ancre La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette

[Gahm]

I can only agree, you achieve perfection in your build!

 

Thomas

[archjofo]

 

@Gahm

@giampieroricci

@aviaamator

@Keith Black

 

Thank you very much for your participation in my project and the motivating announcements. Thank you also to all the others for the LIKES.
And here are the latest pictures of the rigging of the topmast shrouds.

 

 

 

 

 

[archjofo]

Here's a quick update:

 

 

 

 

[Jorge Diaz O]

A work of art, magnificent, unreal, majestic ... A divine inspiration. Do you authorize me to keep these photographs for my future work sir?

[archjofo]

@Jorge Diaz O

Thank you very much for your positive comment. Also many thanks to all for the many LIKES.

 

In the meantime I have also finished the fore topmast shrouds (ø 0.67 mm). The diameter of the dead eyes is ø 3.1 mm. 

 

 

[captain_hook]

Fantastic work! It is difficult to recognize whether it is a model or a real ship.

[bruce d]

Johann, the model is fantastic but I have to say the rigging is almost unbelievable. You are the master of rigging realism.

[archjofo]

@captain_hook

@bruce d

Thank you very much for your nice comments and to all the others for the many LIKES.

 

In the meantime I am already working on the mizzen topmast shrouds. There the dead eyes have a diameter of only 2.3 m. 

 

 

[noel_colledge]

Maybe it is a trick of the camera, but when you place all those deadeyes together in their appropriate sizes, you can see how wrong kits are with their one size fits most approach.

 

Who would have thought half a millimetre would make that much difference to a deadeye.

 

You are certainly a master rigger amongst other things Johann.

 

Bravo.

 

 

[Jeronimo]

Hello Johann.

Beautiful work.

Karl

[archjofo]

@noel_colledge

@Jeronimo

 

Hello,

I would like to thank you in advance for your attention, and of course all the others for the many LIKES.

I almost forgot the tye blocks for the mizzen topmast. These tye blocks are 5 mm long, so they are smaller than, for example, the main masthead. The double strops are also thinner, but also served.

The dead eyes and the block are only shown for size comparison.

 

 

Edited March 20, 2021 by archjofo

[archjofo]

In the meantime I have finished the mizzen topmast shrouds.

 

 

 

I have made the preparations for the mizzen topmast backstays. The implementation will take place soon.

Here I show how to determine the diameter of a rope relatively accurately (13,6,41 mm / 20 = 0,67 mm).

The picture shows a dead eye with a diameter of 2.8 mm for the tackle to be attached to the mizzen topmast backstays on the channels.
You can also see a rope with a diameter of 0.67 mm for the mizzen topmast backstays.

 

 

 

 

 

[Mic.fr]

Super work, bravo !

[archnav]

Hello Hans,

 

you know I love your model and your ropework looks so beautiful !

 

Last stage and never forget the motivation before you retire. Just imagine all the time you'll have to finish your little French girl. I wish you a wonderful last working period and when the time comes, we will celebrate.

 

( Yo baby - Yo baby - Yo baby - Yo ! )  🤪

Edited March 27, 2021 by archnav

[archjofo]

@archnav

@Mic.fr

 

thank you both for the kind comments. Thanks to the others for all the LIKES, of course.

It is always a pleasure to receive such feedback. It motivates me and gives me strength for monotonous work.

 

I have now finished the mizzen topmast backstays for the starboard side. For these standing backstays, two on each side of the ship, I made the lanyards from Japanese silk 4 x 1, which gives a diameter of 0.30 mm.  

 

 

 

 

 

The next step is to attach the shifting backstays for the mizzen topgallant.

 

Edited April 2, 2021 by archjofo

[archjofo]

Hello,

before I start, I would like to show the mizzen topmast head with the standing backstays as a supplement to my last report.

 

Contrary to my announcement, I will finish all the standing backstays first. It makes more sense to finish the rigging on one level first and then go upstairs.
So I continued with the main topmast backstays. 

 

I made these backstays from a rope with ø 0.81 mm (8 x 3 jap. silk YLI). The dead eyes have a diameter of 4 mm). 

 

Here you can see the main topmast with the backstays.

 

The double blocks for the shifting backstays are already installed on the channel of the main mast.

 

Edited April 5, 2021 by archjofo

[mbp521]

Johann,

 

Simply amazing and precise work. A true pleasure to watch your work. 
 

-Brian

[archjofo]

 

@mbp521

Hello,

thank you for your positive comment. I also want to thank the others for the many LIKES.

 

Today I made the standing fore topgallants backstays.
For these standing backstays, two on each side of the ship, I make the lanyards from Japanese silk 3x 3, which gives a diameter of 0.40 mm.  The backstays are made of rope with a diameter of 0.77 mm, also made of Japanese silk 7 x 3. The dead eyes have a diameter of 3.4 mm.

 

 

Here you can see the fore top head with the standing backstays:

 

And you can also see the mizzen top backstays. Please note the metal plates for the fids.  

 

 

 

Edited April 10, 2021 by archjofo

[Dowmer]

Once again, always a pleasure to see your updates. A marvelous and extraordinary attention to detail that pushes me  to model to a higher standard. Thank you Johann 😀

[GrandpaPhil]

Absolutely beautiful work!  Your model looks like a real ship!

[archjofo]

@Dowmer

@GrandpaPhil

 

 

After mounting the main mast backstays, I was surprised to see that they go very close to the top and partly touch it.
What happened there? 
Is the plan wrong? 
Are the attachment points for the lanyards on the channels incorrect or too far inside? 
In my search for explanations I found what I was looking for. On the one hand, I read that it apparently often happened that the backstays came too close to the tops, and thus there was a danger of rubbing. 
And, this is exactly the case with the L'Hermione as well. And, as you can see in the next picture, the backstays were dressed in the critical areas. 
 

 

So this detail would also be cleared up. Accordingly, I will additionally serve the corresponding backstays in the said areas.

 

Finally, I would like to show you the double blocks for the shifting backstays that have been made in the meantime. The smaller double blocks are for the shifting backstays that lead to the mizzen topgallant.

[Gahm]

Johann, it is such a pleasure to follow your build log! Wonderful work!

 

Thomas

[archjofo]

@Gahm

 Hello,

Thomas, many, many thanks for your kind comment. 
Thank you also to all the others for the many LIKES.

Such a response always makes us happy and gives us motivation to continue.

 

Today I would like to report briefly on a small mishap.
I thought that I could attach the sister blocks for the topmast shrouds directly to the model.

Of course, this does not work. Good thing I haven't tied the lanyards yet.
So I will have to remove the topmast shrouds again.
Before I do that, I made a prototype for a sister block to see how they will be attached.

Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime

 

The one hole is drilled too far in the middle. I will do better than that.
 

[archjofo]

Hello,

today I show the sister blocks that have been made in the meantime.
Now also properly integrated, not as incorrectly shown in the last post.

[mbp521]

Simply beautiful Johann. 
 

-Brian

[archjofo]

Hello,

today I show a sister block that has already been integrated into the topmast shrouds.

 

 

Here is a historical example of a sister block shown on the model of the brig l'Esperance from 1810 and a drawing from around the middle of the 19th century.

 

[archjofo]

Hello,

in keeping with the theme, a picture from the rigging of the Götheborg II with a sister block:

Edited May 14, 2021 by archjofo

[archjofo]

Hello,

La Créole also had breast-backstays and had them on the mainmast and foremast. 
I am currently making the double blocks (length 6 mm) for the tackles. These will be hooked into an eyebolt on the channel.

 

Here is an attempt to show the leather lining of the hole in the cap.

 

Here I show an example from the L'Hermione.

 

 

Edited May 14, 2021 by archjofo

[Jorge Diaz O]

😍

[Hubac's Historian]

As I’ve said before, this is work of the highest quality.  If I may be so specific, though, what I love most about your log is that you de-mystify the practicalities of scale rigging; much can be accomplished with articulated alligator clamps!  This, in itself, is really inspiring to me.  One can do really excellent hull work, masting and spar work.  However, if the rigging isn’t crisp and detailed to match the rest of the model, then something is lost there.

 

I really appreciate what you are accomplishing, here.