BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Nice collection of guns there Greg; they look great. I know you will be sorry to see the end of doing these huh? cheers pat -
They look so much better than the kit parts Jason; some nice joinery there. cheers Pat
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Hi Ed, well plenty down our part of the world anyway - not sure if you were playing on words? I went to a place that specialised in lighting (but also sold some high end cameras etc). As an example this is the shop I used Dragon Image or where I get other equipment Specular Photographic Equipment. I bought some Backdrop roll material (non-woven). You might try B&H in your neck of the woods? cheers Pat
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As with all your builds Ed I have been fascinated with this wonderful build. What you achieve at this scale is phenomenal; very much enjoying the processes. WRT the dust box; have you considered photographers backdrop material? It is a lot tougher than the paper and pretty cheap by the meter from a photography store. cheers Pat
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Very nice work on those guns Greg. this will be one very nicely detailed model when you get all these guns onto her cheers Pat
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Very nice work (crisp and clean detail) as usual Rusty; glad to see you right back into the swing of things. cheers Pat
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Slow but great work Ben. It took me 14 years to complete a model when I was working and not to the quality you are showing. Thanks for that info Druxey (and Chuck) very nice to know this type of detail. cheers Pat
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Sounds plausible Dave; unless the original design led to a 'wet ship' and they needed more protection to stop the 'roughers' coming over? cheers Pat
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That looks great Dave. Your photos reinforce why I did not go for the AOTS boat stowage as there would not have been enough room at the back of the gun for recoil yet alone working the guns. My preference was stacking on the gallows. You have done an excellent job on the finish though, they look great in situ. cheers Pat
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You must be close to finishing all those guns soon greg, seems never ending. A great job and a lesson in perseverance. cheers Pat
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ancre Chebece 1750 by Jeronimo - FINISHED
BANYAN replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Great work Karl, it's a wonder you didn't lose more with the size of the wood you are using. The stern in particular looks great! cheers Pat -
Thanks Joel, Another to try I agree, i wish to stay away from washes and the like - I'll do a bit of a search to see if I can get some. cheers Pat
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Belaying pins
BANYAN replied to bluenose2's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I am currently researching pins and racks for my HMCSS Victoria project (built 1855) and I have found discussion that suggests that at some point before this (transition from sail to steam and/or steel) the pin styles changed and that they were permanent fitted in the rack/rail. These pins (not for all ships though) were made from brass or iron, and shaped with a broader middle that fitted to/in the rack and the diameter decreased as they extended away either side of the rack. Before that, I think most pins were of the shape we are accustomed to seeing, and as JCF pointed out, some were made from wood or metal, and were designed to slip into the holes in the rack with the shoulder of the handle part stopping it slipping through. The pins' size was governed by the rigging size belayed to it (I think Lees discusses this but would have to check) and were able to be moved in the rack (other holes) as needed for a better lead/to clear other rigging. Belaying pins were also utilised as weapons during boarding, or defending against boardings. cheers Pat -
I have only left mine floating (not glued) for the reasons mentioned by others above. However, I did ensure the mast entry hole on the deck was a close fit so they did not move around too much cheers Pat
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Thanks JCF, those are very helpful. Looks like I need to pick up some burnt umber to experiment with cheers Pat
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Stunning work Jason, your finishes even stand up to close/macro camera views. That is a very nice shade of blue and complements your choices of wood very nicely - she will be one sweet model when completed. cheers Pat
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Nice recovery with the flat varnish Denis, that really improved the paint blotches for you. Did you find out what caused them? cheers Pat
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Hi John, thaks for looking in mate. To date I have been making my own rope (usually white or unbleached cotton) and applying RIT dye using salt in the mixture to ensure colour fastness. My question was prompted by some research I am doing for a shop note I am putting together for some club members. In a recent workshop I conducted , I was asked a couple of questions relating to the colour of rigging and what was Stockholm Tar. The discussion then went onto why not use it? At that point I had not been aware that it was available commercially as it only came up in one of my internet searches. I was aware of the concoctions that some Russian modellers had used on their prize winning models (via MSW1) and, if I recall correctly, they did not seem to have the associated dripping or greasy consequences from their solution, and the result looked very realistic. I thought it might bear further investigation soooo ..... At the moment I use a mixture of RIT fabric dye mixing Dark Brown with a bit of Black. Some of the suggestions put forward merit some further testing I think. cheers Pat
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Hey thanks guys, some very interesting discussion and feedback to my initial question. The lessons I draw to date are: 1. Tar may not be a great idea no matter how realistic 2. A Walnut type colour should be what we aim for. 3. Artist supplies are a good resource. That said, I will still do a sample and see how it goes with time. from all that has been said however it sounds like it is not a great option for a model unless to achieve a specific purpose (e.g. JCF's build). My experiment will primarily be to determine/confirm the colour and effect to be achieved to match the real stuff on a hemp coloured line/thread. many thanks again Pat
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Thanks JCF, that might be the way I go also as this will leave a residue in the lay lines very similar to the real thing (on a bigger scale); a dye simply colours the thread. Thanks for the link Jaager; Ed has some very interesting techniques worth exploring. If the Stockholm tar proves to messy or attracts too much dust this will certainly be worth a try. I think I will do a few samples and leave them exposed for a while to see how they handle heat and humidity as JCF inferred they might get greasy in hot weather, and also to see how much dust may accumulate over time. Thanks again for the feedback guys. cheers Pat
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