HMS Winchelsea by Beckmann 1/48

[Beckmann]

I will make an attempt to clean it! You are right, it really is a miracle, how they did this in earlier times with primitive tools and no technical help. 

[Gregory]

1 hour ago, Beckmann said:

....how they did this in earlier times with primitive tools and no technical help. 

Because it was a full time job, and we don't see all the throw aways before they got it right......

[Beckmann]

The laser didn't cut all the way through the material, so it is a delicate thing to get them out without breaking them. 

Obviously I again was not patiently enough

Edited November 28, 2019 by Beckmann

[Beckmann]

First one is cleaned from char

[Beckmann]

Edited November 28, 2019 by Beckmann

[Captain Poison]

Looks great,good idea!

[Beckmann]

The complete set of ivory-windowframes is now clean. But before installing them on the model there is still a lot of planking to do.

Edited December 4, 2019 by Beckmann

[Beckmann]

Hi everybody,

I hope you enjoy some spare time at your christmas-vacation. I did some planking.

This one was a really tricky one.

 

Matthias

[Chuck]

That looks very good.  You are making some quick progress.  Take your time when you start lining off the hull below the wales however.  That will really determine how difficult the planking will be....if you line off the hull well enough it should go much easier.

[Beckmann]

The next thing to do are the black whales. I dyed the strips in advance, so I don't have  to paint them. We will see, if that was a good idea or not. The disadvantage is, that you have to glue them very careful into position, because you can not sand the surface later. And no glue on top of the surface. And if you moisten the strips fot bending, you will dissolve the mordant.

But I prefer the look.

 

[Beckmann]

First I thought about using ebony, I have got a peace of  ebony, but that stuff is like iron. Very heavy and I suppose impossible to saw and bend.

[Rustyj]

Your build is looking very nice! Well done.

 

I've used ebony in the past and yes it is very hard. Whatever blades you use to cut it will be dulled and only good

for cutting ebony after that. The wood is very hard and bending is difficult. The dust is toxic and it sticks to unsealed

wood and everything else a lot like toner dust. I wore a mask and latex gloves when working with it. It does produce a

nice look when done but it wasn't worth the risks and trouble so I don't use it anymore.  

[DocBlake]

So you say you want to work with wood?  All risk is relative!  This list will turn your hair white!

 

https://www.mountainwoodworker.com/articles/toxic_woods.pdf

[JpR62]

Very nice work.

Russian master replace ebony with black hornbeam. This wood species seems easier to work.

Take a look at the wonderful build log on a 'Friech Boeir Yacht' from Kortes

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19572-friech-boeir-yacht-sperwer-by-kortes-130-scale-finished/?tab=comments#comment-597413

[Matt D]

20 minutes ago, DocBlake said:

So you say you want to work with wood?  All risk is relative!  This list will turn your hair white!

 

https://www.mountainwoodworker.com/articles/toxic_woods.pdf

I wonder where I can find some sneezewood for my next project!

[Jim Rogers]

I used ebony stain.

[Beckmann]

That is, what I did. 

The cedar is so absorbent, that the stain went almost through the entire strip. And You can still enjoy the flexibility of this wood.

[Beckmann]

As usual, things didn't quite work as I thought.

I had to do some sanding and following that, some more dying. I would not recommend doing this my way. You have to be extremely careful with the rest of the model. The advantage is, that the planking structure remains very visible. Painting it might cover the seams and joints, so you have one black belt without any visible planks.

In the end it is a matter of taste.

The best thing to do is propably using the black hornbeam, wich JpR62 mentioned above.

This is the finished starboard side of the model.

Matthias

 

 

 

[jimvanlan99]

It may have been a pain getting there, but I would say you have one beautiful model there.

[Beckmann]

Thank you Jim. Using mordant always has the potential to completely ruin, what you did so far. Once it is in the wood, you never get it out again. So I am glad, all went well. I wiped some varnish on the surrounding planks, that kept them clean.

Matthias

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Best way in my opinion is to just paint it black with acrylic paint.  Very little danger of ruining the piece that way.

 

You will have so much more to paint black that I would seriously not recommend that at the way to do the other parts.

 

But fortunately you made a great save and it looks good.   

[ChrisLBren]

Beautiful result ! I agree with Chuck - having worked with Ebony and Fiebings dye (on my Confederacy which is fading) on wales - I’m just going to paint them 

 

 

[Beckmann]

Yesterday the carvings of Jack arrived. They are extraordinary. 

Here is the figurehead.

[Chuck]

Looks fantastic.  Remember that the fairing strip along the waist is temporary.  You will need ti check your height when it comes time for the molding at the shear.  Examine where the molding falls in comparison to the gunports on the plan.  Then adjust accordingly.  You may have to remove it entirely or just keep it and sand it down a wee bit. 

[empathry]

Halo Beckmann ; I have been very interested in your brilliant idea for the ivory laser cutting.  I myself have got some ivory (and also the ebony) from the keys of an ancient piano.  If you need some more, it will be with pleasure ! ... and what about Laufbohle in ebony ?  Would it be a possible idea ?  MFG, Empathry

[Beckmann]

Hi Empathry, thank you for your kind comment.  ebony is too unflexibel and difficult to bend. What do you mean with "Laufbohle"?

 

Here is my first attempt with these difficult planks below the wales. It is actually my third attempt, I broke all the others. If I keep going like this, I will soon run out of planks.

I have a question concerning the joints. They jump every second bulkhead from one row of planks to another. And after 4 rows, it goes back to the first bulkhead. Is that right? That produces a regular pattern of joints. And it means, that one plank goes over 8 bulkheads.

[Chuck]

That is correct.  That last photo looks pretty good.   You have some finish sanding and beveling to eliminate all the tiny gaps but that looks very good.

[Beckmann]

Unfortunately, I have to rip of the 4 rear planks below the wales, because I die not consider that  They go over 9 bulkheads.

[Chuck]

That may differ.....the important thing to remember is to skip every other bulkhead for the butt joints.   As long as you do that from strake to strake you will be fine....even if you have one area that may have slightly longer planks.  Its fine.   

[James H]

This is just outstanding. Your planking is quality. What a great job 🤗