Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[Bob Cleek]

Bob, I really wanted to get off of this.

 

You said:

My copy of Crothers' book has the forward end of the span fastened ahead of where the vector line of the pendant crosses the boom, of that I am sure.  No matter, though.

 

With the span running through a block on the pendant, the vector of the pendant will always fall between the two legs of the span regardless of where the ends of the span are fixed. 

  

Ed

 

Yep, I agree, Ed. We really have flogged the poodle on this one.  However, "in the interests of full disclosure," you are absolutely correct. My bad. It's been a while since I got my "gentleman's C" in geometry, so I had to look it up. What I should have said is that the angles formed by the bridle legs running from the pendant blocks should be obtuse and not acute.

 

Crothers' running rigging diagram is what I meant.  T'was I, as well as the angle, that was obtuse!

 

Beautifully executed work, Ed!

 

 

Edited October 17, 2018 by Bob Cleek

[Bob Cleek]

With a nod to Monty Python, "and now for something completely different..."

 

The sheets control the sweep of the boom.  The boom is also fitted with an inhauler and outhauler that attach to the clew of the spanker sail.  In the absence of sails, the outhauler is stopped at the gooseneck, runs aft over the boom to a sheave near the end, back under the boom to a cleat near the foot, with the remaining line coiled on the roof of the cabin.  The line and boom sheave may be seen in the above photo and the inner end in the next.

 

I'm sure you've placed the spanker outhaul belaying cleat exactly where is shows it's supposed to be on the plans you are following. I'm simply curious if you might know why the cleat is placed on the boom so that it is over the cabin house where hauling it (the direction of the hauling would be forward when tightening the outhaul) would seem to put the seaman hauling it in a most inconvenient position, perched on top of the cabin. This would be particularly so where there is no purchase on the outhaul and tightening it would be done, on the wind at least, by letting the boom luff, and the cleat on the boom consequently swinging further forward over the cabin top, to port or starboard as the case might be, hauling in on the outhaul, belaying it, and then sheeting in the spanker boom?  I would have expected the cleat to be on the boom directly above, or slightly aft of the leading edge of the skylight so a seaman could have his feet on the deck and really put his back into hauling the outhaul and belaying it.

 

Please understand it isn't my intent to pester you. I just find that there is much to learn from the way they rigged these clippers which were pretty much the highest stage of development of rigging technology. There's always a sound reason for everything they did on these vessels and there's so much to learn in discovering why the things we know they did were done.

Edited October 17, 2018 by Bob Cleek

[EdT]

Bob, you seem obsessed with the details of my spanker boom.  Your opinions on these issues could no doubt be debated to exhaustion without adding much to our actual historical knowledge.  I suggest you consult George Campbell, China Clippers, for an example of an underside boom cleat and Jeffers and Muprhy 1849 Nautical Routine for the configuration I used on the boom outhauler – admittedly one possible variation.  Both are reliable sources – among others. You may find these useful before suggesting errors in my rigging decisions on this build log.  That would certainly save me a lot of time in responding to these criticisms, and possibly avoid confusing others following the topic.  I hope you will understand that for this latter reason I find it necessary to rebut at least some of your assertions and that this has become very time consuming – and frankly, not very productive.

[ir3]

Just another two cents. In general, what model is one building. Is it the one from the plans and built to the best standards available at the time of the ship was built. Is it exactly as it was just before launch. This no one will know unless the ship exists today as it was originally built. Is it the same ship that one of the captains decided to make some rigging changes since he didn't like the way the ship handled under certain sea conditions. I understand that some British captains changed rigging and/or rake of masts to help the handling but being against Admiralty orders not to change rigging. I think it is not possible to reproduce a model exactly as originally built.

 

I think we need to let Ed get on with this magnificent build thread and understand that he is building this to the plans set that he has and building to best available standards of the time and incorporating the best of the research that he has done.

 

[rwiederrich]

I agree ir3...it can be nearly impossible to fabricate a model of a vessel as it was originally created from this limited and somewhat diverse time frame.  Changes were happening so fast as were the hull designs that a truly accurate representation is probably very difficult.  Now, unless you are addressing some blatant errors or scale issues....I would defer to the most ardent experts who wrote on the subject...Underhill, Crothers, Campbell...etc.

 

Somethings for representation purposes just have to be accepted.

 

Rob

 

[druxey]

I agree that sometimes, lacking a time machine or specific evidence to the contrary, 'best guess' after extensive research must make do. Annoying for those of us with OCD, but necessary!

[SawdustDave]

Of all the extremely fine modelers I have had the pleasure of learning from over many years visiting MSW, I think EdT would be among the LAST artist I would choose to challenge.

Hope Bob gets the clear message.

 

Cheers

[rwiederrich]

1 hour ago, druxey said:

I agree that sometimes, lacking a time machine or specific evidence to the contrary, 'best guess' after extensive research must make do. Annoying for those of us with OCD, but necessary!

Apart from blatant errors or scale issues....my criticisms generally lay dormant......Cuz... I'm generally a lazy modeler and another's models *clean* construction techniques generally trump my critiques.

 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

29 minutes ago, SawdustDave said:

Of all the extremely fine modelers I have had the pleasure of learning from over many years visiting MSW, I think EdT would be among the LAST artist I would choose to challenge.

Hope Bob gets the clear message.

 

Cheers

If Ed is half the expert of Clipper rigging and architecture as he is a master of modeling technique and skill, he will respectfully accept any criticism of his creations(which he has).  The smartest expert is the one who treasures challenges to his expertise.  And since I see no hands on experts who sailed on clipper ships...the best we can be is an interpreter of history with many holes in it.

 

I believe Bob's *challenge* was not intended to belittle or lower Ed's expertise......but more to the point that some physical dynamics of function might have been overlooked.  No one is perfect.

 

Personally I appreciate Ed's wonderful work...even though I may not do things such as he did...but that is not the point of the Log.

 

It's to enjoy and engage in his wonderful creation.

 

Rob

[cog]

Perhaps you should be left to building YA to your "interpretation/view" as it is your buildlog, Ed. I know of very little people whom give such a detailed, and I think I should say, in depth review of their work, so others can benefit from it ... still enjoy it from the (mostly) silent side line

 

Cheers

[Bob Cleek]

My bad. Carry on, Ed. If your work wasn't the masterful technical modeling tour d' force it is, I wouldn't have bothered commenting. Your patience is appreciated.

[Moab]

Ed; I'm a rookie in this wonderful world of model ships. All I can say it has been a joy following your build and learning so much from it. I sincerely appreciate the added time you spent to photograph your work and then write about it. Thank you, thank you, thank you...Moab

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 305 – Spanker Gaff 2

 

(First a side note: While I very much appreciate some of the supportive comments following my last post, I deeply regret that we are having this dialogue at all.  In the almost 6 years of regular posting on this site I have been very grateful for the comments, questions, suggestions, and yes, the constructive criticism that my work has received.  In return I have done my best to answer all questions, explain detailed aspects of the work, appropriately adopt suggestions for improvement, and to improve the posts based on what followers seem to want.  I truly hope that this will not be disrupted by any of my recent comments.  I wish there were sufficient time to address every comment adequately, even those that require time consuming analysis, careful response, and yes, polite rebuttal.  Unfortunately, time is limited.  I only ask that my need to prioritize be acknowledged.

 

Some basic clarification of the basis of my rigging work may help.  There is no set of plans or definitive data describing the full rigging of Young America.  The ship had a 30 year career, several different owners, and many different captains.  The ship evolved from the extreme clipper concept of her early career to the more mundane plodding of her later years.  Her career spanned a period of major changes in ships' rigs as chain, wire, and new iron fittings emerged.  For these reasons I have never represented that my design is a replica of the actual ship or any other ship.  The design is based on input from the best primary and secondary documented references available to me.  Thanks.)

 

The first picture shows the spanker gaff with all its rigging installed.

 

A simple lashing between eyebolts on the throat was used to fasten the gaff to the spanker mast.  In the picture the two lines slanted down to the deck in an inverted V are the vangs.  These long pendants with tackles control the sweep of the gaff.  A signal halyard is run through a block at the end of the gaff and belays on the iron rail.  The next picture provides a better view of the peak halyard and other rigging to the gaff.

 

The standing end of the peak halyard is fixed to the topmast crosstrees, runs down to a single block near the end of the boom, back through a double block at the cap, through another single block on the gaff, back through the cap block, then down to belay on the mast spider band. 

 

The head outhauler may be seen in the next picture.

 

 

The standing end of the outhauler is stopped under the gaff at the gooseneck.  It then runs under the gaff to the sheave at the end, back through a single block hooked under the port side of the cap, thence to a tackle hooked on the deck and belayed on the port pin rail.  The tackle is long enough to allow the standing end of the line to be hauled out to the end of the gaff.

 

The next picture shows the throat halyard tackle under the top.

 

 

The throat halyard tackle that was used to raise the entire gaff is hooked under the port trestletree and to the throat of the gaff.  The fall then runs down along the mast to be belayed on the spider band.  The picture also shows the head outhauler stopped off in the block under the gaff throat band.  The line stopped in this block is the head inhaul (or downhaul) used to take in the sail at the top.  This line also runs down to a tackle on the deck aft of the throat tackle.  The next picture shows the two tackles.  The inhaul tackle is almost block-to-block since the inhaul is fully overhauled to the gaff throat – waiting for a sail.

 

 

It will be nice to get rid of this unsightly masking tape but for now it is a lifesaver in keeping rope and other debris out of the decks below.

 

 

Ed

[Tigersteve]

I can’t wait to see how all this modeling content pans out in the next volume! Excellent work. 

Steve

[paulsutcliffe]

Well said Ed, fantastic work as usual ( don't forget the arrows ha!!) seriously though what you are doing is awesome and a pleasure to read/watch along 

Regards

Paul

[michael mott]

Ed I am constantly amazed by the amount of detail that you are incorporating into this model, It is making me want to revisit everything I thought I needed to know about rigging. And how innovative were the sailors of earlier times in making the wind and cloth work for them as efficiently as possible.

 

Michael

[rwiederrich]

10 hours ago, EdT said:

Some basic clarification of the basis of my rigging work may help.  There is no set of plans or definitive data describing the full rigging of Young America.  The ship had a 30 year career, several different owners, and many different captains.  The ship evolved from the extreme clipper concept of her early career to the more mundane plodding of her later years.  Her career spanned a period of major changes in ships' rigs as chain, wire, and new iron fittings emerged.  For these reasons I have never represented that my design is a replica of the actual ship or any other ship.  The design is based on input from the best primary and secondary documented references available to me.  Thanks.)

This is indeed so true of these clipper vessels...rigging was being invented as were nearly every aspect of them....the theme of speed left no area or subject untouched.  As you have aptly pointed out, in the short lives of many  clippers, their look took on(In some cases extreme) adaptations or improvements.  My own experience(And clippers are all I model) has taught me this very important lesson.

Thank you for enduring my own criticisms and questions.  It was never about your work or your attention to detail or mastery of wood/metal working in such small scales.

 

We are all blessed you have taken your time to share your build with us.

 

Rob

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 306 – Fore Topgallant Yard 2

 

While the spanker rigging was going on, I also worked on rigging the fore topgallant yard.  In the first picture most of the ironwork has been fitted as well as the fore royal sheet chains.

 

 

At this scale these chains are well under the size of any available chain by a factor of more than 2.  As with other small chains shown earlier, these were made by twisting a doubled loop of wire by approximately the correct number of turns for its length – assuming one turn per 2 links - an imprecise process for sure.  The next picture shows a closer view of the chain and the sheet block under the center of the yard.

 

After erecting the yard and completing its rigging, I decided to replace this chain with a slightly heavier version. I will show it in a later post.

 

In the next picture, the yard's halyard - a somewhat larger twisted wire chain - has been passed through the topgallant mast sheave with a pin inserted to hold it in place.

 

 

The chain may be seen just behind the mast in this picture.  The position held by the temporary pin is set to suspend the yard just above the topmast cap.  The chain halyard runs down behind the mast to a tackle shown in the next picture.

 

The tackle is long enough to allow the yard to be hauled up to its full height.  In the next picture, the yard with all its bench-installed rigging has been mounted on the mast. 

 

 

The halyard, slanting out due to its stiffness (see arrow), has not yet been connected at the sling band. Bunt and leech lines were routed down the mast before erecting the yard and may be seen draped from their double blocks above.  The wire chain sheets are doing their own thing.  Twisted wire behaves exactly opposite actual chain, which drapes beautifully in graceful curves.  Wire chain has to be carefully shaped to do so.  This will be done later after the loose ends are connected to the royal clue lines. 

 

In the next picture, the halyard chain has been connected to the sling band, the bunt and leech lines are rigged and the clew lines are connected to the chain sheets below.

 

 

The royal sheet chains described above, were the first to be connected after the halyard, so that these could be used to pull down the yard.  The next picture shows the halyard and its eyebolt as well as the two chain sheets hauled down below the sheet block.

 

The thin chain sheets (later replaced) may be seen in front of the mast in this picture.  Each leg is connected to a rope line that runs down to belay on the main rail, port and starboard.  The bunt, leech, and clew lines run down inside the shrouds, through shroud fairleads and belay on those rails as well.  The next picture shows these lines running through the top fairleads.

 

 

All these fairlead holes are starting to fill up.  The arrow in the picture points to the halyard chain.  The main rail pins are also filling up as shown in the next picture.

 

Finally, a view of the model in its present state.

 

Ed

 

Edited October 25, 2018 by EdT

[wefalck]

I have also been battling with the subject of very small chains (actually chain rails in 1:160 scale) and found a (for the moment at least) reasonably satisfactory solution by twisting together two strands of wire of the scale thickness of the wire from which the chain would have been made - as you did, but then twisting two strands of these twisted wires together in the opposite direction. Looks reasonably close to a twisted chain ... no pictures yet, as I did only some experiments.

Edited October 22, 2018 by wefalck

[davyboy]

Hello Ed,

That second last photo WOW. Looking at that one could almost believe you are standing on the deck of the real ship. Wonderful work indeed.

 

Kind regards,

 

Dave 

[rwiederrich]

Absolutely Amazingly....beautiful Ed.

I was wondering how you were going to run the sheets...but it appears you shackle them to rope then run that down to purchase and to a pin on the rail.....? or is that just the haul?

 

Sweet.

 

Rob

Edited October 22, 2018 by rwiederrich

[Dowmer]

Beautiful work Ed.  I especially appreciate the arrows you have added to draw our attention through the web of lines.

 

By the way, the natural droop of the chain you refer to is called a "Catenary" curve. 

 

Cheers,

 

 

 

[EdT]

Wefalck, I was so intrigued by your idea that I immediately tried it with 36 gauge copper wire.  Here is the result:

 

A little out of focus using only my iPhone, but very credible - and with a little work.... worth some further exploration.

 

Rob, it depends on the size of the sail.  The topsails run to triple purchase tackles - at the deck for the lowers (or singles), at the top for the uppers, which have short travel.  The topgallants run down to a simple whip from the deck, the royals and skys go directly to pins.

 

Ed

[Moab]

Ed; I'm a rookie in this wonderful world of model ships. All I can say it has been an immense joy following your build and learning so much from it. I sincerely appreciate the added time you spent to photograph your work and then write about it. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Your photos are great especially the one that appears that a person standing on the deck snapped the pix...Moab

[paulsutcliffe]

Hi Ed

I have to agree with Dave above, that second to last photo looks like its taken on a/the real ship, awesome

And again thanks for the arrows

Regards

Paul

[cog]

Ed,

Instead of twisting wire, I have knotted yarn of the approximate thickness, which came rather close to the desired result. Come to think of it, it's what may turn out what I need for my current build

[wefalck]

I've tried yarn as well, but it doesn't look as smooth as wire. A possibility would be black monofilament, but it is not so easy to knot in knots that don't open again and into equal knots.

[BANYAN]

I have been away for a little while and must say it is a joy to see the progress of this very fine model; as usual you have done a superb job on modelling and researching this fine ship.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 307 – Small Yard Arm Bands

 

Up until this point, the eyebolts in spar bands, including yardarm bands have been inserted and glued into holes drilled through the bands and into the wooden spar.  This provides a strong eyebolt connection and anchors the band securely on the spar.  On smaller yards the diameters at the ends are quite small, approaching 1/16" at 1:72.  Drilling through the mounted band becomes more difficult at these sizes and drilled holes into the small spar weaken it.  A different method was adopted for the fore royal yard and will be used on other smaller spars.  Yet another method will be used on the very small skysail yards.

 

In the first picture, eyebolt holes are being drilled into a length of copper tube with an ID slightly smaller than the fore royal yard arm.

 

A slight flat was filed on the top surface of the tube and the drill bit projection kept short to reduce the tendency of the bit to "skate" on the round surface.  When the necessary holes were drilled, twisted wire eyebolts were inserted and silver-soldered into the tube.  Before soldering the eyebolts the OD of the tube was filed to reduce its thickness.  In the next picture the eyebolt protrusions into the tube are being ground out using a small diamond grit bur.

 

The end of this tube was then sawed off to produce the yard arm band.  In the next picture a hardened steel mandrel and a wood block are being used to restore the round shape of the band and to begin its enlargement into a tight fit over the end of the spar.

 

Final enlargement of the band was done as shown in the next picture by lightly tapping the band with a hammer using the vise jaws as an anvil – until the band was just large enough to be pressed on to the yard.

 

The next picture shows the band fitted to the royal yardarm.

 

The band was later removed for polishing before final installation.  The other fabrication steps on this yard follow those described earlier so I will skip those steps.  Note that the yard has been drilled for jackstay stanchions and for the skysail sheet sheaves, which have yet to be carved out.  As with other yards, all copper ironwork was blackened on the yard as described in earlier posts.

 

The last two pictures illustrate the replacement of the royal sheet chains on the topgallant yard.  This change was mentioned in the last post.   The first picture shows the new, slightly larger, royal sheet chains installed on the yard.

 

This work was done in place, requiring removal of the old chain, re-threading of the sheet block, and re-connection of the two rope falls below the block.  Ratlines on the topgallant shrouds – and other areas - are a work in progress.  The last picture shows the new twisted wire chain at the port side of the yard.

 

 

The twisted wire chain is stiff, so it stands up by itself and will need to be shaped later – along with all the foot ropes and stirrups.  The pin in this picture anchors the chain in the sheave temporarily to allow the loops below the yard to be initially sized and shaped. 

 

Ed

[rwiederrich]

Fantastic....I'm not sure but did you ever describe your method for making the long twisted wire sheets, and halyards?  I have an idea, but would like to know your method.

They are quite even and clean.

 

Rob