gjdale
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Everything posted by gjdale
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Looking good David. -
Congrats on the arrival of your new wood Mike. Looking forward to seeing your new frames.
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
gjdale replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Beautiful carving Albert! -
Hang in there my friend - we're all pulling for you!
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Lovely work Alex!
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Thanks for the good words and all the likes folks. First Frames There are 5 double frames and 12 single frames in this cross section. I decided to start with the foremost frame, which is the double frame D1/D2. Figured this would be a good place to get techniques/methodology sorted out. All frames will be made from 1/4" thick Swiss Pear. The stock is very slightly over-size for thickness. In making the first frames, I chose to leave the stock thickness "as-is" until the frame assembly is complete, and then reduce by passing the completed frames through the thickness sander. I may live to regret that decision, but we'll see how it goes! Prior to cutting these out on the scroll saw, the timber stock was covered with low-tack painters’ tape, and the templates printed on sticky label paper and stuck on top of the tape. This is a tip I picked up from a scroll saw forum - it makes removal of the pattern very easy and there is no sticky residue to clean up afterwards. I have to say, having now tried this method, that it works a treat! In laying out the pattern pieces, care was taken to ensure that the grain ran along the length of each piece (as far as possible). The pieces were cut roughly to shape on the scroll saw, leaving about 3mm all round, and then the final shape was achieved using the Byrnes disc sander for the outside curves, and the oscillating spindle sander for the inside curves. When it came to cutting the scarf joints and keel notches, I experimented with a couple of different methods, including hand saw and chisel, band saw, and using the mill with an end cutter. In the end, I decided that I was over-thinking it, and simply cut these as accurately as I could with the scroll saw, and then cleaned up with a (very sharp) chisel and file where necessary (which to be honest, wasn’t much). The chocks were deliberately left over-size to provide a “handle” for cutting and shaping the “business” end. The bulk of the handle will be cut off prior to assembly and the remainder cleaned up on the spindle sander after assembly. Here are the completed frame pieces cut out and ready for assembly: Glue-up awaits, but if I've missed something important here, now's the time to tell me!
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Another excellent tutorial Chris. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to develop this and share it with us all - especially those of us who are "chromatically challenged".
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Just stunning Remco!
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Excellent work there Marc. Bet you're glad you chose to go down this path now!
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Looking good Mobbsie, Let me know how you go with the drum sander - my offer stands I'm going to have another crack at frame D tonight - I'll post pics on completion.
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Hi Lou, That's some seriously nice work you've done so far! I look forward to following the rest of this build. What a great complementary build to the cross section (or vice versa).
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Very nice planking job Frank, and as others have said, fantastic work with the weathering.
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The chains look great Bob - well done.
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Thanks Mobbsie and Lou. The change in angle was achieved by angling the milling vice on the milling table. This was done by eye, with a bit of trial and error to ensure the cutting bit would track down the line. After I had finished it, I had one of those Blinding Glimpses of the Obvious (BGO), that so often occur with the 20/20 vision of hindsight - I could have used the rotating table that I have for the mill to achieve the same result more accurately and more easily! Oh well.......... Lou - the "gray shims" are a set of parallel bars that I used to ensure the top surface was level and just clear of the top of the vice.
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Hi Aldo, Nice to see you back. I sincerely hope your health condition improves to allow you more time in the shipyard.
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Very nice Rusty - and thanks for the tip on the 6" wide sanding belts for the thickness sander. Might have to investigate that myself.
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One further addition to the building jig before moving on. I added some keel retaining strips and stuck on copies of the frame position indicators for good measure. The Keel Assembly The keel assembly is comprised of four components: Keel, False Keel (Upper), False Keel (Lower) and Hog. The False Keel (Lower) is made from 1/16” thick Ebony, while the remaining pieces are all Swiss Pear. All components are 1/4” thick. The Hog needs to be cut with a series of steps and notches. Both side and top views are provided in the drawings, so I printed these onto sticky label paper to use as templates and then cut the profile using a 1/4” end mill cutter in my Sherline Mill. This was the perfect size for the width of the notches. I was quite pleased with the results. And here are the four pieces ready for assembly: After assembling the four components, I ran them through the thickness sander with a very light pass just to ensure everything was nice and even. The next job was to cut the rabbet, and this is where I ran into the first major hitch. The rabbet is straight, parallel to the keel for about 2/3 of it’s length, where it changes angle slightly and sweeps up moving aft. I cut the rabbet by hand using a very nice V-chisel. The first cut was a very, very light one and the wood peeled off beautifully. Unfortunately, this may have lulled me into a false sense of security, as I may have been a little over-zealous in the end. From this angle it doesn’t look too bad. I might have accepted this ‘as is’, until I looked closely at the second side…… You can see here that I managed to induce quite a wave into the angle part. It’s back to chisel school for me I’m afraid! I thought about this for a while and then decided to try a different approach. Enter the “Secret Weapon” This is 90º V-Groove Router bit with a 1/4” shaft. It fits nicely into a collet on the Sherline Mill. Here is the set-up I used on the mill. And here is the result: I’m much happier with this! The keel assembly was trimmed to length and is now ready for use. Next up, we start playing with frames. Oh goodie - more toys to use!
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No problem Dave - answered in PM.
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Lou, Welcome to the group. If you PM me with your email address, I'll send you a copy of the materials list spreadsheet I worked up, plus a few additional aids. You will need to purchase your own set of plans/drawings, available through the Model Ship Builder (MSB) website: http://modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?135
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