Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale

[Kurt Johnson]

That tape brace is brilliant! 

 

Kurt

[Chuck]

I thought you would like Kurt.....remember to add it on your barge frames.   

[Chuck]

By the way....this is a big boat....16" longish.  Is it too big?   Should it be 3/8" scale instead.  I cant do both.   But this is the time to decide.  If I get any further it will be too late and require too much redrafting.

 

Maybe not....I will see what the fellas say when they see it in person Tuesday night at my club meeting.  And getting back to the discussion about me having way too much on my plate to do this project.  Let me fill you in on the timeline so far.  My club met last month in my shop and we discussed a group project.  It was decided that the long boat was the best subject.   I was super busy working on making parts to restock.  But a week ago I started drafting this from the new contemporary draft I had on file.   Over the last week I spent only about 12 -15 hours drafting this model electronically and laser cutting the parts.   I also built several prototype attempts as I tweaked those designs and also arrived finally at the image you see in my last post.  Actually I am a little further along actually.   But all included the project has only taken me about 12-15 hours thus far with most of that time being at my computer drafting.  Maybe I have about 2-3 hours of actual build time.   Thats it.  This will be a very quick build....hopefully, if nothing comes up to ruin it.

[Tigersteve]

The new design looks great, Chuck. I say leave scale as is. Feeling very compelled to contradict what I said and build one of these when it’s available. 

Steve

[Chuck]

I have been talking with the other guys and they want to keep it at this scale also....So I will.   Since the Barge is 1/2" scale it just makes more sense.   My new wood guy said it wont be a problem to cut and thickness the cedar on wider sheets either which I was worried about.  I need cedar sheets that are 5 1/2" wide to fit these these frames on.  So I am good to go.

[alde]

Seeing the frames in relation to the exacto knife really brings home the size of the boat. I can’t wait to give it a go with a group build. It will make for a great learning experience with several different levels of modeler skill. 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

1/48 is perfect. The frames are so much more stable und can be build with the right scale.

The detailed build log will be a great help later.

 

EDIT: ANother reason for me is, that I build my other models also in the scale

Edited June 23, 2018 by AnobiumPunctatum

[Thistle17]

Nice design, nice assembly support, nice product. Simply put VERY NICE. This should be a fun build and not a career in its making!

 

One question; when it is ready to release do you plan on releasing to all those who have signed on for the group build all together or are they going to be "put in your store window" and it will be a first come first served" basis? Just wondering given the Barge experience.

Joe

[Chuck]

Joe I will make probably six kits at a time because that is all I can really make with my capacity.   I wont place them in my storefront until after everyone who has signed up for the group has one.  My guess is around 15 or 20 people.  But remember....no line cutting.  If you sign up for the group you must start a build log.  No short-cutting to get an early kit.  As soon as most have a kit I will place it in my store for anyone to buy and enjoy.

 

Unfortunately a 1/4" scale version is not going to happen.   Just the 1/2" scale version.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Sorry, that was a calculation fault of mine. I thought on the Model Shipways kit as I wrote my last thread.

1/24 is also a really nice choice. It's the same scale as your pinnace models.

[Chuck]

I have been speaking to Peter Rindlisbacher who is an artist and model maker.  He is the builder and owner of the longboat replica in the photos I posted.  He has already given me some great insight about the rig.  He actually sails this thing and is very knowledgeable.  I believe he is also going to be the dinner speaker this year at the conference.  I have invited him to join our little group project as well.

 

Here are some additional photos of his longboat replica.

 

 

 

[Thistle17]

Thanks Chuck I will behave myself and do my best to do this project justice.

Joe

[Chuck Seiler]

Chuck,

 

    When do you anticipate these being available for the group build?  Where do I signup?

[Jim Rogers]

This is going to be fun. The amount of detail you can get in a model this size is going to be amazing. Looking forward to my first group build. Do we get hats? 😂😇🤣

[mtaylor]

2 hours ago, Jim Rogers said:

Do we get hats? 😂😇🤣

Hold out for a beer mug or coffee cup.  

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Really wonderful and impressive pictures. I am already looking forward to the project

[Chuck]

I am shooting for September guys....

[Erebus and Terror]

Wow excellent! I’m looking forward to seeing how you create the pre-spiled planks! I’ve seen them in some Chinese and Russian kits and I can’t wait to see the method used to create them.  

 

You are a kit/part building machine, Chuck. And with all your other work and leadership for the hobby too numerous to list...you are an inspiration, indeed! 

Edited June 24, 2018 by Erebus and Terror

[Chuck]

Thanks

 

The Queen Anne Barge kit uses pre spiled planks as well.  Its not a big deal to make them.  I basically spile and create the shape for the plank like I normally do on a scratch project.  Once I am satisfied that my plank fits on my prototype I trace it and make a laser cut version.  This laser cut version is then tested on the model.  I will tweak it as needed and when I get it perfect, I glue it into position and move on to the next one.

 

It takes a while but the results are very good.  

[Rustyj]

Hi Chuck.

 

Very nice start! The additions of the bracing blocks is a really great idea.

Anything to help with the alignment and stabilizing the assembly during fairing is a plus.

This is going to be a fun group build and I'm looking forward to it!

[thibaultron]

Chuck, will "Upgrade" kits be available for those of us on a limited income. Ie. base kit, full planking upgrade, and rigging upgrade?

[Tigerdvr]

I'm in Chuck, full plank and sails. The Admiral insisted so what choice do I have?

Have a great day.

Cheers, Harley

[Chuck]

I think I might have mentioned this somewhere but I will repeat here.

 

There will be a starter package containing keel parts, frame parts and build board along with the plans.  You scratch everything else.  Estimate $100

 

Then there will be a full kit version no rigging materials...just the hull.  Estimate $180ish but this could be way off because I m not close to knowing yet

 

Lastly...a separate rigging/sail package with everything to add masts/sails to your model. Containing mast material, rope, blocks, whatever else including sail material. Estimate $45ish

 

Thats it.  Otherwise it gets to crazy.  This should make it economically feasible for most folks who may only want the starter package and scratch everything else.  Otherwise they can buy one of the other options.  But I cant itemize it out into smaller packages because that would be insane to keep track of.

 

Starter packages will only be available for those taking part in the MSW group project and bought through this site.  Once I add it to my store....there will only be the full hull kit and rigging packages available.   

 

 

[Chuck]

Some close up images of rigging details from the  replica under sail......

 

[Chuck Seiler]

No hats?

[Erebus and Terror]

Thanks for the explanation Chuck. It's a great idea for a kit; planking is so daunting and mysterious for newcomers. Can't wait to watch this develop.  

[michael mott]

Chuck what a great project. this kit design is really tempting! I know that I would end up worrying too much about too many unfinished projects so I shall have to content myself by watching your group put them together. Perhaps in the future.

 

Michael

[James H]

Looks like another one I must add to the collection. 

[Chuck]

Thanks guys...and Michael its just good to have you along for the ride.  I would love to see one of your past builds made into a group project by the way.  Maybe we can talk about it at some point and put something together.

 

Anyway,  progress continues.

 

One piece frames are pretty straight forward.  For the two piece frames, there is an etched line for reference on the top half that contains the top timbers.  The floor is resting on top of it in the photo below.  Note how thin the kerf is on the laser cutting.  You can hardly see a difference between the lightly etched line.  Compare it too the MS kit version....which is actually smaller so the kerf is just a sloppy mess.  That is just a comparison of proper laser cutting vs. not so proper laser cutting.

 

 

These two pieces must be assembled for 15 of the 20 frames.  This can be done by just placing a straight edge or ruler on that line as shown below.

 

Then apply some TitebondII to the top timbers only.  Be careful not to get much glue near the cut lines that separate the center.  Once dry it will make removing the center more difficult later.  But dont skimp on the glue either.  Use enough to ensure a good bond with the floor piece.  Especially on the tips of the floor and top timbers.  Add the floor and align with the straight edge along the etched reference.  Once dry you are all done and can assemble the other two-piece frames. Easy peasy!!!

 

I am moving along pretty good here and only have the last five frames to laser cut and assemble then its time to fair the hull.  I will make a recommendation.  Dont forget to use the tape to help reinforce the center before you start fairing.  Also, only work on one frame at a time so you dont mix up the parts from one frame to another.  Once you complete each frame, test its fit in the build board.  I have made the slots for the two tabs on each frame very tight on purpose.  More than likely you will need to sand the two tabs thinner for a good "press fit"   This is important because you dont want the frames too loose so they fall out on their own.  You dont want them too snug so they are difficult to remove.  We will be removing the jig after the planking is completed.  So the fit should be just right....if you cant easily remove the frame then its too tight.

 

I would rather sand the two tabs thinner than try to make the slots wider.  This for me is easier and takes just a few seconds.  If you sand too much and the frame becomes too loose, that is no problem.  Just add some blue painters tape to the two tabs to thicken them up so they fit really good.  You can see that I had to do that with one frame so far.

 

In addition...test the bottom of the frames for a similar fit in the notches of the keel.  I do this as soon as I finish each frame.  Here is what the model looks like today.  Hopefully the frames will all be completed over the next few days.  Then I will glue the keel into position permanently. I will describe the process when that time arrives.  But if you want a sneak peak and plan on joining this group once it starts.  I would also recommend that you read the monograph on building the barge.  It describes the process as well.  Just in case you cant wait.  Here is a link...

 

https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/royal-barge-kit.php

 

 

 

.

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Looks really nice, Chuck. Will you add some treenails? I think that this is a nice detail, especially at the model with visible frames