Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF

[wefalck]

Nice solution indeed, it looks much more ship-shape now 👍

[michael mott]

Spy, Yes they will be running back-stays with banjo blocks.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

Spy , thanks that would be great.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

Spy

Tell me more about the Equinox, is she a modern Yacht or an older one that has been restored?

 

Michael

[michael mott]

Thanks Spy for the extra information The picture would be good.

 

Michael

[michael mott]

A little more work on the topmast rigging.

First I did an eye splice then served it.

 

 

It was a bit tight slipping the eye over the sheave at the top but with a bit of fiddling it all worked out a little easier when I lowered it after my arms started to ache.

 

I need to push the cap back down.

 

 

I also put the jib Forestay up and realized that it will need to be set up differently because it will attach to the bowsprit traveler that can be positioned along the bowsprit. The steel part will need to be shortened as it is too long because the halliard for the forestay is at the limit and there is no room to adjust it as the length is shortened moving toward the bow.

 

 

It is beginning to get busy up there.

 

 

 

A shot at the cranse iron at the tip of the bowsprit. presently there is a double block with a becket but it need to be changed to a single block with a becket, The one I have is too small. the topmast forestay is set through a single block and will cleat off at the bow somewhere. It is belayed to the post next the the bowsprit at the moment while I determine where to cleat it.

 

 

 

Michael

 

[wefalck]

I love this metal-work, looks like the real cast thing !

 

One thing that occurred to me: the open end of the shackles looks a bit wide, which results in the shackled being pulled in an oblique direction to the bolt; in real life this could result in the bolt being bent, so that one cannot unshackle it anymore ...

[DORIS]

I admire your craftsmanship and skills, dear Michael. The model looks fantastic. 

I enjoy the pics from progress very much. Thank you for sharing your beautiful work.

 

Best regards

Doris

[BANYAN]

I am very much enjoying your updates Michael; a great display of masterful modelling.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[michael mott]

20 hours ago, wefalck said:

One thing that occurred to me: the open end of the shackles looks a bit wide, which results in the shackled being pulled in an oblique direction to the bolt; in real life this could result in the bolt being bent, so that one cannot unshackle it anymore ...

An interesting observation I did look at a number of prototype pictures of shackles and it doen't seem to be an issue with many of the situations that I looked at. From and aesthetic point of view thoughIt might look better.

 

Thank you Doris for you kind words.

 

Thanks Pat for looking in and you compliments.

 

I worked on the bowsprit traveler after looking at a lot of them on the web. I used some 3/16 brass rod first I annealed it then wrapped it around a rod in order to create a ring.

 

 

The using the jewelers saw cut across the area where the double layer is, I did this twice because I was not happy with the first attempt. I was not able to close up the gap satisfactorily. The second one silver-soldered and cleaned up is in the front.

 

 

Next I cut a length of thin leather to sew around and stitched it without skewering my fingers Yea!

 

 

 

Next I trimmed off around the edge and then folded some 1/16th diameter rod into a hook and eye, I will probably revisit this tomorrow.

 

 

 

I will need to undo the cranse Iron in order to slip the traveler on after ensuring that the hook is going to work properly. 

 

 

Michael

[wefalck]

That's the trouble of working at such a large scale: you can/have to represent all the details, but things are only an eighth of size ... 😏

 

Good job on the 'leathering' !

[druxey]

Great leathering job!

[Jim Lad]

Just catching up, Michael.  She continues to be very impressive indeed.

 

John

[Chasseur]

Hi Michael,

yes I would like to try and find some time for another visit. Right now tied up with work and professional studies in the evening. I have 2 weeks off at Christmas to catch up with family, work on HMS Wivern ship in bottle and eventually get back to the Preussen SIB. I’ll PM you closer to the 25th.

 

As always outstanding work and nice fix to the dead bar and consultants. There was never a doubt in my mind that you wouldn’t resolve the problem.

Jeff

[michael mott]

Thanks all for the fine comments.

I mentioned yesterday revisiting the hook.... well one thing led to another, I know that's what they all say.

 

First thing was to machine down some more 3/16 (.1875) to .140 this is reduced the ring from a scale 1 1/2" diameter to 1 1/8" diameter. then annealed it and bent up a new ring.

 

 

Next the ends were annealed again and flattened.

 

 

The flattened ends were then folded up with some round nosed pliers after another annealing.

 

 

The folded ends were cleaned up with a file.

 

 

 

Then a new leathering done using the same thin leather and some light thread. 

 

 

I was not happy with the results and so stripped off the leather and used a thicker leather.

 

 

This worked much better that I expected and laid much smoother around the ring.

 

 

The holes needed to be drilled because I was so caught up with getting the leather work done, that I forgot to drill them first.

 

 

Next a retaining bolt and a couple of nuts from some 1/8" hex stock and threaded 1x72.

 

 

and a hook

 

 

I needed to modify the end of the bowsprit to add a sheave to pull the traveler back and forth. Also added a brass strengthening ring once the sheave was fitted.

 

 

Threaded up the traveler line and tied it to the traveler.

 

 

Lastly pulled the traveler out to the end of the bowsprit.

 

 

A long day but I am pleased with the outcome. So now the jib stay is operational.

 

 

Tomorrow I need to clean up the shop which looks like a hurricane went through.

 

Michael

 

Edited December 3, 2018 by michael mott
spelling.

[gjdale]

Outstanding Michael - I can’t think of anything further to say - simply, outstanding!

[cog]

Lovely job on the brass, Michael. If you find it hard to get leather to take the shape you want it to, try moistening it (with e.g. a spunge and luke warm water), shape it around the form, and let it dry. It is what a lot of saddlers do for amongst others certain parts of a saddle, runners, and some loops

Edited December 3, 2018 by cog

[Bob Cleek]

A truly beautiful job on this pilot cutter!  As others have noted, the metalwork is spectacular.

 

Just a few comments from an old "pilot cutter type" sailor which I hope may be helpful:

 

As you can see, there will be chafing between the leather of the jib traveler and the seizings on the whisker stay splices. Keeping it all as simple as possible and as free from chafe and chances for hang-ups and tangles is to be desired. This style of traveler poses the inherent problem of binding when running in and out the spar. As the traveler sheet pulls the ring, the ring will tend to "lay down" on the spar and bind

 

There are a number of ways to deal with the jib tack hook and the bail for the traveler "messenger lines" (or whatever one calls them,  ... "different ships, different long splices.")  Some are as basic as a "U" welded to the traveler ring. Classically, the sheet bail is shaped like a somewhat elongated "U" shackle with the ring running through the "eyes" of the "U" shackle. The ring also runs through the eye of the jib tack hook which is positioned between the two "eyes" of the "U" shackle with the ring running through all three "eyes." This permits the bail and the hook to rotate on the ring independent of each other.  Instead of a "U" shackle, a short bar or other forged fitting is often designed so that the ring runs through a center hole in the bar and "eyes" at the fore and aft ends of the bar are available to shackle or splice on the messenger lines running forward and aft of the ring connection. This is a preferable arrangement, IMHO, because it does not require the bail to reverse its lead, fore or aft, depending upon which way the ring is being pulled on the bowsprit which, with a bail, will run afoul of the jib tack hook one way or the other when the messenger line is pulled. 

 

Where the ring is not solid and is bolted together at the top, the bail and hook is arranged similarly to how it is done when on the ring alone. The "eyes" of the bail can be outside of the "tabs" or "ears" and the hook between the "tabs" or "ears," with the bolt running through the eyes of the bail, the tabs on the ring, and the hook eye. Alternately, if a bar is used instead of a bail, the bolt goes through the middle hole on the bar. Another common design which permits easy removal of the traveler ring, is to break the ring at both the top and bottom, with "tabs" or "ears" as you have them pictured above both at the top of the ring and at the bottom of the ring. At the top will be a bail and the hook and, if one wishes a second messenger line to complicate the rigging, a second messenger line can be attached at the bottom of the ring which can come in very handy to overcome any binding or hang-up when sliding the traveler ring in and out the bowsprit.   Double messenger lines will, of course, require another turning block below the cranse iron and the question of whether redundant messenger lines are worth the trouble will depend on the size of the vessel more than anything else.

 

Yet another version of the fitting is to use a "T"  or triangular-shaped metal plate with three holes. One hole half way between the corners of one side of the triangle, or at the intersection of the vertical and horizontal "legs" of the "T" has the ring or ring joining bolt run through it. The hook and the two ends of the messenger lines are attached to the other three holes at the extremities of the piece. This is the simplest solution of all.

 

In earlier times, the tack hook tip was "bent and balled" to permit mousing, which is required to keep the tack cringle from coming adrift of the hook. In later times. "pigtail" or "S" hooks of various designs which reduce the chance of the cringle shaking free, have been employed.

 

The rings are not properly leathered with the plain seam stitch shown. The leather's width was cut to the match the circumference of the ring, or be a tad shy of it, then wet down and sewn together with a "baseball" stitch, stretching the leather so that the edges met exactly and the leather shrunk tight. This was a stronger stitch and finishing the seam in this way prevented fouling. This would also resolve the chaffing issue with the whisker stay splice serving seen in the photo above. I expect that using a thinner piece of leather (it may be planed thinner on the inside face) stretched and shrunk in place will avoid "scrunching" as the leather goes around the curve.

 

While I'd defer to some more authoritative source than my own recollection, I've never seen a sheave in the end of a bowsprit in conjunction with a cranse iron. The sheave in the end of a bowsprit is common for small craft with reefing bowsprits which set headsails flying and do not carry whisker stays. In such, the line to which the headsail tack is attached runs through the sheave in the end of the bowsprit and down to a turning thumb cleat and back up to a cleat on the bow rail. This arrangement can be set up with, or without a bowsprit traveler. This is the standard arrangement in Irish hookers.

 

(Below) "Bent and balled" tack hook, un-moused, as tack is not attached. (Bowsprit reefed.)

(Below: Irish hooker showing "jib tack + bobstay" rigging run around thumb cleat on starboard cutwater and up to the bow bitt.

[michael mott]

Bob thanks for the compliment about the quality of my work I appreciate it a lot.

1 hour ago, Bob Cleek said:

There are a number of ways to deal with the jib tack hook and the bail for the traveler "messenger lines" (or whatever one calls them,  ... "different ships, different long splices.")  Some are as basic as a "U" welded to the traveler ring. Classically, the sheet bail is shaped like a somewhat elongated "U" shackle with the ring running through the "eyes" of the "U" shackle. The ring also runs through the eye of the jib tack hook which is positioned between the two "eyes" of the "U" shackle with the ring running through all three "eyes." This permits the bail and the hook to rotate on the ring independent of each other.  Instead of a "U" shackle, a short bar or other forged fitting is often designed so that the ring runs through a center hole in the bar and "eyes" at the fore and aft ends of the bar are available to shackle or splice on the messenger lines running forward and aft of the ring connection. This is a preferable arrangement, IMHO, because it does not require the bail to reverse its lead, fore or aft, depending upon which way the ring is being pulled on the bowsprit which, with a bail, will run afoul of the jib tack hook one way or the other when the messenger line is pulled.  

I'm afraid you lost me here bob. I am a visual type learner and a picture of what you are explaining would be really helpful.

 

 

1 hour ago, Bob Cleek said:

The rings are not properly leathered with the plain seam stitch shown. The leather's width was cut to the match the circumference of the ring, or be a tad shy of it, then wet down and sewn together with a "baseball" stitch, stretching the leather so that the edges met exactly and the leather shrunk tight. This was a stronger stitch and finishing the seam in this way prevented fouling. This would also resolve the chaffing issue with the whisker stay splice serving seen in the photo above. I expect that using a thinner piece of leather (it may be planed thinner on the inside face) stretched and shrunk in place will avoid "scrunching" as the leather goes around the curve.

In making my decision to do the leather the way I did was basically because all the examples that are clear on the net and the Commercial travelers for sale appear to be done this way. as these are from the net  sorry I don't know how to shorten the address without using the link in the header 

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjn_Yf57ITfAhU9CjQIHettDjEQMwhFKAowCg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.unlikelyboatbuilder.com%2F2015%2F06%2Foil-or-varnish.html&psig=AOvVaw0EGuwX9M6x0i_Yv6PWhW_u&ust=1543967409551916&ictx=3&uact=3

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjn_Yf57ITfAhU9CjQIHettDjEQMwh8KDQwNA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackwaterleather.co.uk%2Fre-leathering-a-bowsprit-traveller%2F&psig=AOvVaw0EGuwX9M6x0i_Yv6PWhW_u&ust=1543967409551916&ictx=3&uact=3

 

 

And in the second picture you posted  the ring is covered in leather the same way.

 

1 hour ago, Bob Cleek said:

While I'd defer to some more authoritative source than my own recollection, I've never seen a sheave in the end of a bowsprit in conjunction with a cranse iron.

Again Bob I used examples that I have looked at on the net for my inspiration as in this example on Polly Agatha relaxing at Cowes

 

 

or in this example of Betty in Amsterdam

 

or in this example on Integrity built by Stirling recently.

and finally this well crafted example on  White Rose from ClassicBoats

 

 

I certainly agree that there is a possibility of chafing of the leather as it gets close to the end of the bowsprit perhaps I need to make the ring a little smaller as in the example above. what is interesting about this example is that the sheave is on the bow side of the cranse iron whilst in the other example it is ahead. I don't need to say much about the way the leather is stitched although the baseball stitch would possibly be more aesthetically pleasing.

 

Perhaps I shall try it on a smaller ring sometime.

 

Michael 

 

 

 

Edited December 4, 2018 by michael mott
picture placement.

[Kurt Johnson]

Mike, Comes pretty close to the ceiling! It really is beautiful work. I can look at it for hours.

 

Kurt

[Bob Cleek]

Interesting information, Michael! It seems that sheaves in the end of bowsprits with cranse irons is a more common phenomenon than I realized. Being on the west side of the Pond, I don't have the same number of pilot cutters to use as a sample. I'm still troubled by their running the traveler line past the cranse iron and its attendant hardware, though. That's a significant chafe occasion going past all those fittings and its an important line. If it chafes through, there will be hell to pay under sail.

 

As for the stitching, it appears that they've opted for a straight stitch because it can be done on a machine with less time, skill, and expense, as the examples appear to be. I'll stand fast on the point that the two-needle "baseball" stitch makes a neater, stronger, and more long-lasting job of it.  It seems a lot of what's seen today wouldn't pass muster in times past. Just because there's a picture of it on the internet doesn't necessarily mean anything more than that is how somebody else did it.

 

If you spend some time running the traveler in and out under tension as would occur when setting the headsail flying, I expect if the arrangement is prone to hanging up and fouling, it will be readily apparent.

[druxey]

It's interesting to see that the design and construction of the traveller ring has not changed in well over 200 years! 

[KORTES]

Dear Michael.

Your handicraft is truly amazing!

Respectfully yours .

[michael mott]

Thanks everyone for the informative and complementary input.

Well somebody said at some time in the log way back that I was like a dog with a bone.....😀  The saga continues.

I thought about the baseball stitching a lot in the last day, and gauntlets are always compelling so thanks for that Bob.

 

A new ring slightly smaller in Diameter.

 

After three times flattening and annealing

 

 

Folding and drilling tapped 2x56 to clamp it together. and a strip of quite thin leather from a salvaged bit of clothing. to check the length.

 

 

The strip was marked with 2mm increments and a small awl punched holes.

 

 

After reading and watching some demos on the web I was ready to start, the one caution was to use blunt needles so I dulled a couple of fine needles for the job.

 

First threading.

 

Last and tied off.

 

Mama ring, Papa ring, and Baby ring.

 

I used the hook off the second Traveler on the new one. The leather and threads have been waxed I stained the treads a little to tone them down.

 

 

Reinstalled

 

 

 

 

And here it is clear of the bowsprit shrouds.

 

 

I'm done with this puppy and will be movin' on.

 

Michael

 

[druxey]

Oooh! Much nicer, Michael. It was time well spent on the re-do.

[wefalck]

I think my great-grandfather and my grand-aunt would have commended you on the leatherwork - they ran a glove-factory (until they had to give in to the Asian competition). Very neat.

[Mirabell61]

Hi Michael,

those leather cladded traveller rings look great  !

 

Nils

[Bob Cleek]

Ah!  "Three's the charm!" as they say. It looks "shipshape and Bristol fashion." Nicely done. You have to look twice, or maybe thrice, to realize the finished photos are of a model and not a full-sized vessel.

[michael mott]

Worked on the topmast shrouds and finished the dead eyes for them.

 

folded up some .051" rod

 

 

Flattened them

 

 

Silver soldered them

 

 

Bent them up and fitted them

 

 

The port side shroud was too long and I had set the whipping with crazy glue... an hour later with multiple soakings in acetone I was able to get the whippings off and re position the upper deadeye. it was a tedious job.

 

Michael

[DORIS]

Incredible precision and quality of work. What a great inspiration for all of us.

Thank you for sharing,  it is pleasure to watch your progress.

 

Kind regards

Doris