mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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You didn't learn patience in the Marines? As I recall, everything was "hurry up and wait"....
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Richie, If you go here: http://modelshipworld.com/ you'll see various forums/sections, etc. Down a bit are the "Member Build Logs". What you'll want for your kit is in this section: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/ I suggest you read the pinned topic and look over the logs to get an idea of how they're done. Here's a link to how to do things: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/47-questionsinstructions-on-how-to-use-and-post-to-this-forumsite-problems-or-suggestions/
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Richie, If no one else has said it.... open a build log. Overall, it will be the best way to get help and encouragement and make some friends along the way. It really is the best tool in the toolbox. As for your query... can you post a pic or two?
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Budget DIY Table Saw?
mtaylor replied to Q A's Revenge's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Looks like it might. The only questions would be about the accuracy of the fence, blade wobble, etc... -
Do a search for JerryTodd's builds. He does large scale RC frigates and his homepage in his sig as well as his build logs have a lot of good info.
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
mtaylor replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Your work just continues to be amazing, Doris.- 883 replies
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Bob, Sorry to hear about the accident but happy that you're well. Thanks for posting this. Might I suggest you also post in the Metalwork sub-forum as I think this is pretty important bit of safety info.
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Rusty, I'm pulling up a chair and going to follow along. Good luck and happy building. You're off to a good start and I predict a great finish.
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PROXXON DSH 2 SPEED SCROLL SAW – REVIEW.
mtaylor replied to Blue Ensign's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
B.E., Nice saw.... very nice. A couple of hopefully some helpful tips. 1) That clear plastic guard is for the lawyers. I had the same issue and question on my scroll saw and the various people I talked said to take it off, and keep your fingers off the blade. 2) The hole through the table for the blade... does it have a ledge? I'm thinking you'll want to make a zero (or at least a very small) clearance insert to go in there. 3) The blow tube... move it as close to the junction of the wood and blade as you can. The closer it is, the better it will work. Seems most of these saws use a bellows attached to the blade arms to pump the air. 4) Wax the saw table with a good grade of paste wax. The will slide easier. -
Wood lathe templates or jigs
mtaylor replied to rtropp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sorry Richard. I know there's been some who use either a bought duplicator (Vandalay) or make their own for the metal lathes. I'm thinking it wouldn't be much different for wood... or would it? -
We buy books on how to build, why not a DVD. I've been considering this one but haven't bought it yet.
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Barry, They never did really have any dedicated tools for this mill. Basically you buy the R8 (or equivalent from other manufacturer's/sellers) and adapt them. A real PITA since the bigger machines use the M8 hardware and this one uses the M4 hardware..... Coolant? For what? Unless you're milling metal, coolant isn't needed.
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Kats. Heal first, ship comes later. Your post indicates you're doing better and I'd like to see what you come with for workspace.
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Nice work, Popeye.
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Wow! Impressive work, Gary. You got quite a bit done.
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I'll add another voice to the appreciative chorus. Thanks for sharing this beautiful build, Nils.
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Thanks for looking in, the comments and the "likes". The Thurston saw blades came in and so far, the testing looks great. I'm not seeing the scoring on the cut like the MM blades. I slept on it and dug out a bit of boxwood. I'm going to replace it. Dave, I'm trying EdT's method of pigment. Here's my test post: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5339-licorne-by-mtaylor-pof-316-french-frigate-hahn-version-20/?p=164373 The cat has landed.... Enjoy the popcorn. We have plenty and this will be a long journey. Thanks Ed. I also thought about a bit of the "v" groove between joints... I don't like the paper idea due to the strength issues, but I'll do some testing. I think more pigment, when I get to the planking, might be good. I'll be testing this also during the framing. Why waste a good pot of glue? Thanks Dan, I think you're right on the glue lines... the stem gets overshadowed by the rigging and all the headwork. I think I'll follow your advise on the bobstay holes. There's a unicorn that needs to fit in there... yikes! The gammoning hole would be close to put them in now, but waiting is probably a good idea.
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Nice rework of the shop. And absolutely lovely work on the boom. Walter is right... time to turn to.
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That was a gutsy Captain and crew on the frigate.... even a damaged Trinidad had to have been case of the mouse attacking the elephant.
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Frame shape transition-Problems with Model Shipways kit frames.
mtaylor replied to bear's topic in Wood ship model kits
Keith, If you still need assistance, post us a couple of pictures... one from the side and one from either the stern or the bow looking low to see the deckline. Maybe one side from an angle also. By all means, open a build log so we can follow along and see what's happening. You'll soon find out that a log is best tool to have in the toolbox. -
Wild cats and all... Willy in the background playing "On the Road Again". Anyway, here's an update. Keel is ready.... keelson is being re-used. It's cherry and will be hidden so why re-invent the wheel. The stem is just about there. I'm sorting out a way to make the caulking/felt lines better. There seems to be something (not sure how it happens) that when there's a very tight fit, the glue line disappears. A good thing? Or an aggrevation? The stem still needs some mill work for the gammoning holes and two (I think) through holes for the bobstays. The plans aren't clear on this and pictures from the article and the CD aren't clear in this area. Also trying to sort out the taper on this, if any. I'm currently redoing the sternpost in boxwood. The picture shows the Version 1.0 sternpost and rudder that were never put on the old ship. I'm thinking about the rudder given the wood contrasts based on the test, I'm trying visualize if I should re-do it boxwood or not.
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Augie, Great looking planking. Leave it uncoppered as the 'Merikins didn't use the stuff at that time. If you remember, this was one of the very first and if it hadn't been rotted when the English took her, they would have coppered her. I think it's in Hahn's book that this was noted by the shipyard where they inspected her.
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Ah... made it before the sawdust started flying... I'll take one of the chairs off to the side... but I couldn't find the llama....
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A very well done on the staple. If you hadn't told us this was your first silver solder job, I wouldn't have guessed it.
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