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mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Sorry I missed the hotel fun.. but they have microwaves. Soak the wood for a bit and then wrap it in a wet paper towel. Nuke it for 30 seconds (timing may vary) an bend away. Hold until the bend is set. I've done more than few planks this way while away from home.
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Meredith, There in is a big problem, especially when we talk power tools on a world wide forum. Shipping, customs, even ability to pay via credit card, etc. are just the surface issues. Power conversion is often not thought about. Some use 50 Hz, other use 60 Hz. The mains voltages are different. A transformer might work, but ultimately it can cause problems with the frequency is different. A US designed motor is for 60 Hz. At 50 Hz it will run slower and often hotter due to loading, etc. Go the other way, and the motor runs faster and can have mechanical issues as it will spin above the design rating.
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Richard, At best, whatever you do below decks would have to be considered an educated guess or a reconstruction. As I recall, there wasn't much available when these plans were laid out. I think you're on the right track using the TFFM books. Other sources might be some of the AOTS books for frigates of the period. At least you'll have a good idea of where put the cabins, storerooms, etc.
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As I recall, Peter was on MSW 1.0 and did some build log work on one of their models to get some feedback. I wonder if he's here on MSW 2.0?
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Love it!!!! We'll clean this part up later so the links have prominence.
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Matt, I think the teak might have too much grain for the planking. Test it next to the Jarrah. Go with the one you like best.
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Post the links here... if we get more than few, we'll pin the topic. Plastic hints and tips only please. Might just remove the "painting" from the title however.
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Joss, We're all addicted to our tools, our books, and even our wood.... It goes with the territory. :D
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Dr. Per, What Russ said would be the way to go. When double planking, putting the keel on after sanding (and carefull grooving, etc.) simulates the rabbet and not very well either. I've done two AL kits and wasn't real happy with that result. Luckily, I realized the problem after the garboard plank and was able to fix it.
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Piet, Your picture where it has the "K' designation. You said the "K"s were changed to "O"s in 1938. In my mind, that says that cutters were there from the beginning.
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Very well said, Augie. I hope everyone will read this.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
sudomekh, http://translate.google.com/ -
Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
sudomekh, Please use English only as this an English Only forum. Пожалуйста, используйте только на английском языке, так как это только на английском форуме. -
Rob, Not worry about where the log ends up every few days. It's the nature of this forum and the number of logs being updated. There's times when I don't read MSW for days at a time and the unread list is 6-7 pages long. When you update, it will rise to the top.
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Rob, In addition to varnish, I'd lay on several coats of a good paste wax. Or as Druxey said: cling film. I've seen them both ways here on MSW. I think Karl's "explosion" back on MSW 1.0 gave the builders a lot to think about on mold release.
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ebonizing boxwood
mtaylor replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
By the way, there's also this topic which has info about ebonizing: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3696-what-woods-do-you-prefer-to-use/ -
ebonizing boxwood
mtaylor replied to Kurt Johnson's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
If you've ever seen a piano that's more than about 25 years old, the black keys were probably ebony. Also, many guitars have it on the fretboard. (I think that's the term for it) It's a beautiful wood when finished but a real pain to work with. -
Bob, Just curious here... we buy our wood usually from "local" sources. By that, I mean places that sell the wood to consumers such as Woodcraft, Hobby Mill, The Lumberyard, etc. We generally have no way of knowing where this wood came from. In the Gibson case, they were directly importing it. I guess I'm not sure how this would apply to those of us at the end of the food chain since I'm not a lawyer.
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I'm going to pause this log while I clean it up. If you lose some post count, I apologize. I'm basically only removing the off-topic stuff that I generated and the responses to it as well as some of the early stuff when we came back on line. I hope you understand.
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Nicely painted Zyxuz. Just curious... on the blotchy paint you were unhappy with, did you use a sanding sealer first?
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Nice capstan work, Ron.
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Sam, I like the way you are approaching this. Your last pic looks good on the seizing/knotting. As for the fuzzies... beeswax: run the line through the wax and then either work it with your fingers into the thread or move it over a light bulb to melt the wax into the line. OR Diluted PVA.. paint it with a 50-50 mix of PVA and water. Run your fingers to get it into the line to soak it in.
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I think life got in the way. He had a similar log on DDM and also here MSW 1.0 where he was a moderator. Look for his id as "Gerald Spargo" here on MSW. Maybe an email will get you an answer.
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