Jim Byrnes Model Machines

[cabrapente]

Chuck S - ahora soy el orgulloso propietario de todas las máquinas de Jim. En un momento yo no estaba seguro de que tenía un uso para el Espesor Sander. Ahora me pregunto cómo era eso. Yo lo uso mucho.

 

Cabrapente - La lijadora de espesor tiene una rueda de ajuste que es muy fácil de usar. Está marcada en las marcas de graduación y yo no sé si estas marcas son separados en distancias ingleses o métricas. Cuando utilizo la herramienta. Todo lo que hago es insertar la pieza de madera que estoy lijado y ajustar la rueda hasta que la madera quede firme. Luego de pasar la madera a través de la lijadora. Luego apriete el ajuste por un par de marcas de graduación y pasar la madera de nuevo. Luego utilizo mi micrómetro para medir el espesor. Si yo no tengo el espesor deseado que apretar y pasarlo a través de nuevo. Es bastante sencillo.

Hello Floyd.

I also think that is an easy machine to use.

I think the buy, even if it comes in Chinese. hehe.

I just think that to manufacture the machines tuned, it is easy to put the measures once, and serve for many years without using translator.

greeting one cabrapente

Edited July 13, 2014 by cabrapente

[Chuck Seiler]

I see that it has two 3" drums.  Could it handle a wider piece of wood if you used the same grit sandpaper on both drums?

[jimbyr]

It actually has one 2.47 x  6.05 wide drum.  If you want to sand wide stock put a 6" wide piece of abrasive all the way across

 

Jim

[fnkershner]

Gee Jim why didn't I think of that. Thanks for the info.

[Nirvana]

Jim,

Thanks for that update, I thought we had to use two of the same grit but had to deal with the center that doesn't have any coverage.

[Chuck Seiler]

That's why he gets the big bucks.

 

When is the featherboard coming out?

Edited July 14, 2014 by Chuck Seiler

[janet bode]

Hi Jim&Donna.

      

             Further to suggestions i would love to own a very well made drilling machine,i bought a certain drill press still advertised it was a waste of money,it is made in USA

I t was made of aly and was just an aluminium bed plate with 1/2" rods sticking up to support your Dremel or whatever you have it was very crudely made and i think the designer

did not have much knowledge of what they were trying to sell.Anyway beware it is rubbish.

 

                                 Janet B    (MSW)

[flying_dutchman2]

I am the intermediate builder and have the beginner's tools, Skil scroll saw, Alwin belt and disc sander from MicroMark and used drill press from Dremel. I does what I need to do. I never thought I would say this, but the more I read about it and look at other table saws, I like the Byrnes the best. You get what you pay for and that is excellence.

I know what I wrote in other threads about the price of these machines, but a person changes his mind.

 

http://www.vanda-layindustries.com/has several nice tools as well. One of the club members brought one to the meeting and it is quality. So I need to make more $$ on eBay and will buy the table saw. I feel it is the one item I will use the most.

 

I like the scroll saw and use it as a table saw with many improvised jigs and fences.

Gotta go to work.

Marc

[GLakie]

My reasons for taking the plunge with the Byrnes tools was precision, well-built, and most of all, the noise factor. I can't hear the saw over the sound of the vac I have hooked to it, which is a major plus in an apartment type setting. 

[GLakie]

For all of you guys that have any or all of the Jim Tools, I found the perfect adapter for the vac hook-up for connecting directly to a 2-1/2" hose. It's made by Ridged Tools and costs about $10. You'll find it in the Ridged Vac Accessories section in about any "big-box" store, in my case Home Depot. Its called the Universal Power Tool Adapter. It's made of rubber and easy to cut. I cut the 2 smaller sections off it and the one that's left fits right inside the adapter on any of Jim's machines. I imagine the next biggest size would fit right over the adapter as well, but the one I picked fits like a glove. The part # for it is VT1407.

Edited April 23, 2015 by GLakie

[Mahuna]

Been using that since I got Jim's tools.  I agree, it's a perfect fit.

 

Frank

[KeithAug]

Hi Guys - I need some help!

 

I have been attempting to buy a Byrnes table saw using the Byrnes web site and have also tried to contact  Model Machines using their web site email page. When I try to use the web site check out I get "Safari can't verify the identity of the website "host2interwebinc.com" and if I try to proceed further I get a 404 error web site not found. Also I have sent 2 emails via the web page but have had no reply. 

 

I know Jim uses the NRG site and that lots of you have had contacts with Jim in the past. Can anyone suggest an alternative method of contacting Jim or Model Machines.

 

Regards

 

Keith

 

 

 

 

[Jack12477]

Keith, two alternatives : Phone 407-657-4663 or Try sending Jim a PM from this site instead.

[Nirvana]

Keith, I take it your are using Mac?!

Jim is a frequent reader of this website and might contact you reading your message.

However, you can reach him by mail through this website as well, in the upper right corner you will find a search feature.

Change to member, and enter Jim Byrnes and you will have his pm (direct msg) and email.

Good luck and yes, Byrnes machines are amazing, I have the thickness sander. Very pleased!

[DBorgens]

Keith,

Use Firefox or perhaps Chrome from a Mac. I had no trouble contacting Jim with Firefox.

Dave B

[KeithAug]

Thank you for the advice - contact successfully established through the PM route.

 

Keith.

[janet bode]

When i want to sand a very small piece of wood or a very thin piece on my Bynes Thicknesser i stick it to a larger piece of wood with double sided tape.I have also  used it on my

milling m/c it works very well but take small cuts.

 

                         Regards janet (

[KeithAug]

like a number of you I have been considering options for installing featherboards on my saw. In particular I wanted something to provide horizontal pressure to hold the timber against the fence. I also wanted something which had a degree of self adjustment (to avoid resetting every cut). The attached photos show my solution. The arm is spring loaded (elastic bands) and this allows me to rip over a range of 1/2 inch without resetting. To reset I move the arm to the next hole, this takes about 30 seconds. The mechanical advantage on the arm means that the force holding the timber agains the fence is about 50% greater than the force applied by the elastic band. While the elastic band may appear to be a bit crude it actually works very well and of course has the advantage that the force can be varied by simply adding or removing elastic bands.

[Nirvana]

Keith, you make me drool. I want a Byrnes saw so much. Unfortunate other expenses has priority.

[gjdale]

Per,

 

Sounds to me like your problem is priorities, not $$$ :)

[cristikc]

With all this ideas, at the end, we will tray to make a lot of TOYS (this is my case) and forget about shipps.

From time to time, i think of making new tools, from what i saw but go to sleep and say: Go to your ship.. she is waiting for you ...

[KeithAug]

Tinkering with Table Saw

 

I am between models so I spent a few hours tinkering with my Byrnes saw.

 

Firstly I was finding blade changing a bit of a chore. Holding the shaft across the flats on the drive end (behind the belt guard) while at the same time loosening the blade fixing nut from the access hole in the base was a bit frustrating, particularly as the spanner on the drive end had a habit of falling off. I wanted something that locked the drive end thus allowing me to replace the blade while only working from the blade end . I decided to make the locking device in the attached photos. Its slides in position and locks in place using the knurled wheel for blade changing and retracts (sliding along the slot) to be locked in the disengaged position. I also took the opportunity to cut a viewing hole in the guard to ease location of the locking attachment.  Obviously I will need to remember to disengage the lock before switching the saw on.

 

I find that things that don't have their own place get lost. I am forever looking for stuff!!!! In the case of my saw the rip angle gauge and the blade height locking key are both prone to going walkabout. I decided to mount both in the saw body. The angle gauge locates in a clip bolted to the side of the saw and the key locates on pins mounted at the back of the saw as per photos.

[BANYAN]

Some very nice adaptions there Keith; I might copy a few of those   (You haven't patented them yet have you )

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited November 15, 2015 by BANYAN

[Landlocked123]

My preference would be for a serving machine.  The reason for this is that I already own an OSS and even though it is designed for macro-carpentry I would be hard-pressed justifying a replacement.  I guess that's the same reason I still use an ancient Dremel table saw with an Accurizer!

Hi Tony,

 

I also have a Dremel 580. I've tried to improve it with some after-market products from Bill on E-bay in Florida. His workmanship and customer service is outstanding. I've bought his fence, mitre gauge, slip-free belt and gears, and backing plate ( not yet installed). But the saw is still not suitable for ripping accurate timber for planking or decking. What is the Accurizer you mention? Is it still available? Would it solve my problems? At this point I think I could sell the Dremmel with the accessories and come out even. I then wouldn't be to far from buying a Byrnes saw. What do you think?

 

Thanks,

 

Best,

John

[KeithAug]

Hello Pat

 

I do have a patent for a liquid distributor!!!!!!....... but not for these modifications that anyone who wants to can copy. Thank you for the interest.

 

Regards Keith

[gjdale]

Some great ideas there Keith. I particularly like the blade-changing locking mechanism. I may very well have a crack at copying that idea myself!

[KeithAug]

Hi Grant

 

If you do get round to making the blade lock the most critical dimension is the length of the peg which holds the arm. I measured the distance from the outside of the drive pulley to the wall and added .015 inch. 

 

Regards Keith

[gjdale]

Thanks for the extra info Keith.

[barryww]

I bought a $49 dollar "mini table saw" and already broke it. Talk about getting what you pay for.  I'm going to do some sweet-talking and convince my wife that I NEED the Byrnes.  What a fine machine. You all that use it.....what's the best blade Byrnes sells that you use for ripping planks?  They have a 3" 110T blade with a .02" kerf all the way to the 4" 36T blade with a .055 kerf.  I'll be cutting sheets of castillo boxwood.  Would like to know what you use......thanks.

Edited November 17, 2015 by BarryWW

[mtaylor]

Barry,

 

Here's two links that should help,

 

First Hobbymill's page on the saw (note that this info is good for other saws also): http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation.php

And Thurston's webpage for blades:  http://www.thurstonmfg.com/cut-off-saws.html

 

I don't have the Byrnes but the Thurston's that Jeff (Hobbymill) recommends are excellent and very reasonably priced.