Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[bdgiantman2]

Personally I would have though that the coaming pieces would have been painted red not only because these often had additional cannon balls stored around them but also to make easier to see in the dark than ones painted black.  Maybe I am getting mixed up with later times than the Winnie. Glad to see the deck finally coming in on this model. Great progress by all, this has been a favorite blog to read each week.

 

Brian

[Chuck]

I have never seen red coamings before on any contemporary models.  Thats interesting.   Most often they are painted black or left natural.  

 

Chuck

[Beckmann]

Look at this one. SLR0476 a frigate from 1741.

[Beckmann]

SLR0346, a frigate from 1805 has got red coamings as well. At least in the waist. The quarter deck coamings are black.

[Chuck]

I am not sure how clearly you can see this....but if you look between those frames in the great cabin, you can spot the paneled bulkheads.  I have finished planking the bulwarks and am now in the process of paneling the bulwarks on the starboard side.  I am not crazy about the white panels on the contemporary model and will leave them natural.  I will have an update soon but wanted to post this image for you guys to examine first.

 

 

Chuck

[James H]

[Beckmann]

Are these panels just painted, or actually built with frames and fillings?  

[Chuck]

I am not sure what you mean...

[Beckmann]

How to explain in a foreign language...

Here are two photos. If there are Copyright issues, please delete them.

The first show the panels with frames and fillings. The second shows something like plywood with a painted frame.

[Chuck]

No not at all....we wont be building each paneled section.   They are laser etched.   But you could go that route if you are feeling ambitious. Let me show you what I have been up to.  The bulwarks have been planked inboard with their first layer of planks.   The first photo below shows the different widths I used.  This might be slightly different on your model but you get the idea.

 

The bottom two strakes will have the top edge flush with the bottom of the ports.   The three strakes above that between each port were divided up so the top of those was flush with the top of the gun ports.   

 

On top of that goes a strip of 7/32" x 3/64" cedar.   This takes you to the shear along the waist.   I have NOT simulated the seams with pencil because they will all be painted red.   The inboard layer of the fixed blocks were added too and the planking carefully cut around them.  BUT....wait until after you plank the first layer of the inboard bulwarks to put the aft-most fixed block shell in position.   It falls on the deck clamp which is thicker and this particular fixed block sheel should be glued on TOP of the first layer of Bulwark planking.   

The deck clamps are laser cut for you.  The quarter deck clamp is in two lengths.   You need to add the forward section first.   Line up the front of it with the hance piece.   This is important!!!  The notches laser cut in the deck clamp are for the quarter deck beams.   We want to make sure they are lined up properly on both sides.  If done properly your deck beams wont be crooked!!!  Dont sand the laser char off the seam between the two pieces.   This will screw up the placement of the deck beams.  Just butt them together.

 

Once the forward section is glued in place....glue in the aft section.  Below.

 

This was left a bit longer on the aft side so you can tweak it to fit your model.  Another really important note.

 

You will notice that the bottom of the last notch in the deck clamp is even with the top of the stern windows.  This is crucial.  If your deck beams are too high it would be trouble.   A little lower wouldnt hurt though to be safe.   So please please make sure that this is correct.  You will need to adjust it if needed back there.   In fact you should probably clamp the deck planks in position before you glue them in as a test.   Make any needed adjustments before you glue them in.  And a reminder again to not sand the forward end of this deck clamp where the two sections butt together.  Only sand the aft end to make it fit if need be.

 

Here is a look at the forward deck clamp for the forecastle.  Same is true with this one.   Position the end along the hance piece in the waist.   Then cut the other end at the stem to length which will need to be shaped round later for to make the bowsprit hole nice and neat.

 

ALSO.....pre bend this deck clamp with heat.  I used the hair dryer.  Dont try and force bend it at the bow because it will certainly break along the notches for the deck beams.

 

The next step is to install the paneled sheets on the planked bulwarks.  These will appear in the cabins and captains quarters.  They are very thin and laser etched with the panel design.  The full panels between each gun port are added first.  Then the panels above and below each port can be tweaked for a tight fit.  You want to have tight seams here.   Try not to have the seams to visible when your done.   So clean the laser char from them.

 

 

Notice the line on the false deck going port to starboard.  This indicates where a bulkhead wall will be.  Much later in the project of course.  Keep this in mins as the forward edge of the first panel must end so you can push the walled bulkead against it later.  So examine those notches in the deck clamps.  This paneled bulkhead that stretches across the deck will be under the deck beam.   Make sure the forward end of this first paneled section will end up under the beam.  See how it lines up in the photos below.

 

The double line on the false deck is another paneled bulkhead that separates the captains cabin.  Note how it lines up with the notch for the deck beam above it.

 

The cannon is just a prototype for the Winnie that I built.  I use it to test how it fits on the model as I work on it.  It looks like it will fit perfectly once the deck is planked.

 

A quick note about these panels....I have seen some odd shaped ports on the some of the models being built.  Their placements is also sketchy as we have mentioned in many logs.   Especially that aft most port and the entrance to the quarter galleries.  I mention this because these panels are pretty precise. Although some wiggle room has been designed in them...if you didnt measure your ports properly or if they are in the wrong position, your panels will likely not fit.  This is why careful measuring early on is so important.   So for that reason....these panels are OPTIONAL.  You dont have to use them. Especially if the dont fit properly because of your port placement and gun port shapes.   So test them first with a dry fit to see if they will all work.  You might need to get a little creative..

 

And here is a final image of the model today.  I am about to add the second layer of spirketting and deck clamps.  Then I will paint the buwarks red.  But the panels will be left natural.

 

I havent done this yet on the port side so once I am done I will repeat all of this on the port side.  Any questions.

 

  

 

 

[dvm27]

Oh but you have been busy! Love those panels.  Would love to see them varnished but they wouldn't match the rest of the model finish. And those deck clamps certainly insure a level deck. Very innovative work, Chuck.

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Panels look great!

Chuck in the 4th picture, the bottom part (horizontal) off the 1st panel is wider than the top part.  in the next two pictures, It looks the opposite (Top part wider than the bottom part).   

[Chuck]

Ahhh!!!!  You were the only one to catch that!!!!   Gold star for you.  Yes I made a foolish mistake.  I glued the first panel in upside down.   And upside down it will remain.  Once everything is all done it wont be too terrible.  But yes, as soon as I finished it I realized my stupid error.

 

So please be careful when you glue yours in!!!

 

Its not a huge issue.

 

Chuck

[KenW]

I love to see your workmanship and to read your "tutorials".

I'm probably the only one who doesn't know this, but what is a 'spirketting'?

Thanks.

[Chuck]

That is what the thicker layer of bulwark strakes that are between the gun ports and the deck.  They are usually about an inch thicker so when you see a model they stand proud of the strakes above Them .

 

In the contemporary example below they are painted red. But the strakes above them are not.  Look at the planking in the waist.

 

DSC01571

[Beckmann]

Chuck, That model is another example with red painted coamings. Wich one is it? The cabin panels of your Winni look great, even upside down !!!

[Chuck]

That is the science museum model of the 74 gun Warrior.  Also note the deck beams painted red on each side.  I may be doing this on our model.  Its a very common feature although in some cases just the knees are painted red.

[KenW]

Thanks for your quick reply on spirketting.  I checked my photo library and sure enough; there was spirketting on the HMS Victory I visited at Portsmouth back in 2015.

[Chuck]

Next up it was time to add the second layer of spirketting (the lower two strakes) and the 7/32" wide plank above the ports.  I used planks that were the same width but just 1/32" thick.  You can even sand them thinner if you like.   I also added the aft shell for fixed block.  See it forward of the panelling?  This should be added at this stage so you can plank the second layer around it.

 

Note how I also added one more 1/32" second layer strake above that 7/32" wide strip.  The top edge follows along the bottom of the notches in the deck clamp.  I use various width strips because you will need to taper it.  It is not a consistent width.  Just make sure the top edge is flush with the bottom of the notches in the deck clamp.  MOST important....look at the forward end of this additional trip.  Notice where it starts in relationship to the first notch in the deck clamp.  This is important because it will aid you later when we build the platforms for the gangways.

Here is a view of the bow area.  Same things apply.  Notice where the aft end of the plank ends in this instance.   Once again it is even with that first notch.

Sand everything smooth and prep the bulwarks for painting.  Then paint it red.   But dont paint the fancy panels aft.  Here is what my model looks like at this stage.  I still have to complete the port side....havent started planking that yet.  

[JeffT]

I like the red paint. very nice.

[Chuck]

Thanks Jeff

 

Its the usual Grumbacher Crimson acrylic paint from a tube.  I have a lot of clean up to do and many more coats before its all finished.

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Hello Chuck:

now that is all painted red, I was wondering if the planks around the gun parts were also painted red before placing the panels?

[Chuck]

Yes the ports around the panels were touched up before the panelled sheets we glued in place.  As far as the other planks....no I waited to trim back those planks and then apply wood filler if need.  Then those gun ports were cleaned up and painted at the same time as the inboard bulwarks.

 

Chuck

[Jim Rogers]

Are the panels going to be painted or stained?

[Portsoy]

Hi , what a beautiful model and comprehensive guide to your build.

 

What colour will the hull be when finished....will it retain the very pale colour seen in your photos or will you be aiming for the dark honey colour one sees on the models in the NMM?

 

Will you offer the chance to add masts and rigging for modellers who want to build the complete frigate?

 

When will your shop be operational again please?

 

Thanks in advance if you can answer my questions, just fascinated watching the process with recreating this piece of maritime history.

 

kind regards,

 

Dave

[captain_hook]

The Alaskan yellow cedar may darken over time, so the color might end up more like the ships in the NMM. Beautiful work and very clean. I like the way you do your model design - well thought out.

[Chuck]

Im going to leave the panels natural.  Just some poly.  But as I mentioned in the instructions...a shade very close to the contemporary model can be achieved by using Old masters fruitwood gel stain.  
 

No masts or rigging sorry.   But those can be added on your own if you like.  Its pretty standard stuff.
 

My hull will end up this same color when done.  Its what I prefer.  But you can use whatever finish you prefer if you build her.
 

I should have my store back open next week sometime. It depends on whether or not the post office has gotten their act together.  I may send a few test orders out just to be sure before opening up.
 

 

[Guillermo Eduardo Madico]

Hello Chuck, I have a question about the height of the cap rail in relation to the bollard timbers

In the contemporary model the connecting part between the bollard timbers is at the same height as the cap rails.  Does this matter?

G 

[Chuck]

No but keep in mind that the contemporary model doesnt match the original draft in many cases.   So I went with the original draft for my measurements.   In the end it wont matter.   It will just look a bit different.  You could actually go with either way depending on what you like best.

[Chuck]

Today I planked the inboard stern.  There are five strakes.  They are all laser cut with the proper curve.  Note that I started with the top plank so it would be flush with the bottoms of the windows.  We will be adding a thin sill and some molding later on top of this to finish it off.   Excuse the dust!!!  But each new addition does clean every up a bit and make it look nicer covering up all of the frames and bulkheads.  I also decided NOT to high light the seams between these planks as I think they would look too busy.  It will look cleaner this way with the paneled rudder trunk and benches in front of it.

Also not how the bottom three planks dont span the entire width of the stern.  The center will be left open for the rudder and this whole area will be covered with the paneled rudder trunk.   In fact we will be adding the rudder real soon.

 

But first I want to get the deck planked.  So next up was adding the margin planks.  These are also laser cut with scarfs.  But be aware that it is unlikely that these will fit your model perfectly.  There will be so many differences in the way each of you fair inboard and create the inboard shape of the hull.  So some of you will no doubt have to use them as a starting point to trace them and cut new ones to fit your model.  Its not very hard to do.  They are 3/64" thick. The aft section against the transom was positioned first.  The aft edge was beveled to fit snug against the transom.

Then I started adding each of the four sections along each side.  Starting at the bow and working my way aft.

 

Next up I will add the waterway which will be a 1/16" x 1/16" strip that is angled on the inboard side.  You know the drill.  Its the same way as done with all of my projects.   Once that is done I will start building the platforms and coaming down the center of the deck so I can plank around them.  Here is how she looks now.  Testing the deck beams too!!!