Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style

[Mike Y]

Ended up with changing the lamps every time I need to make a photo

Bright lamps for modelling, softer ones for photos.

 

Gaetan, thanks for the advice, but it is a living room, so aesthetics matter. I moved from a lamp on the arm to two stationary mounted lamps because they are nicer..

 

Started the fairing. Some fairies are definitely involved! It is a real miracle, what it does with the hull!

You can probably spot the difference between faired bow and other parts of the hull.

(Please enlarge the photos to see it better)

 

 

 

And a "romantic" version with powerful lamps

 

This is a very first version, the highest grit was only 240.

Apparently, accidental finger marks are very visible on the faired frames.

Hope to finish the entire hull in a few weeks... Will see how it shines after the high grits

Edited January 21, 2016 by Mike Y

[albert]

Hi Mike, wonderful work.

[Omega1234]

 

Hi Mike

 

It's nice to be able to look back at one's work and say "a job well done"...as I'm sure you're saying it to yourself now.

 

All the best

 

Patrick

[Mike Y]

Finished the most risky part of the fairing - the outer surface of the side that would be opened.

Lesson for the future - if you add the bolt simulation - add another millimiter of margin to the frame lines, especially on the sides of the hull (it is unlikely that the bottom would be problematic).

 

Ended up with some really thin sides around the midship:

 

But overall - nothing is screwed up! Just some bolts that are too close to the edge of the frame, but they are not poking to the side!

No finish applied, and will sand with fine grits right before finishing - apparently, finger marks are very visible.

 

 

 

The transom wings required a lot of shaping! You can compare with the non-faired side on the right.

 

 

I tried lots of different tools for fairing, but ended up with this set:

 

Cork block shaped to be round on one side, and remains flat on another. Sandpaper - Mirka 120 grit.

Semi-flexible yellow thingy was very useful when sanding the bow and transom. Right the exact flex! Grit 90.

French curve scraper helped to level the frames, especially in the tight areas. In another areas, miniature chisel was used for that.

Surprisingly, block plane was very useful to quickly even out the frames, to later finish it with the sanding block.

[mtaylor]

You got me smiling, Mike.  The fairing looks great.   I thought I was the only one who tried a plane on frames?   I also used it sparingly on the planks when I could.

[Stuntflyer]

I'm smiling too Mike. Nice fairing work!

[AON]

Very nicely done Mike!

 

Have you finished working on the port side transoms?   

 

Alan

[Mike Y]

Very nicely done Mike!

 

Have you finished working on the port side transoms?   

 

Alan

Nope, the port side (that would be fully planked) is not shaped or faired at all. I specifically made that last photo to show the comparison

The port side transom is currently ugly as hell!

[Omega1234]

Hi Mike

 

Very, very nice work with the fairing!

 

The care and attention that you're lavishing on the hull, just makes your work all the more commendable.

 

Nice!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited January 25, 2016 by Omega1234

[AON]

I find matching one side to the other to be very exhausting working.  Knowing when to stop is always the biggest challenge because you cannot afford to go too far.  I imagine the transoms will be the biggest challenge yet!

 

Can't wait to see you master it!

[gjdale]

Very nice work Mike. Must have been a bit nerve-wracking the first time you used the plane on it!!!

[Mike Y]

Installed "hawse timbers". There were three options

1) Install a filler piece. Meh!

2) Build hawse timbers as they should be, as TFFM describes it. Opened the chapter about it, realised I also need bollard timbers. And I was supposed to do that without any drawings and patterns, because Hahn omits that detail as non-important

Also, it will look weird - tightly spaced timbers at the bow, and evenly spaced simplified framing at the rest of the hull.

So - next time, next model

 

So I decided to go with option #3 - install one more frame that will look like a cant frame, and will follow the style of other frames.

 

Since there are no drawings for that, started with template. Used that mushy extra-soft basswood that is supplied with Longboat kit - it is better than cardboard for that purpose, and shapes easily with any tools.

Ended up with this beefy template:

 

 

 

After lots of fitting and fine tuning, resulting hawse timber / extra cant frame ended up installed:

 

 

 

Now making a side counter timbers. They would be built in TFFM way, because I do not like the way Hahn suggests to make it - with counter timbers installed 90 degrees to the ground, instead of following the curve of the hull.

Huh, really?

 

Going to do it this way (thanks Toni for a very clear photo in her Atlanta build log!)

Edited February 13, 2016 by Mike Y

[Mike Y]

Side counter timbers are fun!

Starting with an oversized piece, made of two pieces each:

 

After cutting and sanding:

 

 

Installed, with a really oversized wing-like timbers:

 

 

Now need to cut them to shape right on the hull, fair and add some nice spacers

[tlevine]

Nice work on those counter timbers.  And after all that work, almost none of it will show!

[Mike Y]

Nice work on those counter timbers.  And after all that work, almost none of it will show!

 

Thanks! But actually, it would be fully visible. 

I will leave one side fully unplanked, which means that half of the counter timbers would be exposed (also with some skeleton of the quarter gallery). Like this:

 

 

[Mike Y]

http://www.dlumberyard.com/sells the plans and a timbering set for it.

However, I ended up buying another wood (from Arkowood), because the wood provided with the timbering set had a major colour variation and defects (if we talk about the wood for frames, other wood was fine), and had a very rough finish, and sanding it to smoother finish was a very tedious and dull work. If you have a thickness a sander / planer - that should not be a big deal though.

Edited February 20, 2016 by Mike Y

[Mike Y]

Had very little time for modelling, pretty high activity in the office (in a good way though).

 

But finally finished the side counter timbers on the side that would be open (read as "the side where I am trying to make it nice").

This one should start with a very old Soviet anecdote:

Russians sold the top notch plane blueprints to Japan. Blueprints were very detailed and included a nice manual. 

Japanese engineers manufactured the parts, assembled the plane - but it was looking more like a steam locomotive, instead of a plane. Frustrated, they contact USSR embassy with an obvious "wtf" complaint. 

Soviet engineers replied: "we told you, read the manual carefully. It clearly states in the end: "after assembly, sand it down to plane-like shape"

 

So I installed some very oversized blocks and sanded them down to a wing-like shape. There are few minor errors (the wing transom corner was smoothened too much, and there are few minor dents), but I think it is decent for some part that was done totally from scratch, not according to Hahn's plans.

 

 

 

 

Flipped the hull for the first time. Looks like a ship, actually! 

 

 

Time to finish the "ugly" side, and make a cradle for working with jig upside down, to access the inside of the hull.

 

P.S.: sorry for the very blurry thumbnails of the photos, not sure why the forum engine compresses them so much. Please look on the fullsize versions, they are not as blurry.

Edited February 20, 2016 by Mike Y

[albert]

Beautiful work Mike.

[mtaylor]

Nice work on finding those frames inside the wood, Mike.

[dvm27]

I'll take your "ugly" side any day, Mike. Loved the Soviet anecdote!

[Omega1234]

Hi Mike

 

Damn fine work!!!

 

All the best.

 

Patrick

Edited February 21, 2016 by Omega1234

[Mike Y]

Thanks for the comments and likes!

 

I'll take your "ugly" side any day, Mike. Loved the Soviet anecdote!

Greg, all the photos show the good side only. The ugly one is not shown yet - it has wood strips patching low spots, rough finish and a lot of shortcuts (simple gunport sills instead of angled, simplified transom framing, etc) The ugly side would be fully planked fom top to the bottom, so no need to bother with accuracy there. I will post a photo one day.. Just too ashamed to show it.

 

Dear Mike, your work allways pleases as dose you runni ng commentry and I regularly keep up .One thing and may be you will not be aball to anser as you may not be aball to enlage but the friget ,the grait cabin Ithink I can see some panalling at least in the lower part  .I know this is not dyrectly in this thread but do you have an inlagment of the grait cabin  thank you any way for first class log .robin

Hi Robin,

Do you mean the model I showed as a reference? Sorry, I do not have a pictures of its great cabin, the only one I have are from NMM website. Or I misunderstood the question?

[Mike Y]

Robin, here is the NMM page with that model, maybe it will give you some additional information for your research: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66277.html

[Mike Y]

Spent few weeks working on my "living room corner workshop"

Finally I have a lifting table! No more bending the neck and back when working with a small details! Hooorray!

 

Normal position:

 

Standing position:

 

All power tools are stacked below the table, except the disk sander that is used too frequently.

Small stuff is hidden in the drawers (need to add some internal compartments for a more efficient space use), and very frequently used tools are on a magnetic holder outside the drawers:

 

Everything is from IKEA, of course

Electrical table legs - BEKANT (I am very pleased with them, very little play, very stable, even better than my office table, which is far more expensive)

Table top - GERTON. It is a solid wood beech top, which I sanded and finished with tung oil.

Drawers - VALJE. They are  neat like tetris bricks, could be combined in many different ways.

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

How about something like this : 

http://www.whitediabolo.co.uk/bisley-10-multidrawer-filing-cabinet-2910---oxford-blue-155-p.asp

for small drawers?

[Mike Y]

Anything with a closed rollout sections will not work - the drawers are mounted pretty high (to make room for liftong the table, 125cm in the top position), so things should be accesssible from the lower angle - shelfs are on the level of your head and sholders.

I will just make an internal plywood shelfs, should be simple.

[mtaylor]

A very nice workspace, Mike. It looks well thought out with room for expansion.

[wyz]

Hi Mike,

 

     If your shop is in the corner of your living room how do you deal with the wood dust?  The fine stuff must go everywhere.  Do you have a tabletop air filter, or do you just vacuum and dust a lot? 

 

Tom

[Mike Y]

 If your shop is in the corner of your living room how do you deal with the wood dust?  The fine stuff must go everywhere.  Do you have a tabletop air filter, or do you just vacuum and dust a lot? 

I am vacuuming and wiping away dust after every modelling session. That is why all the drawers are closed with doors - dust will not get inside, easier to clean.

Also, the main dust producer is a disc sander, and I put a small vacuum next to it when sanding, most of the sawdust go there.

When doing some very dusty work, like sanding the hull - I am going to the kitchen and do it there, it is better designed for cleaning.

 

Dust, noise and space are always a limitations if you work in the living room.. But it is definitely possible.

[Omega1234]

 

Hi Mike

 

"Dust, noise and space are always a limitations if you work in the living room.. But it is definitely possible...."

 

Mike - I also believe that our "better halves" also impose limitations on the living rooms, as well (if you know what I mean)

 

Cheers

 

Patrick