Restoration of Bassett Lowke "Albertic" by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100

[michael mott]

Mike and Druxey thanks, for your comments.

 

 

there are a couple small chunks missing.......how are you going to fill them?

Denis I am not sure, but I'm thinking about it.

 

I placed the soldered up side in to see how well it lines up, it slipped in with a little bit of fiddling at the forward end.

 

 

Once I have the white paint matched fully I will strip off the paint from the brass on the side piece before setting it in permanently.

 

Michael

 

[Jim Lad]

She's really coming together, Michael.  Beautiful work.

 

John

[Mirabell61]

Michael,

 

your restoration work is excellent, your client will be highly pleased....

 

Nils

[captainbob]

You're doing a fine job. 

 

Bob

[reklein]

Model Railroaders have a paint remover  product called ELO Easy Lift Off By Polly S paints but unfortunately I don't think they're in business any more. I've used it for removing lettering etc. on train models. However you're probably done with this part by now.

[Jack12477]

Michael, would this Citrus based (CitrisStrip Stripping Gel) paint & varnish remover work for you? We've been using it to remove paint and varnish from a 104 year old bronze end cap from an ice boat we are restoring.

 

Edited November 14, 2016 by Jack12477

[michael mott]

 

would this Citrus based (CitrisStrip Stripping Gel) paint & varnish remover work for you?

Jack thanks for reminding me about this type of product, I will pick up something comparable here today for the side of the metal section below the boat deck.

 

I popped the funnel into a large glass jar and filled it with lacquer thinner, left it for a couple of hours with the lid on out in the shop, it peeled off the paint very nicely.

 

 

 

 

Now of course I have to mask off the fine brass bands.... I think that liquid mask is going to be the way forward.

 

Michael

 

 

[Chasseur]

Hi Michael,

I remember viewing this model about 4-5 years ago at the Edmonton Library downtown. I was amazed at the workmanship of the modeller who built it. I just stumbled upon this post and I am aghast at what has transpired. However I am not totally surprised as a few years ago I had built a WW2 diorama for the library here in Sherwood Park to commemorate Rememberance Day.

 

Long story short ... I found out from a staffer that some snotty nosed brats trashed my diorama. Apparently the parents were as belligerent as the brats they raised. I ended up giving the diorama to some kids down the street and the library bought me a nice book in leu.

 

You are definitely the right man for this restoration. Also as a side note the 1/96 scale USS Constitution that I built for the library here in Sherwood Park still stands intact in its display case. If my ship should meet its demise I know where to send it. :-)

 

Jeff

[jbshan]

Stripped the old paint off nicely, you said?  It freak-n GLEAMS.  Well done.

[druxey]

Nice!

[thibaultron]

Instead of masking the bands, you could paint the whole funnel "Funnel Color", then mask this and paint the bands. That might be simpiler than trying to mask the curved band surfaces.

[michael mott]

 

you could paint the whole funnel "Funnel Color", then mask this and paint the bands.

That is an interesting idea Ron. My only concern with doing that is the issue of making the bands brass colored, I have not seen a good representation of brass in paint yet. The bands do need to be brass in order to match the original finish. I do agree that it would definitely be a lot easier to do.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

I think I have found a rather unlikely candidate to use as a masking fluid that can be easily knifed.

 

 

I worked on a hunch that this stuff might work well so using a toothpick I created a ring around a scrap of brass, then brushed on some Zinc Chromate primer, them gave it a couple of coats of sand(close color)

 

but while waiting for this to dry I noticed that the blob that was left on the Plexiglas scrap had dried to a nice thick clear sheet like area. I wondered how well it would cut and peel.

 

 

It cut off very smoothly, so I am going to follow this up with a further test. The piece of brass is a section of the hinge material that I used to make some hinges for the cutter. I used a toothpick to smear some along the edge and when it is dry I will see how well it cuts along the edge of the rounded section.

 

I did use some liquid frisket for a first test but it peeled away when I started to knife it. so perhaps this will be a lucky discovery.

 

I did peel off the glue from the brass tube I did not knife this but the results are definitely promising.

 

 

Michael 

Edited November 15, 2016 by michael mott

[cog]

Windsor & Newton masking fluid often used for water colour, or Vallejo masking fluid ...

[druxey]

Perhaps the other possibility is to spray the whole funnel, then gently scrape the paint off the bands later?

[michael mott]

 

Perhaps the other possibility is to spray the whole funnel, then gently scrape the paint off the bands later?

Druxey, this had occurred to me, I intuitively rejected the idea when it crossed my mind. This morning I revisited the idea because of your suggestion. 

 

 

No matter how gently I scraped the patina came away as well. I was even able to remove only the top layer of paint in a couple of places as you can see by the zinc chromate traces. I think that there are definitely situations where this would work as a viable option. I do not want to risk removing the patina on the funnels though.

 

This next picture shows the cut edge more clearly on the "No Sew" mask. it is very clean, although the "mask is flexible it is more plastic like than rubbery.

 

 

The gap knifed out is .020" and it peeled out very nicely.

 

When the paint is dry on the brass hinge test piece I will see how it looks at the edge between the rounded and flat sections which will give me a reasonable expectation of how it will look on the funnel.

 

Carl thanks for the suggestion of the other mask solutions. the Windsor & Newton is a latex type similar to the Pebeo which I have and it peeled off the brass in a rubbery way similar to rubber cement which I have also tried. they work great on watercolour paper, and have used them successfully for that purpose.

 

Michael 

[wefalck]

I thought the funnels were made of wood (hence my earlier suggestion for sanding). Brass makes life a lot easier ...

[michael mott]

Being a little hurried I peeled off the mask from the hinge section the Humbrol had only been on for 1 3/4 hours. slopped on with a flat brush.

 

 

 

My first impression is that the mask peeled off very nicely, the edge looks jagged from the fillet of paint that is left standing. the paint is still soft. it was uneven in thickness from the single coat of paint, at the surface of the brass the line is absolutely sharp.

 

When I watched some of the masking videos that are available I noticed that the completely dry paint left a clean edge when it was airbrushed over the mask. The model paint has a very fine pigment grind and requires much less paint than the commercial paint for painting larger materials. Also I did not thin the paint at all just thick straight out of the tin. when this is airbrushed it will be far better.

 

The Humbrol instructions claim 6 hours between coats of paint.

 

Encouraged by these first tests I an going to do an experiment on some brass tube of similar diameter with a strip of brass soldered around, I will follow the exact procedures that I hope to follow on the ship's funnel. I will also allow the proper times for drying and repainting.

 

Michael

 

 

[jbshan]

It might come off cleaner if you run a blade along the edge first, in the joint between funnel tube and banding strip.  Further testing will reveal proper technique, no doubt.

[druxey]

I couldn't tell from the photo that there is a nice patina you wish to preserve, Michael. Now I understand why you are choosing the masking route.

[popeye the sailor]

you could also mask it off in sections.   I've seen this method used in plastic modeling,   but using tape,  removing while the paint is still wet,  may give you a cleaner line.   I've used scotch tape with good result {transparent tape}.    it's very thin and won't leave such a visible line.

[michael mott]

Thanks for all the likes and helpful feedback.

 

I soldered up a piece of copper and brass to mimic the funnel bands, it was tricky getting the section close.  I think Bassett & Lowke used a profile tool and cut some rings which were slid over the tube.

 

I did a composite soldering job, by first soldering a flat strip then adding the half round profile which was made from some .032" that was draw filed to the half round section.

 

 

The back side is a bit ugly

 

 

it is a little smaller but cleaned up is will be adequate for the paint test.

 

Michael

[druxey]

Pretty nice simulation, there, Michael! Hope your test results work.

[jbshan]

Sooo....

Mask oversize, cut mask to shape, paint, remove mask, leaves nicely shiny brass stripe with paint on body of funnel.

I could show you how to scatter a little salt on your watercolour painting, or use clean water on dry paper to limit a wash, but this masking thing is new.  Intrigued to see how it comes out.

[EdT]

Micheal. maybe you've tried this but if not, why not mask with tape on either side of the brass flanges, apply liquid masking to the flange, allow to dry, slice the mask along the edge of the tape with a sharp knife to avoid jagged edge, remove the masking tape, paint the funnel, peel off the liquid mask?

 

Ed

[jud]

Ed's method sounds to be worth adding to the test before a final method is chosen. Michael works fast, this idea might be to late to get into the mix.

Isn't Michael doing one heck of a job, I had little hope that the restoration could even be done in a manner worthy of display, I was wrong. Think I will send him my 1974 Mazda Rotary Pickup for restoration.

jud

Edited November 17, 2016 by jud

[michael mott]

 

Micheal. maybe you've tried this but if not, why not mask with tape on either side of the brass flanges, apply liquid masking to the flange, allow to dry, slice the mask along the edge of the tape with a sharp knife to avoid jagged edge, remove the masking tape, paint the funnel, peel off the liquid mask?

 

Why didn't I think of this.... A great suggesting Ed

 

 

Michael works fast, this idea might be to late to get into the mix.

Yup! I have already given the test funnel a coat of Zinc Chromate, left it overnight as per the recommendations for the Poly scale paint that I used.

 

That said it is a test funnel to sort out just this sort of procedure, so I will use the method Ed suggested after seeing how this first test works out. I have done a lot of masking on Commercial Architectural models over the years mostly using various types of tapes. The standard procedure was to paint, mask repaint with same color to seal the edge then apply the new colour. then to remove the paint befor the paint fully hardened.

 

This particular restoration is new territory hence my caution and the various tests to get as close as possible to the original.

 

The interesting thing is I am constantly reminded of an early comment about discovering the hidden damage, I think that more challenging than that even, is discovering the earlier repairs (not always as good as I would have preferred) that I have to work around.

 

And today I get to go pick up my hot air soldering station from the post office. Thanks for the intro to this tool Wefalck.

And Yes I will also test it to see if it works well for bending wood Druxey.

 

 

Think I will send him my 1974 Mazda Rotary Pickup for restoration.

Not sure you want to do that Jud, I managed to blow a straight eight engine in a 1948 Pontiac 4 door sedan after too long in a parade, the engine overheated so I pulled out dealt with the radiator but was unaware that the oil had also been compromised by the event, ten miles down the highway was all she wrote. The bottom end racket that occurred was enough to scare the coyotes for miles around. It cost a LOT of money to rebuild.

 

Thank to all who have been following along and for those who have done some recent catch ups I really appreciate the interest and the helpful suggestions.

 

Jack I used some gel type non toxic paint stripper on the side, it took a while with toothbrushes and multiple coats but did a good job.

 

Michael

Edited November 17, 2016 by michael mott

[Mirabell61]

excellent metal work on the stack dummy Michael....

 

Nils

[donrobinson]

looking forward to seeing your hot air soldering station, I have been looking also, it seems a lot of them are 220v. Have you thought of maybe making a jig to hold the funnels in your lathe, then using a good sized rest for your hand turn on lathe and paint the entire funnel that way. I think you should have no problem "cutting" around the brass bands that way. Several thin coats(at a slow speed ) should provide you with a very acceptable smooth finish leaving the brass bands untouched. 

[michael mott]

Nils thanks.

 

 

I think you should have no problem "cutting" around the brass bands that way. Several thin coats(at a slow speed )

Don I see that you jest, seriously though I am not at all confident that I could do that.

 

Now the soldering station seem substantial with a replacement element for the hot air gun and all looks good out of the box.

 

 

I stretched a piece of wire to do the obligatory test of coloring it with the hot air

 

 

 

The sound of the fire alarm right above my head just about caused me a heart attack,.... the cat shot out of the room like a rocket. The heating test was stopped whilst I found a chair to stand on to turn off the offending sound.

 

Decided to go out and put the top coat over this.....

 

 

I am going to have to get some filters, the primer coat looked brutal.

 

Now for your communal entertainment and afternoon chuckle.

 

I need some practice with the airbrush...it's been a while and I am definitely rusty with the right settings and thinness of the paint.

 

It was much too thin

 

 

and ran down

 

 

so I turned it upside down to dry, when it is dry I will remove all the paint and start over with the method that Ed described and after getting some filters with paint it again

 

Now I'm going to go and sit and think about all this while I have some lunch.

 

Michael