HMS Bellona by yvesvidal - CAF Model - 1:48

[hamilton]

Just catching up on your progress here Yves - she's looking great! 

hamilton

[yvesvidal]

Four or five coats later (I lost track of them), I think I have the colors pretty much laid out nicely: 

 

 

Of course, the red delicate touch-ups on the gun ports, remain to be brushed. 

 

 

I will now move to the rails ("D" and "E") to match the other side of the hull.

 

Thank you for the Likes and encouragements.

 

Yves

Edited April 20, 2022 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

The port side is almost completed. I still have to paint the gun ports, carefully.....and endlessly.

 

 

 

The stern is wide open and I am skipping the installation of the window frame as it would result in a broken part (8 windows wide): 

 

 

Same for the bow, which si coming in Session #4, after the installation of the main deck: 

 

 

 

The next big task of that endless SESSION #2, is the building of the gun deck: 

 

 

Overall view of the beast: It is starting to get heavy.....

 

 

Yves

 

 

[yvesvidal]

Time for a little check point on this long and delicate Session #2. The hull is partially completed although there is still a lot of detailing work to be done.

 

 

We still have a lot of parts left for Session #2 and tons of delicate work with the interior of the hull and the gun deck: 

 

 

I am going to start decking from the bow, since the stern deck (E) has been already put in place. The front deck requires some reworking and the CAD design does not exactly fit my model: 

 

 

Nothing major as you can see, just some adjustments necessary on such a large model. I will plank these decks outside of the hull for multiple reasons: 

• Comfort of working and precision.
• The hull is deep and access is not easy.
• I do not want to place unnecessary stress on the hull, while trying to fiddle with the decks. It  is easy to break parts, especially inside the hull.

Once completed, the gun deck should look like the picture below: 

 

 

As you can see below, I changed the order of assembly and kept the deck(s) installation for the end. So, let's get started with the bow....

 

Yves

 

 

[yvesvidal]

The bow section of the gun deck is now completed: 

 

 

Bitts and front mast holder.

 

 

 

 

And with a coat of oak wood stain: 

 

 

The overall color will become dull with time, matching the stern gun deck.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

Still working on the gun decks: 

 

 

Some people may notice that the sections are not connecting. This is intentional, since this whole part of the vessel will be invisible once the main deck is built. In addition, it would be very impractical to plank in that deep hull and the risks of breaking the knees are not worth the trouble.

 

 

Through a closed gun port or by poking a gun in your eye, you will not be able to see much of the gun deck. That is the nature of the beast.

 

Yves

 

[rvchima]

You need to hide a little treasure inside for some conservator to find 200 years hence.

[yvesvidal]

Session #2 is coming to a closure soon. The decks have been installed and a couple of oak stain coats, applied. A gun deck reeks of powder, blood, urine and fear.... It just cannot be clean and of a light color.

 

 

 

 

I still have to build the capstans, pumps and the various grates to really call Session #2, completed.

 

 

In the meantime, a second coat of Future Floor on the copper tiles to prevent them the urge to run away, during the manipulations of this massive hull.

 

 

 

 

Et voila...

 

 

Yves

Edited April 30, 2022 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

- SESSION #2 is now completed - 

 

Session #2 is now completed. This was by far the largest, longest and most difficult session with 90% of the hull being built.

 

The original (read early...) CAF Session #2 kits included all the material and parts required to build the 28 large cannons (wood and brass). However, when I received my kit, the contents of Session #2 had been modified and the gun barrels in brass were no longer provided in the kit. They are now part of Session #5. I suspect it is a ploy to make you purchase all the sessions at once....

 

Thus, even though I have all the parts to build the guns, I will not include them in Session #2 and move them to Session #3, which is the building of the main deck. These large guns will have to be built before you can close the gun deck and cover it with the main deck.

 

First, a few images of the gun deck. It is simplified in a way, as 95% of it will not be visible in any ways: 

 

 

 

 

 

I have added some wood gutters to direct the dirty water pumped out from the base of the main mast (bilge). These are not provided in the kit.

 

 

I did not build the crankshaft and handles required to operate the pumps as nothing will be visible. There is plenty of "visible" work to be done and I did not have the patience and energy to build this kind of details.

 

A few pictures taken from the gun deck: 

 

 

The plan is to make the capstans rotate, when the main deck capstan are turned by hand. They will be coupled.

 

 

 

At this stage, the model weights close to 5 Kgs or 10 pounds and 11 ounces. It is heavy, large and will present a challenge to manipulate when the main guns are in place. The Future Floor provides a nice protection for the copper tiles and so far, I did not have any mishaps.

 

A few pictures showing the overall lines of the hull and where we stand at the end of Session #2: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Let's talk briefly about the quality of the kit: 

• The white wood to plank the hull is okay. I think it is Lime wood and is overall of decent quality. The 3 x 8 mm planks are hard to bend and will require some pre-bending on a jig after soaking them in isopropyl alcohol. Some of the planks are irregular in size (10 mm instead of 8 mm) and sometimes the thickness varies.
• Overall, CAF is rather generous and there is plenty wood left over to correct mishaps or to select the planks.
• For the copper tiles, I believe I should have convinced our readership to not go with the CAF tiles (expensive and too small) and use the 3M copper tape instead.
• The gun deck parts will require a significant amount of adjustments to make them fit in the hull. The planking of the gun deck could have been done inside the hull, with the risks of breaking all the knees used to hold the other decks. It is a lot easier to plank these outside of the hull. A better job than mine could have been done, but you have to choose your battles and realize that nothing will be visible beside the muzzle of the guns or the closed lids.
• The wales could have been laser cut instead of being simply made of strips. it is unfortunate that on such big kits, CAF does not provide you with pre-cut wales like Vanguard does on some of their models.
• The respect of the dimensions and exact assembly of the frames in Session #1 is paramount to the success of Session #2 and following sessions.
• What irritates me the most is the complete lack of instructions and guidance. The manual is just a collection of 3D computer based renderings and does not provide much help. Fortunately, I am learning a lot from the various people building these gorgeous and very well designed Vanguard kits.
• The kit does not call for any tree nailing and I like that approach. I have looked at a few pictures of restored period ships and cannot see any nails in the hull. I respect the desire by some modelers, to drill thousands of oversized holes in their models and fill them with small extruded bamboo nails, but it is simply not something for me. I will definitely do it for the main deck and upper decks but it does not make sense to do it on the hull, in my humble (and lazy) opinion.

 

A few final pictures, showing the beast next to other 1/48th scale models: 

 

 

 

 

 

I will not start Session #3 immediately. There is plenty to be done on this hull, none of it being covered by the absence of instructions. I call it my Session #2.5 ☺️

• Drill the scupperways on the wales. I will use the COREL plans to get an idea of their locations.
• Drill all the small holes for the gun lid lifting ropes.
• Brush an nth coat of red on the gun ports.
• Decide which ports will be closed and which one(s) will be open.
• Build the 28 large pounds guns and fix them permanently on the gun deck.

Only after doing that, will I be in a position to start session #3. I also suspect that with Session 2.5 and 3, I may not be able to follow exactly the (lack of...) instructions and will have to introduce many parts normally assembled (and only available...) in Session #5. We will have to be creative and careful.

 

Yves

 

Edited May 11, 2022 by yvesvidal

[John Ruy]

Awesome work Yves…  Not only is this an impressive model, but your attention to detail and enhancement of this kit is incredible.  Nice! 👍

 

John

[Kevin]

that my friend is stunning

[CDW]

Oh my gosh, the scale of this model has just been revealed. Huge and beautiful! Great work, Yves, I love it. It dwarfs two models I know are very large.

[mtaylor]

Beautiful work, Yves.   I would daresay that your log will be the instructions for those who follow.   I do like your concept of not being a slave to finishing that which won't be seen also.

[yvesvidal]

SESSION #3

Folks, I am starting a little bit Session #3. I have decided to leave Session #2.5 (my own...) for a later date, as I want to move forward and see how the main deck is going to fit. From now on, I will read.. (actually browse ) at the instructions and decide if I may take a different route. I think that in a lot of cases, it will be safer and clever to not follow exactly what CAF is suggesting.

 

However, as promised, here is the review of Session #3 with all its parts: 

 

 

You can see that I started cutting the rear deck E, on one side.

 

 

 

 

and all the wooden parts required to assemble the mid-size guns on the main deck. The larger guns parts were delivered in Session #2, without the brass barrels. Same here, no brass guns.

 

 

As you can see in the pictures above, it is all about the main deck.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

The instructions in Session #3 are urging you to install and secure the large guns, on the gun deck. In my humble opinion, one should wait the very last moment to do that, as all these 28 guns protruding from the hull are presenting a little disaster in themselves. Plus, installing the main deck beams will automatically create some sawdust and the guns will be in the middle. Therefore, I will install (and build...) the large guns at the very last minute, before closing the coffin on the gun deck.

 

 

The first few pictures were about drilling the hawses on the bow of the ship, to pass the anchor ropes. I will do that later.

 

First, I want to see how these beams are fitting in the hull: 

 

 

Beams 16A and 16B have been installed. The fit is perfect and just tight: impressive, when you know that the entire hull was built without any templates. I am trying to make sure they are horizontal as much as possible.

 

Then installation of  beams 15A/B and 14A/B to hold the mast of artimon: 

 

 

Finally, a sailor perspective: 

 

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

The front beams are a little bit more delicate to install and precise adjustments are required to make the mast vertical in all directions.

 

 

Beam 2A and 2B will have to be cut to allow the passage for the bowsprit. That is really a bummer as this beam is very sturdy and provides a nice anchor for the plate holding the front mast. I decided to install two pieces of wood to hold that #2 beam, which will be cut later on. Hopefully, that will reinforce it and prevent the front mast from losing its (perfect) alignment.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

I am installing the main deck beams, within the context of Session #3. The beam #2 is cut to let the bowsprit pass through: 

 

 

I would highly recommend doing the reinforcement as I pictured it. That beam (#2) is essential to the right positioning of the front mast.

 

The plate holding the front mast is glued to Beams #4 and #3 (notice the wrong markings on the plate - It should be 2 and 4). 

 

 

The piece underneath is angled at exactly 30 degrees. It takes a lot of fine tuning to get that part right, but once done, it fits perfectly and can be glued in confidence.

 

 

 

To make it really solid (if one day I decide to build the bowsprit) I placed two pieces of wood on the deck to make the bowsprit holder very rigid and well anchored: 

 

 

 

The remaining beams are glued very easily. I am amazed by the precision of the parts and how well they fit. Even though some beams are longer than 270 mm, they do fit perfectly with no cutting or sanding. Once again, the careful assembly of the frames is paying off. Let's hope the same will be true for the upper decks.

 

 

 

All the beams have been installed: 

 

 

 

 

And a few goofy sailor's perspectives: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh, I forgot to talk about Beam #12: it is passing very close to the axle of the capstan and I decided to cut it for a better and free rotation of the axle: 

 

 

This way, when the main deck capstan is rotated, the lower one will rotate in concert.

 

So far, Session #3 is moving along nicely and I think it is time to go back to the outside of the hull and do all the preliminary work (Session #2.5). The main guns will be installed at the very last minute and not a second early.

 

Yves

Edited May 13, 2022 by yvesvidal

[mtaylor]

Looks good and that's great to hear about the fit.   One question... with the beams in place, will they block installing some of the gun?  I'm assuming there's no gun rigging on this deck.

[yvesvidal]

19 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Looks good and that's great to hear about the fit.   One question... with the beams in place, will they block installing some of the gun?  I'm assuming there's no gun rigging on this deck.

Mike, you are correct. The guns can be installed very easily with no conflicts. The hull is large and relatively easy to access internally.

Guns rigging? Only if you are masochistic and need some pain.

 

Yves

Edited May 14, 2022 by yvesvidal

[mtaylor]

For this beast, rigging guns would indeed be painful.

[yvesvidal]

Before moving to Session #2.5, I adjusted the floor pieces for the main deck. A total of 10 thin plywood plates, delicately cut. They do require some adjustments mostly against the inner side of the hull and sometimes to accommodate the thickness of the frames. 

 

 

Some final sanding will be required to make them fit without stress or tension, but most of them are perfectly flat and in place. A final view with all the masts and capstan axles: 

 

 

Yves

Edited May 16, 2022 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

We are now entering Session #2.5 (somewhere between 2 and 3). It actually uses a lot of the parts located in Session #5.

 

The goal of this intermediate session, is to build all the details of the hull and gun deck before moving to the main deck with Session #3. Honestly, I think it would be foolish to wait and assemble all the details about the hull in Session #5. There are a lot of things that have to take place before you can close the lid on the main deck and because of the sheer size (and weight ) of the hull.

 

With that in mind, we chose randomly the rudder, fully described and provided in Session #5.

 

 

 

The part above is missing from the kit. I will have to build it since it will take a long time to come from China.

 

And from the book Anatomy of the Ship: 

 

 

My goal is to make the rudder movable and ultimately (if I manage to do it), controlled by the wheel. There are 7 pivots/hinges that are supporting the heavy rudder of Bellona. The kit provides a sandwich of three layers of cherry wood: 

 

 

The end result is way too thick and will prevent the rudder from rotating, unless you open the "grand canyon" on the transom. Instead of using the middle part, I am using a 2 mm strip of wood to create the triangular shape of the rudder. This allows me to keep the laser engraving of the external sides and saves me a ton of sanding.

 

Aligning six or seven pivots can be made but it presents a serious challenge and most likely, the end result will be very stiff and hard to rotate. Instead, I only use the top and bottom support for the articulation and all the other supports are playing a fake role. 

 

 

You can see (above) the finished rudder, with the copper tiles and some of the decals provided in the kit.

 

 

 

 

Above, notice the top and bottom supports. All the other ones are fake and not mechanically active. You can also see the strip of wood inserted at the heart of the sandwich. Rest assured, nothing is visible and in retrospect, I wish I had a 2mm strip of cherry to match the sides of the rudder.

 

The completed rudder, installed on the stern of the ship: 

 

 

 

The rudder rotates freely and I have some hopes to make is steerable using the wheel. It will not be easy as I have to cross through multiple levels of deck.

 

The decals are quite thick, not the kind that you find in plastic model kits. I use Future Floor Pledge as a sub-layer to glue them and another coat of Pledge on top, to seal the decals. It seems to work rather well which is good news, as decals are usually very fragile.

 

Yves

 

 

Edited May 25, 2022 by yvesvidal

[John Ruy]

Beautiful… Nice work Yves. 👍

[Kevin]

you are doing such a fantastic job on her

[mtaylor]

Lovely progress and I like the way you are approaching this.

[Kusawa2000]

On 5/24/2022 at 6:17 PM, yvesvidal said:

We are now entering Session #2.5 (somewhere between 2 and 3). It actually uses a lot of the parts located in Session #5.

 

The goal of this intermediate session, is to build all the details of the hull and gun deck before moving to the main deck with Session #3. Honestly, I think it would be foolish to wait and assemble all the details about the hull in Session #5. There are a lot of things that have to take place before you can close the lid on the main deck and because of the sheer size (and weight ) of the hull.

 

With that in mind, we chose randomly the rudder, fully described and provided in Session #5.

 

 

 

The part above is missing from the kit. I will have to build it since it will take a long time to come from China.

 

And from the book Anatomy of the Ship: 

 

 

My goal is to make the rudder movable and ultimately (if I manage to do it), controlled by the wheel. There are 7 pivots/hinges that are supporting the heavy rudder of Bellona. The kit provides a sandwich of three layers of cherry wood: 

 

 

The end result is way too thick and will prevent the rudder from rotating, unless you open the "grand canyon" on the transom. Instead of using the middle part, I am using a 2 mm strip of wood to create the triangular shape of the rudder. This allows me to keep the laser engraving of the external sides and saves me a ton of sanding.

 

Aligning six or seven pivots can be made but it presents a serious challenge and most likely, the end result will be very stiff and hard to rotate. Instead, I only use the top and bottom support for the articulation and all the other supports are playing a fake role. 

 

 

You can see (above) the finished rudder, with the copper tiles and some of the decals provided in the kit.

 

 

 

 

Above, notice the top and bottom supports. All the other ones are fake and not mechanically active. You can also see the strip of wood inserted at the heart of the sandwich. Rest assured, nothing is visible and in retrospect, I wish I had a 2mm strip of cherry to match the sides of the rudder.

 

The completed rudder, installed on the stern of the ship: 

 

 

 

The rudder rotates freely and I have some hopes to make is steerable using the wheel. It will not be easy as I have to cross through multiple levels of deck.

 

The decals are quite thick, not the kind that you find in plastic model kits. I use Future Floor Pledge as a sub-layer to glue them and another coat of Pledge on top, to seal the decals. It seems to work rather well which is good news, as decals are usually very fragile.

 

Yves

 

 

Yves: So, the decals arent water transfer decals? I still cant get my head around how you apply them to the hull.

 

Mike Draper

[yvesvidal]

1 hour ago, Kusawa2000 said:

Yves: So, the decals arent water transfer decals? I still cant get my head around how you apply them to the hull.

Mike Draper

 

Mike, yes the decals are water transfer, like regular decals. They are simply a lot thicker than what you find in plastic model kits. By the same token, they are also more robust. 

 

To apply: I use Future Floor Pledge as a base coat, to make the paint and the wood more receptive to the flat surface of the decal underside, I place the decal, let it dry and coat is with another light application of Future Floor pledge, by brush.

 

Yves

Edited May 26, 2022 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

A small but noticeable progress on the poop: The rear gunport lids. Once again, you can admire the lack of instructions....very spartan, to say the least.

 

 

The rope is not provided in the kit. The brass eye pins are from Model Shipways, as I find the pins provided with the kit way too large for a gunport lid. The other parts are from the kit PE sheet. All parts and CAD drawings are from the Session #5 box.

 

 

 

Yves

 

Edited May 27, 2022 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

Final touch on the rudder. The part was missing from the kit, so I used a strip of brass and two brass eye pins that I drilled and soldered.

 

 

The part is then soaked into the Black Brass chemical and pinned to the rudder, with four micro nails. The chain is provided in the CAF Model kit and cut in half. It may seem a tad too long and I will adjust the length when the model is completed.

 

 

 

That is all for now, regarding the poop. Rudder and chains can be removed easily and we can now move to another part of the hull, before going back to the "official" Session #3 instructions. 

 

Yves

Edited May 26, 2022 by yvesvidal

[allanyed]

Fantastic build, beautifully done photos Yves

 

Allan