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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. Al, I know there's other ways of doing it, but that's the one that's working for me. You might have to look through the logs, possibly the very first ones that were re-posts after the crash (EweK's and Scottucus) and some of the others like Rusty's, zLed', Rafine's and others and see how they did it.
  2. Jud, Have look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2700-modeling-shipboard-equipment-a-capstan-based-on-hms-victorys/?hl=%2Bcapstan+%2Bmessenger#entry76875 Particularly post #5. Dafi has done a lot research on this.
  3. Here's what I did and used basically the same method on my Licorne. I have 2 pieces of 1/4" thick glass that are 12 X 12. Lay one down and edge glue the first layer of frames. Do be sure to tape the frame assembly to the underside of the glass or lay it on top and cover with plastic wrap so the frame doesn't stick to it. I put glue on the edges, let it get tacky and then stick them together and put the other glass piece on top. About 30 minutes later, add another futtock. Once the first layer is done, add the second layer (let the glue get tacky first) and then put the glass on and let it cure out. I'm sure others have different methods but that worked for me. I think one of the builders did the treenails as they were building but for that, you'd start with the keel pieces and work your way up.
  4. Funny thing about this topic... everyone has their idea of which ship or type of ships. Yet when one looks at the kit builds there's a big gap. There's the Vic's and Connie's en masse. The odd balls, the work ships, the little known... not so much. Even the scratch area although they are all over the map there's still some in the "majority". The ideal model also seems to be divided by continent or country even... One thing I have noticed is that there is a big aftermarket for parts like what Chuck is bringing out. I'm doing a scratchbuild and yes, I'll be using some aftermarket stuff because I don't have the tooling, inclination, nor the expertise to design and build some parts. Maybe the ala carte method is a good one. It's like buying a basic car and the adding options. The problem is the picking of the basic car or ship in this case. I guess I'm saying, I'd sure hate to be a kit designer and try to figure out the market. :
  5. John, The battens and the thread looked pretty good from the pictures. Look everything over from one end, and then the other end until you're pleased with the plank run. You'll be tapering the planks so use the tick strip method between the battens/string to get the plankwidths at each bulkhead. In other words, if it's say 5 full size planks at the midship line (largest area/bulkhead), then as you move for and aft you'll see that those 5 plank will probably narrow. Since this is a kit and spiling may not be possible with the planking materials, drop planks and stealers will work. Have look here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php The Chuck tutorials do explain the tick strips pretty well.
  6. Brian, Welcome to MSW. You've done a great job on the St. Helena. I'd suggest you open a log as your building as help will be available, if you need it, during the process and not afterwards. BTW, there is a club that meets in Portland on the riverfront.
  7. All I can do is shake my head and be amazed. If my boats turn out half this good I'd be happy.
  8. I was thinking the Star Trek bridge also. Nice work on the bridge, Kees. So much detail in there as it is, I'm not sure what else you could put in.
  9. Nenad, Too bad you can't modify the strops you have made and if the hole needed to just a bit wider. What Gerhard said... it's a learning experience and we're all doing that. Hang in there.
  10. Ouch.. I clicked "like" not because of the disaster but because of your attitude. I'd suggest "recuperate" with relaxing potion of your choice first. Then tomorrow jump in. I think a lot of us have been there and dropped the ship.
  11. And definitely stronger than wood. The thin wood ones will work but putting any stress on them is very problematical.
  12. Another part of the canal boat problem is that there were no "standard" sizes. Even the canals varied in width and depth. I'm originally from Ohio and there's canal remnants all over where I was (Dayton). And while there's bits of the canals still visible, no boats. In the Civil War (or not-so-civil-War), many times the Army took an existing riverboat and converted it to an ironclad with no plans, just local labor and materials.
  13. Amy, The best I offer is to go to the main entry for this forum: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/11-build-logs-for-scratch-ship-model-projects/ and type into the search box: restoration I got 3 pages of topics but only a few of them apply. The word "restoration" is or should be in the title so that should speed the search up.
  14. Interesting project, Walter. I wonder if this is one of the "kit" ships where they made the frames in England and shipped them to the Colonies?
  15. Al. Check the home DIY stores like Lowe's and Home Depot. I, personally opted for the 18" long bed as I have need for this saw to be dual purpose... home stuff and ship stuff. I also started online using their websites and scrutinized the reviews carefully. Some reviews will blast it and some will praise the product but one needs to read deeper and see the "why?". For example, I was looking at a bandsaw and the one with great reviews wouldn't handle the wood thickness I wanted to cut. So it's a matter of perspective.
  16. I don't think that block is stropped upside down. The holes should be at the top of the block when running the rigging through them to simulate going over the sheave.
  17. I had a single speed Delta early on but it had some bearing issues. Anyway, I find the variable speed very useful as it gives you more control of your cuts.
  18. Frank, Welcome to MSW. Go to the Kit builds and search using "Harriet Lane" (without quotes). Looks like there's several builds there.
  19. That probably makes sense as they could take a bigger haul using power. Keeps the beds from being stripped completely. Thanks for the info.
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