Hair dryers, or the similar-but-more-lethal hot-air paint strippers, might be a more modern way of bludgeoning our micro-planks into submission, but sorry, I'm just a backwards-looking traditionalist,
Brian I take it then that you do not use scalpels or micro saws or modern glues, but get out the adze or take a spell in the saw pit then split up some treenails, oh and heat up the old glue pot..... I couldn't resist Sir.
One has to accommodate all modes in this wonderful hobby of ours.
Pressing on, after an evening of cutting and testing a variety of width thicknesses and temperatures, I am not sure that a chart would be all that useful.
This is what I discovered though. I used my small clamp fixture to hold the various test pieces.
The smallest being .025" x .085" and largest being .125" x .280" of Castello
The smaller sizes worked well with a setting of 212f
It was better to use the hotter temperatures with the thicker wood. I was able to bend easily .060" x .225" with 300f and very easily with 450f because the nozzle is so focused I was able to hold the wood quite close to the bend area . All of the bends were free formed and let go a few moments after the heat was removed. I had 2 structural failures because I was too aggressive with those bends.
It was easy to char the wood at 400f
The heat gun is very easy to adjust and only takes moments to get to temperature, In my view the tight focus of the heat is the best feature of this tool
Here are a couple of shots of the tests, the five pieces on the left are yellow Cedar from .070" x .450" and .162" x .10"
I would recommend this tool to anyone who needs to do any heat bending or soldering
This was just done with the same hot air, the thin strip of flat stock .007" x .062" joined to a small section of 1/2 round .038" x .020" I placed a small piece of flattened solder between the springy flat piece and the 1/2 round.
Edited by michael mott, 19 November 2016 - 01:57 PM.