prototype build HMS Sphinx 1775 by James H - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[Kevin]

9 minutes ago, James H said:

...I hope you lot are enjoying yourselves while I'm making masts in my sweat-box of a man cave!

of course we are, and so are you

 

[Oboship]

I'm very curious and am looking forward to see Sphinx fully rigged! Hope that sweat-box of yours isn't too hot 🙂.

Uwe

[Oboship]

Just now, Oboship said:

I'm very curious and am looking forward to see Sphinx fully rigged! Hope that sweat-box of yours isn't too hot 🙂.

Uwe

Cheers!

[James H]

4 minutes ago, Oboship said:

I'm very curious and am looking forward to see Sphinx fully rigged! Hope that sweat-box of yours isn't too hot 🙂.

Uwe

 

It's around 28 degrees at moment. It has gone to mid 30s before now and with the old style, hot photography lamps adding to my misery. I really do need to change to LED and soon.

 

I currently have bowsprit and mizzen mast built. The main mast is 3/4 built and the foremast about 1/3 done. All masts will then need their blocks and ironwork/lashings added, then painted where needed. My next proper update will show all masts in place with yards pinned in position. 

 

[Oboship]

But to ease your misery you're allowed a beer, surely?

[James H]

4 minutes ago, Oboship said:

But to ease your misery you're allowed a beer, surely?

 

There will be plenty of that! 🤪

[Oboship]

😉👍🍻

[Old Collingwood]

51 minutes ago, James H said:

 

There will be plenty of that! 🤪

Sailors Prerogative  😁

 

OC.

[Jasseji]

11 hours ago, chris watton said:

I think it is very important to make the kits as easy as they can be. It really doesn't matter what experience some have, or have not got. It is a kit, so it should include as many pre-made parts as possible to give everyone a fighting chance.

 

There is always much room for improvement, depending on each modellers experience and preferences, and those that can, will still make their own stamp of the kits. At the same time, I am hoping that those who perhaps may have been a little scared off by other kits in the past will feel confident enough to tackle such subjects. For most, the kit is complete, but for a few, it is a blank canvas and only the start of what they plan to do to it. For example, you don't have to use the pre cut and etched lower side parts, as I will include enough pear strip to plank from bottom edge of the blue painted sides down, the choice is yours. 

 

Regarding the plastics, or resin, which is what I use, after having to use white metal for the best part of two decades, I would choose the resin every time - easier to use, bend, file, better definition and next to zero shrinkage - with zero shrinkage for 3-d printed parts like the cannon barrels, figurehead, boat beam brackets and lanterns. If the material suits the end result, I will use it. But never again white metal...

 

i find that approach from Chris as a Designer very encouraging and a good approach to maybe get more people into the Hobby. Everyone can attempt their own scratch additions if they feel like it, but to have the possibility to go back to the original Kit parts if your scratch attempt fails might create a feeling of not having failed completely and be an encouragement.

I myself have got my Hands for now on the Lady Nelson (Sorry Chris, i wont be getting the Alert for now :D) as i heard it's also quite Beginner friendly (i failed at other sets before, well for reasons). 

I wait for the Sphinx, this will be a lovely and easy Set from the Looks of it.

 

PS: @chris watton do you happen have an Order status on your Page somewhere ? i ordered one of your Ship's Boats as a warm-up

[James H]

I'm still beavering away with masts and stuff, but the lanterns have arrived, and they are now fitted.

These are 3D-printed ones with the correct rake and acetate internal glazing. Very nice!

 

[Glenn-UK]

They look very nice

[chris watton]

I do like these lanterns, it wasn't until James took some real close ups that I realised the detail was there, door hinges, handle, and open vents around the upper canopy cylinder.. 

[AndyNic]

13 hours ago, chris watton said:

I do like these lanterns, it wasn't until James took some real close ups that I realised the detail was there, door hinges, handle, and open vents around the upper canopy cylinder.. 

 

[AndyNic]

Beautiful… as is the manicure …. Surely, not a modeler ? Where are the glue deposits?

[James H]

Here's my last update before the final completion images.

 

The masts are pretty straightforward. Cartridge paper is used for the iron banding, the battens then fitted over these. When complete, the masts are varnished and then sections painted black before then fitting out with rigging blocks etc. For this model, I've used the optional pear blocks (except for deadeyes as the pear weren't in stock when I started). 

 

 

 

All yards are then built, including mizzen gaff, ensign pole etc. These will be fitted out as soon as the paint is dry.

 

 

Whilst waiting for paint drying, I fitted the bowsprit and rigged the shrouds and stays after first adding the gammoning. Boomkins are also rigged.

 

 

And this is the result so far.

 

 

Catch you when she's finished...

[Glenn-UK]

Looking good. I have completed my current build and I'm eagerly waiting to start The Sphinx, when the kit is released.

[chris watton]

I have been told that the photo etched sheets will be ready to pick up from Italy at the end of next week, so will receive the week after. If these are all good, I will think about changing the Sphinx to pre-order, as all will be with me. I even have the boxes, double walled, so very strong, and have just ordered the shipping sleeves.

 

Manual is up to date, almost complete, but has a lot more pages than I initially thought, with close on 1000 pictures..

[Malcolm Greig]

Wow, a 1000 photo's.  Fantastic. Estimated average time for this build (an hour per photo perhaps???). A lot of fun to be had with this model. 

 

Malcolm

[chris watton]

I would say between 400-800 hours.

 

I do mention at the start of the manual the amount of parts, and not to be put off by this, it's just that the parts you usually have to make up yourself from stock timber are already pre cut. In some cases, a little bevelling or rounding off of the edges is required to finish the parts, but that's it.

 

You have multiple sizes of yard cleats and mast and sling cleats (items you usually make up from wood strip), even the mast head battens are pre cut, as are the mast fids.

 

So, a lot of parts and a lot of laser cut wood sheets, but this does not or should not translate into meaning more complicated than any standard kit. Quite the contrary, I am hoping...

 

I did tell Jim that I do not mind how big the manual is or how many photos  we use, the more info for the modeller the better, I believe.

 

And what a job Jim is doing, he really is doing the kit justice.

[Mike_H]

Lovely to behold, James.  As Chris says, you really are doing the magnificent kit justice. (Aright, he didn't say magnificent, I did!)

[Glenn-UK]

On 7/18/2021 at 2:46 PM, chris watton said:

I have been told that the photo etched sheets will be ready to pick up from Italy at the end of next week, so will receive the week after. If these are all good, I will think about changing the Sphinx to pre-order, as all will be with me. I even have the boxes, double walled, so very strong, and have just ordered the shipping sleeves.

 

Manual is up to date, almost complete, but has a lot more pages than I initially thought, with close on 1000 pictures..

Fingers crossed that the delivery of the PE parts will arrive this week and that they all look good so the kit is ready for pre release very soon.

[chris watton]

38 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

Fingers crossed that the delivery of the PE parts will arrive this week and that they all look good so the kit is ready for pre release very soon.

They did, I now have everything here, all looks very good. Made some changes to PE sheets, a few alterations and also adding part numbers to each part on the sheet. All look very fine.

[Jasseji]

Pre-Ordered (Please no Royal Mail anymore  - Joke)

[Surgeonstone]

Chris, I eagerly await my Kit, pre ordered last week. You mention two things that I am curious about. 1) How many parts does this kit have. 2) I agree that sails always seem terribly out of scale and ruinous to such a beautifully scaled model as this. Have you ever found a material that is good for a model this scale? In the past I have used Japanese rice paper cut to sized, dyed to proper color, marked with pencil for material panel effect and moistened for furling. With this I was quite content with the results. Any similar experiences?

[Surgeonstone]

[chris watton]

7 minutes ago, Surgeonstone said:

Chris, I eagerly await my Kit, pre ordered last week. You mention two things that I am curious about. 1) How many parts does this kit have. 2) I agree that sails always seem terribly out of scale and ruinous to such a beautifully scaled model as this. Have you ever found a material that is good for a model this scale? In the past I have used Japanese rice paper cut to sized, dyed to proper color, marked with pencil for material panel effect and moistened for furling. With this I was quite content with the results. Any similar experiences?

Thank you

 

Regarding parts, I am not sure, never counted them all up. You can however download the manual on the Sphinx page on my site:

 

HMS Sphinx – 1775 – VANGUARD MODELS

 

The full parts list is near the end.

 

As for sails, I honestly haven't really given them much thought, as I prefer the models 'Dockyard Style', with just masts, yards and rigging. I include sail options for smaller kits, as I can appreciate many prefer to have the choice, and they seem to suit smaller craft.

[mtaylor]

I have a question on the MDF for this model.  I have some concerns over fumes and also fragility being as there's a bunch of grades of MDF where some just crumbles by looking at it.   Is there a coating that can be put on it to seal and perhaps strengthen it?  James doesn't mention it so maybe I'm just being a bit paranoid or nuts?

[James H]

22 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

I have a question on the MDF for this model.  I have some concerns over fumes and also fragility being as there's a bunch of grades of MDF where some just crumbles by looking at it.   Is there a coating that can be put on it to seal and perhaps strengthen it?  James doesn't mention it so maybe I'm just being a bit paranoid or nuts?

Whether I'm sanding wood or MDF, I wear a mask. Both aren't good for you in the slightest.

 

I've never experienced any problems in strength when it comes to sanding. Of course, if a piece looks more fragile, then just be cautious. The stuff used is high grade as I'm sure @chris watton will attest to. You certainly don't need to coat it in anything to strengthen it, hence no reason to mention it. 

 

Paranoid? 😆 Possibly!

[mtaylor]

Thanks James.   Mask is mandatory and I have a good one.  I'll go get a glass of wine and chill out.  

[Neill]

17 hours ago, James H said:

Whether I'm sanding wood or MDF, I wear a mask. Both aren't good for you in the slightest.

 

I've never experienced any problems in strength when it comes to sanding. Of course, if a piece looks more fragile, then just be cautious. The stuff used is high grade as I'm sure @chris watton will attest to. You certainly don't need to coat it in anything to strengthen it, hence no reason to mention it. 

 

Paranoid? 😆 Possibly!

MDF dust is especially nasty stuff if inhaled. In the past I tended to wear a mask if I had one, nowadays that is not a problem!