Nirvana
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Everything posted by Nirvana
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Un-install and try again. Would be my first step.
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This is for sure a side note, but music is my thing as well, had a 1980 9-piece Super Classic back in the early 90's with a Black Beauty from 1972. The cymbals was of the Istanbul brand, sounded so good. Miss that set today. Looked like this, unfortunate not my set.- 90 replies
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John, Looking good. The last picture really intrigued me, with the musical instruments in the back ground. Is that a Fender guitar? And which model of the Ludwig drums is that? I am a drummer myself.
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Floyd, that looks so good. Well done!
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Ron, open up the extension library, there are tons of add-ons for various "curves". As for inspiration here is a yacht done in SketchUp There are a lot of tutorials in this matter, Bing or Google it. I found many doing so.
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Dry fitting parts before gluing is a good thing. This way I can see when adjustments are needed or how attaching parts are to be located on deck. One example is the Samson post together with the bowsprit. This area is a tricky one, several parts going together in various ways. Also I find the space under the main rail at the bowsprit very tight for a final assembled unit to be pushed through. Will look into some other build logs for inspiration of how-to.
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Some light touch ups and then I will put on a protective satin varnish. The surface is sensitive to scratches.
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Painting done! Masking tape off and then removal of the waterline tape. The waterline turned out better than I expected.
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So I did go with scuppers anyway. I created a simple jigg for this purpose as the waist is already there. At least they will be noticeable from the outside. The holes in the wider part are slightly wider than the stanchions. This needle is not being used when doing the holes only to hold the jigg in place for photo session.
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Floyd, I might go for the scuppers anyway, it's not to late to do them. This as the waist looks heavy without them.
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Keith, Isn't the heat gun a great tool? I used it, while planking the Longboat and the Bluenose. Great helper.
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Brian, Here we go, 1: Clamp a piece of plank approx. 6-8" covering three bulkhead. See picture: Three red arrow line. Then insert the fake stanchions, see green line. These are to be even spaced between bulkheads. There are three stanchions between each bulkhead. Now continue this procedure all the way, starboard and port side. There are some cutting involved to get them done. Once this is done, cut the bulkhead tops off. I have an extremely fine-tooth saw (razor blade size) which I used for this. Insert the fake stanchions where you cut the bulkheads out. Work the stem and stern area before any waist planking is done. As for the scuppers, I omitted them as they are so small. Hope this explained how I did mine. I wouldn't say my way is the perfect one, I think we all are re-thinking the "wheel" with each build of any ship.
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Hello gentleman,,, I am a new member ,,
Nirvana replied to Jaan Ojala's topic in New member Introductions
Jaan, Warm , are you Dutch? -
Brian, Sure you can go that direction you are mentioned, but in the instructions it's kind of easily explained. Re-read that section and look at Bluenose build and you will see. However, I placed the "fake" stanchions a equal distance in-between the bulkheads and then cut the bulkheads and put in more "fakes", if you doing this properly and let the glue set the planking will be easy.
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So I had the first coat of the black/blue coating over the hull, but I don't fancy it to much. It has more of a blue/green tone, so I am to experiment of mixing to create the tone I like. Again, always write down the rations so I will remember for future use. I will also create my own color chart.
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Something I have always wanted to try
Nirvana replied to StönCüld's topic in New member Introductions
Stönculd, First a warm You have a great girl friend and her choice of model. On Amatis website they have video instructions of the build. All the way through. There are also many build logs in here. Research will be necessary and maybe reaching out to the curator at the museum in Denmark. Good luck. -
Mike, I have had it apart already and after the Windex solution for cleaning my unit works real well. But yes, I will look into getting spare parts. Thanks for the recommendation.
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The lower part is done. The anti-fouling reddish is as I want. Next was to mask the lower area, so the blackish/blue could be applied. I am so happy working with the air brush, the out-come is so much better than a regular brush. Following two pictures is showing the somewhat result, this as the port has been painted and sanded and the starboard is partly painted.
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Hello from Klamath Falls Oregon
Nirvana replied to OldBritAbroad's topic in New member Introductions
Hugh, a warm and Merry Christmas to you. -
Ron, thanks for the tutorial even though I have been using SketchUp ever since it came out and gone through several owners, Trimble the last one for now. I have learned something new and will try to in-cooperate the 3D printing as well.
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Anti-foul painting done, currently masking off for the blackis/blue paint. Vallejo had the perfect tone.
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As for the laser setup I used my Gitzo tripod with a separate head (Gitzo - Swiss made ) The tripod is heavy duty and not light to carry around. Will take a picture of it later. Floyd, time for you to change your avatar to your T37! Edit: Picture as promised: look at the weight in the scale window.
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The plastic on the deck is new to me, to prevent paint on bare wood.....
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Air Brush Paints
Nirvana replied to Worldway's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Derek, once you have tried air brushing you will be hooked. I enjoyed it tremendously, and I am a true novice. -
One (long) is sitting on the mdf board to get the board longitudinal leveled and then one (small) across the "railing" to get Blue the other longitudinal right. See page 5, last posting, picture 2 and 3.
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