Landlubber Mike
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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike
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I've made some pretty good progress the last few weeks, and have finished the first planking. I didn't bother using planking bands, spiling, runs of planks, etc. since this area of the hull will be covered with copper plates and a few rows of ebony planks as a second planking. But, that resulted in a little clinking, and hence some filler at the stem and stern. The current ebony planking ends at the line of the wale, so I sanded the lime planking flush to it. For this ship, the wale is marked by a thicker row of planks, so all I need to do is just add the ebony planks on top of the first planking and I'll have the wale. For those planks, I'll certainly need to spile. In the stern picture below, I stained the top area of the transom black as the planking for the transom is curved, and I was worried about gaps potentially showing if I don't get the curves perfect. The counter is a little tricky because there are a lot of curves that end into it, including the name board which is the area between the counter and the black transom. I thought it was really important to get the shape right, so rather than go plank by plank, I glued a bunch of planks together, traced the counter pattern from the plans, and then cut and sanded the counter to shape using the tracing. That was much easier, and ensured an accurate and symmetrical counter. Once glued to the hull, I was able to use the counter to help sand the hull to get the proper curves into the counter. I think I'm going to go with the higher water line (thanks everyone for the recommendation), so mid-hull I probably only need three rows of second planking to get to the waterline. My plan is to go a little below the waterline, and then sand the planks under the waterline to feather into the first planking. I'm using 0.7mm ebony, so this shouldn't be too difficult. Thanks for looking in! Hope my friends in Florida, etc. are staying safe with the hurricane.
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Really beautiful work Grant. Very nice job! It's funny, I was looking at Dumas' Cris-Craft boat kits earlier today and was thinking they might be fun to build - though I think I need to get a little more up the skill curve first. What did you think about the kit generally? Good components? Seems like you bashed it a bit.
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- dumas
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Gorgeous work Martin, very nice!! I might need to borrow this for my Pegasus, really classy looking.
- 467 replies
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- fly
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Amazing work as usual Igor, beautiful! Your sails are incredible. Could you explain how you got the seams on the sails? I studied your pictures, but couldn't figure out how you used the black cloth to make the seams.
- 185 replies
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- jolie brise
- pilot cutter
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Great work Tom. I have the same Winfield book and thought about doing a model on it. Your log is very inspirational!
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I prefer the RB guns too. For what it's worth, I am replacing my Pegasus guns with the RB guns, not only for better scale but better looks.
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Looks fantastic Peter! That's quite a lot of progress. I'll be following along with much interest!
- 366 replies
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- bellerophon
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Nice work! I use those same clamps. I prefer them over some of the others I've bought over the years.
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I've been using ebony for my Morgan and have had no problems with gluing. I haven't found the dust to be problematic either - I just am very careful to wipe it down after working with it, which I probably should be doing with all woods. Ebony is gorgeous - the various ways of ebonizing pear and other woods don't really come close.
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Great work BE. I loved the Proxxon mini-lathe. It made work on my Badger's masts and spars so much easier. I ended up selling it and upgrading to a Sherline (which I haven't used yet), but I'm sorta regretting it given how easy it was to work with the Proxxon (and I wonder if I'll ever use the Sherline to turn metal).
- 156 replies
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- pinnace
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Looks really good! Impressive that this is your first build, very nicely done!
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This is an amazing build Ken, incredible job you're doing. I echo what Pete said - even for those of us not working on this kit, we are all learning and getting inspiration from your log.
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Nice job Gary. That looks like a really well-thought out kit. The little touches to help builders properly assemble the kit are very nice indeed.
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Happy belated birthday Eamonn! Really nice work on the Ballahoo and other model!
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- ballahoo
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Looking really great Al. Love your guitar too by the way, it's a real beauty. You're very talented!
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That came out really nicely Martin. Very nice touch! I might have to shamelessly steal that from you when I turn back to my Pegasus...
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- fly
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Very nice Russ! So cool that you are making models of ships local to your area.
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- captain roy
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Looking great Vince! Are you using the kit wood, or are you using other woods? I have a couple of Euromodel kits and just wondering what Euromodel builders are doing on their builds, as the wood in my kits looks pretty good.
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Beautiful, the profile moulding is a really nice touch.
- 156 replies
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- pinnace
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Great job BE. Ditto on what all the guys above me said. Subtle treenails add nice character and detail to the model without overwhelming it.
- 156 replies
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Thanks David, I've been considering that option as well. I have a lot of letters to get right, and I can just see getting to the last one and having to start over. I think the Morgan is a great subject to model. It's a nice break from all the warship kits that are out there, and there's lots of interesting details you can add to the ship if you choose. Plus, the actual ship is still around which you can visit or at least see lots of pictures out there. As for the kit, the plans are very well done (at least I think so far) and the instruction manual is good. I've compared the plans to pictures of the ship, and the plans appear to be very spot on, even down to the planking. I'm not a fan of MS' use of basswood for the keel and bulkheads, as I think MDF provides a much better structure. But, taking the time to put bracing blocks between the bulkheads, everything has remained square and without any flex. The cast pieces generally aren't bad, but when you see how people here on MSW improve detail pieces like those, they seem a bit lacking (but how much can one expect from white metal castings). So all in all, I'd definitely recommend the kit. Even though I'm replacing all the visible wood, I don't hold that against the kit.
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Thanks Timmo. I'll try some experiments. The copper plates in the Pegasus kit seem to do well with the personal fluids method based on a Fly kit on here. The Model Expo tape less so. Maybe the latter has a coating of some sort. Sorry for the interruption Joe!
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Thanks Joe, that's really helpful. I'll have to experiment a bit and see if I can replicate the green oxidized look.
- 136 replies
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- caldercraft
- Cruiser
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