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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Thanks again for the feedback Eberhard, Druxey and Carl. Thanks also to the additional likes; appreciate people looking in. Just to be sure I am not heading off the path; could you please explain what a 'glaze' is please? My initial thoughts were of a thinned lacquer/varnish but this is probably wrong? I was going to colour this with the same stain I used on the wood. Eberhard, WRT to the brass badges/plates on the rim of the wheel, a friend is going to help me experiment with PE this from a very thin brass plate (shim) as a complete circle connected via very thin fret which will be cut away once placed - worth a try I think? If this works we hope to do a ;ace-like etch of the outline of the carvings to glue to the standard - if the PE is thin enough we hope this may give the impression of a carving (at that scale) when painted - can only hope? cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    I hope all is well John? She'll still be there when you are ready to progress. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Hi again Eberhard and very many thanks yet again for your great ideas. The wheel was indeed specified (and reported) as being mahogany so going with a solid colour and decals is a great idea. Now to find a decal maker - or more likely, I'll have a go myself at making the decals Victoria's wheel was specified as 'double' but all evidence points to it being single (as evidenced in the photo also). When I was looking I found a 3D product on Shapeways you may consider if your idea doesn't work out for you - have a look at the double wheel on this page as an example https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey?section=1%2F72+Ships&s=0 That said, having witnessed what you achieve in that micro-mill and lathes of yours I am sure you will work something out. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Those funnels look like they have been there the whole time - nice repair work. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Thanks for looking in Denis, Eberhard and Druxey, and for all the likes. Thanks for the tips on faux-wood; much appreciate those. I will investigate the book and online and practice on some scrap to get something I like. The wheel had brass badges/small plates on it possibly on the rim joints? Not sure how to emulate these yet but will try a couple of ideas I have on the scrap as suggested. I have also not done the carving of a kangaroo and emu that was on the lower curved section of the fore standard. At this scale I think I would have no chance as I have not done any carving at all, and I do not want to ruin what I have done. Helmsman HMCSS Victoria (resized).tif If you look closely at the attached cropped image showing the wheel, you can see the brass plates I refer to. The only info I have of the carving is that of a description stating that there was a carving of these on the standard but nothing else. As this design was the forerunner of our national crest I am 'assuming' (I know dangerous) that there would have been a shield also. I base this on the fact that a shield is shown on the bows of the boats in the profile photo of the 'Victoria', and if a shield was placed there, it possibly was included on the standard (see attached). cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Hi Michael, I have tried Vallejo primer also but resorted to Tamiya rattle/spray can for most jobs. The Vallejo primers work okay on some surfaces but the trick is to really let them cure (I have found more than 48 hours) but if you scratch it you will find it hard to sand/fair the edges as it wants to peel off. I also found it does not like brass (PE or other). The Vallejo paints though are generally very good. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    That is a great idea Eberhard; many thanks. So obvious - that is why you are the machinist and me, well .... let's just say I am still learning. All I need to do is find one with a reasonable jaw mouth to provide a relatively useful amount of 'travel'. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Another small update folks; I have been trying to get a 'decent' ship's wheel done. At 1:72, Victoria's wheel is just shy of 12mm. I had a go (several times) at making one myself but at this size I simply couldn't achieve a decent wheel so I opted for an 'after-market' brass wheel (14mm - slightly oversize but I will have to live with that). It looks great but I have yet to find a way to make it look like a wood wheel. Current idea is to chemically blacken it then spray paint it a lighter tan then dry brush with a darker tan? The wheel was purchased separate and I soldered a drum to it. The standards look a lot better in real life than they show here with shadows and the wood grain making them look crooked and/or uneven. they actually sit flush and are pretty even. The rudder telltale on the fore-standard is a 2mm brass tube cut off at 0.6 mm. I printed a 'card with indicator' (1.5mm) then filled the tube with 'liquid glass' (two part). It still needs a little cleaning and a polish but the effect is there. The assembly is only dry fitted at the moment. the grating are the 'foot plates that are there for the helmsman (one either side) Along the way I got a little distracted. A mate came over a couple of days ago and he showed me some planking clamps he had purchased, and I thought I could make some. the resulting product is shown - only took a day to make 20 of these from some "turkish box" and some M3 (3mm metric) bolts and wingnuts. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Welcome back to the fray Michael; great to see you back. The funnel looks great. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    The model will still be there when you are ready to restart Russ - it only took me 14 years for my Endeavour build cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    MAGNIFICENT model Karl - a joy to view this build log. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Hi Eberhard and thanks for the feedback. I don't use the Zyliss for any 'real' precision work but rather as a woodworking and general purpose tool. As with the intended insert/tail vise, the size of my workshop precludes fitting larger more specific vises so I find the Zyliss very flexible, and being the non-chinese production version, also very strong and is well suited to a multitude of general wood-working and other holding tasks in and outside of the workshop - great when I travel to my son's place to help with his renovations. For model-related work, it assists in holding larger items for shaping etc where I do not need to get close to the jaws with the shaping tool. As to the insert vise, I think you may have misinterpreted, or I may have not have clearly stated the purpose of this - by flush mount I mean the operating mechanism but not the jaw itself is flush to the top of the table/benchtop. Again it is intended for general (non-precision) woodworking tasks. The types of 'tail vises' I have seen all mount flush with the bench top (with a protruding jaw) but need to be mounted on the tail of the bench for access to the winding mechanism such as shown below. What I want to achieve is a similar result but being able to operate the drive from the top - I hope that makes sense? The vise is then the moving part and the bench pup/dog becomes the fixed part of the 'jaws' for holding work for planing etc. I wish to mount this in the workbench top but not at the end of the bench (as I don't have access to this) and, as a result I therefore need to operate the mechanism from the top rather than with a wheel or handle. many thanks Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Hey Greg, any chance of slowing down - I am getting dizzy trying to keep up with your builds This looks like a great project and you are certainly off to a really good start. Your research in your quest for accuracy will result in a great model of her. No room in the rafters so i'll take a pew in the foyer (better access to the popcorn out there :)) cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Hi Bob, that 'speed knob' sounds very interesting - I have a Zyliss and find the crank handle cumbersome also. Any chance of posting a picture and if you could please advise the materials you used? I think I understand the concept of your adaption/device but a pic to confirm would be much appreciated. For all - i am also looking at some way to convert a inset tail vise (set into and flush with the top of the bench) so that I can adjust it from the top as I cannot access the end of my bench. I wish to use it in conjunction with some bench pups/dogs but all the tail vises I have found all require you to crank the handle from the end of the bench rather from the top using a crank handle inserted into a receiver much like the lifting mechanism for a router. Any suggestions most welcomed cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Nice work Danny, some great detail in those guns. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Ah, my day is complete (well almost) - have been missing your updates Ed. She is really taking shape now and as always your finishes and build quality are of the highest quality. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Your research effort and commitment to authenticity is commendable Steven. The model detail is looking good! cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Great progress and glad to hear you are having a lot of fun with the build. looks great! cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    No problem Casper; glad the book helped. The bowers were definitely in the 'bows'; some ships had two different sizes with the larger or 'best' bower to the stbd side I think. In Endeavour though, I think they were both the same size. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    I use a metal wall strip purchased from my local office wares supplier (OfficeWorks here in Australia) that has a mechanism that allows several sheets/plans etc to be held. It is only about an inch (25mm) in height and only protrudes out about 10mm out from the wall - it attaches to the wall with screws or 2-sided tape. Works a treat for me with minimal impact on roomspace etc. but still handy to view. Only problem I have experienced is that sometimes when removing one sheet, others may come out with it also; but, they are very easy to put back into the holder - just slide the top edge of the sheet/plan/ picture up and it grips, swing the sheet/plan out to about 75 degrees from the wall and it comes out easily. You can make it out hanging on the wall to the left in the photo. Cannot recall what it is actually called - sorry. May come up under paper display strip or the like? cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi Caz, drawings/sketches of their locations may exist but I have not seen them; someone like Shipaholic may be able to better inform you with the research he has done. That sid, I believe the general practice, of the time, was to stow (lash down) the 'stream' anchor on the starboard main channel and the kedge on the port mizzen channel. I cannot provide a reference at this stage but have read it somewhere and I stand ready to be corrected cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    A great find for you and a very interesting maritime connection for your family. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Thanks Dave; practice makes perfect they say so I'll have to do about another 6 or so yet cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    I would not know for sure Steven, but your logic is sound for placement in the bulge at the top. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    You seem to be mastering that 'death star' Mark; nice result. cheers Pat

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