mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Good looking masts, Sam. So Murphy is hounding you also....? P.S. I loved the campground photos.
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Ok.. I think I understand it. I was just thinking if the linkage could be done under the deck, let the rigging above deck just be a dummy. I do hope you can get it sorted. I want to see a video of her sailing.
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Sjors, I agree with E.J. Go with a light wood as it will be dark enough on that second deck when you put on the third one.
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It's safe to say we have faith in your abilities, Ulises. I too am not sure about aluminum.. styrene or wood maybe?
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
There is more than one stubborn builder here? I'm shocked. Shocked I tell you! That looks like a great solution to the problem, Nenad.- 4,152 replies
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I saw them on Amazon. Does Amazon ship to you? Here's the main search that I used. Just sort through for the size and grit you want (easiest way is the column on the left). https://www.amazon.com/Power-Sander-PSA-Discs/b?ie=UTF8&node=256178011
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I quite agree with Brian, John. Leave the photos as they will help someone. Looking pretty good. How does it look from dead astern and dead foreward? Down low I should add. Spiling isn't a bad thing. It can get a bit tedious but once you get into the rhythm, it flows well. I had to spile just about every strake on my current build.
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Well done, Russ. He does look happy.. and he should.
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I hope you get it sorted, Jerry. No way to do a direct linkage to the rudder itself, maybe a quadrant gear setup?
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They do make disks for the sanders in "standard" (for some value of "standard") sizes with come with sticky back on them. I use them not just for my disk sander but also when making sanding sticks, etc. Here in the States I get them at the local hardware/lumber/home improvement store but I have seen them online. A variety of grits and types of grit seem to be available for reasonable money.
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Jud, On the angles... the hawse holes were not typically parallel to the water or decks. There is an angle downward from inside to outside which seems to have varied depending on country, shipyard, etc. The hawse holes were also lined with lead to ease on the chaffing and wear and tear on the ship and the cable. And lastly, somewhere I read that in hoisting the anchor, there was some greasing of the hawse holes/cable... but I'm sure how common that was. It may have been anecdotal for one incident. When I remember where I read it, I'll dig it out.
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Al, Don't feel bad. I tend to overthink too much also. Here's to us "over thinkers". On the glass... I think I spent like $15 total on the two pieces.
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Chuck, I'd say play to your strengths. You design beautiful kits with a history. Instructions that are second to none. There's options on purchasing (that's a big plus) such that if the buyer wants better wood, they can get what they need from you and "good wood" from elsewhere. This saves the buyer some cash on the kit. Options on the fittings. You're already basically allowing your customers to "roll their own prices". You have range of kits in work or available. I take it that Winchelsea is next? From what I see, you're doing right by your customers.
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I did a quick search using iPhone and this seems to be the problem.. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12173-photos-upload-and-are-upside-down-how-to-fix And here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1641-posted-pictures-upside-down It's an Apple issue but there are fixes and those two posts have some possible solutions.
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Go look in here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/47-questionsinstructions-on-how-to-use-and-post-to-this-forumsite-problems-or-suggestions/ I think this has been brought up before. Are you using a iPad?
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Hmm... plank length.. Hull... closer to 32-36 foot depending....at the time of Revenge, there was still a lot of old, tall oaks in Blighty. Decks.. 20-25... But you can go with one full length strip instead of scale length. Modeler's choice.
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THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
mtaylor replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Just immaculate, Karl. -
Al, I know there's other ways of doing it, but that's the one that's working for me. You might have to look through the logs, possibly the very first ones that were re-posts after the crash (EweK's and Scottucus) and some of the others like Rusty's, zLed', Rafine's and others and see how they did it.
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Jud, Have look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2700-modeling-shipboard-equipment-a-capstan-based-on-hms-victorys/?hl=%2Bcapstan+%2Bmessenger#entry76875 Particularly post #5. Dafi has done a lot research on this.
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Here's what I did and used basically the same method on my Licorne. I have 2 pieces of 1/4" thick glass that are 12 X 12. Lay one down and edge glue the first layer of frames. Do be sure to tape the frame assembly to the underside of the glass or lay it on top and cover with plastic wrap so the frame doesn't stick to it. I put glue on the edges, let it get tacky and then stick them together and put the other glass piece on top. About 30 minutes later, add another futtock. Once the first layer is done, add the second layer (let the glue get tacky first) and then put the glass on and let it cure out. I'm sure others have different methods but that worked for me. I think one of the builders did the treenails as they were building but for that, you'd start with the keel pieces and work your way up.
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