HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794

[Beef Wellington]

Thanks for the encouragement gents, certainly helps one stay motivated.

 

Channels:

 

I realize I'm continuing to bounce around, so apologies if this is not the most sequential log.  Have been continuing to work on the deck fittings, none of which are glued in place yet (posts to come), but diverted to the channels.  I think it will makes sense to have the channels and chains in place before any of the cannons are finally fitted - they just seem to be  too exposed to not court disaster.  This seems a "damned if you do, damned if you don't" situation so any advise here would be gratefully received.

 

I'd share the approach to the channels in an earlier post, so luckily work was more just final finishing.  I wanted to introduce the rather pleasing profile on the edge as it seems to reduce the perceived bulk of the channel noticeably to my eye.   I have to say, this has been some of the most challenging 'scraper work' I've yet done.  Getting clean (or as clean as I can!) edges on all of the compound curvatures, as well as dealing with scraping across end grains at the fore and aftmost faces proved a real challenge.  To add to this, I realized that the batten that keeps the chains in place also needs to be profiled.  I'm taking the approach of temporarily gluing the batten in place, profiling, and then will de-bond using rubbing alcohol.  The thinking being that once these are shaped, it should be relatively straightforward to glue permanently once the deadeyes and chains are in position.  Each one will be carefully notated so I can match them up again.  I've put on a very thin coat of wipe on poly to enhance the visibility of the profiles surface and see where I am...there will definitely need to be a little fine tuning once all are done, bit hopefully this illustrates.

 

 

I'm following the NMM plans as closely as I can, which show both the initial draft with open quarterdeck, as well as the changes when the quarterdeck bulwark was built up.  Not only does the position of the channels change, but the alignment of the chains.  Not having had the plans earlier, I had used the kit supplied template as a foundation.....  I have now reached the point in the build that every Artois class builder doing an open bulwark version seams to reach, which is the realization that the position of the quarterdeck ports  need to be modified - wish I'd ordered the NMM plans sooner.  The gunport openings changed when the position of the channels was changed with the addition of the built up bulwark.  This will require the position of the gun ports to be corrected.  How I wish that I had simply planked over the kit template rather than planking around the ports, it would have made a fix unnecessary.  I'm moving on while I consider how best to do this.

 

 

 

Edited October 1, 2018 by Beef Wellington

[Beef Wellington]

Destruction...

 

Need to jump in and get going with the destruction to correct the gun ports so this doesn't derail me.  There will be 3 or 4 ports per side that need to be moved, so doing individually would not make sense.  Fortuitously, I had used a strip of 6mm wide box for the uppermost strake.  With one minor exception, the rough cut ports don't extend below this so replacing this one strake seems to be the way to go.

 

Started off on the port side using isopropyl alcohol and a sharp blade to try to pry the 1mm thick strip from the 1.5mm thick template.  Although I eventually got there, its a real dogs breakfast (mess).  I just couldn't get the isopropyl to penetrate where I needed it sufficiently without compromising the surrounding structures (the template is laminate strip which will de-bond as well if too much isopropyl is used).  As you can see in the pictures, a couple of shards got stripped away in the process where the box strip had been edge glued and but not sufficiently softened.  The isopropyl also got onto the painted surface below and marred the finish, so this will need touching up.  Once replaced, filled and finished, hoping this will not be noticeable.

 

 

Before tackling the starboard side, the approach needed to be amended to allow the isopropyl to penetrate more thoroughly and evenly.  Took a  while, drilled a multitude of holes in the strake to be removed and then applied the isopropyl.  Despite taking a while to drill, this was SO much easier and gave a MUCH cleaner result.  It also allowed the glued edges to soften sufficiently to debond cleanly.  Now the scary part is over, the strake can be replaced and the template ports filled before getting back to where I was with the channels....

 

 

 

Edited October 2, 2018 by Beef Wellington

[Old Collingwood]

Its amazing what it can take to rectify a problem  - but so pleased for you that you got it sorted.

 

OC.

Edited October 2, 2018 by Old Collingwood

[robdurant]

You're making me wonder whether my qd ports are in the right places now.... but I think I used the NMM plans so hopefully we're good. I'll have to check.

 

That's a neat solution with the isopropyl. I'm sure you'll do a great job of the rework and it will be impossible to tell you needed to once it's done. 

[Kevin]

i quess that at the end of their life no two hulls resembled the original plans for the class, 

[BANYAN]

Your 'destruction' seems to have been very successful mate; looks good.  You got a very nice profile onto the leading edges of those channels too, they look very good.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Ferit]

Jason, it had been even excellent work which you didn't like and demolish... 😨

Edited October 3, 2018 by Ferit KUTLU

[Beef Wellington]

Well I'm back on track at least after the destruction, painful, but glad its behind me....

 

The bigger channels are completed now and ready to be glued into position, I'll be leaving the attachment of the smaller channels for the topmast backstays until after the quarterdeck is glued into position.  A final finish has been put on the hull, which means that I can now start to put some of the detailing in place in conjunction with fitting the chains.  There seem to be a number of position where space will be tight, so fingers crossed previous planning works out.

 

For reference, I've marked out the expected position of the quarterdeck ports (and the previous template position with a dotted line) but will not be cutting these out until the quarterdeck is in place.  This shows them in relation to the actual position of the deadeyes, with a bit of imagination (I used string and a mock up of the masts) its clear that the previous port locations would be obscured (the second and third from the stern are the tricky ones).  Even though not obscured, the 4th port from the rear was moved so the port separation is equalized as much as possible.  My advice to anyone modifying the kit (or even building from the box) is to leave the positioning and cutting out of any these quarterdeck ports until after the final position of the deadeyes is known.

 

Unfortunately, the PE hinges supplied in the kit are too small and dimension, and too bulky, for the sizes of the sweep/airing ports estimated from the AOTS plans.  Luckily I had purchased a PE set for (I think!) the HMS Grenado way back and it contains some useable hinges.  These smaller PE sets are pretty reasonably priced, and I've found can be handy to have as they contain a multitude of potentially useful fittings (hooks etc.) which can be used to supplement the older 'bare bones' CC kit PE sets.

 

These were given a few coats of paint to bulk them up a bit as although they are theoretically the same scale, the ports on Grenado are of smaller dimension.  Placement on the airing ports proved a little challenging due to the elevated profile of the black-strake that runs through these. 

 

Edited October 18, 2018 by Beef Wellington

[jim_smits]

On catch up and worked through your log again. 

Fantastic work Jason. 

[Blue Ensign]

Those close-up shots so clearly show the purity of your work Jason, beautiful finish.

 

B.E.

[Vicnelson]

Great build, mind if I follow along?

Ian

[md1400cs]

Jason,

 

Indeed a joy for the eyes.

 

Cheers,

[BANYAN]

Nice recovery Jason those channels look good, and up to your usual very high standards 

[Beef Wellington]

Cheers Gents, appreciate the support, comments and likes...

 

Welcome aboard Ian 🙂

 

A rather dreary rainy day precluded any other activities so as able get a decent amount of time in.  Spent most of the day completing the cannon carriages, these really are incredibly time consuming and seemingly never ending, but can now report are complete.  I did decide to cheat a little on those carriages that will be mostly obscured away from the waist.  Rather than continuing to use the  pins to simulate bolts which are incredibly fiddly, the carriage bolts were simulated using a fine tip black pen and then touch of dark iron paint to tone it down.  Pins have been used on all the carriages that will mount in or immediately about the waist.  The macro photo below shows the 'real' bolts in the foreground and the 'cheat' in the rear.  At real life viewing distance these are difficult to tell apart if you didn't know - the difference really being the lack of about 8hrs of cursing.

 

Experimentation with the cap squares and royal cyphers next...

 

[herask]

that is a lot of guns! congrats and good thinking with "the cheat". one can hardly tell the difference...

Edited October 29, 2018 by herask

[BANYAN]

Quite the production run Jason and they look terrific; if you had not pointed out the cheat only the most serious "rivet counter" would have noticed I think

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Vicnelson]

Great idea as I'm about to start on the carriages for my build...after all imitation is the greatest form of flattery!

[Gahm]

This battery of guns is a marvelous sight! . . . and a LOT of work 🙂

 

Thomas

[jim_smits]

Great set of guns Jason. 

 

All you have to do is rig them all up now.....

[Beef Wellington]

Thanks everyone as always for continued interest....

 

Jim - not going to be able to put canon rigging off much longer....ugghh

 

The area around and immediately aft of the pumps is really quite congested and requires some planning.  The main jeer and topsail sheet bitts were scratched, parts from the kit look a little oversize to my eye.  Pillars were made square in section after studying as many pictures as I could find, these seem to be a mix between square and round, but I don't think my turning skills are up to making round ones.  Side blocks and fake sheaves were also added. 

 

For the aftermost stanchions, I followed the AOTS diagrams which shows these to be of smaller dimension.  All of these items will require some final finishing.  The capstan step was cut out of a single piece of 2mm boxwood and 'joints' faked by scoring with a knife and filling with pencil lead.  This took a while with just hand tools and I couldn't help but think of a toilet seat from the end result!  These details will be visible but obscured so forcing myself not to be too fussy.  The base of the capstan itself as sanded back to the pawl rim which sits in the hole in the capstan step.  (This requires a lot more finishing to get the surface to be acceptable)

 

Pictures are hopefully self explanatory.  I've shaped some box for the elm tree pump shafts and I've placed an offcut just to get a sense for positioning....

 

And to mystery that's been puzzling me for a while (and Rob alludes to in his Ethalion log), how does the placement of the pump brakes reconcile in the this workspace in such close proximity to the capstan and companion? 

• I seem to recall reading 'somewhere' that some stanchions were removeable which would explain the location around the capstan  - once both sets were removed this would make this workable.  In later ships, these seem to have been replaced by hinged iron columns which makes a lot of sense.  if anyone could corroborate that would be much appreciated!
• Lastly, given the pump brakes also extend to this area, these would really be a permanent accident waiting to happen at the foot of the ladder to the quarterdeck which must have received quite a bit of use.  I can't find any reference to this, bit I have to suspect that pump brakes were removeable, and unshipped when not in use.  On the Artios class, there is a set forward, and 2 sets aft - in normal seagoing routine I would speculate that not all banks would have been needed, but could easily have been placed in the event or expectation of an emergency.  The last photo below from Victory seems to show exactly this, and it also makes the square section joining each brake much more functional.  Again, if anyone can point me to sources would be much appreciated!
•  

 

 

Edited November 6, 2018 by Beef Wellington

[cog]

Awesome, Jason. Especially the last picture ... so life like  Love the details on the carriages, and the capstan. Metal parts really stand out

 

Cheers

[BANYAN]

Some very nice detail in that work Jason.  Did you carve/make your capstan from scratch as the detail of the pawls etc is very well defined and consistent.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[John Cheevers]

Terrific!!

[paulsutcliffe]

Nice work Jason, I think you are correct that all the stanchions and brakes were removeable when the capstan was in use

Regards

Paul

[Beef Wellington]

Pat - the capstan is the 3D printed one I had previously ordered.  I had ordered the 'best quality' I could from Shapeways as well as a few other things, but in my opinion the quality of finish won't fly for items that are openly visible.  However, I can live with these for items that are mostly obscured (stove and lower capstan).  I'll be scratching my own quarterdeck capstan.

 

Paul - thanks for confirming.

Edited November 9, 2018 by Beef Wellington

[jwvolz]

Very nice work Jason!

[channell]

I'm not saying much but I'm still following along with great interest, Jason. Truly an inspirational job so far; I just love how clean, sharp and exact everything is. 

[Old Collingwood]

Lovely work as usual jason  - very high standard,    such an inspirational place  to visit is Vic,   you can almost feel the spirits of Nelsons crew.

 

OC.

[BANYAN]

Thanks Jason, the capstan turned out great.  A mate drew up the one I needed in a #D programme and we have also just had it printed at shapeways.  I think we used ultra high definition plastic.  I am just assembling my Vampire printed with the same  stuff and it gave nice detail - just a cow to clean.  What did you use?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Beef Wellington]

@Pat - I tried using a very fine sanding stick after coat of primer had been sprayed on.  This worked in some cases, but less so in others, and not at all in all those hard to reach corners.  I've never seen many samples of 3D printing to compare to so I may be being a little unfair, and of course it comes down to the materials supplied.  I ordered the "Smoothest Fine Detail' option which was the 'best' finish of those available.  Its odd as one side is almost perfect, the other much rougher...https://www.shapeways.com/product/9VPR7D8CW/1-64-lower-capstan-18th-and-19th-century?optionId=64749325.  I suspect other materials offered by other suppliers could give better results.

 

Taking stock:

 

Not too much time in the shipyard this weekend, trying to get the garden ready for winter.  The shipyard did however get a bit of a spring cleaning as I was getting a little bit tired of working in a 2"x2" square on my cutting mat despite working on a pretty large table.  A few overall shots of where things stand as its been a while.  Now the channels are glued, the chainplate locations could be drilled as well as the emergency rigging eyebolt positions.  The scuppers have also been completed.  The positioning of all of these things requires quite a bit of planning and luckily I didn't encounter any problems with the airing ports.  (I seem to recall leaving off the foremost one because it is very tightly positioned between preventer links and would have been impossible to locate correctly and likely resulted in a necessary compromise with the chain alignments. 

 

Nearly all the parts for the upper gun deck have been completed an I'm still following the mantra of not gluing something into place until it absolutely needs to progress.

 

 

Syren rope will be used, and I would welcome peoples' opinions on which size to use for the breech rope.  Picked two sizes that seemed most appropriate, left is 0.025"/0.63mm, the right is 0.35"/0.88mm.  Even though I'm sure it exists, I can't find info on what regulation would be - and even if I did, the carriages and barrels are best efforts at matching scale and undoubtedly not spot on, so the right "look" is probably more important.  Upon consideration, I think I'm leaning toward the smaller size, but again would appreciate input...

 

 

Edited November 12, 2018 by Beef Wellington