mtaylor

It still doesn't look like card, Clare. She looks pretty perfect to me.

Congratulations on finishing and the sweet work on her, Jack. The decals don't look like decals . I like your sense of history for this ship, it just seems be the frosting on the cake.

Unless the shot (grape? canister?) hit something solid, there would damage to the ropes at least by the muzzle blast. I'm thinking some of the forward firing guns across the head would have been last ditch defense as opposed to chase guns. Maybe the higher up would be used for the chase?

You're research is both meticulous and over the top. And then applying to the model. Fantastic work, Daniel.

It was actually made out of 3 pieces of wood, Paul. The main piece was oak and the other two were pine. I'm planning scribing the lines in as they're straight and not tabled like the English ships. Unfortunately, I don't have anymore of the original boxwood that used when I cut the blank otherwise, I would re-cut. What I do have is noticeably different so... for eye-appeal, I'll go with what I have.

Just one impressive boat you have going there. I'd love to be shrunk down and take her out on the lake.

The deck planking is looking great. That is an interesting pattern they used and you're matching it.

A #11 blade and some bits....? Wow!!!!

I love your wheel, Nenad. I'm also deeply saddened by the loss of your mother-in-law. I know what she meant to you. Take the time you need, my friend.

Congratulations on a beautiful ship, Matti. Very nicely done.

Thanks for the "likes" and comments. When I laid the keel, I also cut the stem, the stern post, and the rudder from the same chunk of wood. I've been busy with other things recently, but did spend a lot of time researching the rudder and sorting things out. I found that many of my assumptions and some of what is on the plans wrong. Here's what I've found (including from those responding to a post on this)... 1) As built in 1755, there's minimal vertical taper. It wasn't common to do this, but not uncommon either. Which makes me wonder that maybe it was a shipyard decision. The rudder follows this. 2) There is no fore and aft taper to the rudder. That one caught me by surprise. 3) There is a cavitation/turbulence groove. This would have been added when the ship was rebuilt/overhauled at some point later in time. It would have been present in 1778 when captured. 4) The fore side of the rudder was beveled at about a 45 degree angle. The pintle and cudgeon<SP?> straps were recessed only at the fore side of the rudder and at the aft side of the sternpost where the straps bend to the side. They were recessed as on some other nation's ships. 5) No spectacle plate. There's an eyebolt with rings on each side just above the strop hole for the emergency steering. The strop hole is nominally rigged to two eyebolts. So.. I machined the rudder blank as shown in the pictures below. There's two mortises in the top of the rudder, one for the normal tiller (which on Licorne is in the Great Room) and one for the emergency tiller which is on the quarterdeck. I'm off and running with the metalwork. I've started silver soldering and wondered why I didn't do this years ago. It's pretty fast and gives a nice result.

There's also fabric glue available at some arts/crafts stores and many yard goods (sewing) type shops. Also matte varnish works well.

Timing and Headspace Gages????? Did he have a time machine in his room?

CRG, Copy the URL and paste it into Google Translate. It should translate the whole page. Most browsers now allow a plug-in for Google Translate so a right-click and pick "translate page" is available.

Steve, I think Chuck did his rope early on using that one... and motorized it. I could be wrong on that....

I guess we all have to be patient, Steve. One cannot rush a master builder.

NIce..... back on the bench. How you can keep these projects separated and your parts inventory up is beyond me. And on top ot it, all the projects look great.

Impressive work, Denis. The ladder by itself is a miniature work of art.

That's not a beast, Dave. It's a thing of beauty... And that's excellent news from the Doc.

Keep a bucket of coal handy, Dan. Those close-ups and bigger pics really do your work justice. It looks great.

I've used the Amati and it seems nice for "store-bought" line. Chuck makes great rope at a decent price, IMO. I'm hoping to fire up the ropewalk for my build and see if I can get close. As for ropewalks.. there's previously mentioned Domanoff and they Byrnes. I think ME also does one but it's hand-powered and wood.

At 1:100 there's a loss of details and the parts are correspondingly tinier. Much tinier, IMO. However, there are companies making aftermarket parts for that scale and smaller sizes in PE. The parts are still tiny, but the detail level just jumps out at you.

Mike, The VictoryModels part of Amati is a rather new thing. I'm not sure if it's just name or maybe an actual division. So yes, being part of Amati makes them a "big name". What I'm seeing is that the little guys, the newcomers, etc. are excellent in kits and support. ME still does great support, though... the others, very mixed. There are some MasterKorbel Korbel (I'm not sure of the name actually as I've seen it both ways) in the kit area. They have some interesting build methods.

The finish looks pretty good, Jack. I don't see defects...

If we look at ships of the line from that period, many of them have guns pointing in strange ways. Sovereign of the Seas as cannons pointing in all directions including at itself.