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HMS Bellona by yvesvidal - CAF Model - 1:48


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What Yves said, Kevin.   You can do it.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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On 8/25/2022 at 9:14 PM, yvesvidal said:

Above are the final pictures of this section of the hull, never to be seen again.

It must be painful to hide all that beautiful work under the deck. At least you have the photos to prove that it's there.

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Very nice work! I remember you starting the kit when I last visited your build log - and now you‘re close to the last building stages .. 

Current Build:

HM Brig Badger 1/48 from Caldercraft plans

Le Coureur 1/48 by CAF


Completed Build:

Armed Virginia Sloop 1/48 by Model Shipways / Gallery
HM Cutter Sherbourne 1/64 by Caldercraft / Gallery

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Just a quick update on the Quarterdeck: 

 

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The gratings are made with a special box that came with Session #4. Apparently, it is an "upgrade" kit, that contains all the hatched and grtings for the Bellona. These gratings are pre-cut, slightly convex and are ten times easier to assemble than the original hatches provided with Session #2. I did not know that, because there was no relationship between the instructions that came with my kit and that "upgrade" kit. Anyway, I will be using these gratings from now on and may even try to remove the visible ones, on the main deck and replace them with these. We will see.....

 

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The fundamental problem with this Bellona kit is ..... THE INSTRUCTIONS or more precisely, the LACK of them.  I find myself spending a lot of time, figuring out what is going to be my next step and how I am going to do it. Honestly, I don't think you can finish the ship by following blindly the instructions and their sequence of order. Anyway, enough rambling.....

 

I am now working on trying to complete the rear quarterdeck. Before you can finish the planking, you have to install the poop windows: 

 

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You absolutely need a finger on each side to position correctly these window frames. THEN, you can glue the sub-frame for the planking: 

 

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And then you can plank.....

 

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As usual, a couple of Wipe on Poly on the maple planks, to give it more depth and protect the wood (0.5 mm thick).

 

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Above: that is a very big quarterdeck..... You could play bowling on it 

 

Oh, I forgot to mention: the lack of bulwarks in visible places such as this one (see below). The kit has nothing, so it is up to you to fabricate it: Yes, all this will be easily visible, as it surrounds the main wheel.

 

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At this stage, I have done everything I could in the quarterdeck.... I have been trying to postpone the inevitable task of building the second gallery and the "pleasure" of cutting carefully 81 window panes.... Call me procrastinator if you want, but there is absolutely nothing fun in this process.

I am going to try to gather my courage and energy and do it again.... It is that story of needing one finger on each side..... to position perfectly these windows frames. If you follow the official instructions, you just cannot do it...... Every access you can get to the inner galleries is so precious.

 

Yves

 

Edited by yvesvidal
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You are doing a beautiful job on the build.  It strikes me from your trials and frustration that this is almost like a scratch project with all the figuring out of the sequence among other things.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I love the photos of the ladder emerging between the grates. Did you scratch build the ladder? That's beautiful work on a tiny piece. And how did you mark the treenails on the planks? With a pencil perhaps? Those little details sure make a big difference.

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1 hour ago, rvchima said:

I love the photos of the ladder emerging between the grates. Did you scratch build the ladder? That's beautiful work on a tiny piece. And how did you mark the treenails on the planks? With a pencil perhaps? Those little details sure make a big difference.

Rob, 

 

The ladder are provided in the kit. Quite easy to assemble (you almost do not need glue). Then I stained them with some oak stain.

The treenails are simply done with a mechanical (0.7 mm) pencil. They are sealed with multiple coats of Wipe on Poly.

 

Yves

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have not published an update in a little while and thus, here are some progress. I am still working on the second gallery, trying to make it as similar as the first one, which is not exactly easy. 

 

But first, let me present how these are built, according to CAF, in their Session #5: 

 

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If you manage to get anything out of these instructions, on a finished hull, you are really gifted !!! That is probably why the Internet abounds with pictures of the finished CAF Bellona.... (sarcastic grin).

 

Below is my way of doing it, probably not the best but it works: 

 

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This is the starting point. As you will see, I am not following the CAF Model instructions and have modified the parts (slightly) to fit my hull and simply because their way of doing it, does NOT work.

 

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The following part is soaked in alcohol and bent/pre-shaped to accommodate the multiple curves: 

 

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It is then glued in place. As you can see, I have added a little strip to increase the length of that partition (1I-3): 

 

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Then a couple more parts are glued on top as well as a strip in the front of the gallery: 

 

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After a little bit of painting, things are looking much better. Here, Liquitex UltraMarine blue is used with a coat of Future Floor on top:

 

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We can now install the windows, which in turns will allow us to finish the sub-floor and planking of the rear quarterdeck: 

 

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I started trying to cut the openings and after breaking two rungs, quickly decided to change strategy. Instead, I used Tamiya Sky Gray to paint the window glasses with a drop of Future Floor to bring some reflections to the window glass. You can see on the front window, the two rungs that snapped immediately. The reason these rungs break is that the CNC machine that built these frames did not go deep enough and left too much material between the rungs. The problem does not exist with the main rear window but only with the galleries windows. I may have to ask CAF to send me a replacement set for that specific window pane.

 

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Finally, the balusters/columns are installed. Painting the panes (versus cutting the openings)  is a big time saver and actually the only viable option for these window frames.

 

Yves

 

 

Edited by yvesvidal
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After installing the red window frames on the gallery, you can finish the poop windows: 

 

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Those will cut very easily as the glass is paper thin and very easy to remove. Tracing paper is glued behind, sandwiched between two heavy plates for drying and the panes can be glued in place, as long as you can access them from behind, for optimal placement.

 

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Yves

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Time to populate the quarterdeck with a few features: 

 

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The CAF Model kit does not provide the base plates to the deck. I took the inspiration from the superb 1/72nd Bellona built by Chris Watton and figured that if Chris had built these, he probably knew better than the CAF folks. It also makes for a much sturdier railing overall.

 

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Yves

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At this stage, I can finally finish sub-floor and planking of the rear quarterdeck. But before we install the sub-floor, the rudder must be set in place and connected to the spring for an automatic neutral positioning: 

 

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A little bit of vacuum cleaner to get rid of the dust and the sub-floor can be installed: 

 

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Planking can be completed at this point: 

 

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As usual, 0.5 mm maple planks, glued individually, sanded with 400 grit and treated with three coats of Wipe On Poly for depth of color and protection.

 

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Yves

 

 

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With such a large quarterdeck, it was necessary to build the various partitions and walls, offered by the kit. Once again, all of the things you are seeing will be occulted by a bare poop deck. It is kind of sad in a way.

 

The bulkhead located right behind the wheels and mizzen mast: 

 

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All the assemblies are part of Session #4. The balusters/columns are 3D resin printed. I have replaced the printed corners with  3x3 mm cherry wood pieces, as the corner balusters provided in the kit were not matching at all. The resin parts were way too large and did not fit the limited space between the two sides.

 

Below, an overall view: 

 

DSC06366.thumb.JPG.756427c560df501676a8f433c5532c5f.JPG

 

Yves

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The next phase is the building of the screen bulkhead. Here I wanted to depict it as close as possible to the National Maritime Museum model, which is basically painted in white. I only used some light gray for the windows and the wainscoting of the panels. Inside. the wood is just stained, lightly: 

 

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The white putty is used to provide a very tight seal between the bulkhead and the planking. This prevents the light to go through.

 

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The rear screen bulkhead is slightly convex in shape.

 

Yves

 

 

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Finally, the building of the bulkhead separating the main cabins: 

 

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Overall, it is pretty much the same way of building that partition. It is finally glued in place: 

 

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Not much to see, once the poop deck will be in place: 

 

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Time to install the diamond floor: 

 

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That's it, for the quarterdeck. I still have the doors leading to the "Johns/Galleries" to build and a few details and we will be able to close the lid on all this :-(

 

Yves

 

 

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46 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

That's it, for the quarterdeck. I still have the doors leading to the "Johns/Galeries" to build and a few details and we will be able to close the lid on all these details 😞

That’s a lot and the view through that port is all you need to make it worth it. Very cool Yves  😎 You might want to print up some build photos for a build album to put on the shelf with you finished display case. You have got to preserve these pictures of the lower deck details. 👍

Gallery Photos of My Charles W Morgan 

Currently working on New Bedford Whale Boat

 

 

 

 

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Looking really good, Yves!

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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A quick update on the Quarterdeck, with a small improvement and modification of the original kit: The National Maritime Museum model presents a nice molding above the rear bulkhead.

 

poop.png.9fae1fa7a4d8522fcef2619a71741904.png

 

That molding is not present in the CAF Model kit and I wanted to add it: 

 

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I used one of the 2 x 2 mm strips in the Session #4 box and after scrapping it with the correct shape, came up with this sandwich. Instead of the sub-floor going directly against the balusters/columns, I think it offers a little bit more realism for the stern of that ship.

 

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You can see (above) how the molding is placed: a 2 x 2 strip sitting on top of the bulkhead and a 2 x 2 strip scrapped and glued to it. It does not cover entirely the top of the balusters, but once the top deck is in place, it will be impossible to see that.

 

Because of the introduction of that decorative molding, the top deck is raised by another 2 mm. At that point, the beams supporting the top deck must be raised to accommodate the change: 

 

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This is easily done by placing a 2 mm thick piece of wood on top of the elbows, supporting the beams: 

 

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Once everything is sanded smooth and cleaned, the poop deck fits nicely with just a slight curvature to eliminate the standing water: 

 

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Note that the installation of these beams is part of the last Session #5.

 

Overall view of the rear section and quarterdeck: 

 

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Time to move back to the Gallery and the bow. Thank you all for your comments and encouragements, as they are very much appreciated.

 

Yves

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  • 4 weeks later...

I think it is time for a small update. I finally completed the starboard gallery.... The following pictures are showing the sequence of the build:

 

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The lattice is 3D printed in resin.

 

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I am not really following the kit (lack of) instructions, neither am I using all the parts provided in the kit.

 

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Paint and Future Floor.

 

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Gluing the rails.....

 

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Building of the roof....

 

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Installation of the window panes....

 

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And the pilasters to complete the gallery.... Et voila.

 

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The port side....

 

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Again, make sure that you have access through the inside of the hull, to the galleries for the final installation and correct positioning of the window panes.

 

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The doors can be installed later on.

 

Yves

 

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that is fantastic, i am so looking forward to getting back to wood

Its all part of Kev's journey, bit like going to the dark side, but with the lights on
 

All the best

Kevin :omg:


SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS.
KEEP IT REAL!

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Preparation of the Poop deck. The original poop deck in the kit (Session #5), did not fit at all. Tom of CAF Model sent me a replacement part that is better but will require some adjustments as we will see.

 

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The replacement part came in one single and enormous part. Because of the negative curve on the top of the hull, it is not possible to insert it directly. My first job was to cut it into two symmetrical parts (picture above). Then patiently, I adjusted each side to fit in the best possible way.

 

All these attempts make me think that there are probably very few (if not none) modelers who have reached that stage in the construction of that kit.

 

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The front view of the upper deck, clearly shows that it is missing one beam, not provided in the kit. I will be offering a solution soon.

 

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The rear need to be reworked extensively to accept the rounded ceiling, above the rear balcony.

 

Finally, an overall view of the model, showing that most details are now completely occult-ed: 

 

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Yves

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Moving on with the poop deck. Now is the time to place a lid on all the Officer's apartments. Again, I have broken free of the CAF Model sequence of instructions, as they do not make any sense to me. Therefore, I am describing how I managed to build that part of the model: 

 

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As usual, I am proceeding with "halves" for a better control of the glue and more precise positioning of the decks. Before, gluing the poop sub-floor, it is necessary to work and place the round cover above the rear balcony: 

 

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That part is provided in plywood in the kit and not prone to bending, even heavily soaked. Therefore, I cut another similar part in a sheet of plain wood (3 mm thick) and after a copious soaking in alcohol, I managed to bend it round and adjust it accordingly. It is tedious but must be done carefully for optimal results. You can see below, how this section will look like:

 

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On the front side of the poop deck, it does not look too bad: 

 

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And a bird's view: 

 

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The half poop deck is then glued and heavily pressed to make sure the thick plywood (2 mm) is installed correctly. Here again, I wish CAF Model would provide thinner sub-floors of 1.5 or even 1 mm thick. I have to say that once it is glued, that stuff is rock solid.

 

The next step is to fill up with wood scraps the bulwark, after gluing the siding. A lot of dust is made in the process and your best friend remains the ashes vacuum cleaner. 

 

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A little bit of red paint and things are already more pleasant: 

 

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You can see (below) how thick and solid the bulwarks are. The railing will be glued directly on top:

 

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Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
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Before being able to close the second half of the poop deck sub-floor, I needed to assemble the wheels. The kit provides two axial circles to help you put together this very delicate part of the kit: 

 

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To be honest, I could not put it together as designed: it did not make sense. In my opinion, you need three layers to sandwich the brass bars and make it possible. The kit only provides 24 circular sections for two wheels and that is not enough. 

 

Thus, I decided to contact Tom of CAF Model and ask him for extra parts (I also needed extra parts for other locations and that will be described later on). In a very quick time, Tom designed all the parts I needed, cut them on his laser machines and sent me everything for $23 plus $20 for postage. I was truly impressed by the speed and small price to pay to get all the extra parts and I sincerely hope these additional parts will be included in the future Session #5 contents.

 

Below is the new sheet, including enough circular sections to build multiple wheels, new ladders and a bag of 24 brass pins for the wheels.

 

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With these new parts, it is now possible to assemble delicately the wheels: 

 

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Each wheel is comprised of 18 wood parts, 12 brass parts and the hub made with brass washers = 32 parts total.

 

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The above took me multiple days and is super tedious. By far, one of the most difficult step in this kit.

 

To put everything together, I designed a small platform to install the wheel, the drum and the rope: 

 

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The height under the sub-floor is very limited at 31 mm, and the fit is very ...very tight: 

 

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Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
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Before closing the second half of the poop deck, it was necessary to assemble four more 9 pounder guns: 

 

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Again, the bulwark is built and strengthened with pieces of wood. Note that the triangular sides of the bulwarks provided in the kit are not large enough and need to be extended for a full coverage of the poop deck. 

 

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Yves

Edited by yvesvidal
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