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Bugatti Type 35B by CDW - FINISHED - Italeri - 1:12 Scale


CDW

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That engine  looks  so sweet.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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40 minutes ago, CDW said:

Guess what new kit comes out this month (it's already released for sale in Germany)? I have one on backorder at Hannants.

 

 

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"Nice y nice y"    that  looks  like a  gem.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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11 minutes ago, Twokidsnosleep said:

This is going together very nicely with some excellent modelling skills

Fit and finish look really good

Built a Revival T35 version and it was a wrestling match the entire way through 

Thanks Scott.

I was kinda worried about the chassis alignment, keeping it straight and true/not warped but as it turns out, Italeri engineered the kit to self-align with the fit of the engine block and body pan. There are some small screws in strategic locations that keeps everything on the straight and narrow. Seems as though Italeri took their game to a higher level with this kit. Besides that, I doubt that any other kit maker will offer a Bugatti Type 35 at this scale and at this price point. I think I paid around $150 for it through Amazon. The epic MFH version of it fetches around $800 or more. If somebody like Tamiya did one, my guess is it would sell for something north of $300.

 

Craig

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3 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

Craig, that is so interesting. I had never realized that the panels were attached together, using these pins and wire technique. 

Detailing that aspect, would make your model quite unique.

 

Yves

The Model Factory Hiro kit comes with those details as parts of the assembly of the model. It's a small detail but I think it would make the model more interesting. Need to look for some very fine silver wire although I do have some fine copper wire.

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Pulling off a convincing bolt and lock-wire job at that scale would be something.

Remember the wire is 2 strand twisted.

Looking at the photo it appears each section of panel wiring is one continuous run; someone must have had fun with that.

It's usual to wire bolts/nuts in pairs. There should be a diagonal bias, so the wire stops the fastener unwinding.....it's only reason for being there at all.

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48 minutes ago, shipman said:

There should be a diagonal bias, so the wire stops the fastener unwinding.....it's only reason for being there at all.

Yep, they do this to aircraft engines all the time... (and to aircraft skins before the advent of flush riveting)

And, it's not really a bias, it done in opposition to the way the fastener turns... Think about it for a sec, the bolt or nut turns right handed to tighten, left hand to loosen, so the wire will run from the bottom side of one hex head to the top side of the next hex head on the left preventing either from turning left handed...

 

But this is the first time I've seen such done for an entire line of bolts or screws continuously... (usually done in pairs)

 

Beautiful work so far Craig...

Edited by Egilman

Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale

In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale

Completed: M8A1 HST  1930 Packard Boattail Speedster  M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer  F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C

Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433  F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale

Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter

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2 hours ago, shipman said:

Pulling off a convincing bolt and lock-wire job at that scale would be something.

Remember the wire is 2 strand twisted.

Looking at the photo it appears each section of panel wiring is one continuous run; someone must have had fun with that.

It's usual to wire bolts/nuts in pairs. There should be a diagonal bias, so the wire stops the fastener unwinding.....it's only reason for being there at all.

 

1 hour ago, Egilman said:

Yep, they do this to aircraft engines all the time... (and to aircraft skins before the advent of flush riveting)

And, it's not really a bias, it done in opposition to the way the fastener turns... Think about it for a sec, the bolt or nut turns right handed to tighten, left hand to loosen, so the wire will run from the bottom side of one hex head to the top side of the next hex head on the left preventing either from turning left handed...

 

But this is the first time I've seen such done for an entire line of bolts or screws continuously... (usually done in pairs)

 

Beautiful work so far Craig...

Thanks for the input guys. Very interesting.

If I stay true to the particular subject I'm modeling, the unrestored winner of the '29 Monaco GP, I would not do the safety wires at all as it didn't have them. Probably removed somewhere down through the years I guess. I need to think this over as I may regret adding it later.

Side View zoom.jpg

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2 hours ago, Egilman said:

But this is the first time I've seen such done for an entire line of bolts or screws continuously... (usually done in pairs)

 

That will be challenging work.    As for the method, it appears to me that as it is each pair of screws is wired and not the whole line of them.   I had to copy and enlarge the image it's the body panel joint at that level that looks like wire.    Way back in military days, safety wiring was done either way depending but it was far easier to do pairs.  And the inspectors (QC) seemed to prefer it also.   

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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The body panels were made of aluminum. The lower body pan had a number of ejector pin marks that needed filling. For the first time, tried using Mr Disolved Putty. It goes down readily with a paint brush and is self leveling. After it dries is easy to sand. After allowing the putty to dry over night, sanded it down and primed the pan with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. Ready for aluminum paint then weathering. I should mention this car has no floorboard. The body pan is the floorboard. Weird to me but that’s the way it was/is.

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Very nice progress Craig and I learn a lot about the real thing. Definitely an interesting car.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

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A lot of good progress.  The "Mr. Dissolved Putty" looks interesting, I had not heard of that though I've recently used some of the Mr Color paints for the first time and liked them.  I've used the Tamiya putty in a tube but it can be difficult to apply smoothly and is often required in places that are difficult to sand well.  It sounds like this stuff might be a better solution.

 

- Gary

 

Current Build: Artesania Latina Sopwith Camel

Completed Builds: Blue Jacket America 1/48th  Annapolis Wherry

 

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After painting the radiator core halves flat black, I masked them off with Heller Maskol then assembled the chrome radiator halves. I used a 12,000 grit polishing sponge to dull down the chrome before painting the chrome with a light coat of Mr Metal Color gold. Once dry, polished down the metalized gold so that some of the chrome shows through in an effort to make it appear to be old chrome plating that was worn away after many decades of time. That nasty seam at the top of the radiator gets covered with a photo etch piece later on.

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The worn effect on the radiator looks fantastic Craig. This seems to develop into a clinic of wear and tear and I'm all eyes and ears, as I really like studying these effects.

 

Cheers Rob

Current builds:   
                             Shelby Cobra Coupe by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/12 
                             McLaren Mp4/6 - Ayrton Senna - Fujimi - 1/20 - paused
                             Duchess of Kingston - paused 
                             

Finished builds: F4U-1A Corsair - Tamiya 1/32

                             USS Arizona 1/350 Eduard
                             Caudron C.561 French Racing Plane 1/48
                             Nachtigall on Speed Arado 234 B-2N by DocRob - 1/32 - Fly

                             Renault RE20 Turbo - Tamiya - 1/12
                             P-38J Wicked Woman - Tamiya - 1/48
                             AEG G.IV Creature of the Night - WNW - 1/32
                             "Big Tank" Crocker OHV motorcycle by DocRob - Model Factory Hiro - 1/9

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5 hours ago, DocRob said:

The worn effect on the radiator looks fantastic Craig. This seems to develop into a clinic of wear and tear and I'm all eyes and ears, as I really like studying these effects.

 

Cheers Rob

Thanks Rob. I’m having fun experimenting with this as well. It’s something I rarely ever attempt to do, showing age wear and grime.

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Excellent work  Craig.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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