Tools and Supplies for My "Shipyard"

[Landlocked123]

One more piece of advise, absolutely start a build log on MSW. You will access more expert help and friendship than you thought possible.

 

Best,

John

[Bob Blarney]

You might find some good quality tools at sites/business that cater to the jewelry-making crowd.  Many of them have reasonable prices.

[dgbot]

One thing you should remember is that many veneers have a grain direction and your xacto blade may run with them.  I have used a coping saw many times with a fine TPI when cutting from veneer.  Or a veneer saw and a straight edge.  

David B

[daveward]

Thanks, guys!  I appreciate all the good advice!  This forum has been wonderful to me so far -- of the many forums for my various hobbies in which I've posted, this has to be one of the friendliest.  

 

I had planned from the beginning to start a build log here on the site.  I'll try to tear myself away from building for a few moments to take some pictures of the process.  I'm planning on taking a very slow and methodical approach to my build.  Based on the way I want to do my planking, I imagine I'll be doing 1-2 planks per night.  I want to get all my measurements, cut out the plank, trim it, and get a tiny bevel on the top edge so that everything fits perfectly.  Then, I'll soak it, bend it around the bulkheads, and clamp it in place.  I'll let it dry and take shape, then come back and do a final fitting check before gluing it in place with my Titebond III.  It will take me a long time to get finished, but I think this method will provide the most aesthetically pleasing results.  I know that patience is key in a hobby like this!  I'll try to take some nice closeups of the different steps I'm taking -- perhaps they'll help out other modelers in the future!  

 

Anyway, my kit will be arriving at my front door this afternoon, so hopefully I'll be able to get some of the bulkheads fitted tonight.  I can't wait to get started!  Thanks again for all the help, and good luck on your builds!

[texxn5]

Have fun, this is a great hobby, and good "therapy"...lol please be sure and post your link to your build on this page so we can all link to it and follow you.

[daveward]

I will certainly post a link when I get the build log up and running!  By the way, it's nice to see a fellow Texan here!  I just recently moved up to Wisconsin for work, but Texas is still "home!"

[Bob Blarney]

I've thought of one thing that you could buy, but maybe you should build instead.  It's a combination bench hook and mitering board, for sawing and sanding pieces to fit.  I'll see if I can cobble up an example for you to look at.

As for Dremel moto-tools, I've never been a fan of them, but you might do better  One piece of advice --- when using them for routing:  Never cut deeper than 1/2 the diameter of the bit on a single pass. 

 

Hmm, did I see a post that mentioned digital vernier calipers?  They're essential, and not at all expensive at ~$15.  A digital protractor/bevel is useful too.

Edited April 2, 2016 by Bob Blarney

[texxn5]

Hi Dave, Yes, fellow Texan, good to hear. I'm on Lake Conroe north of Houston. First wife was from Milwaukee. Usually it's the folks from Wis coming here for work, not the other way around....lol. I liked Wis, hope all works good for you.

John

[Jaager]

As an aside and not necessarily a recommendation for a beginner, I have found the new Dremel 8050 drill to be useful - not heavy and no wire to drag.  I do not use it to mill cut, but as a drill, it is fine.  It does not come with the needed range of collets and I wish it would "remember" the last RPM setting.

 

Harbor Freight has a DC rotary drill for $10 - but unless you are drilling holes in a stick of room temp butter, I don't know what something with so little power would do.

 

For cutting out planks from thin stock, a 6 inch metal cutting guide helps avoid cutting what you don't want cut.  

A box of 100 high quality #11 blades. 

 

If you ever get into POF scratch building - a true flat surface is needed for frame assembly.  A piece of 1/4" bevel ground edge safety glass provides this.  Mine is 18" x 12".

[daveward]

Here's the link to my build log, as promised:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13171-lady-nelson-by-daveward-amativictory-models-164-scale-first-wooden-ship-build/

 

Thanks again for all the advice!

[ETNZ]

Not really off topic but also a beginner in this field. What would you all suggest as filler for covering the first planking blemishes and (yes) gaps prior to rubbing down for the second planking on my HMS Agamemnon model? Something soft to sand would be good like a drywall superfine finisher but is it too soft? Or a car body filler?

 

Look forward to hearing from you guys as I'm a little lost here.

 

Cheers

[tlevine]

I use Elmer's wood putty.  I would recommend a color a few shades darker than your first planking layer.  This helps the high and low spots stand out more prior to sanding.  Drywall joint compound or Spackle will not accept wood glue very well.  I have never tried Bondo.

[Nirvana]

Dave:

I am sure others might have comments about the various tools but I have a dislike of the light with the magnifier built into it.  It's great for the jeweler or somebody working with small stuff on the bench surface as the magnifier can be set and left in place.  With a ship model that ranges from small pieces where the magnifier works to the hull and/or rigging where it just gets in the way it's a tool that is useful only part of the time.  I tried this light/magnifier combo years ago and got rid of it in a matter of a few days - luckilly I was able to trade a buddy for a tool he didn't use so we were both happy.

 

I much prefer to use a head band type magnifier such as the Optivisor.  I used one with plastic lenses but after being able to try out the glass lens version at a trade show I bought the glass lens version and couldn't be happier.  These are available on ebay whereas the plastic lens versions are carried at the art stores such as Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc.    The link below is from a current ebay offer - I have both the #5 and the #10 lenses - using the #5 99% of the time as the drop down loupe is great for the extra magnification but the #10 is for when I am doing some extremely close work and you probably will never need the #10.  My advice would be to get the glass lens version rather than the plastic as there is no comparison - at least two club members went out and replaced their plastic lens versions with the glass after they tried mine on at a recent meeting.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Donegan-OptiVisor-Headband-Magnifier-You-choose-from-6-Lenses-MADE-IN-THE-USA-/251919955964?var=&hash=item3aa79977fc:m:mOgsmPUjOYwsz_xL9S50mrA

 

I see you are from WI.  Do you know about the 40th Anniversary model boat show/contest at the WI Maritime Museum in May?  There is info on their web site and here on MSW in the clubs, shows section towards the bottom of the mail MS page.

 

Take care,

Kurt

Kurt and Dave,

Many times when it comes using the optical visor of some kind we will experience a light issue.

This to illuminate the work we are doing using the visors.

For the mentioned visor there is something to consider and that is the led attachment.

I have another type of visor that I am not happy with so, I thank you for this lead.

[Nirvana]

I use Elmer's wood putty.  I would recommend a color a few shades darker than your first planking layer.  This helps the high and low spots stand out more prior to sanding.  Drywall joint compound or Spackle will not accept wood glue very well.  I have never tried Bondo.

 

Toni,

Somewhere in our forum there is a topic regarding "Bondo" with the recommendation to stay away from it.

Elmer's Wood putty do work.

[ETNZ]

Thanks Toni, being in the far flung reaches of New Zealand, I'm not sure what Elmer's wood filler is but I'll try and keep away from the others. I was trying to keep it generic so that I can work the various types of filler out. Google it is then! Cheers Guys

 

Eric

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Light with magnifier built in vs Optivisor

Exacto

 

These are 2 popular subjects which come back again again and again on this forum

 

The lens of the magnifier  is not made to work for long period, it is made to have a quick look on a part.  The focal length of these glasses is very narrow in comparison of the Optivisor.  It is very easy to move the head and loose the good focal length. In comparison the Optivisor  has a broader focal length. Easier to wear for long period without causing headache. Magnifying is a subject which is often treated alone but lighting should always be treated at the same time.

 

Exacto is the most popular knife among beginners, It is hard to say why? The only reason I could find is that the kit resellers also sells Exacto kit.

Exacto is a well know cutter and it is probably the preferred kind by modelers. I used exacto for many years and was happy with it. For certain tools we can learn to use better products and Exacto is one of these families.

 

The next step is to use a stainless steel scalpel with blade # 11. For mysterious reasons Exacto are preferred to scalpels. There is a big difference between these 2. It is like doing a comparison between a butter knife and a steak knife. Believe it or not the difference is as great as this, but peoples prefer  to use a butter knife. There is also another step in learning to use a better knife than the stainless steel handle of the scalpel. Working hours with a scalpel can cause some skin irritations caused by repetitive friction.So we look at the other handles on the market and we discover Swann Morton #5a acrylic handle and the problem is definitively solved.

Edited August 19, 2016 by Gaetan Bordeleau

[druxey]

The ring style of light has limited usefulness in model making, in my opinion. Many times it is more useful to have directional light that casts a shadow. This is particularly so when carving.

 

I agree with Gaetan's observations about the Optivisor.

[EJ_L]

I actually have and use both types of lighting and magnification. I have the magnifier and light on a swivel that is mounted to my table that I use for my primary illumination. I used the magnifier for years but I admit that it often got in my way and made working difficult. Recently I purchased the optivisor with the LED attachment and that has been a great decision. I still use the swivel light to light up my workspace but the visor allows me the freedom to work easier and provide extra lighting directly at the part I'm working on.

 

I have found that you can never have too much light or too many options for magnifying for small parts.

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

E.J. you are in the good direction, Lighting is a very large subject. 

 

By example color; incandescent is of a red color, halogen is yellow, fluorescent is blue and finally LED is white. You should consider this  when taking pictures. The easiest way is to correct the color rendition with the White Balance or you can do it manually  wit gel, different plastic color to get rid of color you do not want to see.

 

The smaller you will go and this is specially true when you need a high level of concentration in carving a small  figurehead. The stronger the light, the better you will see the details. At the opposite, insufficient lighting will not allow you to see all the details and the first effect will be to reduce greatly  the quality of your work.

 

Quality of lighting ican be measured  in foot candle or lux. This  is a good indication how much your lighting will facilitate your task. Many tables are available for this subject. High quality lamps are usable at greater distance 4 feet by example. In certain circumstances, you can use a medium quality light which would have by example a working distance of 2 feet and increase the foot candle by bringing the lamp much closer. The range of lighting is also very large, it can go from below 100 to 20,000 lux.

Edited August 21, 2016 by Gaetan Bordeleau

[allanyed]

Gaetan and anyone else that has experience with Swann Morton or other brands of scalpels,

 

Having used Xacto for so long I never even thought to look for something better.   So, butter knife versus steak knife.  How long do they last compared to Xacto blades?  Can they be sharpened?  

 

I am ready to give it a shot, but would like any advice/information anyone has on the Swann Morton blades. 

 

Many thanks

 

Allan

[Landlubber Mike]

I started using Swann Morton blades this summer - I like them a lot better than X-acto blades.  They seem much stronger structurally (blade doesn't flex) and seem to hold an edge better.  

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Allan, an advice would not be about #11 blades but  to get a scalpel with acrylic handle.

 

For100 blades  around $25, at 25 cents a blade I do not not bother to resharpen but you can try if you want.

 

The first you will remark when you try it is how much easier to do it with a scalpel in comparison with an exacto. 

[Jaxboat]

All good observations here. I would add that I often come upon bits and scraps from my home life that result in a lightbulb revelation that they would be good for some arcane operation that I am performing on my model du jour. It drives the admiral crazy but she allows for my eccentricities. I think it is part of the fun of the hobby.

I also follow the creed of Tom and Ray from the Tappet brothers on NPR which is never pass an opportunity that justifies acquiring a new tool.

Jaxboat

[Julie Mo]

First time builder about to start the 2nd planking, so take what I suggest accordingly.

 

Tools I used most for the frame assembly and 1st planking are

• Modeler's rasp
• Violin plane
• Push pins
• Titebond I & II
• X-Acto knife with lots of blades
• Needle rasps
• Steel ruler
• Magnifiers (strong cheaters or a dedicated headpiece)
• 5mm mechanical pencil
• Crescent Xcellite miniature cutters
• Spokeshave
• Shop-made fairing tools
• PSA sandpaper rolls from 80 to 240 grit
• Sheet sandpaper from 120 to 180 grit
• Spring clamps

Tools I bought  but never or rarely used:

• Amati action cutter
• Amati master cut
• Amati fast clamps
• Amati contour sander
• Amati electric plank bender

I may use some of the tools later on but most are of an inferior quality and they don't draw me to using them.

 

EDIT: Since a picture tells a thousand words:

On the far left, to the left of the sanding tools, are the tools I bought for making the model but have not used or hardly used.  The rest I've used mostly or more often.

• The rifflers came into play because I made a modification. 
• The spring clamps were used some but not as much as rubber bands and push pins.
• The grey-tipped spring clamps can crush the planking. 
• The larger black clamps popped off angled areas.
• The angle-tip brush I used for spreading glue on the planks. 

I will be looking into Ibex mini planes or maybe mini planes from Japan Woodworker.  I prefer using planes over rasps and rasps over sandpaper.  And I'll use card scrapers before sandpaper, if it's practical.

Edited August 25, 2016 by Julie Mo

[Chuck Seiler]

Random thoughts after having looked at the list.  Some are repeats, but important.

 

Clamps.  You can never have too many, but you can have the wrong ones.  Small pinchy ones, large clampy ones.  As you work on your model you will find ones that work well in various scenarios.  If you are working with woods like basswood, be careful about having too much spring.  It could damage the wood.  My experience is the best clamps are the ones at the ends of your arms...but I only have 2 of those.  Be careful not to superglue those to your model.

 

Sandpaper.  One secret to a good model is a good finish.  The secret to a good finish is a smooth faring and sanding.  In addition to the 60-100 and 120-200 range, get some fine paper...300, 400, 1000 for finishing the model, even if painting.  Check out Chuck Passaro's WINCHELSEA log regarding paint finishes.

 

Hairdryer.  Use the hairdryer to dry or form the plank while it is in the bending jig.  It speeds things up.

 

Scalpels.

 

...and when you start going with larger tools, Mini table saw and mini disk sander.  I find them invaluable.  Personally, I have the Byrnes Saw and the Byrnes Disk Sander (no affiliation, just happy customer).

 

And don't forget the clamps.

[Fidlock]

On the subject of blades, I have a couple of small Japanese knives. I don't know how widely available they are; I bought mine from Axminster Tools in England. They are a lot thicker than scalpel blades, but they take an incredibly fine edge. I use a fine water stone. They can be ground to any angle you like, but the edge is a little brittle if ground too acutely.

[GuntherMT]

 

Hairdryer.  Use the hairdryer to dry or form the plank while it is in the bending jig.  It speeds things up.

 

 

Unless you can find a hairdryer really cheap at a thrift store, consider a heat gun instead.  They can be had for less than 20 bucks on Amazon brand new, and they generate a higher temperature and get to temperature faster than a hair dryer, with less 'wind', which works great for our purposes.

 

I don't suggest trying to use a heat gun to dry your hair though, that might not work out so well.  

[marktiedens]

I got a heat gun at Harbor Freight for 15$

 

Mark

[tlevine]

Regarding 11 blades...  The brand of scalpel blades is not important.  For our purposes, any brand will work fine.  They cannot be resharpened. Personally, I prefer free blades that I put onto a "proper" scalpel handle.  I hate using the plastic handles in surgery and I hate using them for my models. They do not hold the blade as securely as a metal handle and they flex.  I use a long handle (#7) because I can see over my hand while I am using it. Image below borrowed from Havalon tools (I have never used them, it was simply a nice picture).

                                           

 

[philly777]

Hello:

 

OCCRE website mentions plegalistón for plank bending. Does anybody use this tool? I can't find any information on this. What would your favorite tool for plank bending. Thank you!