Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[svein erik]

wat a model , you make it look so easy😊 

 

svein erik

[Chuck]

Planking continues....it is important for me to go slow and take care to make this a neat planking job.  The planked hull is so visually important because of the size of this model that I am being very deliberate with each plank added.  I am planking with the hull upside down and although the strakes look very good when viewed upside down, after I finish each strake I will flip the hull over so I can view it right side up.  The run of the planks will look very different and this allows me the opportunity to make adjustments with the next strake if needed.  

 

I want a nice slope up of the planks at the stern.....but also at the lower bow.   So even though I am following my tick marks very closely....I am still making adjustments when I see a dip or bump in the run develop.

 

Remember that there are NO stealers at the stern.  There is only that one drop plank at the bow.  With these lower belts, you can run the planks off the stern post rabbet and then sand them back flush.  We will add the stern post when planking is completed.

 

Note the front of the garboard and its shape along with where it ends in relation to the scarf joint on the keel.  It is not too far forward and its not too far aft.  The end is about 1/16" forward of that joint on the keel.

 

 

At the stern, the strakes were sanded flush to the rabbet.....and note the gentle slope upward being created.   I only have six more strakes left on this side and you can see how I am following my lining out.   You can see the remaining tick marks and picture the run of the remaining planking.  At the stern on this lower belt, you must switch to wider 5/16" planks and shape them according to your tick marks.   The planks along the stern post do get wider as one would expect.

 

Let me know if you have any questions !!!!  Comments are welcomed.   No stealers at the stern which matches the contemporary model and will look very distracting.  There is absolutely no need to use them.

[Chuck]

Almost forgot to mention....at this stage you can remove the brackets on your baseboard.  They did their job.  You will need t make a work cradle.  To do this, use the templates for the bulkheads which have the curve and shape needed.  I will use three pairs just like the brackets.   They will be positioned where the brackets were.   You will see those on the next update.

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, beautiful work as always. I'm a bit behind you on my planking and that's a good thing. Your photos are very helpful, but as always make things seem easier than they really are. Now would be a great time for all those building the Winni to chime in on some of Chuck's expertise in planking techniques.

 

Mike

[Chuck]

Thanks.....

 

No questions means that planking is going to be a piece of cake for folks....LOL.   Seriously though guys...any questions or comments on how the planking up to this point?   You guys are awfully quiet on the subject.  Slow and steady is the best advice I can you guys.

 

Chuck

 

 

[Heronguy]

I'm sure about being able to go slow - steady is another issue 😉

 

Seriously though you're providing a detailed approach and I will certainly be trying to emulate your success - I'm sure questions will arise when I get that far!

 

 

[Rustyj]

Beautiful planking Chuck. I think as we all start our planking the questions will then start to come.

[Thistle17]

OK Chuck I have a question. In planking the bow of Cheerful I found that some of the planks fit into the rabbet were less than perfect. Most ended up sprung against the stem member but a few had drifted away from that tight condition. Here is how I was planking the bow:

1. slight bevel on the fore end of the plank on the underside of the plank

2. plank end tapered to the stem angle

2. heat bent around a canister cap with a radius slightly tighter than the bow radius.

3. theoretically the tighter radius when glued in forced the plank up tight against the stem

 

Should I have skipped step one?

Joe

Edited October 14, 2019 by Thistle17

[John Cheevers]

Excellent workmanship; and I'm happy you reminded all that it's not a race.

[Chuck]

No you have to bevel the end of the plank to match the stem rabbet angle .  That is correct.  Once against the rabbet and glued in ,the plank shouldnt move.   As you get closer to the keel that angle changes a lot and its the glue that keeps it tight against the stem neatly.   

 

Your bevel was probably wrong or you didnt secure it in place with enough glue.  You shouldnt have to force it as your plank should be pre bent so it fits properly from the start.  If it springs away then it should be pre shaped more.

 

hope that helps

[Stuntflyer]

Joe, here are my findings regarding the planks going into the stem. .

 

1. Bevel the outside edge that goes into the stem as well as the inside edge. I find that it's the best way to hide the inside edge of the stem, leaving a nice transition between the plank and stem.

2. I have not found it necessary to bend the plank along its length around a "canister cap" or other round shape. I Just edge bend the plank enough so that its edge conforms nicely to the plank below while at the same time hugging the bulkheads that it crosses.

 

Mike

[Thistle17]

Thank you both for your input. It appears I have over thought the method. I know I have said this before but I have to say it again. The information sharing of this forum is amazing!

Joe

[Hubac's Historian]

Hi Chuck - incredible job, so far!

 

My question is more a point of curiosity:

 

I noticed that as your garboard strake runs aft, close to the stern post, there’s a slightly stepped transition from one plank width to the last more narrow plank section that runs into the stern post.

 

This appears very deliberate, and I was wondering whether it had something to do with the rabbet.

[Chuck]

Yes the rabbet actually stops at that step.  This is a common feature and is actually shown on most original drafts.   The issue is that all ......and I mean all kit MFGs just ignore this feature.   

 

You can see it on the original draft where the dimension of the keel changes.  It might be tough to see in this photo but its there as well on the contemporary model.  Our model has the exact same number of strakes by the way.

 

 

Chuck

[Hubac's Historian]

That is such a cool little detail!  Thanks for sharing.

[Gregory]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Yes the rabbet actually stops at that step.

In your image of the contemporary model, do I see another step at the stern post, or is that an illusion?

Edited October 15, 2019 by Gregory

[Chuck]

Nope...just the one.

 

 

[Chuck]

A milestone today....I finished the planking on the port side.   That feels good!!!

 

I still have 9 strakes on the starboard to go.  I am happy with the results although as always you always tend to spot and focus on your mistakes.  I am very happy with how the cedar looks on such a large subject.  I will let you guys decide if you like it as a good wood to use on such projects.

 

I have only used wipe on poly...I decided not to use the gel stain after seeing how the finish looks.  The wales are a mess and will need to be cleaned up but I will wait until all of the planking is done.  I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel...BUT then there is the treenailing.....Ughh!!

 

Comments and questions , dont hesitate. 😊

 

[druxey]

A very neatly planked hull, Chuck. Well done.

[Tigersteve]

It’s looking excellent, Chuck. How is the learning curve with working with this wood? Specifically being able to avoid leaving dents since it’s very soft.

Steve

[Chuck]

Thanks

 

Its no different than working with basswood in my opinion.  Except it looks better and holds a sharp edge.  You just need to be careful.  If you are a rough builder then you will get some scuffs....but if you can lighten your touch then you wont have any problems.

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

I finished the Essex today so the Winnie is up next. I am waiting on my Hobbyzone building slip to arrive, sometime next week I hope.  I am worried about ripping all those planks and keeping all the demensions correct. I have a Micromark saw but the fence on that thing really sucks. I am thinking seriously of getting a Byrnes Saw but I have to ask the Admiral if I get it in the divorce. With the bulkheads, parts 1 and 2 of the model, carvings and Byrnes saw I would be in over a Grand. BUT she loves how the Essex looks, I showed her the Winnie’s bulkheads and she was truly impressed. 

[dvm27]

That's a beautifully planked hull, Chuck. I almost wonder if trunneling will detract from those lovely lines. Many of the Georgian style models at the academy are  not trunneled.

[Chuck]

Thanks Greg

 

i havent decided yet.  As always, i change my mind on that every day.  The contemporary model has no trunnels.  It looks beautiful and as you say, the same is true of many others.  I have some time to decide so I once i finish planking the other side, I will push forward with the stern and quarter gallery construction and see what is looks like after that is completed.

[CaptMorgan]

Wow -- that is just awesome stuff.  Beautiful work. 👍   You keep raising the bar....

[Stuntflyer]

I saw Chuck's Winni last week at the house and it looks even better than the photos. . .

 

Mike

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Congratulations for reaching this milestone. The planking looks perfect

Edited October 20, 2019 by AnobiumPunctatum

[shihawk]

Fantastic work as usual and i can,t wait to begin planking ,my favourite part .Although i have never done it single plank, so many instructions and pics will certainly be a big help .

[Chuck]

Thank you guys...I appreciate the kind words.  

[Jim Rogers]

Chuck can the tick marks be put on the sides of the bulkheads prior to assembly. Would be a lot easier on a flat horizontal surface.