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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Using Blacken-IT
mtaylor replied to fnkershner's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Floyd, Harvey gave the most comprehensive description I've seen. The only thing I would add is that after acetone, soak the part in vinegar for about 15 to 30 minutes to get some "tooth" into the brass. Also, rinse with distilled water. Lightly buff when dry. I get inconsistant results no matter how consistant I am with preparation and using the product. Could be I'm using different types of brass but I'm not sure. -
After a quick search in the build log area, I see 3 builds going on. If no one answers here, go take a look a the build logs. You can ask questions of the builders there also.
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HMS Pandora 1779 in 3D
mtaylor replied to ppddry's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Jingyang, Your CAD work just takes my breath away. Incredible details, just incredible. Thanks for sharing them. -
MicroMark MicroMill - Review
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Janos, You are probably correct. The strange thing is Sherline, etc. all call their devices "mills" and all have <3000 rpm from the factory. Strange indeed. Wefalck, That's true and the big reason I had to increase the spindle speed. -
Lovely work on the rigging, Gil. I like the way you're taking us through it.
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- finished
- caldercraft
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Thanks Keith. It was tight in there, no doubt. My Licorne is even tighter... 4 foot from deck to deck on the berth deck. 3 foot if add in the beams. As for finishing it.. it's done. I gave it to my late father-in-law at this point in the construction and he had it about a year and half, maybe a bit more. After he passed, the Trition came home and I decided leave it as is.
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NIce Sarah... very nice jig indeed. Mind if I steal that idea?
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- harriet lane
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I've had poutine. It's interesting food. Sticks to the ribs, filling, and leaves you with a "I could eat a lot more of that" feeling. Keith, you'd probably like it. Here's a couple of links: (warning.. the wikipedia link has a pictue. http://members.shaw.ca/kcic1/poutine.html http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poutine The link with the picture is for Sjors since he likes pictures... :)
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Cross-section by russ - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
mtaylor replied to russ's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Russ, It's a very appealing model. The pictures give a sense of something from another era. And it's not a bad sense in my opinion. I rather like it.- 69 replies
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- frigate
- cross-section
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Mobbsie, Here's the secret. You only have to do one ratline and one copper plate. Then repeat as needed.
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yep... but you can only eat it if you wear flannel and can sing "I'm a Lumberjack and I'm OK". I think I'll go step outside now where I have a better chance of ducking flying chainsaws.
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MicroMark MicroMill - Review
mtaylor replied to mtaylor's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
JP... I didn't mention it because for my needs it's even smaller than the mill I have. I would still go for a bigger (physically) model of mill. The Proxxon seems to only come in 220/240 VAC, the motor is not rated as high as the Micromark. The X-Y Table is smaller. Your needs may vary and the smaller might work. Thus, I only mentioned what "I" would go for. -
Hmm.. Augie and Sjors... in the same river. Sjors with a fly rod, Augie with a Fokker. The mental image is too much. I gotta' get a grip.
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- syren
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So you skipped using TACAN then? Maybe we should just go back to Dead Reckoning... would make life interesting with smart bombs for a payload.
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- maine lobster boat
- Midwest Products
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The concept of "fooling the enemy" worked. HMS Roebuck was a two deck 44 gun frigate. In the stern, there were two rows of windows. The lower went to the great cabin. The upper rows center was the poop decks beams. They were dummies. The ruse worked as she captured the Confederacy and a couple of other ships this way as they mistook her for a larger ship.
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Jason, I'm just catching up.. on the false keel.. it wouldn't have been like you have it. It would have been what could best be called a slip joint. The false was stapled and at the joints, the cut would been at an angle. See my crude drawing below. The reason being that if the ship grounded, the false keep pieces would have come off and slid over the one behind it easily. ----------------------------------------- keel ----------------------------------------- bow \ stern ----------------------------------------- Anyway, rather than rip your work apart, leave that way and save yourself some grief. She's looking very sharp!!!
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- snake
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The nice thing about this build log is that it is a smorgasbord, we never walk away hungry.. well maybe for pictures.. <hint><hint> Sjors, you have the right idea... come to the US for the views, not the food. Well, there is good food along the way, the views are fantastic. I live about 60 miles from Crater Lake and I try to visit it once a year just for the view and the wonderful drive to get there.
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Santa Maria kit - Novice question-but that's how we learn
mtaylor replied to lmgoldstein's topic in Wood ship model kits
The decks had curvature to them in two directions, high at the bow and stern and also high in the middle a low at the sides. This was so water would run off. In many ways, it resembles camber on a road. Depending on the era some of this curvature could be pretty extreme. Hope this explanation helps.
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