druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Good point, Dick. -
In a word, gruesome! My sympathy to you, Dan, for taking the project on.
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I use a very well sharpened 4H lead in a mechanical pencil. Thanks for your kind compliment. As for "Do I paint? Don't I paint?", I have one suggested solution. Build two models! The stern looks like it's shaping up well, Mark. I like your micro-adjustable support.
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
druxey replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Absolutely stunning, Doris.- 881 replies
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- royal caroline
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Thanks for your response, Dick. Your lovely model has certainly generated good discussion and thought! As for medieval rigging, good luck with that. I'm currently trying to sort out rigging from as 'late' as 1600, and that's tough enough.
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Dear Dick, Thank you for responding to my query. I agree that there are dark beam-end like squares shown in the Trombetta illustration. My (perhaps uninformed) impression is that these are small blocks of wood, perhaps nailed on, wedged between the heavier wale strakes. This may produce more longitudinal strength without adding too much weight. The deck beam ends shown on the topsides do not all follow the sheer of the ship, whereas the 'blocks' do, all the way forward and aft. Your theory may well be correct, though. This is yet another place where I'd love to have a time machine!
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Beautifully executed metalwork!
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Your project is a fascinating one, Woodrat. Kudos to you for your reconstruction and interpretation. One point, though: while the deck above the waterline would reasonably have the deck beams protruding through the sides, I am puzzled by the beams below water coming through: surely it would be impossible to keep the joints watertight with the working of the ship. Or do you know something I'm missing here?
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This should be compulsory reading for everyone's health! Thank you for bringing the subject up again, Gaetan. Bonne nouvelle annee!
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- le fleuron
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Off to a promising start! Very neat scarphing.
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Getting those carlings to run smoothly is tricky. I use a flexible batten on the beams to mark out the run of them before cutting them in. You might try that. The example here is of the fire ship Comet of 1783.
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That is first-rate work, Mark. Lovely! A happy New Year to you also.
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La Venus- stern decoration
druxey replied to RKurczewski's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Nicely rendered! -
'Well' done on the pump rhodings, Gary!
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Chuck is absolutely correct in his assessment.
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Neatly done, Ma'am!
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Both lime and basswood are rather soft, basswood more so. It would be more economic for you to use lime as you live in the U.K. You would have to handle this carefully as its soft qualities (as opposed to, say, maple or pear) mean it won't keep such crisp edges and corners. If you can still obtain unsteamed pear in Britain, I'd recommend that. I've used it in the past. It is much lighter in colour and not pinkish-brown, unlike the steamed or so-called 'Swiss' pear wood.
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
druxey replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
You're back!!! And how. This miniature interior work is exquisite, Doris.- 881 replies
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Lovely work, Gianpiero!
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You are making good progress there, Albert. Very nicely done so far! -
You are indeed a fortunate fellow, Jim! While I don't own a copy, I have seen this tome. It appears to show the ship's restoration and only fairly reflects her state at that time. It does not show the ship 'as built' or in her various other intermediate appearances. I understand that some of the features of her restoration have since been queried or disproved. That said, it appears to be an excellent and exhaustive document on her 20th century restoration.
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Woodrat is quite correct in his translation, Brian. it does mean 'big belly' or 'fat belly'!
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All the more reason not to use ebony in model work! (As if there weren't enough reasons already!)
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Merry Christmas and beautifully done, Gary. I'm sure that the maple will 'settle down' visually as the air oxidizes the surface over time. Fresh cut wood always seems so bright. Look at the fresh cut surface of any wood and compare it to the outer side that was sitting in the shop to get the comparison.
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Michael: you would need to maintain the geometry of the points in order for the calibration to remain accurate. Elia: the rack and pinion move the pivot unit, so that it adjusts the proportionality. If you need to re-calibrate the instrument, you would need to loosen and slide the points - a fiddly task to avoid doing, if possible! As a P.S., I've only ever seen one other set with this cranked style of point, so assume that they are rare. And, as I noted before, I seldom use them; so they remain fairly pristine!
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