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Posted
5 minutes ago, cog said:

My 2 cents:

Cross the bars, loop a wire over the cross piece, pul underneath the other bar, and loop over the other side of the cross piece. CA to fixate it. You can get the full metal look by opening op the holes in the original part and fix it in place as if it part of it ...

Which is exactly what my Option 3 was. You explained it better :D.

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

Posted
7 hours ago, Dan Vadas said:

Which is exactly what my Option 3 was. You explained it better :D.

 

:cheers:  Danny

Thanks Danny. .. in this case the proverb "Great minds think a like" doesn't apply, considering my relative mediocre one.

 

Quote

 Now I have the flu so I have time to think about it.

So you only think when ill !?

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted (edited)

Those guns are the trumpeter kit guns. I had thought I threw them out by mistake but dug them out of a pile of what I thought was spare parts minus the barrels. So I took 2 20mm barrels that I didn't use and used them, Problem solved. Now on to that darn range finder mast problem.  Acually I will procrastinate that as long as I possibly can... I have railings to glue next. 

Edited by semorebutts
Posted

Looking good  keep up your vit C  and  be careful around the admiral, when I am not well my admiral calls it man flu  - in her words a not very serious condition lol.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted (edited)

Ah admirals ... if you don't give it they'll take it, or force it upon you as in this case ;)

 

1:43 ... that's rather precise, you must be having the shakes by now ... are you certain you will get those railings on straight ... " It's a gluey mess! I think I glued my arm to my workbench by mistake. "   Better tha havin the Bismarck attached ... at least you won't go far, and the chance of getting lost is quite small ... :) 

 

Scot,t Take care of that flu, and the missus

 

Cheers

Edited by cog

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted
9 hours ago, semorebutts said:

OC I caught the flu from her! We both feel like we've been put in a blender. I blame her for being so damn pretty I just had to kiss her! Then BOOM I'm sick too :(

 

Cog I got 1 hour 43 minutes of sleep last night and I'm trying to glue down some railings as we speak.  It's a gluey mess! I think I glued my arm to my workbench by mistake. :huh:

Last I heard  - Ikea have a good A & E  for your stuck arm to workbench.;)

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

Smart move. You'd hate to have to dismantle any work you did while you were ill. As many others have said, there is no time limit to complete a build. You're doing great. Keep it up to your standards. And get rest and drink lots of fluids.  This flu season is one of the nastier ones. ;)

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted

That is looking so Superb.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

Just found your log as I am considering building a Bismark or Tirpitz in 1:350.

Done a b****y good job of it, and I particularly learned about adding PE from your build.

 

Re the Tamiya Flat Silver problem, I found it never looks right, as the flakes in the paint are waaaaayyyyy too big.  Humbrol/heller paint is a much better option - and should be easy enough to find.  Having said that, I also paint scale figures, and I have found Jo Sonja silver (acrylic) to have no equal regarding flake size, it is just one smooth surface wathever the scale - and even use it for highlighting bare metal.  Unfortunately this paint is not so easy to find :(.

 

If you are up to it (and think the extra effort is worth it) then you could very easily paint over the Tamiya silver using a brush.  Apart from the Jo Sonja, I dilute my paint to a milky consistency (or even a bit more watery), and prefer to apply several thin 'washes' works better than trying to cover with a single layer of paint.

 

I will keep following you log from now on.

Slainte,

Landrotten Highlander

Heghlu'meH QaQ jajvam

Slainte gu mhath

L.H.

Posted (edited)

Thank you Slainte! I'm going to keep what you said in mind next time I need aluminum paint. I'm just going to leave it how it is at this point. 

  I put the stairs and the rest of the railings on. So basically its almost done.  I can almost install it onto the Bismarck. 

IMG_1652.thumb.JPG.3d34da5b5fb2caf8177228147d345ca7.JPGIMG_1653.thumb.JPG.dbb216e1f2907ea40f4aa9252a0577e2.JPGIMG_1654.thumb.JPG.716d40e0bb8fb22de581928ad442b08c.JPGIMG_1655.thumb.JPG.aa9651836ce1a964c2e213f14b84b5c0.JPGIMG_1656.thumb.JPG.b3cbf25c4ceeababad579f09ddd94952.JPGIMG_1657.thumb.JPG.d8288587180d55d26c6aed61077b6388.JPGIMG_1659.thumb.JPG.0da748d903568a5cfdcd5deb8faac874.JPG

all thats left is the ships bell.  Then It can atleast be put onto the ship. I just wish the bell was brass instead of aluminium. I'm debating  whether or not to paint it like I painted the props under the ship. 

IMG_1660.thumb.JPG.afc0a572a26f7204c1a4279f632f1507.JPG

so bell, install onto ship then I will deal with the range finder. 

Edited by semorebutts
Posted
3 hours ago, CDW said:

Does anyone else find themselves reminded of the old Johnny Horton song, sink the Bismarck, every time you visit a Bismarck build thread? It's just stuck in my mind like an old bad habit.

Sorry to digress Semore. Just needed to get that out there. :huh:

 

Nah, but that's probably because I do not know the song, besides ... isn't it a pitty such a marvelous ship has been sunk, just like Yamato and a lot of other magnificent ships...

 

Scott,

Lovely job on the railings. I like the shading you have applied a lot ... would have expected a brass ship's bell though ...

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, cog said:

 

Nah, but that's probably because I do not know the song, besides ... isn't it a pitty such a marvelous ship has been sunk, just like Yamato and a lot of other magnificent ships...

 

 

You are a lucky man. It is only rivaled by the dreaded, it's a small world, Disney song that never leaves your psyche once you've heard it the first time. Truly an evil thing.

And yes, it is a pity these marvelous works of engineering lie at the bottom of the ocean. But at the time, freedom and liberty required it, and for that, we can rejoice.

 

Edited by CDW
Posted

Hope you get better soon. Might I ask what adhesives you use. I bought some Gator Grip to work on a Veteran 40mm quad as

a learning project. The thin Gator isn't working too well. Probably because I'm an FSU fan. I am sure it is pilot error and not

the product. Gorilla super glue seems to be holding better. 

Thanks for a great log. For those like me who have not done a real PE project before, your skill can really be appreciated.

Feel better, Harley

Cheers, Harley<p 

Under Construction:    USS Yorktown CV-5 1/200 by Trumpeter                                

Completed:              USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 1/200 by ILoveKit

                                USS Atlanta CL-51 1/350 by Very Fire 

                                Liberty Ship John W. Brown 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                HMS Spiraea K-08 1/350 

                                 USS Arizona BB-39 1/200 by Trumpeter/Mk1 Design

                                 HMS Sir Gareth 1/350 by Starling Models

                                 USS Missouri BB-63 1945 1/350 by Joy-Yard, 9/11/21

                                 USS Indianapolis CA-35 1945 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                 USS Kidd DD-661, 1945, 1/350, on The Sullivans kit by Trumpeter

                                 USS Alaska CB-1, 1/350, Hobby Boss, Circa 2/1945

                                 US Brig Syren 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood 

Started, On Hold:  Frigate Confederacy 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

Posted

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

Posted

Thanks for the info. What conditions make you choose between thin and medium?

HJM

Cheers, Harley<p 

Under Construction:    USS Yorktown CV-5 1/200 by Trumpeter                                

Completed:              USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 1/200 by ILoveKit

                                USS Atlanta CL-51 1/350 by Very Fire 

                                Liberty Ship John W. Brown 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                HMS Spiraea K-08 1/350 

                                 USS Arizona BB-39 1/200 by Trumpeter/Mk1 Design

                                 HMS Sir Gareth 1/350 by Starling Models

                                 USS Missouri BB-63 1945 1/350 by Joy-Yard, 9/11/21

                                 USS Indianapolis CA-35 1945 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                 USS Kidd DD-661, 1945, 1/350, on The Sullivans kit by Trumpeter

                                 USS Alaska CB-1, 1/350, Hobby Boss, Circa 2/1945

                                 US Brig Syren 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood 

Started, On Hold:  Frigate Confederacy 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

Posted

basically if the piece has a large flat area to apply glue I will use medium.  if the pieces to be joined are odd shaped or very little surface area I will use thin.  join the pieces together then just touch a tiny drop of thin glue to it and it just flows into the crevice due to the capillary action. then if you notice to much glue just touch a paper towel to the joint, it will suck back any extra glue.

Posted

Thanks very much, that will help a bunch.

Cheers, Harley

Cheers, Harley<p 

Under Construction:    USS Yorktown CV-5 1/200 by Trumpeter                                

Completed:              USS Curtis Wilbur DDG-54 1/200 by ILoveKit

                                USS Atlanta CL-51 1/350 by Very Fire 

                                Liberty Ship John W. Brown 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                HMS Spiraea K-08 1/350 

                                 USS Arizona BB-39 1/200 by Trumpeter/Mk1 Design

                                 HMS Sir Gareth 1/350 by Starling Models

                                 USS Missouri BB-63 1945 1/350 by Joy-Yard, 9/11/21

                                 USS Indianapolis CA-35 1945 1/350 by Trumpeter

                                 USS Kidd DD-661, 1945, 1/350, on The Sullivans kit by Trumpeter

                                 USS Alaska CB-1, 1/350, Hobby Boss, Circa 2/1945

                                 US Brig Syren 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood 

Started, On Hold:  Frigate Confederacy 1/64 Model Shipways, Wood

Posted
57 minutes ago, semorebutts said:

basically if the piece has a large flat area to apply glue I will use medium.  if the pieces to be joined are odd shaped or very little surface area I will use thin.  join the pieces together then just touch a tiny drop of thin glue to it and it just flows into the crevice due to the capillary action. then if you notice to much glue just touch a paper towel to the joint, it will suck back any extra glue.

I almost exclusively use Gator Grip acrylic glue for photo etch rather than CA. Although I do choose Gorilla Glue CA in the bottle with the blue top (a medium viscosity) in certain situations where a quick set is required.

The reason I prefer Gator Grip is because it can be cleaned up so easily without marring the PE or plastic. I also like the fact it takes longer to set as it gives me plenty of time to position parts exactly where I want them to be.

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