druxey
-
Posts
13,004 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by druxey
-
Well, Steven, it looks like you had a battle royal there! Balancing any forces in such thin and delicate structures is a real challenge. Some parts need to be cut to shape rather than bent sometimes. However, it looks like you won! Persistence paid off. -
If you hadn't mentioned it, I wouldn't have noticed. I'm sure no-one else would have either!
-
I'd take Danny's advice on Castello or even English boxwood for those deadeyes, especially the small sizes. Dyeing is easy, if a little messy. Incidentally it's easier to solder up the chains before putting in the deadeyes. After cleaning and blackening the chains, a gentle squeeze with needle-nose pliers closes up the ring of the deadeye link around the deadeye.
-
I don't think too many folk will notice that, Mike! She's looking very nice indeed.
-
Looks lovely, Rusty. However, won't getting the lower shrouds rigged be a problem now?
- 310 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
Frégate la Cornélie 1795
druxey replied to JohnE's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Those lines look sweet and lovely, John. Your description of getting there is laugh-out-loud funny! I guess not so much for you, though. Well done. -
Beautifully done, Alexandru. Would you consider replacing the supporting rods with clear acrylic ones?
-
Shaping frames fore and aft
druxey replied to AndyG's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You could, but if you've accidentally removed a little too much.... -
Ah. Remember, it took three or four tries until I got my first set of cant frames right! Why should you - or anyone else - learn faster? Seriously, it's all part of the learning curve. Persevere, my friend. You are getting there. As Robert Louis Stevenson wrote, "It is better to travel hopefully than to arrive."
-
Shaping frames fore and aft
druxey replied to AndyG's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If I understand your dilemma correctly, you are concerned with having sufficient wood for the extreme bevels at the bow of your model. Each frame will have an outer contour for its larger edge and smaller edge, the difference being the amount of bevel. If you take the smaller edge and then plot the thickness of the frame inside that, it will define the inner contour of the (unbevelled) frame when coupled with the larger outer contour. Does this help? And yes, bevelling and fairing the hull is easier when assembled! -
There should be no issue if you use white or yellow glue to attach the frames. Just mop up any glue squeeze-out with a wet brush before the glue sets up.
-
"Tinted wax" (medium) finish (left) and clear (right).
-
Coming along nicely, Mike!
-
Frégate la Cornélie 1795
druxey replied to JohnE's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
There is an English translation of Ollivier by the late David Roberts, published by Jean Boudriot Publications, ISBN0-948864-11-7. You may be able to locate copy on abebooks.com but it will be pricey! -
I agree, Gaetan. My current model hull (much smaller) with about 40 couples at 1:48 scale is stable as I assembled the framing and then fitted the deck clamps immediately. The model was bolted to a building board to keep the keel straight and flat until the wales were also added. Of course, with your 1:24 model the various forces are much larger.
-
Trussben's Pegasus framing at 1:48 had a similar problem with changes in humidity distorting the framing because of the spacers. Expansion/contraction gaps seem to be the answer.
-
Just don't continue to shrink....
-
Ah, the legendary Studley cabinet! Isn't it amazing. Now, Mark, don't get side-tracked into creating a replica!
-
Very neat work on all those port sills!
-
Good stuff, Alan. Keep your pencil point sharp, though, as thick lines = potential error.
Our Emblem ®
