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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Creating Hull Planking
mtaylor replied to fnkershner's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Floyd, I can't remember where I saw it, but in one of your table slots, fit some wood with an "adjuster" such that it is the distance from the blade of the plank you need ot cut. It should be set such that's in front of the blade. Put the wood to be cut against this adjuster and move the fence over. With each succeeding plank, just reset the wood and move the fence. It works very well. I think it was garyshipwright or EdT who showed this in one of their builds. What I'm using are two featherboards. One in the normal mount on the fence to hold the wood down. The other is distance from the blade to the featherboard. The plank comes off, I move the fence and wood to the featherboard and cut another. Very repeatable and very thin strips can be cut. The pic at the bottom is my setup. YMMV. What the others have said about the thicker blade works a treat. If you're not sanding each plank, waste is minimal. The kerf is part the game as such and should be figured into the calculation when ordering stock. I figure about a 50% yield for 1/16" planks for ordering. Yield is higher depending on how quickly I can dial in the featherboard distance. -
Creating Hull Planking
mtaylor replied to fnkershner's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Floyd, On step 5... is the plank being cut off between the blade and the fence? Or on the free side of the blade (where the fence isn't? Using a zero-clearance insert? Not sure why you can't get any thinner. Since you're thicknessing anyways, a bit of ripple or non-uniformity won't hurt but overall might get you a few more planks out of your slab of wood. -
Need help with Revell U.S.S. Constitution
mtaylor replied to Kimberley's topic in Plastic model kits
Another way is to use thin thread and the smallest (thinnest) needle that will work with the thread. Run the needle through the shrouds and then knot the ends to the end shrouds (or just glue them). -
Kevin, Even the night shot looks great. Very clean work.
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- caldercraft
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Sweet work, Augie. I guess I need to find more time to get to MSW just to keep up with you and Mobbsie.
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ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
mtaylor replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
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Robbyn, That looks almost right. Take the running end and run it behind the part going upwards. That way it will hold it securely. After you're sure it's properly taut, touch some fabric glue or PVA to it. Make the rope coil "off ship" and put it on the pin. I like the new profile picture. You two look happy.
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You forgot: "and expecting different results." Wait.. that's what I do. Uh-oh.... I'll get my coat. The 38 with extra long sleeves.
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Now we need a "don't like" button.... Beautiful carving work that crumbled. I know it happens but I don't like to see or hear that at all.
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Uh-oh... 10-letter words, Hobbymill wood... and JP telling you to take the blue pill. You are destined for the darkside, my friend. Abandon all hope ye who have entered here. Alas, alack, and happy building. Next thing you know, it's the Jim Saw... I need to step outside and return to my own bit of delusion.
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Sjors, Congratulations on the finishing the ratlines!!!! Take a moment and smile and feel good about them. Times up...go get some more done.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
mtaylor replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Nenad, Excellent progress. I too, am impressed.- 4,152 replies
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John, Sorry to hear about the bad day. I think we all have them. We're a patient lot so don't worry about disappointing. On the other hand, we get impatient on our own builds.
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