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African Queen by gjdale (Grant) - Billing Boats (modified) - Scale 1:12 - RADIO - Live Steam


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Introduction

I have long had a hankering to build a small launch with live steam propulsion. The African Queen seemed to be an ideal choice of subject, however finding a kit to modify proved somewhat elusive. In the end, I settled on the Billings offering in 1:12 scale as it claims to be suitable for Radio Control (albeit using an electric motor). Here is a picture of the box art.

 

001CoverArt.jpeg.59753972f66b08efe8b6fe061d825bbd.jpeg

 

 

The next challenge was finding a steam plant suitable for inclusion in the model. After an exhaustive search, I settled on a complete steam plant from Miniature Steam Models (MSM) in Melbourne, Australia. It is a 2” boiler with the “Avon” twin cylinder double acting oscillating steam engine. The steam plant comes complete with a boiler certificate and the engine is matched to the size of the boiler. For the tech heads, it has an 8mm bore and an 11mm stroke (and it is reversing). Overall, it is very similar in size to the “fake” boiler/engine plant provided in the Billings kit.

 

Here are a couple of pictures of the steam plant as provided from MSM.

 

002SteamPlant1.jpeg.f1b54dac7988c68efb0da9652a400a1d.jpeg

 

003SteamPlant2.jpeg.55ba4c82709c89f71485761d4ebf3225.jpeg

 

 

 

What’s in the box?

The Billings kit is fairly typical of the Billings offerings. The hull is provided as a single-piece vacuum formed ABS mould. The rest of the kit includes a variety of laser cut plywood parts, some strip wood (not particularly high quality), some brass components and some plastic components. As I will not be using the provided boiler/engine parts, a lot of these will be redundant.

 

I was concerned by the apparent flimsiness of the hull, and my plan is to sheath the hull in timber, and then fibreglass over the top of that. To this end, I have obtained some 1mm thick Alaskan Yellow Cedar from Hobby Mill EU to be cut into planks as appropriate.

 

I will also be adding some aftermarket timber for the deck planking, as the kit would have you simple draw planking lines onto the provided plywood. I’m currently in the process of placing an order for this with Hobby Mill EU.

 

Instructions are, I believe, typical of Billings – which is to say, next to useless. This is not a kit for a beginner, although it is marketed as “Advanced Beginner”. We shall have to see whether I have sufficient skills to pull this off – otherwise, there is considerable investment “down the tube”.

 

The Hull

Here are a couple of pictures of the ABS hull. 

 

004Hull1.jpeg.0660bfbe7b65d82a055ef2a3e8537908.jpeg

 

005Hull2.jpeg.ed72c95ecc907d87a5b9367bc11d2ed2.jpeg

 

As can be seen in the pictures, there is a considerable excess lip around the upper edge. I will need to remove the vertical component of this before I can do anything else. My current plan is to do that, and then fit the internal frames to provide some stiffening before attempting the outer planking.

 

Welcome aboard for what might prove to be an "interesting" journey!

 

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I'm in for this journey, lead on. 

Current Builds:  1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                             Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                             Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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Thanks Steven,

 

That is of course the first thing I did - search the forums, but the search turns up no actual build logs - only a completed model in the gallery and some discussion about plans and figures. I’ve also tried other forums, but to no avail. If anyone can point me to an actual build log, that would be very much appreciated.

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Grant, I'm in. Anything with Bogart and Hepburn, I'll follow too. Will you include figures?

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Thanks Ken,

 

Yes, that is the plan, and if I can pull it off, the figures will contain concealed servos….. (an idea I picked up from someone else). That said, this will be an evolving build and some of my current plans may change as we go, either by necessity or to be replaced by another TGI (Thundering Good Idea)!

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Grant, this is one I found.... yep... just one.   Probably the same thing you found. 

 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Grant,

 

That looks like a great project, and based on a very good movie with great actors.

 

Miniature Steam Models (MSM) in Melbourne, Australia    I had a look at their website...they do a lot of good stuff.

 

I'll follow your build keenly - all the best.

 

Richard

 

PS: Some great quotes from the movie here .... https://www.classicmoviehub.com/quotes/film/the-african-queen-1951/page/1/

 

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Sorry I couldn’t be of more help to you on the African Queen model. I built mine many years ago before I joined this forum. I remember it was a fairly easy build until I tried to run it on steam. The little oscillating steam engine wouldn’t move the boat at all. So the I cheated by disconnecting the steam engine and adding an electric motor. The boat then ran perfectly. I could fire the boiler and get the steam going while the electric motor did the work. Very satisfying

experience..Good luck on your build. 

Ras

 

Current builds:

Stern Paddle Wheeler ZULU-1916-1/48 scale

Previous builds:

Freccia Celeste-1927 350cc racing motorcycle-1:9 scale-Protar kit

Boeing B17F- 1/72 scale- Hasegawa kit

HMS Mimi-scale 1/24-Fast Motor Launch                               

Amapá 1907-1/64 scale-Brazilian Customs Cruiser

Scottish Motor Fifie. 1/32 scale. Amati kit

Patricia. Steam powered R/C launch. 1/12 scale. Krick Kit

African Queen. Steam powered  R/C launch. 1/24 scale. Billings ki

Emma C. Berry. Sailing fishing smack. 1/32 scale. Model Shipways kit.

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Thanks Ras,

 

I’ll keep that in mind as a “fix” if needed. Hopefully the steam plant I have will do the trick.

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I am firmly onboard for this build, Grant. I too have fancied a steam powered model and have looked carefully at the Alexandria by Krick models. However, I know I would be in way over my head trying to build a steam powered RC model. I'll be following along intently as you work your way through this one.

 

Good luck, Grant. I'm sure you'll build another showpiece to add to your ever expanding, eclectic assortment of models!

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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Thanks Bob,

 

Always nice to have you along for the ride. 🙂

 

Speaking of rides, have you been on your bicycle lately? I find myself riding more and more often nowadays - sometimes 5 or 6 days per week.

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12 hours ago, gjdale said:

Speaking of rides, have you been on your bicycle lately?

Yes, I'm still riding but I'm off to a slower start than normal this year due to a busy calendar of other activities and travel. I've been getting out for 35 mile rides 3-4 times a week but haven't gotten into the hills and mountains yet this season. We just got home yesterday from traveling and I'll be able to ride more regularly for while until we start traveling again in a couple of months. I'm typically doing some rides of 50 to 75 miles with significant elevation gains by this time of the year. I'm still in love with my Trek Émonda. It's a pure joy to ride and worth every penny!   

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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Bob,

 

Jumping in on the bike tangent. I used to have a steel framed Trek 930 Singletrack .... it was the best mountain bike I ever had. Unfortunately, even after regular servicing the inside of the frame started to rust away so it was too dangerous to risk using it. I replaced it with a Marin Rock Springs - good but no 930.

 

You are doing a very good milage per week. I need to start getting out on my bike more. 

 

Richard

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5 hours ago, BobG said:

I'm still in love with my Trek Émonda. It's a pure joy to ride and worth every penny!   

 

Great to hear Bob. I’m still in love with my Trek Domane+ too. 🙂

 

Now, back to regular programming….

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  • 2 weeks later...

A few distractions have kept me out of the shipyard lately, but progress has been made. Time for a minor update to show "proof of life".

 

I had been pondering the selection of glue for attaching the AYC planks to the ABS hull. In my LHS, I came across this chart from Bob Smith Industries.

 

006BSIChart.jpeg.9c659f81331469c55638aac7e8cd2862.jpeg

 

As can be seen, there is a happy intersection for both Hardwood and Hard Plastics with the Maxi-Cure Superglue, showing up as “Best Performance” in the chart. As I needed to replenish some other glues as well, I decided to do a comparative test with both a Thin and a Medium Odorless “Super-Gold” (both listed as “Good Performance” in the chart).

 

007BSIGluesTest1.jpeg.403f1a1e4026ecefb4d642e82f360c50.jpeg

 

My test comprised using some scraps of the ABS (from cutting the vertical waste section away from the hull) and some scraps of AYC. The guy in the LHS suggested scuffing the ABS with some coarse sandpaper first, so I incorporated both scuffed and un-scuffed into the trial.

 

008BSIGluesTest2.jpeg.29d80887c89001ddd280cce28019d7f0.jpeg

 

The glue was applied, and the pieces were left lightly clamped overnight. The results were quite impressive. The only real failure was the “Thin” Super-Gold. All other glues held and there was no discernible difference between scuffing the ABS and not scuffing it.

 

009BSIGluesTest3.jpeg.990ebf79a03d81d4a2946acfad40ccb5.jpeg

 

On the strength of that test, I was happy to proceed using the Maxi-Cure without scuffing.

 

Contrary to my previous post, I decided that prior to installing the internal supports, it would be useful to attach the Sheer plank while the excess horizontal ABS was still in place so that it could be used as a reference. The excess could then be trimmed off, which would make clamping the internal supports easier. I also decided that it would be easier to attach the Garboard and at least the first (lower) band of hull planks before attaching the Sheer.

 

The ABS formed hull has moulding lines that I will use as de facto “bands” for planking. The maximum width of most of these is about 42mm, so I have ripped my AYC boards into 14mm widths, meaning that there will be three planks in all of the “bands” bar one, which will receive four planks. I was then able to do a form of lining off by marking on the ABS hull where each band narrowed to a convenient measurement - ie a multiple of three (or four) as appropriate. These marks can now be transferred to the planks to assist with tapering. I’m using a small block plane to taper the planks, and this is proving to be both easy and quick. In the picture below, the forward end of the Garboard plank has been tapered and shaped. A small travel iron was used to create some preliminary bend, and then the Maxi-cure glue applied to the plank. It was only necessary to apply finger pressure for a few seconds while the glue grabbed. 

 

P7280006.jpeg.f0e3b2c94e36af5b1adf07c378d6561d.jpeg

 

Given that I’m making it up as I go along, I’m happy with how that one went, so will continue with this method. 

 

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Grant,

 

Interesting insight into the Bob Smith glues, thanks.

 

I see that BSI is based in California and has a distributor in the UK.  Most of the SuperGlues I use are made by Loctite or Gorilla.

 

Anyway, did a little reading on the history of SuperGlues ... https://tangibleday.com/the-history-of-super-glue-crazy-or-genius/  ... I didn't know that Eastman first discovered superglue, but I did know about the Vietnam link.

 

Richard

Edited by Rik Thistle
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  • 4 weeks later...

It seems that my modelling mojo has been having a little holiday of late, however there is some progress to report - albeit little more than "proof of life". I have completed the first band of four strakes of planking per side. Three more bands to go, each of three strakes.

 

011FirstPlankingBand.jpeg.80195d3a0413b2bf7c079582b0fa908a.jpeg

 

I will now move my attention to the Sheer strake and work down from there. The trickiest part will be the final band that contains the turn of the bilge.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great project, Grant! I do recall seeing a build log of Billing AQ years ago where the builder found suitable 1/12 scale figures (which is a common dollhouse scale) to represent Bogart and a seated Hepburn. Hepburn was fantastic but Bogart required some painted stubble to age him a bit. I don't see it here so maybe it was on the old Pete Coleman "Victory" site...... at any rate I look forward to seeing your build and especially how you RC a steam plant.

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  • 6 months later...

I can’t believe that it has been almost five months since I updated this build log. Life has thrown a few unexpected twists and turns my way recently, and it has only been in the last few weeks that I have felt remotely interested in returning to the modelling desk. 

 

I can at last report that the hull planking is complete – at least as far as the initial sanding. I still need to go back and apply some filler into the inevitable gaps, but overall, I’m reasonably happy with the how this has turned out. A couple of overview shots to show progress as well as ‘proof of life’.

 

012HullPlankingComplete1.jpeg.077a1c3c0042b93dd9f114cc47d015f4.jpeg

 

013HullPlankingComplete2.jpeg.f9d301b7bb5953bbf894e51cabb13c26.jpeg

 

I’ll proceed with some filler and a final sanding before I trim back the excess ABS around the top of the hull. Hopefully it will not be another five months before the next update!

 

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Good to see you back building another soon-to-be exquisite model, Grant, and I'm glad to hear that life is moving along smoother for you after some "unexpected twists." Life has a way of doing that especially as we get older it seems. 

 

I went through a bit of rough patch beginning late last November. I developed a severe case of peripheral neuropathy after my last Covid vaccination. Fortunately, it eased up and eventually went away by mid-January but it certainly threw a wrench in life for me for a while. I was beginning to think the warranty had finally run out. Anyway, glad to see back building this interesting model. Hope you're enjoying that beautiful Trek too. All the best, Grant.

 

 

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A minor update. Have completed filling and sanding the hull. Now ready to trim back the excess ABS and get on with the build (I think....).

 

014Hullfilledandsanded1.jpeg.8638d67b8271f7d6a8084bd32464ecc9.jpeg

 

015Hullfilledandsanded2.jpeg.e2185c8f6b2f1a899b2e95a2e3e8102b.jpeg

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I have decided to hold off on trimming the excess ABS from the topsides. After reading a caution from another member (Wayne @a49kid) doing this build, I decided it would be prudent to test the fit of the deck. As can be seen in the photo below, it is not a very close fit. It only just reaches at the stern and does not follow the line of the gunwhale very well at all. I will therefore keep the ABS intact for now.

 

016DeckTestFit.jpeg.391b6fda23d39cb742d138962864d5e5.jpeg

 

I also decided to diverge from the sequence given in the instructions and fit the internal floor frames prior to fitting the inboard gunwhale and upper frames.

 

017InternalFrames1.jpeg.1951787c9baa3e45e4e174a03a24c804.jpeg

 

After fitting the longitudinal stringers, I read in Wayne’s log where he found that he had to move the stringers outboard to accommodate the additional width of the(non-kit) steam engine. So, some minor surgery, a visit to the scrap box for spares, and a little fettling was required to account for this.

 

018InternalFrames2.jpeg.3d6a637e0deeb0a8506305e709c16771.jpeg

 

And the steam engine now fits comfortably (just placed temporarily in position for the photo).

 

019SteamEngineTestFit.jpeg.6235cc54a9e03b257d2e17117ce05fe7.jpeg

 

I'm glad that Wayne is ahead of me in progressing his build - I will be able to learn from his encounters and hopefully avoid any more traps!

 

 

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Hi Grant, and you are progressing well too. Now a couple of things.
Re top pic, the position of the deck, the nose piece, (I'm not a boat man) suggest glue the 2 plastic pieces together and dry fit.
If you glue it in too early, it is a pain when working on the boat deck down.
And check the position of the deck.

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