Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[Kusawa2000]

On 12/20/2019 at 5:23 PM, Chuck said:

Yes indeed.  Luckily our models dont see the outside and any water.  The cedar really works well and has a great color that is so complimentary with the use of boxwood.

 

In fact, to point that out, I finished the qgallery on the starboard side.  For the most part, all of the wood that makes up what you see on the qqallery is boxwood.  It blends really well with the cedar.  You get the benefit of the cheaper price so you can use it for planking and frames and other big stuff.  Then like done here you can switch to the ever more expensive boxwood for the details and other fittings.  In fact, most of the deck fittings and molding will all be done in boxwood.  

 

The qgallery roof rail is all laser cut from boxwood.  You basically have to evenly space the four uprights which are at an angle leaning aft.  There is a nice etched detail on each of them.  These are super super tiny at only 1/16" wide give or take and 1/8" tall.  Then the top rail is added.  This is laser cut with an etched detail along the bottom to give it some depth.  I sanded the laser char and rounded off the edges a bit.  Then I glued it on top of the four uprights.  Yes it a bit longer so you van adjust it to fit your model.

 

Lastly, the three laser cut fancy "flowers" for lack of a better description were glued into the space provided for them.  These are fragile.  Only 1/64" thick and again soooo tiny.  Dont even bother trying to remove the laser char from the edges.  They will break.  Just glue them in position.  That is what I did.

 

This completes all the work for the starboard side as described in chapter 3.  Now to repeat this on the port side!!!

 

Left natural and unpainted...just so you can see it.  Its too bright for my tastes.  I am going with the painted version.

 

 

The painted version....weathered to look like a slate color....I may still lighten it up a bit.

 

 

Overall the galleries came out well.  But these are tricky with so many complex angles.  I definitely recommend buying the laser cut pieces for these even if you are trying to build most everything from scratch.  The windows and glazing and the columns with laser etched flutes etc.  All of the laser cut and etched scrolls will be included too.  The angles are all worked out for you and this will make building the qgalleries so much easier.  These parts will be mostly boxwood for the cedar version and cherry for those building it in pear or some other darker wood.  

 

Oh and I added a scrap piece of painted strip to show you guys what the cap rail will eventually look like.   This will be painted black and glued on top of the sheer much later in the  project.  After we finish planking inboard.  Much later...but it shows how nice it will be finished off.

 

Any questions or comments??? 

Chuck: FIrst.. I hope Santa was good to everyone and their tool drawer is nice and full.. 🙂 With the presents open and breakfast in my belly I had a chance to catch up on Chucks posts and I have one question. I assume the laser cut pieces for the galleries will be become available for purchase or do I need to turn on my carving (or lack of) carving skills? I assume if there will be a laser cut set it will become available with the release of chapter 3? As mentioned before.. amazing work.. its continuing to give me lots of incentive to get the Agamemnon done ASAP! 

 

Everyone.. have a merry Kris Kringle!!!

 

MIKE

[Chuck]

Merry Christmass to all!!!

 

Yes indeed...As I finish up the work for each chapter I will make all of the laser cut parts available that I used.   This included the scrolls, windows, and parts for the qgalleries.   No worries there.  You can choose to buy them or not.  You can always scratch build the parts for that chapter if that is what you want to do.  You have both options.

 

Chuck

 

 

[bdgiantman2]

Merry Christmas to you as well, even though I just follow in admiration of what you are doing. Looking at other models of British warships around the same era, I have noticed many have that railing over the q-galleries painted white, and the  hull plating around the railing that same color as the stripe passing through the gun ports. Will you be doing that on your model?

 

Brian

[Kusawa2000]

Chuck: Thanks for the reply! Will be looking forward to the release of chapter 3!

 

MIKE 

[Chuck]

Thanks 

 

no i wont be painting anything white.  Unless you have a few other items painted white or use ivory its too stark.  I have seen that however.  With the friezes and everything else going on i dont want it too busy.  But as you mentioned, there are plenty of options.  It just depends on how much you want to deviate from the original contemporary model based on your own preferences.

[Worldway]

Wow, I think I'm in over my head.

[Chuck]

Its really no more difficult than the Fair American or any other plank in bulkhead kit.  You will do just fine.  This project just has more details....if you use the laser cut parts it is just like any other kit.

 

you just need to go slow and enjoy the ride.  And with all of the help here you cant beat the experience of learning within a group and seeing the many different solutions presented for each challenge.

[Tim Murphy]

Derek, You are no more over your head then I am. The most important part of this build is that you learn something about the Art of shipbuilding.

There are many people involved with this build that see it from many different angles. All teach us something! I should know because I am the

worst shipmodeler going.

Just use this an learn

[Worldway]

Thanks Chuck and Tim.  I was working on my Fair American today and was thinking that it's a tough but doable kit.  I have a practicum plus this site to help me through that build. I know I will get 100% support from all the great builders at MSW while working on the Winchelsea.  I also believe the scale will be a help because everything is just a little bit bigger.

[Chuck]

With a couple days away from the sweatshop, and time spent in the workshop instead....I managed to finish the port side.  At least it is finished for chapter 3 and matches the other side.   Now I will turn my attention to the stern transom and all of the carvings and details that go back there.  That will complete this chapter.

 

One note...the two figures on the quarters...you will need to file a groove along the back so they sit flush and in position.  Something we couldnt do when making them.  This will vary from model to model.  This needs to be done because the qgalleries stand proud of the transom edge forming a small alcove.  Filing a small groove or slot down the back of the figure helps it sit nicely in the corner.  You will no doubt find this out when it comes time.  Its easy to do.

 

I think I matched the starboard side pretty well.

 

 

 

[Rustyj]

All I can say is outstanding!

[Jim Rogers]

Beautiful work Chuck. My planking is looking 100% better with the side bending technique BUT I still get these micro cracks between planks in the bow. I’m hoping the won’t be noticeable when the entire hull is closed up and you can’t see light

[Chuck]

Elmers wood filler is the exact same color as yellow cedar.  Give that a try.  Especially if they are very tiny.

[ChrisLBren]

Wow.....

[Thistle17]

Inspirational! Obtainable, now that might be another story!

Joe

Edited December 31, 2019 by Thistle17

[Chuck]

Thanks Joe.....Thank You Chris....Have a happy new Year guys.  

 

Chuck

[Jim Rogers]

On 12/30/2019 at 4:53 AM, Chuck said:

Elmers wood filler is the exact same color as yellow cedar.  Give that a try.  Especially if they are very tiny.

I removed the three bow planks on each side and I am redoing. The one I finished This morning has no gap. If that doesn’t work I’ll try the wood filler. Got to keep a closer eye on detail.

[Chuck]

Nicely done!!!  Thats the spirit.

[Chuck]

Ok so to get ready for detailing the stern, here are a few images of the contemporary model.  There will be a few differences on ours based on the original draft.  Here are some close ups for reference.  Its pretty crude when you see it this close up and very dirty.  Ours will be more refined hopefully. I know Jacks figures are so much better than these.

 

[Dowmer]

Well, I’m sure Jack’s will look better, however, considering the originals were carved by hand (not machine) 250 years ago with crude instruments.....I’m still very impressed. Very beautiful. 

[druxey]

A little crude, perhaps. However, I find it is part of the charm of these contemporary models. Neptune's face reminds me of Davy Jones in Pirates of the Caribbean!

[bdgiantman2]

Hey Chuck and all the other builders of this model, all of you are doing an amazing job - I have enjoyed following this forum.

 

I don't know if I am missing something in looking at the pictures and reading the posts.  If I remember correctly, the wale lines of the ship stuck out farthest (thickest part of the entire hull). I can't tell from the many pictures looked at on this forum, it honestly looks like all planks are the same thickness and some painted or stained black. 

 

Brian

[JpR62]

Hello Chuck. On December 30, you indicated that Elmers wood filler had the exact same color as yellow cedar. I need it to finalize the hull of the Medway Longboat (some micro small gaps to fill between the keel and the planks at the bow...). As this product is not available in my country, I will buy it via Amazon. But I will be sure to buy the good product...

It is found in several shades : natural, golden oak,... Can you give me the right reference (or put a picture of the box) ?

Thank You in advance and all my admiration for the wonderful job on the Winchelsea ! 😍

Happy New Year !

 

    

Edited January 3, 2020 by JpR62

[Chuck]

The natural in the tub on the upper right.

 

and yes the wales and black strake are thicker.  But not the crazy pronounced amount that you usually see with kits.  Its not as pronounced.   

[JpR62]

Chuck, Thank You for the quick answer. I will order it.

[tedirene]

Chuck.  I like this link but I am really stuck.  Pretty much at Step 1.  I'd be much obliged if you'd help me get to step two.

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf

 

I cut my tic strips.  Then cut one exactly the length of my largest bulkhead, numbered it and the bulkhead, then made a tic mark (starting from the top) every 6mm (width of my planks).  Then I transferred the tic marks to the bulk head.  This is where I'm stuck.  What do I do for the other bulkheads?  Do I divide each bulkhead distance by the original number of planks (25)?  Do I need to have all my tic marks on all the bulkheads prior to attaching my art tape?

 

 

[Chuck]

Yes you measure that distance of each tick strip and then divide by 25.....

 

BUT its better to divide the hull into belts because at the stern the planks are narrower into the tuck of the counter than against the stern post.   You should line off the hull into belts first......at least separating the hull into two belts.  Those that terminate against the counter or those that terminate along the stern post.   It may not be exactly half the strakes either.   This is not pure math and there is plenty of artistic considerations.  Otherwise the run of your planks will be very odd and the widths will be even weirder.   

 

What ship are you building?   That would certainly help the discussion.

 

Chuck

[Wacom]

Chuck, could you clarify for me the width of the bulkheads.

I am at the stage where the bow bulkheads need thinning down.  In chapter one you mention thinning the bow bulkheads down to 1/8" wide.  Later in chapter two the thickness is given as 3/16" for the quarter deck.

I wondered if I am reading this correctly or just being a dumbell 

[Chuck]

In chapter one there is no planking....hence 1/8" at the bow.   Once you plank up to the sheer in chapter two, you add the fairing cap which is 3/16" wide because it now has the planking on outboard hull.   

 

Chuck

[Wacom]

Thanks Chuck,  had the feeling I was missing something.