks were first trimmed close using the scroll saw, and then finished on the oscillating spindle sander.  The final step was to put the whole frame through the thickness sander for a couple of light passes to clean them up and bring them down to the finished size of 1//4” thick.

 

 

On first glance these look okay, but on closer inspection you can see that the joints around the chocks are not very good.     

 

 

As is my way, I pondered on this for a day or two, and then went back to my references (yeah, the ones I should have consulted in the first place!  ).  In reading both Antscherl (The Fully Framed Model - Vol 1) and Tosti (Naiad Frigate - Vol 1), I discovered that while both used slightly different methods for making and installing the chocks, the one thing they had in common was that the chocks were fitted to one side of the futtock scarph first, and then the second side (from the other futtock) was fitted.  It seems pretty obvious in hindsight, but I guess that’s why it’s called hindsight……. Yep, nothing for it but to re-do the frames (again)!

 

Chocks

 

A little more pondering, and I believe I have come up with a mix of methods that should work for me.  The first step was to “standardise” the chocks.  A quick check through the drawings/patterns revealed that all frames have two sizes of chocks, and these sizes are consistent through all of the frames.  The larger chocks have a base of 12mm and the smaller 8mm.  I measured the angle at the apex of the chocks and it too is consistent at 18 degrees either side of the centreline.  As I now had the necessary details for mass production, it was time to well, mass produce…………..

 

I first cut a series of ‘stock’ pieces (12mm and 8mm wide) from a 3” wide sheet of 1/4” pear, cutting across the grain so that in the finished chocks, the grain would run along the length of the chock.  I then set the angle on the mitre gauge of the Byrnes disc sander to 18 degrees.  As this angle is not one of the pre-set angles available, I used a digital protractor to set the angle and locked it in.

 

Each side of the end of the stock piece was sanded on this angle, forming an apex along the centreline.  I tried to be very precise by marking lines various, but in the end discovered that the Mk 1 eyeball, calibrated with the aid of the Optivisor, gave just as accurate results.

 

 

 

The chock was then sliced off on the Byrnes table saw, and the process repeated until I had a pile of lotsa chocks.  Here’s what 136 chocks in two sizes looks like:

 

 

I then went on to re-cut the frame pieces, and that is when a major set-back occurred. Just as I was cutting the last two pieces on the scroll saw, what appeared at first to be a simple blade breakage was subsequently discovered to be the sheering of a 6mm bolt in the Drive Link Assembly.       After a half hour on the phone with a very helpful service guy from Carbatec, I’m still not sure of the way ahead.  He is going to call me back on Monday to let me know if they can get me the replacement parts to repair the machine.  It’s not going to be an easy job either, but the Carbatec guy told me I was going to need to “man up” and strip the machine down to do the job myself! (my wife laughed uproariously at this suggestion - go figure…………  ).

 

It looks like progress will be halted indefinitely while I get this sorted      , although I may use my original frames for some further ‘test-bed’ work.  Currently thinking through the issue of whether or not to show additional fastenings (bolts) in the double frames (as per AOTS) or stick with the simplified representation shown in the plans.  Currently leaning towards adding the extras - some nice examples of this on MSB by both Spanien and Migue. The questions is, what size would be appropriate for these bolts? (grateful for any input here)  I'm thinking of using copper wire as it has the advantage of being able to be blackened in situ using Liver of Sulphur, as has been demonstrated many times by EdT. I have some wire that is 1/32" thick (about 0.8mm), which at 1:48 scale equates to an actual diameter of 1 1/2", so I may give this a go on the "test bed" to see how it looks.

Edited November 16, 2014 by gjdale

[Sjors]

Grant,

 

I see a lot of pictures and a lot more words and I don't understand a thing about it !!!!!!

But as I told some people about it, I enjoy what you are doing.

I think those chocks are at the bottom of the frames ....

But why so many ?????

You've got 2 on each frame so you need 68 frames ???????

That looks not like a cross section but an extended version of the Victory     

 

Sjors

[gjdale]

Sjors,

 

The chocks go with each join of the futtocks that make up the frame.  There are five components to each frame, and hence four chocks required per frame, two large and two small.  With a total of 22 frames (counting the double frames), that makes a total of 88 chocks required.  Then there is the allowance for the occasional loss to the space-time-continuum between the modelling desk and the floor, and of course, the odd re-do of a frame here and there.  So I just made lots.  

[Sjors]

Thanks Grant,

 

It make sense to me.....( i think )     

 

Sjors

[alangr4]

 

Wonderful progress Grant and a great explanation of your work to date.

 

Bad luck about your scroll saw.

 

If your saw is going to be out of action for an extended period, feel free to drop by and use mine.

 

Alan

[mobbsie]

That's a real bummer about the scroll saw mate, thankfully it was only a mechanical part and not a part of you, mechanics are so much easier to fix.

 

At least you now have your systems sorted out and you know which way you are going, once you get your scroll saw back it'll be all systems go.

 

Could you not take the saw into work and get your workshop to repair it, it may be a facility open to you or do you sail in a multi story office block.?

 

Your method of gluing the chocks to one futtock scarph worked for me with the exception of the making of the chocks, I still made mine individually but that is a very minor point.

 

One consolation mate is you have Rocket to fall back on.

 

That's a very kind offer from Alan and one that could be considered mate.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[Sjors]

Or use mine Grant         

 

Sjors

[gjdale]

Thanks guys!

 

Alan - that's a very generous offer and one that I may well take up, depending on how things go tomorrow. 

 

Tony - you got it in one - the concrete jungle!

 

Sjors - much as I'd like to take up your offer, unless you're springing for the airfare mate, I'm afraid it's a non-starter. 

[mtaylor]

Great frames and chocks, Grant.   Bad on the saw.  But what Tony said... it's parts and not body parts.   Is this a "special bolt" or is it one available at some hardware outlets?  Still stripping down the saw may not be fun.  

[gjdale]

Thanks Mark,

 

It's a special part with a left hand M6 thread. I was talking this through with Mobbsie on Skype last night and showed him the schematic of the parts/assembly. We agreed that I may in fact be able to manufacture my own replacement part if Carbatec can't come through. The most difficult part of the process will be finding a LH M6 die to cut the thread. Plenty available on line, but buying one locally could be a challenge! The other issue is access - that will be a challenge too. Hopefully, I could manage through the access hatch, but it will be tricky. Stripping the machine down to do this will be a major undertaking, to be avoided if at all possible!

[Jack Panzeca]

Hi Grant,

 

Sorry about your saw.    They always seem to crap out at the most inopportune time.  Good luck with the repair.

 

Nice progress.  Your explanations are great and much appreciated.  I probably should just stay a month behind you.

 

Great work. 

[gjdale]

Thanks Jack - the way things are going at the moment, you'll be a month ahead of me in to time!

[gjdale]

Tool Time

 

So, while I waited for a couple of weeks to sort out with Carbatec the parts I needed, I continued with my non-ship project, which appears somehow to have leapt into this photo of my broken Scroll Saw Drive Link Assembly.  

 

 

It seems that General International  (makers of my Excalibur Scroll-saw), have changed the design.  Here’s why:

 

 

 

This is what the upper Drive Link Assembly looks like. The schematics in the background are the only form of instructions I had for working out how to take it out!  About two thirds of the distance from the left hand end is a bottle-screw arrangement.  This is where the 6mm (1/4”) bolt sheered.  Here’s a few close-ups:

 

 

 

 

It appears that this may have been a not unusual problem and General International have changed the design - the replacement part does away with the bottle screw arrangement entirely. It's function seems to be really redundant anyway, so why retain a design weakness? The new part is simply a continuous pair of parallel arms.  The hardest part was working out just how much of the saw I had to strip down to provide access to the securing points, and then work out how to actually get at them.  In the end it only took about 2 1/2 hours (and a bit of colourful language) from start of disassembly to completion of the job and a fully functioning scroll saw.  Happy Days!

 

While I was at it, I followed up on some advice from Jim Byrnes regarding some issues I’d been having with the Table Saw - turns out to have been an issue with the blade (I think).  I’d also had an issue with my Byrnes Disc Sander, and once again thanks to Jim’s advice I was able to rectify that problem too.  Still cautious about the overheating, but otherwise it seems to be fine.

 

All in all, a very successful day in the shop, even though no model building was achieved.  Should now be all systems go for next weekend.  

[mobbsie]

That's great news mate, so apart from of a bit of fiddly stuff with the scroll saw all is well.  

 

How did you get over the problem of your disc sander overheating, I should imagine the remedy would be helpful to all disc sander owners no matter what the make.

 

So there will be no stopping you from now on, it's a cautious all systems go. 

 

They don't call it a Rocket for nothing you know, surprising where they turn up. (It does look good though.)  

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[augie]

Nice looking engine!

[Trussben]

Glad you got the scroll saw fixed up man.

 

Ben

[gjdale]

Thanks Mobbsie, Augie and Ben.  Mobbsie - the overheating problem hasn't been solved as such, but I'm keeping an eye on it and if necessary will do my sanding in shorter bursts to avoid the problem.  I figure that the worst case is that I will need to get the motor rewound at some point.

 

Resumption of Play

Testing of Frame Bolts

Jeff’s drawings indicate large bolts/treenails either side of the chocks on the double frames.  The drawings in AOTS show a significant number of additional bolts on these frames. Having seen these additional bolts added on Spanien’s build log on MSB, I decided that I would also add these.  As far as I can tell from the scantling list in AOTS, these bolts would be one inch in diameter. At scale that translates to 0.53mm. Compromising between accuracy and aesthetics, I have chosen to use copper wire of 0.9mm diameter.  I stretched the wire to breaking point to work harden it as well as to straighten it, giving it a final diameter of 0.8mm.  I’ll call that the diameter of the bolt head, not the shaft!  

 

These were inserted into pre-drilled holes in the frames and secured with epoxy.  Once the glue had set, the frames were sanded to remove excess glue and set the bolt heads flush. My dilemma now is whether to leave these as bright copper, or to blacken them (which I think would be a more accurate representation of iron).  I tested this with my Test Frame D1/D2, leaving one side “natural” and the other blackened.  The good thing about using copper in lieu of brass is that copper can be blackened with Liver of Sulphur (LoS), which can be painted on in situ and the excess cleaned off with water, without staining the surrounding timber.  Here’s a few pics of the test pieces.

 

Here is an overall shot of the natural copper bolts:

 

 

And for comparison, an overall shot of the blackened bolts:

 

 

A close-up of the natural copper:

 

 

And a close-up of the blackened bolts:

 

 

I’m leaning towards the blackened bolts, but am not yet decided.  Opinions welcome!

 

Here’s a couple of shots of the test frame in the jig:

 

 

 

All looks good to proceed, so it's back to making frames and fitting chocks - properly this time!

 

[ASAT]

Grant, very nice work, and I know exactly what it took to get you there! I think I prefer the black with the pear wood.... If the wood were lighter like my Anigre or even boxwood I think the bright would be better, but the darker bolts seem to resolve better with the overall look of the darker wood....   Keep placing that bar just that much higher and we all shall have some very nice builds to display!!

 

Lou

[rafine]

If you're counting votes, I'd go with the blackened bolts Grant. I like the look.

 

Bob

[mobbsie]

There's no doubt about it mate, both look good, but black is best.

 

I know it only a test piece but be careful, it looks to me that after sanding on the blackened copper bolts you have some natural copper just showing through.

 

It all sits nicely into your jig mate so yes, you are good to go.

 

Now stop reading this and get back to work.

 

Be Good

 

mobbsie

[alangr4]

 

Have to agree with Mobbsie.

 

Looking very ship-shape

 

Black for me as well. Reckon they were caulked back then which was probably some tar type substance.

[WackoWolf]

My vote is for the black also. Beautiful work either way. It your choice and I am sure no mater which you go with it will come out excellent.

[CaptainSteve]

Allow me to be the dissenting vote that gets drowned out by the majority ... but I actually prefer the shiny look.

 

As this is a cross-section, then wouldn't those bolts have been sheared straight thru (along with the rest of the ship), and thus showing untarnished metal on the interiors ??

 

But, hey, your build Grant, and I'll enjoy watching either way.

Edited December 7, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[Sjors]

Hi Grant,

 

Tricky for the shiny or black bolts .....

I like both ways !

But....you're the Captain !

For me it looks good with what you are doing     

 

 

Sjors

[gjdale]

Thanks Lou, Bob, Mobbsie, Alan, Joe, Steve and Sjors, and all of the "likes".

 

Mobbsie - that's a trick of the light making it appear shiny.  Viewed "flat" all appears well covered.

 

Steve - the bolts are to hold the double frames together, so they aren't sheared through.

 

Overwhelming opinion seems to be to go with black, which was my inclination to start with, so black it shall be.

 

Ran into a bit of a problem with chocks agains this afternoon.  Going back to the drawing board on this one and will try again next weekend.