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stuglo

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Everything posted by stuglo

  1. They look artificial and do not represent the real thing. The ports can be lined if not painted. Check out some virtual tours on u-tube or better still visit the ship ! Generally speaking I like the wood look and to see my work. I paint badly but certain models, look better painted eg Diane and Agamemnon, others such as Woppen, only the upper stern and side decoration. Like much with this hobby, its very personal.
  2. This was my first build and still one of my favorites, in the days before internet. The wood was good, the plans needed understanding and the Longridge book a necessity. Apart from a Dremel drill, work by hand tools. But then I counted years not months of work. Be prepared for undoing mistakes, which is easier if things are glued later or use PVA which can be "undone". Minor points- I'm glad that I did not paint the hull and regret using the metal port frames. Have fun, share and ask when in doubt.
  3. Single planking on bulkheads is in my opinion , much more difficult. The ability to form smooth and accurate lines demand a substantial base-frames or close bulwarks, or a much thicker plank. Also a second layer of planking gives a second chance to improve without undoing and being short of wood. I applaud those who produce good results from the single planking ships- my efforts require (?excessive) filling and paint to disguise my underachievement.
  4. where were you when I bought mine last summer! The machine is fantastic value and very useful. Someone will be very lucky
  5. by comparison, I was told these were (?true ) african walnut, but I stand to be corrected
  6. I'm building the Panart bow section and definitely had to move the ports- this and other patterns I have used are usually only guides. Try a small center hole and see - remember also height of sills relate to the cannon/deck height which may not be the same as allowed for by the pattern.
  7. I use https://www.axminster.co.uk/ for blades and other things. Good for delivery in UK and also to Israel. Good price and service.
  8. Its cheap to photocopy everything several times- I use my simple home printer
  9. I've had a proxxon K230 for 6 years including 2 scratch built models. I've had to buy several types of blade and certainly agree that for "heavy"work, tungsten are worthwhile. If and when this breaks, I would like the Byrnes but with shipping it is VERY expensive. The lack of accuracy of the proxxon can be compensated by finishing by sanding as can the lack of tilt facility
  10. Have you used this method of shaping/ marking frames before. I found that when I cut out the paper pattern as you have done, they tended to distort when glued to the wood. I therefore stuck them "whole" then cut them together with the wood. I hope to start my Rattlesnake in a couple of months, so I want to share your experience
  11. I also discovered the log only after seeing the gallery pictures. Reading from the beginning was worthwhile and increases the appreciation of the quality of work. Many helpful tips. How did you make those mast hoops and miniature hinges on the doors?
  12. I have a selection of the larger tools. The course ones take stuff off pretty quickly and enthusiasm must be curbed. The fine ones wear-out quicker than I hoped . Also the corners, such as gunports , are round and require knife or regular file. They save time but sometimes this is undone by repairs for excessive removal
  13. Silly question- how do you insert those t-shaped pins. I have them and even with drilled holes they dont lend themselves to a knock with a hammer or simple push
  14. Really work to a high standard. Had my eye on this kit many years ago but others took priority.
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