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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    Clarification as Kevin brought up a good point. I've heard it said that we are two countries separated by a common language. I think, lining is only done on POB models as there aren't enough frames. If one looks at the fully framed and the real thing, the sills and the frames provide the port linings. Usually, the ship was framed and the ports cut while in frame. They would plank her and then cut or at least finish fit the planking around the ports.
  2. mtaylor
    Ah.... ok.. No offense taken. I think I answered rightly then. No lids, no rebates, no frames.
  3. mtaylor
    Thank you for the nice comments, Pete, Michael, Mij Good question, Kevin. I'm not sure on either point. As built, she had lids and the appropriate rebates. At the time of her capture and after a major rework, I can find no sign of lids. There are sills, but again, no indication of linings as kits have them. The frame is the side linings. I'm not sure "rough" would describe the ports.. they'll be filed/sanded smooth as will the sills. The internal and external planking will be to the opening and smooth. Things are still pretty roughed in at this point with more work coming once all the frames are in place.
  4. mtaylor
    Looks fantastic in the sun with her ports hanging down like that. Bravo on the milestone!!! I suppose you'll need to make a wheeled cart to move from here on out?
  5. mtaylor
    Ah... first one here so I can pick my seat... er... chair.
  6. mtaylor
    I'm assuming that bloodshed was minimal and a great time was had??? So much talent in one place...
  7. mtaylor
    I guess the only question is will it be 3 coats or 10????
  8. mtaylor
    I agree with Augie on this. We know you too well....
  9. mtaylor
    I think I'll pull up a chair in the front row.. This should be an interesting build.
  10. mtaylor
    Sheesh.. that's incredible. As for not a "real ship n the bottle"... picky, picky, picky. Put a cork in it and you will have a shipbuilder in a bottle.
  11. mtaylor
    Excellent tutorial, Nigel. Thanks!
  12. mtaylor
    Well...if you have a niche market... your price point is whatever the market will bear. Now I think your $1200 is list price so one would have to wait for a sale. It's still a shame that they've gone up so much. Even wood for scratch building is getting spendy.
  13. mtaylor
    Beautiful work on her and the rework of the lanyards should make you very proud. That was a major undertaking.
  14. mtaylor
    Daniel, A stunning achievement. The water and sails give it a unique character. A pity one can't bottle a 1:64 size ship....
  15. mtaylor
    Impressive and that goes off the charts when one realizes the size...
  16. mtaylor
    Only 5 months? Crikey.. and a beautiful ship to boot. Hmm... I guess it'll take about an hour for the figurehead? Ok... seriously.. it's only wood. Make some sawdust, or in this case, carving dust. If it's not right.. do it again. We have confidence in you.
  17. mtaylor
    Well... there's inflation, rising transportation costs and various "green" initiatives that have made wood more expensive. From where I sit, everything is more expensive.
  18. mtaylor
    Thanks for the "likes" and comments. Sam, On Licorne, they are 1/2 the frame thickness. Other ships... not going to vouch for them. I have some other Hahn plans which when I dig them out of the dark recesses of my storage area, I'll check.
  19. mtaylor
    Pops, Been there, done that, have the pile of firewood. While you're waiting, give some thought to removing the thwarts and adjusting the risers. The biggest obstacle would be glue type. I hate to see you bagging this model as you've learned a lot on it and were doing a great job. Someone around here once said: "It's only wood... it can be fixed."
  20. mtaylor
    Looks very good, David. Congratulations on a well-done build.
  21. mtaylor
    Sweet looking coppering, Nenad. You are flying along quite nicely on this part.
  22. mtaylor
    There's some articles here on LED setups: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-furniture-and-deck-fittings.php
  23. mtaylor
    I mentioned above about how I cut gunports. So here's how I do it. I make no guarantees that it's the best way but it works for me. First up is a laminated frame blank (I'm using a half frame as the full frames are done). I then rubber cement the frame plan to it and carefully cut it out. I fit the frame into position and check all the reference points both against the plans and in situ using the EdT tool. After that, the reference points are etched using the scroll saw and the frame cuts are made with the saw pictured. I soak the joint in 91% isopropyl and wrap in a scarp of paper towel which is also soaked in the isopropyl. The joint is then wrapped in plastic wrap and secured at each end with clothes pins (pegs) so as not let the whole frame separate. After doing something else for about a half an hour, I grab the frame with pliers and piece to be removed with a pair of cutters. A slight pull and the piece comes out, usually cleanly. At this point, the frame is glued into place, space blocks added between the newly installed frame and the existing frame, everything clamped and the glue allowed to cure. After curing, I double check all reference points, just in case.... I hope this helps someone.
  24. mtaylor
    Go for the bamboo, Dave. It looks great! You got me thinking about ripping up one my cutting boards, but the Admiral would be really irritated as the one in kitchen is a lot larger than one I have.
  25. mtaylor
    I simply put the plank in a vise (between two long piece of scrap wood) and sand using a very long sanding stick held at the proper angle. I'm afraid that with a power tool, I take too much off the plank.

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