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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. Your work on the piping and wiring boggles my mind!
  2. Hello, Tomek. Fantastic finish! I didn't think to ask about it earlier, but I assumed at first that this was a Shipyard kit, but then I remembered that they usually publish in 1/96 scale rather than 1/100. Could you fill us in on the publisher of this kit? Cheers!
  3. Speaking of Paper Shipwright, I see that David has revamped his web site. It is much improved in both look and function. AND (best part) he has increased the number of free models!
  4. Drifting a little off-topic here, but I had a distant cousin on the Samuel B. Roberts DE-413 at Samar.
  5. You haven't really "arrived" in this hobby until you stab/slice/impale/gouge yourself with some sharp instrument.
  6. Just out of curiosity, Jack ... I have often thought that this sort of smaller plastic project is the way to go for someone looking to get into the plastic + aftermarket details action. How much did your kit, PE details set, and PE tool set you back? And will this be your first time working with these media?
  7. Is this a double-planked hull? If so, then also keep in mind that what you're adding there is not the true garboard plank -- it's just the substructure upon which to add the 2nd layer of planking. That's where you'll need to pay close attention to actual practice, if that's your goal.
  8. One possibility would be to grind a chisel blade for a hobby knife down to the plank width. Run the blade edge across a permanent marker and then use it to gently stamp a butt joint between planks. The amount of ink transferred would be very small and shouldn't bleed badly.
  9. These are really fantastic looking boats and a great option for folks who don't want to go the scratch route for replacing off-the-shelf kit boats. Great job!
  10. I had the 1/200 Orel card model of Retvizan at one point, but decided to part with it when my stash needed thinning. Orel makes some great models, but their after-market detail sets are PE brass, and I prefer to work with the laser-cut card detail sets produced by HMV.
  11. I wondered about that when I saw what appeared to be charring on the frames. I have a great interest in the pre-Dreadnought era ships -- fascinating that so many Russian ships were built in American yards, while the Japanese ships were built in England.
  12. I think my modeler's funk on HMS Fly is currently in year seven. I haven't finished any model in just about four years now, and I'm forcing myself through my current project bit by painful bit. I hope that reaching the finish line on this one will prove to be a catalytic experience of sorts. We'll see. In the meantime, I still enjoy watching the work of others take shape. Enjoy your break!
  13. Richmond, try contacting Shipyard through their Facebook page. That sometimes gets speedier replies.
  14. Welcome, Anthony. Yes, MS is one of the best out there. I haven't ordered from them in ages though, so I don't know what their typical turn-around times are these days. I'd suggest giving them another day or two, and if it hasn't shipped by then, give them a call.
  15. The only legitimate kit I know of is the old Constructo 1/85 kit. There's a review of it here on MSW.
  16. Hello, Jim. I lived near Eureka, CA, for many years, and two of my children live near Morro Bay, so I'm familiar with the trollers that you speak of. Many of them are attractive boats and would make excellent modeling subjects. Cheers!
  17. Oh, if only I had a dollar for every bone-headed mistake I've made with my card models!
  18. Hello, Chris -- good to see you back. I'm kinda surprised to hear that designers suffer burnout, too, though I guess I shouldn't be. I have been fighting the malady myself for a number of years now (but pushing ahead with my current non-ship project). Since I know that you'll be swamped (if not already) with requests to design everybody's particular favorite ship, I will try really, really hard not to add mine to the pile; but -- I will take exception with the assertion that sail/steam transition ships are not interesting. Some are certainly more interesting than others, for instance the protected cruisers of the 1880s (e.g. USS Boston 1884 or HMS Imperieuse 1883) with their still substantial rigs and armored casemates. They're not everyone's idea of nautical beauty, but they are nonetheless very visually interesting. Just sayin'. Cheers!
  19. Hello, Ab! I belong to the Paper Modelers forum as well, and there are indeed some very fine modelers at that site, including a number of other MSW members. If I build a card ship, I prefer to show it here, because I like to see a diversity of media shown at MSW.
  20. I had a look, too, and your CAD model is indeed amazing -- I shudder to think of the effort that will be needed to replicate all of that in a 1/96 scale model, but I certainly applaud the attempt! The Cleveland-class were good looking ships, both in their all-gun and CG configurations, and of course they contributed greatly to US naval efforts. I wish you every success on your continuing project!
  21. The mark in the first photo looks like a dent. That should probably be filled in with wood filler, which will be hidden if you plan to paint the model. The rebate cut into the hull is where the bulwarks will be attached, so no, don't sand the hull down to that line -- unless you want a slimmer, trimmer, Bounty-Lite. Cheers!
  22. Erik, have you tried making your own? Eye bolts are quite easy to make with blackened annealed wire and a pair of round-nose pliers. Cheers,
  23. Well, don't hit the button if you're expecting to pay only $206 -- that's far too low. Best thing is to do is to contact Cornwall directly and confirm the price with them, which should be in the ~US$1000 range.
  24. Ah, you painted the main guns, too. I was wondering about that. 🙂
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