74-gun ship by Gaetan Bordeleau - 1:24

[rshousha]

Gaetan,

 

This is wonderful, thank you. What I find interesting is that real ships similar to this were probably built near where you are building this one! Looking at your build, I feel I am peering into the past, into what might have been the Levi shipyard in the 1800s. 

 

Regards, 

Rick

 

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi Rick,

just facing Levis, 1757,  René Nicolas Levasseur built some ships and few 74

one of them l' Orignal when put to water came down a ramp, a bit too fast, and opened and sank right there.

Edited February 9, 2022 by Gaetan Bordeleau

[Sailor1234567890]

Bump.

[rwiederrich]

Be careful with the *bump* button...that is how one gets 5 warning points.  It is frowned upon to simply bump a subject.

 

Rob

[vossiewulf]

8 minutes ago, rwiederrich said:

Be careful with the *bump* button...that is how one gets 5 warning points.  It is frowned upon to simply bump a subject.

 

Rob

I heard they keelhauled you.

[Sailor1234567890]

I didn't know. Thanks for the heads up.

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

The keel is now in 4  or 5 parts and extensive milling has been worked almost completely.

Both extremities are taper but only at the height of the frames to allow the external planking to fit flush with the keel.

The keel beams are not tapered they remain full.

I am beginning to fit the ''lock beam'' above the frames.

When this part will be completed, beams will be assembled.

The fitting of the beams on the keel is done at this stage because it is easier to manipulate just a part of the frame instead of the entire frame.

[Sailor1234567890]

Simply amazing.

[dvm27]

Is your mill CNC controlled or did you freehand mill that stem rabbet? Very impressive in either case.

[mtaylor]

We need a "Love It" button.  This is way beyond liking.

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi Greg,

 

Believe it or not it is an easy curve to go with the milling machine because it is an easy movement to decompose.

 

It is much more difficult when it is a perfect circle because you have to go X and Y axes at the same time.

When it is a softer  arc, you can go 1 axe at the time; you move forward and you move close to the edge, and on you go.

[donrobinson]

That is a good technique. what type of bit do you use?

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Don,

 

all kinds, HSS and up

there are no needs to use  high performance bits

it is only wood

[Tigersteve]

Looping myself in. Awesome stuff!

Steve

[Jack H]

Hello Gaetan

Good start and a excellent ship model.

It is  difficult to use the milling machine by hand to process this part of keel.

I haven't studied the structure of 74 gun's yet,perhaps such a structure would be more reasonable?

And whether it is the structure of the stern?

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi HJX,

Milling both ends of the keel is not the easiest job but it is possible.

Theoretically it is very easy, it is the planking arriving flush with the thickness of the keel.

Practically it is harder to trace where these lines are.

 

I do not always follow the plans at 100%. I like to play to the builder.  When the marine engineer gave the set of plans to the builder, I think that the builder often did some modifications for the ''better''.

I like to play this game. I do not claim these changes are good but to the best of my knowledge. As an example, the line between frames and keel at the stern follows the shape of the keel and is in round.

 

It is  already difficult to fix a frame on the keel at 90 degrees, why increase the difficulty by assembling the frame on the keel at an angle? Same idea at the other end.

For the rest, all the remaining frames assemble at 90 degrees. For the simplicity of the process, I choose to try to assemble all the frames at 90 degrees. I am actually in the process and I am not convinced that it is the best way to go. I have to pay attention not to cut too much wood to weaken the assembly. Advantage to assemble at angle could be that it helps to save more wood.

[rwiederrich]

Good practical observation Gaetan....  Translation from engineer to mechanic sometimes requires the mechanic to adapt his technique to satisfy the engineering goal.  In many cases the mechanic knows far better then the engineer..the tooling and *tricks of the trade* to accomplish the engineers vision.

 

We have that scenario play out every day here at work.

I truly love this build and will be watching and learing as you take us on this wonderful journey.

 

Rob

[PeteB]

Hi Gaetan

Enjoying your build log immensely and admire your beautiful work.

I have a question if you wouldn't mind – I note your stack of timber for the frames in your post # 93 which by my count looks to be 49 sheets including your two extras so you were very close to your guess.

I'm wondering if you could let some of us low time members know the sheet dimensions in your photo and what you think you will need to complete the hull and deck planking?

The reason I ask is that being in Australia most of the exotic woods like pear and boxwood will need to be sourced from overseas and I would like to do a one off order for enough stock to do either a 1/48 Naiad or L'Amarante.

I'm thinking half your quantities to be close enough for a first order. I have asked some of the other builders of these models but they seem to all had a stash at hand and didn't keep track of quantities unfortunately.

 

Cheers Pete

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi Pete,

 

I will be more than happy to answer your questions if I can.

I see 2 questions :  

 

Let us know the sheet dimensions in your photo?

what you think you will need to complete the hull and deck planking?

 

The sheet comes from a 2 feet wide roll and it is about a square sheet.

Estimating a quantity is difficult because many variables are present. If you buy  planks like 2 by 10 inches you will loose more than the half. If you buy planks of good size, there should a lot less to loose.

 

Guess is the best choice and add a security factor.

 

   

 

[PeteB]

Hi Gaetan

Thank you for such a quick reply - I'm sorry for my badly worded question - My reference to "sheet dimensions"  was to the size of the planks of wood you had stacked with the rib templates pasted to them prior to cut out in your post #93 ie Width x Depth x length. I thought if I knew the  dimensions of the 49 planks I could calculate the total and then halve them and get an estimate for a 1/48 scale.

Cheers Pete

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi Pete,

 

If I understand well the thickness of the plank is the thickness of a half frame, it was about 1/2 inch.

I guess you would like to know the size of all the bundle as in the picture.

 

It is not a good idea, for many reasons, and these 2 specifically:

 

stack of plank was for frames only and to add planking  and decks is difficult to calculate, especially the loss when cutting. Iy is not an exact science, guess is even a stronger way to be closer to what you need.

 

a 74 guns at 1/48 is roughly: 1 foot by 4 feet by 1,5 foot: 6 cubic feet

a 74 guns at 1/24 is roughly: 2 feet by 8 feet by 3 feet: and it is more than the 2X

 

Nevertheless, here is what I usually do to estimate the quantity: I buy a quantity of wood which is between 1 and 2 times the volume of the model: a 74 at 1/48 would be 6  cubic feet.

 

Every time I tried to calculate a wood quantity to buy, I had to go back later to buy some more.

So If I need 6 cubic feet, I would buy the double, this way I am sure not to arrive short and if there is too much, I will have some for the next one.

[PeteB]

Hi Gaetan

Thanks mate that is exactly what I was after a practical rule of thumb. Ill not use up any more of your precious time as I like all the other guys are waiting for your next progress post. Many thanks - Cheers Pete

[Frankberge]

What an sick build! Thats art. 

[cabrapente]

On 28/3/2017 at 10:26 PM, Gaetan Bordeleau said:

Tiene usted razón Mike: Proxxon MF70, un buen vicio de nuestra actividad, principalmente para la velocidad variable de hasta 20.000 rpm, una velocidad que una de metal no puede alcanzar a 3000 rpm

Para añadir un vicio decente, la columna tuvo que ser levantada. se añadieron 4 X 1 placas de aluminio pulgadas.

 

 

Hi Gaetan. As always an incredible job.
I have thought to increase the height of my mf70. But I doubt the best way to do it.
Do you have pictures of your invention? Thank you so much for everything.
Greetings cabrapente

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi Carabrente,

 

There are many ways to add a riser for the column. I choose to do the riser in 4 aluminium parts 1,000 inch thick.

the first is screwed to the column

the second and the third are in sandwiched between the first and forth

the forth one ties all the 4 blocks together

Last the base is screwed to the column

[cabrapente]

Ahh you used 4 solid pieces of aluminum, I understand.
thank you very much.
a greeting cabrapente

[michael mott]

Enjoying following along Gaetan and I especially like your pencil sketches.

 

Michael

[vossiewulf]

On 4/15/2017 at 4:42 AM, Gaetan Bordeleau said:

Nevertheless, here is what I usually do to estimate the quantity: I buy a quantity of wood which is between 1 and 2 times the volume of the model: a 74 at 1/48 would be 6  cubic feet.

 

Every time I tried to calculate a wood quantity to buy, I had to go back later to buy some more.

So If I need 6 cubic feet, I would buy the double, this way I am sure not to arrive short and if there is too much, I will have some for the next one.

I figured you would have just worked from M. Boudriot's careful calculations of the amounts of wood of various types required. At least I remember him having good data for wood quantities, it's not something I look up on a regular basis. Although you're working at furniture scale, the easy calculations we use doing that wouldn't apply to an object where um, maybe 20%-30% of its internal volume is more wood structure in zillions of separate pieces, so I like your method of working off the volume.

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

Hi Michael

 

Don't thank me, thank HJX, he has a very good visualisation of the assemblies.

 

 

Hi Vossiwulf,

 

There is an easy way to calculate  precisely the wood volume:  put the model in a water thank: the difference of volume will be  the answer.

Even with this volume, the answer would be incomplete, because to get there I would have started from 2 by 10 inches planks to go to 2 by 10 millimeters.

 

I would to add to this final volume  at least 60% for milling and cutting  for the wood preparation

 

 

[Gaetan Bordeleau]

-When preparing dry assemblies, if I need it to hold parts together, brass wire is used.

 

-I wanted a good file, but it was too large so I cut it.

 

-Lemineur and Boudriot drawings cannot be mix together because there are many variations in the drawings.