HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Mike,

 The etched frieze designs on Sphinx are a tad finer than that used on Pegasus, but I followed the same procedure with Pegasus, and was very happy with that result as well.

I followed the method described  in 7.26 of Vo 11 of Tffm.

On Sphinx I used Vallejo acrylics, but I think I used oils on Pegasus.

You could always try hand painting on a  frieze wide strip of suitable paper and see which you like best. It's always nice to do hand painted stuff but painting the brass to make it look like paintwork satisfied my artistic needs.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

[Chuck Seiler]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

I followed the method described  in 7.26 of Vo 11 of Tffm.

    Is information available on that method for those of us that don't own that fine book?

[Blue Ensign]

I’m sorry Chuck I don’t know the answer to your question, but it’s certainly available to those members of the Tffm club.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Twelve.

 

The Headworks.

This, together with the stern have a deal of visual impact and need to look good.

Some of this work has already been completed, the Head timbers, Upper and Lower Cheeks, and their associated Eking Rail and Hair Brackets.

I had not yet fitted the grating pattern in place as indicated much earlier in the build, but this is now the next step.

The Main Rail

There is no denying, Main Rails are tricky, but Chris has produced a version that replicates the elegant curve up to the head and is the first model I have made where I haven’t had to replace this element.

It is a three-section assembly which gives a combined thickness of 3mm at the head tapering to 1.8mm at the bow.

6617(2)

As a simplification the False rail has been made part of the overall laser cut part, but ideally it should be a little thinner than the Main rail to which it would have been bolted.

There is an outer section that beefs up the timberhead and stands proud of the rail. This creates the Stepdown which is a feature of the Main Rail. This benefits from a little light paring down to meet the lower level.

 

Fitting the Rails

The blurb gives a two-line instruction The rails can now be fitted to the bow as seen here and on plan.

If only it were that simple! Yes, it can be, but the fit will be less than desirable.

 

The forward tip of the rail fits nicely over the inner side of the Hair Bracket, but it seems to me that for the upper part of the Rail to sit correctly the back edge needs to be notched to fit over the Capping rails overhang and the Upper Hull rails.

I start by holding the forward end in place and mark on the inner end where the upright crosses the hull rails. An angled notch is cut in the upright from aft.

6621

None of this will be seen with the Main rail in place.

 

I also found it necessary to shape the grating pattern a little at the Fore end for a tension free fit.

Ideally it would be useful to pin the Fore end to the Hair bracket but it so fine that the smallest pin I have tended to split it.

I used pva to glue the rails in place knowing that should I need to remove them I could do it without damage.

 

The following are the macro shots taken purely to give myself pain, otherwise known as highlighting areas for improvement.🙄

6628

6626

I decided to add a second pair of easement seats fitted between the False Rail and the bow.

I suspect that these seats were far more popular than the exposed  pair, but maybe that's just an assumption by a 21st c. man.

6625

 

6624

6622

6635

 I have added the Saddle where the two rails meet at the bow between the Hair brackets.

6634

6632(2)

Still work to do on the bow but overall, I’m satisfied the way the Main rails turned out.

 

 

B.E.

On this St George’s Day.

 

 

[chris watton]

Nicely done!

[hollowneck]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Post One Hundred and Twelve.

 

The Headworks.

This, together with the stern have a deal of visual impact and need to look good.

Some of this work has already been completed, the Head timbers, Upper and Lower Cheeks, and their associated Eking Rail and Hair Brackets.

I had not yet fitted the grating pattern in place as indicated much earlier in the build, but this is now the next step.

The Main Rail

There is no denying, Main Rails are tricky, but Chris has produced a version that replicates the elegant curve up to the head and is the first model I have made where I haven’t had to replace this element.

It is a three-section assembly which gives a combined thickness of 3mm at the head tapering to 1.8mm at the bow.

6617(2)

As a simplification the False rail has been made part of the overall laser cut part, but ideally it should be a little thinner than the Main rail to which it would have been bolted.

There is an outer section that beefs up the timberhead and stands proud of the rail. This creates the Stepdown which is a feature of the Main Rail. This benefits from a little light paring down to meet the lower level.

 

Fitting the Rails

The blurb gives a two-line instruction The rails can now be fitted to the bow as seen here and on plan.

If only it were that simple! Yes, it can be, but the fit will be less than desirable.

 

The forward tip of the rail fits nicely over the inner side of the Hair Bracket, but it seems to me that for the upper part of the Rail to sit correctly the back edge needs to be notched to fit over the Capping rails overhang and the Upper Hull rails.

I start by holding the forward end in place and mark on the inner end where the upright crosses the hull rails. An angled notch is cut in the upright from aft.

6621

None of this will be seen with the Main rail in place.

 

I also found it necessary to shape the grating pattern a little at the Fore end for a tension free fit.

Ideally it would be useful to pin the Fore end to the Hair bracket but it so fine that the smallest pin I have tended to split it.

I used pva to glue the rails in place knowing that should I need to remove them I could do it without damage.

 

The following are the macro shots taken purely to give myself pain, otherwise known as highlighting areas for improvement.🙄

6628

6626

I decided to add a second pair of easement seats fitted between the False Rail and the bow.

I suspect that these seats were far more popular than the exposed  pair, but maybe that's just an assumption by a 21st c. man.

6625

 

6624

6622

6635

 I have added the Saddle where the two rails meet at the bow between the Hair brackets.

6634

6632(2)

Still work to do on the bow but overall, I’m satisfied the way the Main rails turned out.

 

 

B.E.

On this St George’s Day.

 

 

 

 

I especially like your continuity of color choices throughout your build. Great job on the ekeing rails, including the coloring. I punted on mine...

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Ron,  I just hope my blue colour mix lasts the distance. It should do there's not a lot of painting left to do.

I felt I had to put the extra effort into the Rails as there will be nothing to distract the eye, no Catfalls with large hook, anchors, or rigging.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[dunnock]

Thanks BE - I've been wondering how to tackle the cathead supports and eking rail transition on my Diana. Your solution looks excellent so I am going to attempt to follow your method.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you David,

 

It's worth a go but I would suggest you try  laminating the supporter from three separate strips which will be easier to create the quite sharp curve required. I see there are some good drawings of the Diana Headworks in the AotS book.

 

One advantage of lamination is that if three strips are used  a profile can be created along the face of the supporter.

The top of the supporter should be square with the underside of the Cathead which I didn't quite achieve, but given the size I  just about got away with it.

 

I await with interest to see the results of your  endeavours.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Thirteen

 

Adding the Figure.

The provided resin Figure is nicely detailed, but not one of the most attractive figures evident on ships of the 18^th c.

 

For those interested in such minutiae it is likely that the figurehead was carved by Cuthbert Mattingly, Figurehead carver at Portsmouth Royal Dockyard 1760 – 1778 at which point he brought his son William into the business.

 

 Historical evidence may suggest that Figures were painted in colours, the unrestored model of Tartar of 1734 shows evidence of having been painted in colours, and there are other examples into the early 19^thc. and beyond.

 

 I intend to leave the figure natural using only highlights and shadows to bring out the definition, it seems to suit the Navy Board style. This also accords with my natural inclination to avoid the garish.

 

A base coat of Ochre Brown is applied, followed by a wash of Burnt Umber.

Further highlighting (Yellow Ochre /Ivory mix) and shadowing(Dark Vermillion/ Burnt Umber mix) with a little darker wash for the crevices.

5957

I will be using Vallejo acrylics throughout.

6651

While I was  trial fitting the Figure I noticed that the forward part of the Lower cheek seemed a little short.

This looked unfinished to my eye.

6655

Generally where a full figure was involved the feet rested on or against the termination of the cheek moulding, as shown in the Marshall painting.

6646

I may be able to add a small piece of moulding to the rail.

6654

6652

6647

I quite like the look of the colour which varies given the light conditions but that is not to say that the urge to meddle won’t overcome me at some point.

6660(2)

6658

Still work left to do on the Headworks.

 

B.E.

25/04/22

 

[glbarlow]

You have a nice touch with the paint mixes. It’s all really coming together, we’ll done. 

[Chuck]

Nice work...your model is really coming together.

[hollowneck]

On 4/24/2022 at 2:35 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Thanks Ron,  I just hope my blue colour mix lasts the distance. It should do there's not a lot of painting left to do.

I felt I had to put the extra effort into the Rails as there will be nothing to distract the eye, no Catfalls with large hook, anchors, or rigging.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

Good point. I'll certainly have all the anchor bits n' buoys mounted, including the possibility of adding an anchor lining. I thought about this possible addition as I was rigging the deadeyes...I did add a centre-deck spanshackle, so the crutches make more sense. How do you plan to handle the masts? Stubs with broken wood?  Angled tops? A fellow artist/builder would like to know! Cheers!

[mtaylor]

This is definitely the gold standard for this model.   

[hollowneck]

14 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

This is definitely the gold standard for this model.   

Yep. A stunning model!

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers Guys, thank you very much.

 

@ Glenn – I’ve picked up tips from many on MSW and the beauty of acrylics is that you can experiment a lot within a very short time.

 

@ Chuck - your Winnie build is my constant reference for detail. I can’t replicate the top-notch standard of your work, but because of it Sphinx is much enhanced.

 

@ Ron  - I too will be adding the Billboard, bolster and lining, they appear on the Marshall painting.

I intend to add stump lower masts and Bowsprit, but they won’t be glued into place. The gammoning will probably be the only rigging on the model.

I am toying with the idea of leaving the masts as tall as the case cover will allow and maybe add the cheeks, front fish, and wooldings. I may also make up a full mast to include in the case as an example, but this all a long way ahead.

 

@ Mark – I don’t know about gold standard, but I do hope my efforts are of some use to other builders.

 

Regards,

B.E.

[dunnock]

Quote

It's worth a go but I would suggest you try  laminating the supporter from three separate strips which will be easier to create the quite sharp curve required. I see there are some good drawings of the Diana Headworks in the AotS book.

Thanks for the tip on lamination. I will try that and see how it works out.

 

I noticed too that you reduced the angle of the catheads to 20deg. I was thinking of doing the same because the 30deg shown iin AotS looks very steep and reducing the angle would make them sit better within the bulwarks.

 

Like everyone else, I'm overawed by the quality of your Sphinx and the details of the build and techniques in your log.

 

David

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

I didn't use the lamination method myself as I managed to wing it with the solid, but I suspect the Cathead supporter on Diana is a little more beefy that that of Sphinx.

Is the angle of Cathead on Diana based on a kit part? it doesn't look that steep on the AotS artwork and drawings., but you can always trial it with a piece of square stuff.

The steeper the angle  the further back along the Cathead the sheave slots will exit on the underside, in order to keep the run of the Catfalls vertical.

 

Thank you David for your  kind compliment, much appreciated.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Nipper]

9 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Cheers Guys, thank you very much.

 

@ Glenn – I’ve picked up tips from many on MSW and the beauty of acrylics is that you can experiment a lot within a very short time.

 

@ Chuck - your Winnie build is my constant reference for detail. I can’t replicate the top-notch standard of your work, but because of it Sphinx is much enhanced.

 

@ Ron  - I too will be adding the Billboard, bolster and lining, they appear on the Marshall painting.

I intend to add stump lower masts and Bowsprit, but they won’t be glued into place. The gammoning will probably be the only rigging on the model.

I am toying with the idea of leaving the masts as tall as the case cover will allow and maybe add the cheeks, front fish, and wooldings. I may also make up a full mast to include in the case as an example, but this all a long way ahead.

 

@ Mark – I don’t know about gold standard, but I do hope my efforts are of some use to other builders.

 

Regards,

B.E.

B.E. - re your last remark to Mark:  "I do hope my efforts are of some use to other builders".  Let me assure you that they definitely are! 

 

We all learn so much from the contributors on MSW, but I have to thank you for the extensive effort you put in.  When I found your build log on Alert last year, I learned so much, especially about the rigging and how to make it as realistic as possible, that the process and my finished product (Alert was my first build) was so much better.  The joy was in doing the research, prompted by your log, and then working out how to apply this to my model.

 

Nipper

 

[Blue Ensign]

Very kind of you to say so Nipper, much appreciated.

 

B.E.

[mtaylor]

On 4/26/2022 at 8:56 AM, Nipper said:

B.E. - re your last remark to Mark:  "I do hope my efforts are of some use to other builders".  Let me assure you that they definitely are! 

 

They very much are of use, I agree.  I'm using his method of cleaning up the cannon wheels.  Some other things, at this point, I probably don't dare try but maybe in the future.  

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Fourteen

 

Fore and aft along the hull

This is a time of dealing with many small details yet to be completed or re-visited.

Dressing the Head timbers.

These are the covering boards that face up the head timbers.

On kits it can be quite difficult the get these to look realistic with that nice concave shape to follow the head timbers.

When I fitted the Lower rails, I had to do some filler work to reduce the oversize slots into which they fitted.

5543

I can understand why Chris allowed a generous measure of leeway to slot the Lower rails into place. I recognise the technical difficulty of creating slots that would closely follow the rise of the rail up the head timbers, given the vagaries of individual constructions.

Even so I think the slots could be reduced a little in size from the upper ends of the head timbers.

6667

To maintain the curve, further filling is required post fitting. Looks horrible, but once sanded and repainted hopefully it will be worth the effort. A new set of mini sanding sticks were prepared.

6705(2)

I think that looks better and no unsightly gaps.

It took several goes to get a result that my non macro eye could accept.

6699(2)

I spot a little paint overspill on the upper cheek rail, strange the stuff you see on photos that bypass normal vision, what did we do before macro photos.

6701

A small piece of moulding has been added to join the forward extension of the lower cheek to the foot of the figure which I think gives continuity and accords with contemporary models.

6678

6681

With the Headworks completed I think Chris’s design has achieved that elegant 18th look, the best I have encountered in the models I have made.

 

Fettlin’ the Fenders

In their raw state the side fenders and Chess trees are a little chunky.

They benefit from a little further shaping, fining, and tapering towards the bottom, and a little rounding on their bottom ends.

Where they cross the Blue topsides and black strake they are ideally painted to match. On the Topsides the frieze work should be continued around and across.

6694

The area is small enough to tempt me to paint the continuation of the Frieze work.

6692

6691(2)

The w-o-p treatment hasn’t been applied at this point.

6668(2)

Working my way aft I will next tackle the side steps.

 

B.E.

28/04/22

 

 

[Chuck]

Lovely!!!

[KirbysLunchBox]

I really look forward to your updates. I am going to be sad when this is done. 

[Theodosius]

This foot-upgrade was well worth the effort!

[Gahm]

Beautifully done, B.E.! A pleasure to follow your build log!

 

Thomas 

[dunnock]

Quote

I didn't use the lamination method myself as I managed to wing it with the solid, but I suspect the Cathead supporter on Diana is a little more beefy that that of Sphinx.

Is the angle of Cathead on Diana based on a kit part? it doesn't look that steep on the AotS artwork and drawings., but you can always trial it with a piece of square stuff.

The steeper the angle  the further back along the Cathead the sheave slots will exit on the underside, in order to keep the run of the Catfalls vertical.

You are correct that the Diana support is beefier in that it is a scale 26mm long and 3mm thick. I measure the angle to be 30deg in AotS. The kit supplied support is set at 11deg and is about half the size of the AotS drawing. I have lengthened the sheaves on  the underside according with the drawings. Attempts at getting a sufficient bend in the eking rail are ongoing and I am working on the capping rail while I ponder further.

 

David 

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Guys for your comments and 'likes'

 

Post One Hundred and Fifteen

 

Looking at the side steps.

These are very fragile requiring a two part assembly from 0.6mm laser cut Pear. Awkward little beggars to hold, glue, and char clean.

The scale width of the steps look good at 2’ 9”  ( 13mm) but the depth of the treads looks a little shallow to my eye at 1.88mm (4½”) and the support I thought lacked substance.

Having assembled and messed about with these annoying little pieces I decided  to make my own.

6675

Using a sufficient length of Pear 2x2mm Square stock and a Micro shaper from Artesania Latina, a nicer looking profile can be produced (quickly), which are chopped into 13mm lengths, and finished with files (Slowly)

 

Generally the scraper profiles are too large for work at 1:64 scale but there is  a scotia profile at 2x2mm that suits the purpose.

Whichever version you use, these things are tricky to fit.

 

If only for aesthetic reasons they need to be evenly spaced, and parallel to each other as they rise up the side.

There is not an overly defined tumblehome on the hull  but there are some that require a slight bevel on the  back of the step to throw the tread level.

 

The top step position is defined by the decorative frieze which has a cut-out for it.

The next step is positioned on the moulded rail, level with the top. This raises the question whether to apply atop the rail or cut the rail to facilitate the step.

 

Chuck has recently discussed this subject and a visit to his Winnie log always pays dividends.

Chuck decided to cut the rail to allow placement of the step on the hull.

 

The problem with Sphinx, if the rail is to be cut, is that there is only 1mm of rail left each side of the step between the fender and port.

 I decided to place the step on the rail to judge how it looks but it does rather stand out and catches the eye. There is also a greater space between top and second than between second and the remaining six.

6712

In practice this means there is a 5mm space tread to tread between the top and second step, and four mm for the rest to keep them evenly spaced.

If 5mm is used the bottom (8^th) step would be placed a little too low down the wale.

 

I did a quick round robin of the current builds of Sphinx and there’s an eclectic mix of step positioning, some followed the plan but omitted the bottom step, others placed the second step above the rail. Only James followed the plan in his prototype build. (as he would)

For me the Adm plan shows eight steps so eight steps it will be.

6720

With the top step coloured and decorated the  distance difference between the top and second steps is not too obvious.

 

I begin the job by fixing the top two steps, then the bottom three ( on the Black Strake and wale)

I then mark the gap between the second and sixth tread top, this gives the remaining three steps a tread to tread distance of 4mm, pretty much in alignment with the position marks on the hull.

6716

6718

From this angle the difference  with the step atop the moulding is quite obvious. I suppose the step could have been thinned a little using the moulding as part of the step.

6715

I prefer the slightly beefier profile of the  scratched steps.

 

I decided to remove the moulding  and place the second step directly on the hull and infill a small piece of moulding to the sides.

This is the modified look.

6725

6726

6734

I much prefer the look with the moulding removed.

 

Whole hull shots to give the overall perspective.

6733

6738

 

6737

This has been a lot of words for a small but time consuming element of the build, but each part is important and contributes to the whole.

 

I think I will attend to the waist capping rails next.

 

B.E.

01/05/2022

 

[Rustyj]

On 5/1/2022 at 2:59 AM, Blue Ensign said:

I much prefer the look with the moulding removed.

 

On 5/1/2022 at 2:59 AM, Blue Ensign said:

This has been a lot of words for a small but time consuming element of the build, but each part is important and contributes to the whole.

I agree with both statements. Your patience and perseverance is making for a wonderful model.  

[druxey]

Much more like the contemporary models with the rail abutting the step!