Remcohe
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Jan, the bottom of the rudder should be higher than the top of the false keel. Otherwise the false keel (if it comes of when hitting ground) would rip off the rudder in the process. The issue occurred when I marked the hight of the pintles using the pre cut slots on the sternpost. I should have noticed it then Remco- 1,192 replies
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Thanks all for helping me to sort this out. Jan, 0,5 mm copper rod scored with a sharp blade made the screw head. Sorry Grant, no way I can make working screws on this scale So that said, the gudgeons are made, again from brass strip and bar silver soldered together and formed to follow the hull curvature. I'll probably use some castello shims to compensate for the missing hull planking. Some adjustments are still needed before I can bolt the gudgeons permanently to the hull. Somehow gudgeon #5 ended up under the transom planking Remco
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Michael, Thank you very much for your elaborate answer, this is very helpful. I now understand I need to add a few very important steps in my drilling procedure. One being to start using a good center drill to mark the drill points. Remco
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Michael, your metal work is exquisite and a joy to watch. Do you use some sort of sensitive drilling attachment when you use the PCB drills? Mine always break whenever I use them in the mill or drill press and whenever possible I revert to drill small holes by hand (a tedious task.....) Remco
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Looks really wonderful Gil, I love the different shades of colour and with the details added it really comes to live. Remco
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The cross section of your hull planking shows how incredibly good your planking skills are. The joints are perfectly tight though out the thickness of the planks, not an easy task. I forgive you for hiding this nice detail with a perfect stern section Remco
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A long overdue update, be it small is more than one way The tiller hole was repositioned and the hoops were added The pintles are browned, bolted & screwed to the rudder, (okay I simulated the screws.....) Next up the Gudgeons, any ideas how long they need to be? TFFM only shows one, are #2 to #5 all the same length? Remco
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Looking great Ben. I remember how tedious the framing was on my KF and I allowed myself the occasional break to make a sub assembly of some kind for use further down the road. Hang in there you are nearly there. Remco
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She looks wonderful Tony, I really like the contrast of the fully planked hull side next to the bare one. Remco
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This is metalworking of a whole different league..... Splendid work Michael. Remco
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Oh yes, the hooks look much better. Which etching service did you use? Remco
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Interesting detail, and very nicely executed. Remco
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Looks awesome Rusty! Remco
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Good to see your updates again Sir, looking great. Remco
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
Remcohe replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I'd say it looks great! Remco -
Ed I admire how proficient you are with installing the knees. It takes me the better part of an evening to do maybe two, it looks like you did the whole deck in a fraction of that time. Admirable work as always. Remco
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Nice stash of wood, I bet you will really like working with Castello. Remco
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Thank you all for the kind words. For those interested in the soldering board, I purchased it here they also have the pins I use and some hold down clamps I didn't get but made them myself. Beware that the board quickly heats at the bottom so you should place extra heat protection underneath it (yes I found out the hard way and now I have a big burn mark on my bench ) Remco
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
Remcohe replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Clever to clamp the scribing tool Remco
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