mtaylor
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Everything posted by mtaylor
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Which (following on to Adam) is why certain companie's products are banned from the buildlogs. They pirated the plans and/or the kit. In one case, they pirated the kit and then had the temerity to pirate the photo's (from Harold Hahn) as being "what the kit makes"....
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Farawayman, The mere fact that you are able to post says you accept certain rules. We have no authority over a user's pics. They are his/hers. The onus is on the poster. We merely follow along and enforce it. As far as your pointing out the pictures... there is in copyright, something called "fair use". Loosely it means that you can use a copyrighted photo/article, etc. in reviews, etc. Also, using the image of a manufacturer's ship in the context of a buildlog would probably be considered "free advertising" by the company.
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Pete, If Russ agrees, put that treenail info into a new topic in the download area. I think it would be very useful to have.
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Peter, Basically the same way as posts. Except hit the "Use Full Editor" button. You'll see the "Attach Files" down to the left. Here's the discussion on PM's: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/718-adding-photos-to-private-message/
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You can "blame" Russ and, as I recall, Don for the plans. You can blame Joss (Matrim) as he took over running this when Russ stepped down. I guess if blaming is there... I blame MSW for giving me the idea to settle on 1:64 for all full hull models. Had to buy a printer that could handle 11 X 17 paper. BTW, need I mention the power tools...? Maybe all the build logs did it? :D
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Treenails? Some folks do it your way. Some actually do treenails from bamboo or other woods. Others simulate with a pencil or even a hypodermic needle. and then there's those that don't do them. I'm one who prefers 1:64 and probably won't be treenailing.
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Let's hope he does. I've seen two ways, so far. Daniel's: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/536-micro-blocks/ and Chuck's: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/273-mass-producing-rigging-blocks-with-a-mill/
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Nice to see this one coming back, Chris. I've always liked your build of the Fly.
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Floyd, My only comments would be 1) the bell could be forward or aft. Check the spacing on the stove pipe. It could be behind the foremast as many time, there's no room in front of it below the weather deck. Otherwise, go for it!!!!
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Ray, If I were to get back into kits, I think this one would be near the top of my list. Although the two Chris Watton new kits should be tempting also. I'll just sit over here in the balcony and watch.
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Walt, I've had halts and pauses also here. I suspect that it's due to the heavy load of posts and users right now.
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coloring handmade rigging line
mtaylor replied to davec's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
Silkspan, maybe. Cotton isn't. -
There's also a stainable version. I haven't tried but I've heard good things. As always, your mileage may vary and test, test, test first.
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Daniel, I'm answering from the point of practicality as I've not seen a whole lot of authentic documentation. On the netting... I don't think they would have been tarred as the tarring would have transferred to the hammock. Where I've seen them bent is only on the short cranes. The taller ones, it would have been easier to have them unbent. Stacking would have easier by standing on end. What I have seen documented is that the hammocks were 18 inches wide by 6 feet long. They were provided with a "bag" for storage. The hammock was rolled such that the final dimension was 18 inches long (the width of the hammock) and about 7 inches in diameter. The bosun had a hoop that each hammock had to pass through before they could be stowed.
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Another Rope Walk
mtaylor replied to michael mott's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
NIce looking rope Michael. -
coloring handmade rigging line
mtaylor replied to davec's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
It should be noted that coffee and tea are acidic and will rot the rigging (and sails) over time. -
I do some soaking but I found that an old curling iron cast-off from wife works very well. Set the heat to about 250 F, and just move the strip over the iron while bending it. A light wetting (a minute or so) helps. Word of advice... get your own curling iron or buy your wife a new one and take her old one. I wouldn't want to hear of any major battles or divorces over curling irons.
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Overestimating is actually a fine idea. Gives you lots of wiggle room and re-do capability without peering at the woodpile and fearing you'll run out.
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Michael, What a fantastic looking block.. and it works! Wow.
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Nice work. Very clean and I like the different shade of the planking.
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Hmm... the first layer does look, shall we say, well-weathered. Nice save, Larry.
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Hi Sarah, I'm going from memory on some of the other builds on this ship and ships of that era. #1) I believe "pointy end" up is correct. #2) Yes, the manhole covers would be right. #3) Those would be the anchor chain scuttles. The chain feed through them and goes into the chain locker. As for shape...I'm not sure if they would extend very far, if at all, above the deck. Hopefully, someone will jump in an tell me where I'm wrong.
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Ira, I hope you'll give some serious thought to opening a build log. First off, you'll get lots of help. Second, you'll leave a legacy for others to use. As for your question. If the gaps aren't too big, than gather some sawdust of the planking wood and mix with a bit of white glue (I also thin it a bit with water, others dont'). Force that mix into the gaps and when dry, carefully sand. You may have to do the a couple of times.
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I too remember this build. Looking forward to seeing the rest of it. Beautiful work, Vince.
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Lovely capstan, Robert. The inlay work is excellent.
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