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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    That planking is looking really good Chris; progressing very nicely. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Thanks for the photos Greg and for looking in. I know that like a gate, it sometimes sits at an awkward angle when open, but flat/parallel to the surface when closed. But I am yet to be convinced this window was rounded and required such treatment. That said though, if the replica has these, and they do appear to be working versions, I may have to reconsider? cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Thanks Chris, you'll improve your skills as you go mate and end up showing me (and others) some new tricks also cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    And now for the start of the quarter badge windows. These are only 0.75mm thick and just over 5mm wide. I have attempted to show the louvers by inscribing on both sides then preshading before painting them red. these will be positioned in the open position. The AOTS and some drawings show these as angles up on one side and down on the other but I believe this to be incorrect. the angled positioning would be justified if the badge windows were in a rounded housing/gallery, but these windows (on Endeavour) are relatively flat and would there for open outward flat or 90 degrees to the plane of the window. Open to discussion here please cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Photos - part 2: you can see the supplied less detailed part in photo three. the drilled cradle shown is one of the 'rejected' parts (shown as the tree to the left in the collective photo). The posts have been drilled to accept the spigots but I have yet to determine how high above the post the cradle was actually positioned. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Hi again all ands another small update. i am heading off on holidays later this month so have put off starting on the yardarms. in the meantime I have started making some of the final fittings such as the swivel guns and Quarterbadge Window Shutters (separate post). The swivel guns provided (see parts photo) were a single moulded soft metal part which while showing some detail were not up to scratch. I purchased some small canon from Chuck which are real nice and I need to adapt these to be swivel guns including the cradle, post spigot and the training arms. The following photos show progress to date where I have completed the saddle to the point of drilling for the trunnions which will be soldered in place using 1mm brass rod (stiffer than wire) to form the trunnions. I have still to drill a hole in the bade to accept the post spigots. To make the cradle (consistent shape and drilling) I hand shaped the cradle from the brass strip stock shown using parallel pliers with a mark on the sides for width and for the height of one of the arms. this was then placed in a wooden template/jig that was of the required width of the cradle and marked for the position of the trunnion holes. A notch in the end of this allowed the brass strip to be seated correctly and then secured in a vise. I hand drilled the trunnion holes (with a few failures where I wandered off centre on the bottom hole (as shown in one of the photos). The drilled strip was then cut to height on the other arm, placed in my hand-held vise and shaped using a needle file. I will make the training arms from wire similar to the technique shown by Chuck. The post spigot holes will be drilled next and all parts soldered as required to complete the assembly. I will show these when I get to that part. Photos - part 1: cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Great work on the stern Mark, some defining detail there which will really dress your lady nicely. How long until she is upright? cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Great progress Greg, that is looking good. The 'wine' colouir and lino is very unusual for a deck covering and I would have thought prone to trapping moisture resulting in more ship's husbandry headaches? Must have worked though for them to have persisted with it. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    They look good BW; glad you took the tougher option as this adds some additional nice detail to the ship. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Thanks Popeye; yep in real life that would be the case and I agree in that some imperfections add a sense of reality - it would have been a very strict ship (and probably a mutinous environment) had these things been that precise cheers and thanks for looking in again Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi Ian, now that I am retired I have more time to read more logs and came across your very interesting and very nice build of Unicorn. Some great research and discussion here, and I look forward to taking the time to read through thoroughly in the near future. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Lovey bit of engineering and mini-machine production Wefalck - a work of precision art! cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Great attention to detail Danny - are you setting yourself any challenges with this minor build? cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Looking good mate; keep those updates coming as they are interesting readng. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Just an exercise sent to try your patience mate I am assuming (sorry no real other option of word) it is easier for you to cutaway and extend/fill-in other bits of the decking after plugging the hole a bit, than it is to remodel the superstructure? Which is more correct to the scale/actual size of the ship? Good luck but I know you'll be able to salvage the situation. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Hi Mikie, One way is to mark the small line for the slot, dimple the start point for several drill holes (to stop the bit wandering) and drill out a series of small holes along the line with the appropriately sized micro-drill bit - ensure one hole is at the near top and bottom of the slot. use a sharp blade to score the edge of the slot and cut out the waste; finish with a small file. If you have a mill this can be a lot easier - just ensure you set up the piece in the vice/holding jig on the sliding table accurately. That's how I did mine (at scale 1:60). cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Very nice work - great detail. It's a pity the customer took the lion before you completed it but I do look forward to your next effort. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Thanks John, Chris and Mark - glad I was able to recover it. Looking at the photos though show how uneven the line of the deadeyes are - not very seaman like - they actually don't look as bad in reality.
  19. BANYAN
    While waiting for paint to dry , I tried a bit of puddening to see how it would look cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    OK folks, repairs completed. I decided to simply reslot the channel as the boat boom (when fitted later) will mask any obvious repair marks. The following photos show most of the process. I temporarily pinned the affected shroud to keep it clear and prevent any slackening of the ratlines etc. I then removed the chain plate, slotted the channel capping in preparation for the repaired chain plate, cleaned up the fitting and resoldered the padeye ring to the chains, then refitted the assembly. I used a scrap piece of wood to create the 'plug' in the channel capping then rerove a new lanyard and touched up with paint. One of the benefits of painting is that it can hide these joints What do you think? Cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    i again Paul, I have found the lathe invaluable, not just for the jobs you have already identified, but also for creating profiles/mouldings, canon carriages, ship's wheel etc. I have found the Sherline an excellent tool - quality + Sorry mate, wasn't trying to infer that you didn't know it was expensive, just pointing out that for a small job such as the mice/buoys it might not have been value for money. PM me if you need further info. I think it is worth considering if you have some spare pocket money ) cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    What a boon that laser cutter is Mark; the new piece is such a dramatic improvement. Now, can you loan it to me to remove (cut away) the capping from my midship channel cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Happy birthday mate; have a few coldies and a good lie down cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Thanks Mark, I am still debating whether to take the full length of the capping off the channel or just cut a slot and replace it after repairing the chain plate, and using the boat boom (when fitted later) to assist in masking the joints. I am worried that in attempting to remove the full length of capping that I may cause even further damage and with all the rigging on the mast near complete, that would be a tremendous setback. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    No worries Greg Hi Paul, Greg is right - I only used the lathe as I had it - a (grown up) file or even sanding stick (with appropriate grits) will work equally as well (just take much longer). The lathe I use is not a cheap solution as I have a Sherline (metric version with extended bed) and I used the compound sliding plate/rail. Sherline is not cheap but you get what you pay for. A cheaper mill will work for you but you need to do a lot more tuning and refining to it, and the accessories can be equally as costly in many cases. cheers Pat

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