Group Prototype HMS Winchelsea - FINISHED - 1764 - by Chuck (1/4" scale)

[Chuck]

The chesstrees are made just like the fenders.  No need to show it being glue together.  The middle layer is slightly wider to accommodate a sheave. The one thing I did do was round off the sheave before gluing up the three layers.  It is difficult to see the sheave in the photo but I will try and get a better picture.

 

The boarding ladder is pretty straight forward.  No laser cut parts here.  I made a scraper for the profile....then scraped a strip of boxwood.  Then I used some files and chisels to shape the sides.  There is no silver bullet here.  The best way to make these is to do it by hand like this.  I used a 3/32" x 5/64 strip of boxwood.

 

Here is how I made them on Cheerful and I made these the exact same way.  The profile is a little more fancier however.

 

 

Here is what they look like on the Winnie.  I opted to folow my reconstruction for placement.  It wasnt fun cutting away the molding neatly.  But I managed it.  You can do the same or opt for the way it was done on the contemporary model.  Its up to you.

 

I printed the frieze for the top step on tissue paper.  I used a glue stick to adhere it.  Then I carefully used a toothpick to push the frieze into the recesses etc.  It did require some paint touch up on the sides but I am very happy with the results.

 

Make sure you bevel the back side of each step so the top is flat.  Otherwise the top face of the steps would tilt one way or the other.  I still have the starboard side to do.

 

Here are some photos of the model with the exterior almost completed.  We only have the swivel mounts left after the ladders are done.  I added all the eyebolts shown on the plans which were made from 24 gauge wire.  Swivels will be next once I complete the ladder on the other side.  She's getting there!!!

 

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Wonderful work Chuck! This just looks awesome! 

[Chuck]

Thanks…it is so weird looking at the model now.  For several years it looked very different without the channels and fenders etc.  Those outboard details really change the whole look of the model.  
 

I cant imagine what its gonna look like after the headrails are all done.  Again probably Very different I imagine.

[glbarlow]

Is there a place or more definition of how to print, and match the pattern, (not to mention gluing wrinkle free) of the frieze on tissue paper? I don’t get how to run that through my printer. Will the properly sized boxwood strip for the ladders be supplied in the parts package? And maybe a nice photo of your scrapper pattern?

 

I figured I should ask my questions now even though I’m still planking the hull. By the time I get to this point most of you will be on Chuck’s next project. 

[Chuck]

Basically its the same way you printed the flags for Cheerful.  You tape or glue the edges of the tissue paper onto an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper.  Just around the edges.  Then stick it in your ink jet printer.  And print.  Its not difficult.  
 

the scraper profile can be taken from the plans.  Just look at the steps and you will see the shape.  Its why we have plans.  I will supply two 15” long strips of course.  Enough to make over 25 steps even though you only need 12.

 

i just spread a glue stick on the back of the tissue after cutting the frieze area I want.  Then its just a matter of being careful…lay it on the piece and use a blunted toothpick to lightly tap it down.  You will learn by doing!!!  It wont go right the first time…but after some

practice it will seem easy to you.

[scrubbyj427]

21 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Is there a place or more definition of how to print, and match the pattern, (not to mention gluing wrinkle free) of the frieze on tissue paper? I don’t get how to run that through my printer. Will the properly sized boxwood strip for the ladders be supplied in the parts package? And maybe a nice photo of your scrapper pattern?

 

I figured I should ask my questions now even though I’m still planking the hull. By the time I get to this point most of you will be on Chuck’s next project. 

Don’t worry Glenn... I’ll still probably be rigging guns by the time you get to this point.😁

[druxey]

Lovely work, Chuck. I'm waiting to see how you deal with all the headwork....

[Thistle17]

Prior to MSW few could comprehend the labor, love and progressive record of construction of this heirloom piece. I do hope there are plans to archive this incredible journey for future generations. It just speaks volumes to the work.

Joe

[Chuck]

Thank You very much!!!  

[scrubbyj427]

21 hours ago, Chuck said:

Thanks…it is so weird looking at the model now.  For several years it looked very different without the channels and fenders etc.  Those outboard details really change the whole look of the model.  
 

I cant imagine what its gonna look like after the headrails are all done.  Again probably Very different I imagine.

I think the head rails are going to be the icing on the cake at this point. Very excited to see this part develop. 

[Chuck]

Swivels...

 

The swivels are cast in resin as you can see above.  They come on a spru. You need to cut them free with a flush cutter and sand off the nubs.  These are not drilled for the trunnion.  You need to drill them thru with a #65 drill bit.  That is the perfect size.   You also need to use the same bit to drill a hole into the back end below the button.  This is for the handle.

 

The handle and yoke ....or bracket, is laser cut out of acrylic.   Just glue the handle into the hole in the back end you drilled.  Hopefully it was centered with the trunnion holes and below the button.  

 

The bracket is easily added.  Slide the muzzle end into the space of the bracket until its lined up with the trunnion holes.  Then gently pull the bracket down so the fork start spreading apart.  It will flex and snap right into the trunnion holes you drilled....that is if you used a #65 bit.

 

The small disc you see in the photo is for the tops of the swivel mount.   You will add the disc on top before inserting the bracket into a hole you drilled in the wooden mount.  These are quite tiny and hard to photograph....here are the swivels assembled and weathered.  I sprayed them with matt fixative or dull coat first and then applied some weathering powder.

 

I didnt make the swivel mounts for the side of the hull yet.   But there are also two swivels up front on the bollard timbers.

 

I drilled the #65 hole in the top of the timberheads.  Then I added the acrylic disc...no glue needed.  Just position it and slide the swivel into the hole locking the disc in place.

 

These will be sold in packages of six resin swivel guns along with the laser cut parts for the bracket and handle and discs. 

 

Now to make those swivel mounts for the remaining ten.

[scrubbyj427]

Those look great Chuck, but I’m assuming they won’t be available in turned brass?

[Chuck]

They are available in brass but you wont be able to drill the hole in the arse end to easily for the handle.  
 

The brass ones are in my store and are available as just the barrels with trunnion pin.  They are 13/16” long.  You would have to make your own bracket and figure something else out for the handle though.  
 

the resin is easy to drill.  The resin version is actually cast from the brass barrel which was used as the master.  They are identical in shape and size.

[scrubbyj427]

I’ll try the resin ones then, I’m just worried I won’t be able to match the finish of my other guns. But I’m also a long ways off from these little swivels. 

[dvm27]

Nice job on those swivel mounts Chuck! I read somewhere (can't find the source) that ships only armed one side with swivels. They were easily transferred to the other side as needed.

[Chuck]

Thats interesting but I am following a few other contemporary models.  They have them all set out.  Amazon in particular is the model I am using for swivel gun replication.  She had twelve according to records so why not just show them all.  I have them all made anyway.

[giampieroricci]

Wonderful model, Chuck!

[Chuck]

Thank You very much!! 😄

[Chuck]

More dealers choice....swivel stocks

 

On the contemporary model there are two swivel stocks on each side of the fcastle.   On the original draft there is only one.  Only the stock forward of the shrouds is shown.   Its up to you really.  

 

I am going to omit this swivel stock aft of the shrouds because it is not shown on the original draft.   I also think it hurts the graceful flow of the rail into the waist.  But its up to you.   

 

In addition,  the contemporary model does not show the aft-most swivel stock along the qdeck.   But it is shown on the draft making it 3 per side.   

 

I am just pointing out some discrepancies in case any of you notice it.   It would be fine to show all ten swivel stocks that I show on our model plans and the two on the bollard timberheads.  But if you agree that the second pair on the fcastle would be visually problematic,  you can omit them too.

 

And also,  the stocks on Amazon are completely round.  Those on the Winnie Contemporary model are six sided.  BUT...for me it is much easier to take a 5/32" x 5/32" strip and make it 8 sided by sanding the corners.  I follow the 7-10-7 formula for doing so.  Although its easy enough if you are careful to just free hand it.

 

Omitting that one pair of stocks on the fcastle also follows the arrangement shown on the Amazon and some other contemporary models.  Below.  As I have mentioned, the Amazon is one of my inspiration examples while working on the project.  I believe you can see the similarities between it and our project.

 

 

 

[Gregory]

Will the resin swivel guns be available in the store anytime soon?

[Chuck]

Not for about a week or so maybe longer.  
 

waiting on an order of more acrylic sheets.  
 

 

[bdgiantman2]

Is there a reason that the swivel guns have a more rustic/aged look compared to the main long guns?  I can only assume the crack gun crew you have was polishing the main battery and haven't gotten to the swivel guns yet with the polish and grease.

[Chuck]

They are basically the same or at least they will be on my model.  The weathering powder wears off and dust gets on them and it all evens out.

[Chuck]

The swivel stocks are made from a 5/32" x 532" strip.  Their lengths are all different and should be taken from the plans.  They will be sanded or files on all for corners to make them 8 sided.  BUT....not where they sit against the hull.  Here you leave that prtion flat on the entire side.  You can see one pair of swivel stocks below.  One is dressed and the other undressed.  Not the flat side.  Measure on you model the length of the flat portion to fit against the hull.  From the top of the shear down.  The bottom was rounded off as well.

 

The hole in the top was made with a #65 bit for the swivel guns and a thin band of black tape wrapped around the very top.  You have to do a lot of measuring from your model to determine the end of the black and the frieze allowing for a natural area to match where the molding is.  Just take your time measuring and marking.  The friezes were applied as usual after printing them on tissue paper.   They were applied with a glue stick and I did my best to match the pattern but it isnt that critical.

 

Some photos showing the stocks installed.   I notched away the molding and overhang of the shear to accommodate them.  I also did my best to make sure they were vertical but also matching the angles of the rails.  They will follow the shape of the hull as well and lean a bit to match the curvature of the hull.

 

The aft-most swivel stock also angles against the forward side of the transom.  This makes it look a bit odd depending on the angle but the original drat shows it this way rather than vertical like the other stocks.

 

 

[KenW]

A truly great looking model.

I don't think the figure looks at all like you.

Cheers.

[WalrusGuy]

Awesome model and photos! What's left to complete the model? 

[Chuck]

1 hour ago, KenW said:

 

I don't think the figure looks at all like yo

LOL…its another figure that Larry painted for me a while ago.  I just happened to place it on the model and it fit perfectly.  It is marvelously painted.  I will leave it for the show next weekend but ask Larry to maybe paint me a more appropriate one for the model.

 

59 minutes ago, WalrusGuy said:

What's left to complete the model? 

I have the waist details next which will complete chapter 11.  Then its time to add the lantern and headrails to finish up the hull.  Thats it!!

[Gahm]

This is an amazing model! It shows what you can do with outstanding craftsmanship, artistic talent, and a good sense for innovation!

 

Thomas

[Chuck]

Thank you very much for the kind words

[Trussben]

Beautiful Chuck.